Topic: Frustrated with setting valves - CB750

[Tugboat]

OK, so maybe (probably) I'm just dense, but.....

With the tappet covers off, I turn the crankshaft and watch the #1 valve open (go down) and close (come back up). Then I advance the crank until the 1-4 lines line up, right?




I can then set the #1 intake & exhaust valves.. but then supposedly you're supposed to be able to check #2 intake, #3 exhaust, right?

Here's the deal: it seems like #2 intake valve is open at this position.. note that #2 intake adjuster nut is below the threads while #1 intake adjuster nut is above that.



Am I missing something?

[Tugboat]

DUH!!! Just rechecked the manual and was reading it wrong.. #1 In & Ex, #2 Ex, #3 IN

[CrankyOldGuy]

The valve tappets should be adjusted using the "T" mark line, which is left of the "F" mark line.  The parallel double lines "II" are the advance timing marks.

Harry O.

[70CB750]

DUH!!! Just rechecked the manual and was reading it wrong.. #1 In & Ex, #2 Ex, #3 IN

Happened to me few times too.  The table in manual makes me think the top line is exhaust and the bottom line is intake - i.e. I take it more as a map of the engine and not as a table.

[david 750f]

+1 with CrankyOldGuy..

[Spanner 1]

Hi Tug.... when I stopped by earlier, I presumed you had the crank turned to the 'T' mark 1-4   .
Need to be @ T for valve lash adj.
See if I can clear it up..... Turn motor to T 1-4 mark then either no. 1 or no. 4 piston will be at the top and on it's compression stroke. If the no.1 valves are loose and can be moved slightly with your fingers then that is the cyl. to adjust. If no.1 valves are tight and no.4 are loose, then obviously adjust no.4.
Then rotate 360 deg to T mark 1-4 again and do the other cyl. ( 1 or 4 ).
Repeat process for 2-3 using the 2-3 'T' mark ..

[lucky]

Forget all that stuff.

Turn the crank to 1-4 mark See if one or 4 rocker arms are both moveable.
Adjust those on that cylinder.

Turn the crank one rotation do the other cylinder.
Same for 2 and 3.

Basically when a cylinder has both cam lobes facing downwards on 45º angles ,THAT cylinder is on the compression stroke and you can adjust its valves.

IF you have small LED flash light you can peek through the valve cap and see the cam lobes.

[Spanner 1]

Don't forget, reply #5 and reply #6 are exactly the same thing 

[bollingball]

Forget all that stuff.

Turn the crank to 1-4 mark See if one or 4 rocker arms are both moveable.
Adjust those on that cylinder.

Turn the crank one rotation do the other cylinder.
Same for 2 and 3.

Basically when a cylinder has both cam lobes facing downwards on 45º angles ,THAT cylinder is on the compression stroke and you can adjust its valves.

IF you have small LED flash light you can peek through the valve cap and see the cam lobes.

Lucky that sounds like what Spanner said. So which part do we forget? I don't understand
Ken

[lucky]

Forget all that stuff.

Turn the crank to 1-4 mark See if one or 4 rocker arms are both moveable.
Adjust those on that cylinder.

Turn the crank one rotation do the other cylinder.
Same for 2 and 3.

Basically when a cylinder has both cam lobes facing downwards on 45º angles ,THAT cylinder is on the compression stroke and you can adjust its valves.

IF you have small LED flash light you can peek through the valve cap and see the cam lobes.

Lucky that sounds like what Spanner said. So which part do we forget? I don't understand
Ken

Never mind I was just in a hurry and did not read everyone else's answer.
I am sure the OP will figure it out.
I mean't that instead of trying to use the method in the book about setting the valves, to just set them all on the compression stroke. Otherwise forget the books instructions in this case.

[shinyribs]

Seems overly complicated to me. Just watch whatever valve you want to adjust next,turn the crank until it closes,then turn the crank a smidge more to be sure-adjust-rinse and repeat.

A simple way for simple minds such as I.

[Nymotorcyclerepair]

Pull first plug out. Put finger over hole turn motor until u feel pressure this is combustion stroke 1piston top dead center. Line your marks,up on crank to "t" 1-4. Your first cylinder should be tdc and rocker Arms on intake and exhaust should be free.as well as 2intake and 3 exhaust. Set your clearance, rotate 360 back to t" 1.4 piston 4 should be tdc and valves for fouth cylinder should be free as well as 2exhaust and 3intake. Set cleaancez and yur done.

[Spanner 1]

Reply #5 = reply #6 = reply #11..... just sayin' 

[754]

 Pulling plug is a waste of time, just wiggle the rockers..

 If setting valves is a problem, dont tackle carbs, forks, swingarm, and dont even think of removing parts off the engine.. let alone going inside... Ok well maybe pulling 750 sprocket cover would be OK..

[Lamp]

I haven't read the thread but your a little off on your timing mark. Get the timing mark lined up with the . Between the 1 and 4 (1 . 4) then see if number 1 it 4 valves are loose and adjust them. Then roll the engine over 1 time which will turn the cam 1/2 turn and adjust the rest. There's only 1/1000 of an inch talorance so if you're off even a little you'll never get the bike started.

