Topic: Yolanda 2.0 new pretty carbs

[cheftuskey121]

Alright, new update. SHE RUNS! idle is either 2000 rpm or no idle at all. I have to get the video I took uploaded so you all can see.

I got my new petcock and popped in on my 4 day old POR-15 tank. looks GREAT. highly recommended as you can go back and see my tank looked like the sunken titanic. carbs reassembled after i got the needle jet and aerator in. i bench synched the carbs to roughly 1/8" in each slide. I also eyeballed them to see they were close. I don't have a carb sync tool right now, and I don't really know how the air screws work. I read everywhere 1 turn out. from what? all the way tight in? also I'm not sure where to set the big idle screw, right now I have it pretty much all the way out so its not affecting the carbs. also got my intake boots so I eventually (ie struggled) got the carbs on the then after some reading here and scratching my head I got the top of the airbox on. new boots and clamps, although parts of the airbox boots do not sit completely 100% flush with the carbs. hmm. got the bottom of the box on. put the tank on and struggled to get the cut and routed fuel lines on but did. went and got some gas this morning. came back and poured a little in the tank and put the petcock to reserve.

last night I got the battery postive cable in place and the new fusebox. I also added a proper bullet connector to that red wire with the white strip so I could attach it to the batter positive as well. been at oldmanhonda.com looking at the wiring diagram an got the headlight bucket sorted (my headlight and tail light work but none of the blinkers, or horn button works) I can jump the horn by touching some wires together, I thought I pissed myself when i accidentally figured that out...the horn does work but its not wired right. nothing on the left switch works even though its wired in, the only thing on the right switch that works i the start button, but the starter doesnt do anything. I can hear the solenoid click, and every now and again it sounds like the starter wants to turn but then it just whines. the engine stop switch does nothing (on in all three positions) so I don't know what I did wrong wiring that.

good news is I got my gauge faces and jewel lights and on my speedo got the light diffuser brackets jb welded back in there, and got my wiring harness for the tach. on the speedo I decided instead of using that solid red jewel for the brights to use the green one supplied and colored it in with a blue sharpie to make it blue. easier to see. im not going for museum piece here, and most "bright" indicators are blue lights anyway. I did get the tach put on when I started it so I could see what rpms I was at.

I had a heck of a time getting the throttle cables sorted and I'm pretty sure they still arent right. on these bikes does the throttle sleeve end up being in the middle of the whole throttle play? as in "can you pull the trottle back AND push it forward"? right now I can only pull the throttle back and it feels like it goes forever. my hands could never go WOT without grabbing forward a good amount first (awkward had angle). I cannot push the throttle forward at all. for the testing purpose it seemed fine because at "snap back" the carbs were closed (so it coould idle I assume). I also do not understand the choke. when the choke lever was in the horizontal position, the bike idled around 1500-2000, when I put it in the vertical(down) position it revved up. my understanding is that the choke being ON (up) the bike revs higher, but it did the opposite of what I was expecting.

the jetting is stock for a K1. 120 mains, 40 slow. the carbs are immaculate inside and out, everything is seated properly. no leaks in my brass floats and the heights set to 26mm. nothing leaks as of now either.

I was able to run the bike for 6 minutes total and nothing leaked out of the engine casing or carbs, so I am pretty happy with that. right now I'm not trying to make it run super well as long as I KNOW it will run. I want to strip down and repaint the frame and the build it back up with new stock parts where necessary and clean the ones that dont need replacing.

lastly, I bought some 341 pipes the other day while I was in ATL. they were super dirty and have medium rust on the headers but after scrubbing and soda blasting they actually look nice. few dings and dents but I want to ride em. there are two small holes on one of the pipes back in the muffler area. I think i can just jb weld them and be fine. I am missing the rubber connectors that connect both pipes together and a few other things too. here is my issue. I got the old straight pipes off, and I cannot for the life of me get the #1 and #2 pipe on, especially the #2 pipe. its like its getting tuck between the center stand and side stand and I cant get the header into the flange. it binds. my heart sank because I suddenly thought I could not even use these pipes. I read all over here that they exchange just fine, but clearly I am doing something wrong. the #3 and #4 pipes seem to go on fine once I get the right bolt etc.

for anyone still reading this thing please address some of my issues if you would kindly. pictures to come. I am TERRIBLE at taking pictures as I go!

