Author Topic: 550 wiring  (Read 9178 times)

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Offline mono

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550 wiring
« on: May 09, 2012, 09:21:53 AM »
i'm sure this has been covered x1000, but (no search!) couldn't find anything.

I'll start this by saying that i am absolutely dumb when it comes to electrical stuff, so please don't laugh too hard.  this is kind of embarassing to ask about, but i don't know how to read the wiring diagram.

I looked at the colored wiring diagram -- look like most of the wires match up with the corresponding colored wires, M to F.  however - in the instance of the greens/blacks - does it matter who's hooked to who?  i am just having a tough time trying to figure out what goes to where in my rat's nest of headlight wires.

Offline Lostboy Steve

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Re: 550 wiring
« Reply #1 on: May 09, 2012, 09:31:36 AM »
Yeah its confusing I have everything working except for my blinkers. The fronts turn on but don't blink, and the rears both turn on at the same time but very very dull. I haven't ruled out a flasher yet, and a possible grounding problem with the rears.
1968 Honda Z50
1977 Honda CB550K
2018 Indian Scout

Offline Lostboy Steve

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Re: 550 wiring
« Reply #2 on: May 09, 2012, 09:33:02 AM »
Also a while back I asked for a few detailed pic's of other peoples headlight buckets but no one answered.
1968 Honda Z50
1977 Honda CB550K
2018 Indian Scout

bollingball

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Re: 550 wiring
« Reply #3 on: May 09, 2012, 09:47:59 AM »
mono Don't know if you have seen this but it gives a good general idea of what Honda was trying to do with the colors. The black wires are geerally switched power. Power starts out red at the battery goes through a sw. like the key or other sw. then turns black.
Big thanks to Jonesy

Reply #9 on: February 06, 2007, 05:19:06 am »More from Jonesy:

(I put this together after a few questions about the wiring in these bikes. Some suggested this be put in the FAQ. Hope this is helpful.)

Here’s a general wire guide for the 70’s Honda SOHC/4’s. Some of this may be different for the 650 (I’m mostly familiar with the 350, 400, 500/550 and 750) or bikes factory-equipped with electronic ignition. Consult your manual for specifics.

Main Color/Tracer Stripe Color- Description (Approximate Path, if Applicable)

All Circuits
Red- Constant Hot From Battery (Battery Terminal-Main Fuse-Key Switch)
Black- Switched Power Supply Buss (Throughout motorcycle)
Green- Ground (Throughout motorcycle)

Lighting
Brown- Tail Light Power (Main Switch-Tail Light)
Brown/White- Instrumentation Backlighting (Lighting Switch-Instruments)
Orange- Left Turn Signals (Turn Signal Switch-Front/Rear Signals)
Orange/White- Left Front Marker (Light Switch-Marker Lamp)
Light Blue- Right Turn Signals (Turn Signal Switch-Front/Rear Signals)
Light Blue/White- Right Front Marker (Light Switch-Marker Lamp)
Gray- Pulsing Power for Signals (Flasher Relay-Turn Signal Switch)
Blue- High Beam Power (Hi/Lo Switch-Headlamp/Indicator Lamp)
White- Low Beam Power (Hi/Lo Switch-Headlamp)
Brown/Red- Fused Headlamp Power (Fuse Box-Hi/Lo Switch)

Ignition
Black/White- Coil Power Supply (Cutoff Switch-Coils)
Yellow- Breaker Signal, Cylinders 2&3 (Right Points-2&3 Coil)
Blue- Breaker Signal, Cylinders 1&4 (Left Points-1&4 Coil)

Starting/Safety/Monitoring
Blue/Red- Oil Pressure Signal (Oil Pressure Switch-Indicator Lamp)
Red/Green- Neutral Switch Signal (Neutral Switch-Indicator Lamp-Safety Unit)
Green/Red- Clutch Switch (Safety Unit-Clutch Switch-Starter Button)
Green/White- Horn (Horn Button-Horn)
Yellow/Red- Solenoid Signal (Starter Button-Solenoid/Safety Unit)
Green/Yellow- Brake Light Power (Front Brake Switch/Rear Brake Switch-Brake Light)
Brown/Blue- Turn Signal Pickup (Turn Signal Beeper-Turn Signal Switch)