[Spanner 1]

Sorry Mr. Lamp but that's plain wrong !!.... there is only one correct mark to adjust your valve lash and that is exactly @ the 'T' mark ( Top Dead Center ) for either 1-4 or 2-3 AND the motor turned only in a clockwise direction to arrive at the mark ( to ensure cam chain slack is zero )..

[lucky]

Pulling plug is a waste of time, just wiggle the rockers..

 If setting valves is a problem, dont tackle carbs, forks, swingarm, and dont even think of removing parts off the engine.. let alone going inside... Ok well maybe pulling 750 sprocket cover would be OK..

I agree, just wiggle the rockers.

[shinyribs]

Yep,cant go wrong like that. Absolutely the simplest way possible. Its not a fluc capacitor,just a simple enginesickle   

[Spanner 1]

Ya can wiggle away guys, but you still need a reference point to adjust the lash at, which happens to be the 'T' mark.... what if your valves are set tight and don't wiggle?? Just keep turning the crank/cam until they loosen up and ya can wiggle 'em ?, is that what ya do?.....

[754]

 Re  #11, I did mean at the T mark.
Myself I dont think a few degrees off should matter, any cam I put a dial indicator to, has a lot of degrees of base circle..which is what you are at when setting valves..

[shinyribs]

Ya can wiggle away guys, but you still need a reference point to adjust the lash at, which happens to be the 'T' mark.... what if your valves are set tight and don't wiggle?? Just keep turning the crank/cam until they loosen up and ya can wiggle 'em ?, is that what ya do?.....

Wiggling is just a simplified way of putting it. Rotate the crank until a valve closes. Any valve you  chose to adjust at that particular time. You should able to tell when it closes as it rises to a point furthest away from the head. 99.99% of the time it'll wiggle. A closed valve is a GREAT ''reference point'' to indicate when a valve is closed. Nearly fool proof!

Of course,if you have plenty of time on your hands and enjoy laying beside the bike to hunt for the timing mark,thats a fine way to do it ,too. My old Martek ignition makes it nearly impossible to see that mark,and I've been adjusting valves this way for years on more than just bikes. A closed valve is always a closed valve. Regardless of stretched timing chains,mis-indexed cams...etc...a closed valve never lies.

Never said it was the only way,just a simpler way.

[Spanner 1]

A closed valve is GREAT.... but I'll take Honda's clearances @ TDC any day over any other quickie method.... what should the valve lash be at your 'whatever' point on the cam ??

[Spanner 1]

Do you fcuk with your timing 'by ear' too?
Geez, I for one don't want anything to do with your bike.... g'luck 

[754]

 I used to static time by eye, no light..worked well.. Dont think my eyes are as good now..
My brother calls that using the "EYEcrometer". He can set car timing quite well by ear..

[ChuckG750f1]

Well I've taken my sprocket cover off.  Is there a video I can watch to help me get it back on? 

[bollingball]

Well I've taken my sprocket cover off.  Is there a video I can watch to help me get it back on? 

Just wiggle it like the rockers Don't forget to have it at TDCC or it will never go back on. Allways put the center screw on first.

[shinyribs]

Do you fcuk with your timing 'by ear' too?
Geez, I for one don't want anything to do with your bike.... g'luck 

There are those who can work on things,then there are those who need step by step instructions to hold their hand. Then there are the sohc4 smart asses which drive me insane.God forbid you ever change your cam. Better yet,yeah,why dont you cram a big,huge whopper of a cam in there with totally different valve timing,set it 'by the book' and start it.When your #$%* bends all to hell think about the dumbass that mentioned visual inspection of the valves. Then again,if a f--king closed valve boggles your mind.....waste of my time....

[bjatwood]

Over at a Goldwing site I frequent. There is a "How To" section for all the different models of Wings.  And each "How To" section has pics with descriptions on how to do all sorts of maintenance D.I.Y. articles. Why can't we get something like that going on here. This would clear up alot of the ...I do it like this, he does it like that "conversations" What do you all think?

[754]

 To me its pretty basic, and covered in any Honda manual.. beyond simple getting it in the right place.. setting takes a bit of feel.
 Not slamming the OP, I think what got him off track was trying to do an extra rocker while setting a certain cylinder. With valve covers off, after 1st cylinder, its only 3 turns and you are done..

 Other stuff thats trickier, needs more help..

[Tugboat]

Yes, that's what was confusing.. but it turns out that I was just reading the manual wrong. Once I could picture it in my head then it all made sense. Thanks for the input everyone.

[MCRider]

Yes, that's what was confusing.. but it turns out that I was just reading the manual wrong. Once I could picture it in my head then it all made sense. Thanks for the input everyone.

Good. Done to the T, the protocol in the manual is plain and simple. Set the crank, set 4 valves. Set the crank one more time, adjust 4 valves. Done.

I'm surprised that one forum member who is a big proponent of manuals, chastises members who don't follow it, can in this case advise to ignore it. The valve setting protocol is at least one thing in the manual that is actually accurate. So many things are not.