[cheftuskey121]

I'll add that I got everything ready to go and hit the button and heard it spin for a second and then whine. so disappointed. ok I thought, it has a kickstart. so I kicked it probably 15 times to no avail. walked away, came back and kicked it more. nothing. wanted to crawl in a hole and die. decided to kick more and I heard the motor actually turn over once and sort of back fire. instant inspiration. kept kicking and eventually it just started for about 3 seconds. could not believe it. more kicking and then it actually started and got it to kind of idle. just thought I would share a little anecdote side note.

[Tews19]

Chef, the pipes are kinda tricky. I had the same issue with my K1.. I got a set of 341 too and could not for the life of me get the pipes on the night I tried.. Got all on minus 1 and 2.. Waited till the morning and it took all but 5 minutes. Sometimes it helps to walk away for a while to collect oneself. I put on from the inside out....

I read you got the tach/speedo wire harness, is this the one I sent you or are you still waiting?

[cheftuskey121]

that's what I'll do then. turns out according to the parts diagrams I am missing a lot of stuff. like the connector grommets and clamps, the passenger pegs, rubbers, bolts for the pipes to the frame, cotter pins, nuts, washers. $400 for the pipes and I have to spend it looks like $300 just to mount them the way they were intended. deep breaths. that was the tach harness I ordered from ebay Tews. I don't mind waiting, I am expecting other things to come in and they haven't so I am hoping USPS/UPS gets there stuff sorted out. I dont NEED the speedo done right now, but it sure would be nice to have something coompletely crossed off this never ending list.

[Jay Ace]

Dude you jumped both feet right in this project!
Keep it going man, can't wait to see where this goes.

[Garystratos201]

Remember grasshopper; patience is a virtue.........get in a hurry and you will F!^*~ up!!!...........Gary

[cheftuskey121]

alright got the stock pipes on. no clue what I did for pipe #2 but I eventually got it. I think before I was being too soft and fragile with them, had to use a little muscle to get it in. held the pipes to the frame with long screw drivers for testing so all the weight wasn't on the headers, worked for the purpose. starter still not working. took a while to get it started with the kick. eventually got it going and it idled at 1000 for abut 5 minutes even returning after blipping a little. seemed to give off a light smoke/haze from the bottom of the engine/headers. also some light smoke out of the exhaust. not a lot, but some. smelled of lots of burning gas. then after it warmed up it idled at 2000-2300 and would not come down. I let it idle there for another 5 minutes or so. don't know if its bad or good to let it just sit there and idle, but I have no other basis to go on, haha. don't really know if it sounds good or terrible but these stock pipes are much better to my ears than those chopper straight pipes that were on it. I have a new video too. really need to upload these.

still have no clue what i am doing, but I wanted to hear it run with the stock pipes before I started to disassemble. I have almost all of next week off so I will be cleaning the work area, getting ready to organize, and then start stripping. any words of wisdom? should I try to get it idling properly first? I've read that with 341s I need to rejet to 110 mains. is that why its idling high? the k1 comes stock with 120s and thats what I have. thanks in advance guys

[Stev-o]

Chef - you're doing fine, it's a learning process.

Adjust your idle to 1200-1500 after fully warmed up. Dont expect it to idle on it's own when cold.

Jump your starter relay with a large screwdriver to check your starter.

Main jets don't control your idle, pilot jets do. Could your idle be set too hign?

[cheftuskey121]

Chef - you're doing fine, it's a learning process.

Adjust your idle to 1200-1500 after fully warmed up. Dont expect it to idle on it's own when cold.

Jump your starter relay with a large screwdriver to check your starter.