Charging (3-Phase External Excitation Systems)
Yellow- Stator Coil Output (Stator-Rectifier)
White- Field Coil Supply (Field Coil-Voltage Regulator)
Red/White- Positive Rectifier Output (Rectifier-Battery)

**NOTE- I pieced this together from referring to wiring diagrams I have. This is meant as a general guide and will vary between models/years. If anyone spots an error or omission, please post it and I will correct it. Thanks**

A few more thoughts that may help people:

Another learning I found useful in troubleshooting various circuits was knowing which sides of the circuits are impacted by switches, etc. Typically, most circuits on these bikes can be thought of as having 2 "sides"- a "hot" side (power from the main buss activated by the key switch), and a ground side. For example, the lighting on these bikes (head, tail, gauge, running and turn) is all controlled by a switch (or switches) on the hot side of the circuit, while the ground side of the circuit is always complete.

Basic Circuits controlled (switched) on the HOT side of the circuit:
-Headlight (Both Hi and Lo Beam)
-Tail Light
-Brake Light
-Turn Signals
-Marker Lamps (if equipped)
-Starter Motor (heavy-gage wiring switched by the solenoid)
(Note: while they don't break circuits under normal circumstances, the fuse(s) are all located on the hot sides of their respective circuits.)

Basic Circuits controlled on the GROUND side:
-Neutral Light
-Oil Pressure Light
-Starter Solenoid
-Horn
-Starter Safety Unit (As best I can tell, all sensors are on the ground side)

Special Case: Ignition
Under normal operation, the ignition coils are activated by the breaker points, which are on the ground side of the coil circuits, as the coils are fed constant battery power while the points interrupt the ground side. However, the emergency cutoff switch is located on the hot side of the circuit, coming into play by cutting the battery power to the coils.

And, That Age-Old Question...
...Does it matter which order I connect the yellow wires coming from the alternator to the rectifier? No. There is alternating current being carried by these wires and the diodes in the rectifier take care of sorting out the positive charges from the negative ones.

Offline Duanob

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Re: 550 wiring
« Reply #4 on: May 09, 2012, 09:53:09 AM »
I have aplace or two where the black wire is connected to green ground wires. I think black is grounding for ungrounded items on the bike such as things that are rubber mounted. So one way or the other black or green it will get back to negative terminal of the battery which is what you want.

Twisted here is a pic of my headlight bucket I hope it helps  ;D
"Just because you flush a boatload of money down the toilet, doesn't make the toilet worth more",  My Stepfather the Unknown Poet

1974 CB360T
1976 CB550K2 Resurrected
1976 CB550F2 Barn Find
1979 CX500 VG "HONDA-GUZZI"
2007 Moto Guzzi Breva 750ie
2015 BMW F700GS
Another 1976 CB550K Cafe?

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Offline Lostboy Steve

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Re: 550 wiring
« Reply #5 on: May 09, 2012, 10:04:43 AM »
Fair enough ; ) I figured pulled out a little. lol
1968 Honda Z50
1977 Honda CB550K
2018 Indian Scout

Offline Duanob

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Re: 550 wiring
« Reply #6 on: May 09, 2012, 10:17:00 AM »
I figured mine out pretty good with a year specific wiring diagram (1976). I t was a mess when I got it but everything works now. Color coding helps.
"Just because you flush a boatload of money down the toilet, doesn't make the toilet worth more",  My Stepfather the Unknown Poet

1974 CB360T
1976 CB550K2 Resurrected
1976 CB550F2 Barn Find
1979 CX500 VG "HONDA-GUZZI"
2007 Moto Guzzi Breva 750ie
2015 BMW F700GS
Another 1976 CB550K Cafe?

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Offline mono

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Re: 550 wiring
« Reply #7 on: May 09, 2012, 11:14:03 AM »
thanks guys - that write-up was really helpful.  i know electricity all flows in a "loop" (mostly), but this helped to clarify a lot.

looks like i was doing it right, just needed a little verification/reinforcement.

Offline TwoTired

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Re: 550 wiring
« Reply #8 on: May 09, 2012, 12:02:21 PM »
I have aplace or two where the black wire is connected to green ground wires. I think black is grounding for ungrounded items on the bike such as things that are rubber mounted. So one way or the other black or green it will get back to negative terminal of the battery which is what you want.
That is in no way correct for Honda factory wiring.  Could be that you have some aftermarket parts on the your bike, where "Industry Convention" assigned red to +12V and Black to GND (mostly lighting).  But, HONDA never produced an SOHC4 that used black coding as a battery Negative connection.  Connect black to green in Honda wiring and your fuses will fry when the key switch is turned on.