Main jets don't control your idle, pilot jets do. Could your idle be set too hign?

ah of course. pilot jets, not mains. well I don't know how to set the idle at all. other than maybe I bench synched the carb slides too high to begin with, thus allowing more air through? isn't that how it works, more ir goes through when lifting the slides and more air and gas mix and the rpms go up. I have to sound like a 5 year old here. these are all new concepts.

on another note, turns out my battery was super discharged, so the tender is back on it. that might be (hopefully) why the starter wont go (not enough cranking power! hah) and explain why tonight I had to kick it over more than ever. I'll say again, new concepts. I am learning :-p I also uploaded the video to vimeo, here is the link to the first video with the old straight pipes

and here is the new video with the stock exhaust.

[Tews19]

Very cool and great progress.... Are you going to raise the rear to stock height? I see you have the lowering brackets still on. 

Also, with the stock pipes, looks like a great buy.. Are you missing the baffles in them? You said you do not have the rubber gasket and metal clamps for the pipes correct? I have a set of beat up 300's with the rubber grommets and metal clamps. If you want I can check to see if I have them still. If so pay the shipping and they are yours free.

Lastly, the headlight bucket wiring doesn't look bad..... They all look like that.

[cheftuskey121]

Very cool and great progress.... Are you going to raise the rear to stock height? I see you have the lowering brackets still on. 

Also, with the stock pipes, looks like a great buy.. Are you missing the baffles in them? You said you do not have the rubber gasket and metal clamps for the pipes correct? I have a set of beat up 300's with the rubber grommets and metal clamps. If you want I can check to see if I have them still. If so pay the shipping and they are yours free.

Lastly, the headlight bucket wiring doesn't look bad..... They all look like that.

Tews, I am undecided about the lowering brackets. right now the bike has a 16" rear wheel AND lowering brackets and when on the ground the tips of my feet barely touch the ground. cursed short legs. I really want to go back to stock but I also want to be comfortable. maybe even shorter shocks too. I dont know yet. I want it to be comfortable and reliable and VERY close to stock.

I am missing those rubber grommets ad clamps yes. I crudely taped the gaps together to try and help ( I don't know what I am trying to help really) and YES I am missing the baffles, I knew something was fishy about the ends haha. I only assume the baffles quiet it down? I don't know how anything is supposed to sound. the battery is out and charging so tomorrow I can test the electric start with a properly charged battery, I hope it starts right up. Monday should start my tear down

then tearing down (I expect to be in the torn down state for well over a month, what is the best way to store the tank and carbs, the tank has about 2 cups of gas in it and I know the carbs have gas in them, whats the proper way to get it all oout so it does not turn to varnish and I'm not back at square one. thanks!

[Tews19]

I had to order baffles on ebay for my 341s... paid the 5 bucks extra to get all the washers and bolts.  4-4 pipes can be a beautiful sound... I love my 341 and when I ran my 300 that were all rotted loved them as well....

I am short 5'9 but pretty much all torso... Legs are short and my arms are long.. I can touch the ground with a stock stance on the 750... May be tip toeing but i dont mind...What are your plans withthe chain gaurd? I have 3 k1 gaurds... Cracked but worthy to be used again...

Whn you take the tank off, drain all gas out... Spray it down with WD40 and let be.... drain carbs and they should be on their own.

[Stev-o]

Chef - not only will baffles make it quieter, it will increase back pressure which will help it run better.
Tews - you bought them on eBay, right?



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-NOS-CB750-Exhaust-Baffles-Diffuser-CB-750-Baffle-18311-341-900-/221170374740?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337ec81854&vxp=mtr

[Tews19]

Yea but the set for 104. Comes with washers and bolts.

[cheftuskey121]

ok, a proper update! this time with pictures! so here is my tach before



and here it is after with the new faces and jewels



here is the headlight coming on before I started it, I at least knew some power was going somewhere, the tail light lit up too and the brake switch works



got power to my tach lights. i didnt have the oil and neutral lights plugged in but when I did they functioned properly!



new speedo face and jewels. I do not like the solid red light for the beams. too dim. so I took the green one for neutral that was included in the kit from cb750faces and I colored it in and out with a blue sharpie. much better to my eyes, since brights indicators on cars are usually blue.



here is what one of the pipes looked like. they pretty much all looked like this just not as heavily caked as thing one.



here are the pipes after scrubbing with simple green and then soda blasting and rinsing/drying. much better. the headers still have rust, and one of them is pretty heavy. going to figure out if A: I really want to remove the rust and if so then B: how to do it safely. to further show how much I dont know, these pipes came with the flanges? only. no mufflers or hardware, no coupler grommets or rings, no mounting pins or hardware. so I need to get that when I build it back up. I don't even think the header gasket rings are in there. I also need to take the black/red paint off the heat shields and get that properly painted too.



pipes installed



other side



oem grips, throttle, and bars



points and condensers. I havent checked them at all. the bike ran, athough yesterday ad the day before it would not run. my battery drained almost immediately, and jumping CORRECTLY from an "engine off" car battery did not turn over the bike either with electric start or kicking. when I kick the bike and push the start button I hear the starter motor spinning though. I'm sure you can just pull out the starter and check it somehow??



headlight bucket from garystratos. thanks a bunch! one of the mounting holes for the light was chipped away on mine, so he sent me his for the cost of shipping. super nice! it has an on/off switch in it (I would assume for someone who doesnt have the hand control). my right hand control turns the headlight from normal to bright but when I put it in the off position the light stays on. I don't know if I need to properly clean out the switch itself or if the wiring in the bucket is that buggered (I had everything wired up right so I think) the kill switch also does NOT work right now. all of the wiring and electronics are getting replaced. I am not chasing 40 year old demons, and peace of mind is better to me than saving money.



I FINALLY got a tool box! I had been storing everything I own on the floor or a 3' x 3' table I bought. I got this at harbor freight today. was going to order it but shipping was $100! so I found the store here in savannah and they had it in stock. it was on sale for $160!!! 11 drawers. great amount of space. I had a coupon and a $100 gift card so I got a 3/3" torque wrench, a 14pc metric wrench set, and an SAE and metric allen wrench set. I walked out of HF only spending $119. talk about excited. got home and got the toolbox all set up and in no time the drawers were filling up. I still need things like a heat gun, more sockets, impact driver sockets, pliers, a timing light, carb sync....but all in due time, I have to tear this thing apart first.





thanks for reading!

[immortal]

Your doing a great job and I get the sense you are really enjoying the project too. Makes me want to start another one myself although old bikes are getting hard to find and way to expensive here in CA. 

I notice your gauge lights are really nice and bright, mine seemed way dimmer so I switched to led.

That's a great deal on that tool box too! keep it up!

[cheftuskey121]

thanks immortal. it was very frustrating/rewarding. I love learning new things in general so a crash course in something like this tickles my fancy. don't care about how much money gets spent, its not all happening at once, and it's a new life experience for me. update coming in just a few minutes! motor is out, back is aching

[cheftuskey121]

so last night I rang in the new year by spending some time in the garage stripping my bike down. good precursor to my goal for 2013. get this bike done! I took a bunch of pictures, 77 in fact, to help me remember how things go. I won't show them all here but i'll show some of them

here is the clutch cable and lever. cable is getting replaced and I have to replace the screw that holds the lever in. also the left hand control has a sheared off bolt in it that needs to be drilled out and replaced.



more of the front brake system (I dont know what this is called but its ALL nasty and needs to be cleaned/replaced)



taking the electronics out. the solenoid, rectifier, and regulator are getting replaced, also replacing points and coils with pamco and dual output coils. new wiring harness as well. going to find out how to test the starter motor and see if that needs to be replaced. I don't like fiddling with electronics over and over.



blinker relay. pretty sure this doesn't work. nasty. getting replaced.



electronics out!