Perhaps there is some confusion with some parts that used all black wires for insulation, and instead use colored plastic bands near the connection point.  In 30 years, colored bands like these could have been lost, I suppose.
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline mono

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Re: 550 wiring
« Reply #9 on: May 09, 2012, 01:29:47 PM »
i'm pretty sure everything on my bike is factory-original.   and i do still have some colored bands on certain wires (mostly black/greens)

why you gotta scare me like this, TwoTired!?! haha :)  good words of warning, though.

Offline brianzenk

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Re: 550 wiring
« Reply #10 on: May 09, 2012, 02:05:18 PM »
I had a flasher problem with the same issues your talking about. I purchased a new flasher unit and it had the same problems ! The problem I discovered was in the wires just after they left the spade connectors. The wires are breaking inside the rubber housing, they OHM ok ok but there are not enough wires to carry the voltage and the signal lights do not work 100% of the time.  I discovered what the problem was by holding the flasher unit and moving the wires and flasher unit around and isolated the evil one. I installed new spade connectors with wires soldered back onto the original wires and that solved the problem with the blinkers.
'Oh #$%*!' is usually the moment when your plan parts ways with reality !

Offline Tews19

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Re: 550 wiring
« Reply #11 on: May 10, 2012, 05:27:22 AM »
There used to be a really easy PDF file on here with the 550's wiring diagram. SUper simple. Helped me get my birdds nest figured out in 5 mintues. I will search for it and post if I find it.
1969 Honda CB750... Basket case
1970 Honda CB750 survivor.

Offline mono

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Re: 550 wiring
« Reply #12 on: May 10, 2012, 08:29:11 AM »
Actually, I got everything sorted out on the front end last night.  I ended up undoing all the connections, untangling everything, then very meticulously locating and matching all the wires by color.  this time i also had the 2 inside bolts for the headlight housing mounted (2 green wires), and also the front brake wires got involved, making everything match up quite perfectly.  i realized that not having all the wires present caused me to have extra wires!  duh.

i also put the electrical panel components back on and started reconnecting everything in the back end - i had to leave it for the night, but it looks like the back-end wires are the ones that have the "tabs" of a different color on them that TwoTired i think was referring to.  I'll post some pics tonight after work.

In the meantime, any more pics or wiring guides is appreciated!  the more info i can get the better.  :) :)

I'll also have a question about the electrical panel later that will involve a pic.  i don't know what the little doodad is called, but i need wiring advice for it.

Offline Duanob

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Re: 550 wiring
« Reply #13 on: May 10, 2012, 11:08:34 AM »
I have aplace or two where the black wire is connected to green ground wires. I think black is grounding for ungrounded items on the bike such as things that are rubber mounted. So one way or the other black or green it will get back to negative terminal of the battery which is what you want.
That is in no way correct for Honda factory wiring.  Could be that you have some aftermarket parts on the your bike, where "Industry Convention" assigned red to +12V and Black to GND (mostly lighting).  But, HONDA never produced an SOHC4 that used black coding as a battery Negative connection.  Connect black to green in Honda wiring and your fuses will fry when the key switch is turned on.

Perhaps there is some confusion with some parts that used all black wires for insulation, and instead use colored plastic bands near the connection point.  In 30 years, colored bands like these could have been lost, I suppose.

You may be right TT about an added wire, all my tail light/ rear blinker green wires attach to one black gound wire from the harness with the multi plug. But how do you explain the black wires coming from the horn, winker buzzer, winker flasher, rear brake switch, ignition switch etc. They all have a black and no green for ground. One of them has to go to ground eventually.

mono good job. It takes a good wiring diagram and patience to go through everything but if everything in the bucket goes to it's corresponding color at least you know the wiring is right. After that if you have problems it's bad connections somewhere or bad wiring or bad components.
« Last Edit: May 10, 2012, 11:16:16 AM by Duanob »
"Just because you flush a boatload of money down the toilet, doesn't make the toilet worth more",  My Stepfather the Unknown Poet

1974 CB360T
1976 CB550K2 Resurrected
1976 CB550F2 Barn Find
1979 CX500 VG "HONDA-GUZZI"
2007 Moto Guzzi Breva 750ie
2015 BMW F700GS
Another 1976 CB550K Cafe?

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_- \_<,
(*) /' (*)

Offline mono

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Re: 550 wiring
« Reply #14 on: May 10, 2012, 11:36:07 AM »
thanks - it was a lot of work.  i cleaned every single contact point on the harness and put dielectric grease on all connections during re-assembly.  i also made sure all the connections were snug (I had to tighten up a few of the tubes that the bullets went in because they were loose).

I did notice black wires with green bands on the rear-end harness, and after what TT said about the grounding i'm kind of nervous about those.  I'll post a pic tonight of that also.

Offline TwoTired

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Re: 550 wiring
« Reply #15 on: May 10, 2012, 01:48:37 PM »
You may be right TT about an added wire, all my tail light/ rear blinker green wires attach to one black gound wire from the harness with the multi plug.
You must be mistaken about that.  An SOHC4 Honda wire harness will never have a black wire used within it as a Battery NEG connection.  Anything can be modified, of course.  And, peripheral devices can have non-Honda substitutes.
Take a look at Key switch connections in the wire diagram.   Red wire from battery POS gets bridged to the Black wire distribution in the harness. Green wires all have a connection to the batt NEG terminal, mostly via the frame's metal conduction path.

But how do you explain the black wires coming from the horn, winker buzzer, winker flasher, rear brake switch, ignition switch etc. They all have a black and no green for ground. One of them has to go to ground eventually.
Every power consumer on the bike must have two paths to the battery terminals via some method.

Functionally, it doesn't matter if you break the NEG path or the POS path it interrupt current flow in a circuit.  A circuit consists of a power source and a user or power consuming device, connected by two primary current pathways.

The horn always has 12V on the black wire (key switched on), the other horn terminal goes to the horn button and connects to the bars (frame ground/batt NEG) to make the horn sound.

The winker flasher routes power to the signals at intermittent intervals.  At rest, it powers the grey wire exiting out of it which is then distributed to the bulbs eventually downstream.  So, the black wire for that is at +12v when key switch is on.  When the turn switch is activated, current flows, and the flasher knows to turn the grey wire on and off intermittently.

The rear brake switch is open when at rest.  Activate the switch and it routes the waiting 12V on one of its terminals to the the other Green/yel which routes to the stop lamp element,  The base of the bulb completes the path to the Batt NEG via the designated Green wire.

The ignition switch (key switch) doesn't need any ground, as it is not supposed to consume power, only distribute it, from the Red wire to the Black wire.  It's the draw bridge by which electrons can reach between wire conduction pathways.

The kill switch (could be called the ignition switch, I suppose)  Receives switched power from the Key switch (black wire), and passes it on the the coils (Black/White).  There is no ground or Batt NEG connection needed for that function.  It's another draw bridge and is not supposed to draw power in the circuit.

I did notice black wires with green bands on the rear-end harness, and after what TT said about the grounding i'm kind of nervous about those. 

If the green bands look factory and you can trace them back to a bulb socket housing connection, then they rightfully connect to the bike's Green wire distribution.

Cheers,
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline mono

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Re: 550 wiring
« Reply #16 on: May 10, 2012, 01:57:11 PM »
wow TT thanks again for the details!  that makes a lot of things make sense about the way the electric works!  this stuff can be intimidating if you don't "get it".

If the green bands look factory and you can trace them back to a bulb socket housing connection, then they rightfully connect to the bike's Green wire distribution.

and yes, my bet is that they are factory. i'll be posting a pic in a while if you want to give it a look-see and tell me what you think  :D

Offline Hudge

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Re: 550 wiring
« Reply #17 on: May 04, 2018, 11:30:42 AM »
Hello all, I am also trying to figure out my wiring for my 75 Honda CB550.  I have everything working except my neutral and oil pressure light.  I know you indicated they are both ground.  My question is how do I wire it then? I connect the green/red wire to what? and the same for the blue/red for the oil??
« Last Edit: May 04, 2018, 11:36:38 AM by Hudge »

Offline Deltarider

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Re: 550 wiring
« Reply #18 on: May 04, 2018, 01:49:46 PM »
If yours is a K1, there's a wiring diagram on p. 152 of the Honda Shop Manual.

https://www.classiccycles.org/media//DIR_1653304/DIR_1653404/DIR_1653507/ecc6759db0a214d5ffff8823ffffe41e.pdf
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Offline Bankerdanny

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Re: 550 wiring
« Reply #19 on: May 04, 2018, 02:06:01 PM »
Hello all, I am also trying to figure out my wiring for my 75 Honda CB550.  I have everything working except my neutral and oil pressure light.  I know you indicated they are both ground.  My question is how do I wire it then? I connect the green/red wire to what? and the same for the blue/red for the oil??

Both the neutral and oil pressure lights work by having power running to the bulbs (black wires) and the colored wires being the grounds. When there is no oil pressure the switch is closed and the bulb grounds and lights up. Sufficient oil pressure opens the switch and disconnects the ground. The neutral light is the same. Putting the bike in neutral rotates a cam under the left side engine case and makes a connection that grounds the bulb so that it lights up.
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Current: '76 CB750F. Previous:  '75 CB550F, 2007 Yamaha Vino 125 Scooter, '75 Harley FXE Superglide, '77 GL1000, '77 CB550k, '68 Suzuki K10 80, '68 Yamaha YR2, '69 BMW R69S, '71 Honda SL175, '02 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, '89 Yamaha FJ1200

Offline Bodi

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Re: 550 wiring
« Reply #20 on: May 04, 2018, 07:14:35 PM »
All black wires in the harness are switched battery "+" power (key on). There are no exceptions unless the harness has been modified. Same with green, it is "ground" connected to battery "-" and the engine cases plus frame etc.
Things like signals and tail light assemblies are often replaced with aftermarket parts. These often use a black wire for ground and a red wire for power but OEM Honda parts have the harness wire colors so you just match them. The plastic ring colors are only on signal unit wires in my experience, but may be used elsewhere. So a blue wire from a front signal unit is the signal lamp filament and blue with a white ring is the marker lamp filament (guessed example). Several things have a component powered directly with the ground switched, this simplifies the switching and reduces the wire count.
Faced with a bucket rats nest, it is best to disconnect all the bullets, clean the wires to bring the colors back, identify the wires where possible and connect them by matching colors if they are OEM components. What is left over may be oddball aftermarket stuff, you need to figure out what wire does what and use the wiring diagram to deduce what harness wires to connect to.

Offline Hudge

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550 wiring
« Reply #21 on: May 04, 2018, 08:32:10 PM »
Thanks everyone for getting back to me regarding my question.  First let me say, I am using an after market speedo with a N light (green) and Oil light (red) in the housing.  I am also making this a kick start only and I've completely rewired the bike with a custom wiring harness.  I have everything working, except the neutral and oil light.  The neutral light indicator is green/black wire (-) and a green wire (+). As well as the oil pressure light indicator red/black (-) and red (+).  So my questions is this.  Where do I connect the green/red wire and the blue/red wire from the wiring diagram? I understand both are switches with internal ground.  I'm just not sure what to connect with what??

Offline Bankerdanny

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Re: 550 wiring
« Reply #22 on: May 04, 2018, 08:51:11 PM »
The green and red wires should be connected to a power source that turns on and off with the ignition. The neutral light  ground needs to be connected to the switch under the left side engine cover above the drive sprocket. The oil pressure ground needs to be connected to the switch that screws into the oil pump behind that same cover.
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Current: '76 CB750F. Previous:  '75 CB550F, 2007 Yamaha Vino 125 Scooter, '75 Harley FXE Superglide, '77 GL1000, '77 CB550k, '68 Suzuki K10 80, '68 Yamaha YR2, '69 BMW R69S, '71 Honda SL175, '02 Royal Enfield Bullet 500, '89 Yamaha FJ1200

Offline dave500

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Re: 550 wiring
« Reply #23 on: May 04, 2018, 08:53:56 PM »
don't be alarmed if you end up with a coupla spare green or black female wires,some are in a four way connector and perhaps only three slots used etc.

Offline Hudge

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Re: 550 wiring
« Reply #24 on: May 05, 2018, 11:27:04 AM »
Great, So I understand I hook the Red and Green (light indicators) to Black (+) (which I'll connect to the headlight Black.  And I understand the where the internal ground is connected.  However, I still have the two wires G/R and B/R wire coming out that needs to be connected to what, to the battery ground or the bike ground (G)?