getting clutch cable out. pulling in the clutch cable (which is a task in itself) did not release the clutch to neutral so I don't know if I really need to crack into the engine for that or not. I do NOT want to pull the engine after getting it all back in because the clutch doesn't work properly



chain off. man is that nasty. counted 99 links plus one master link



taking off that god awful chain guard



here is the oil that came out. smells exactly like when the bike was running. ha. dunno how bad this is, but it looks just terrible.



coils coming off. each part is getting organized into plastic bags and large plastic bins and I will tackle each bag and bin with either cleaning or replacement until all of it is done, then I will reassemble.



horn coming off



oil hoses, one is red and one is braided tan. I assume one delivers and one returns? making a note of the screws, I think the screw bodies are the same on all four but one of them is 8mm head and the other three are 10mm heads. would like the original/same screws across the board. piece of mind and a little anal retentive I know.



here is something odd on the right side of the engine by the #4 pipe. the vertical area does not have any screw in it although the other side by pipe #1 DOES have vertical screw, wondering if its just missing. doesnt seem like there should be random passageways



almost ready for engine removal



no cue what this is under the engine, but it was wrapped around the frame so I had to remove the screw and wire and move it so I could get the engine out. good thing I randomly saw this!



all the engine bolts out and labeled. had to tap two of them out with a rubber mallet and long thin screwdriver. hopefully they go in easier.



layed the bike down on its right side, and shimmied the engine out. my dad helped by holding the frame. it did not just fall out but once I got it in the right position it came out pretty easy. I somehow managed to hurt my lower back though shifting it around. pretty much calling it for the night. I got the engine out and that was my goal for the day. I set a goal to have it down to the frame by friday, and I think i'm doing ok.







one thing I noticed is on the backside of the oil tank there is a little nozzle, is that just a breather nozzle? there wasnt a tube hooked up to it and it apparently didnt leak oil.



that's all for now. I bought a swingarm from tews because mine is missing one tab for the chain guard. I cant weld and don't know anybody here who can so its just easier to get another K1 swingarm. I'll more than likely be selling mine along with some other stuff being replaced because I don't have room for extra parts and am not interested in having them floating around. I do have those chopper ish straight pipes, a cracked oil tank side cover, headlight bucket with a chip in one of the three light mounting holes, ape hanger bars, two rear winker mounts/grab bars, and a k4 seat with some rust on the seat pan but the seat is not bad. has the round latch and my frame has the hook latch. I'll be buying a new seat anyway

thanks for reading

[immortal]

That wire under the engine is your neutral sending switch ground wire. When you are in neutral that wire will ground causing your neutral light to light up. The hose from the oil tank is an overflow and connects to the spigot at the back of your engine so oil can flow back into your crankcase. Make sure you check the manual as mine is connected directly to it and works fine but I believe there may be a Tee that should be there so I would double check it.

Also just a thought. When I built my bike I regretted not putting in a frame kit that would enable me to access the top end without fighting to get the whole motor out. My engine was very pretty but 1400 miles later I blew out low end bearing. What a nightmare!  Thars when I realized I should of put a frame kit in. I ordered one and just got it installed.....Food for thought is all im saying! Insane not having access to your valves etc with the way the bike was designed!...You cant even get the valve cover off without removing the motor otherwise.

[cheftuskey121]

That wire under the engine is your neutral sending switch ground wire. When you are in neutral that wire will ground causing your neutral light to light up. The hose from the oil tank is an overflow and connects to the spigot at the back of your engine so oil can flow back into your crankcase. Make sure you check the manual as mine is connected directly to it and works fine but I believe there may be a Tee that should be there so I would double check it.

Also just a thought. When I built my bike I regretted not putting in a frame kit that would enable me to access the top end without fighting to get the whole motor out. My engine was very pretty but 1400 miles later I blew out low end bearing. What a nightmare!  Thars when I realized I should of put a frame kit in. I ordered one and just got it installed.....Food for thought is all im saying! Insane not having access to your valves etc with the way the bike was designed!...You cant even get the valve cover off without removing the motor otherwise.

upon checking, there is a small diameter hose on the lower part of the back engine, looks like that hooks up to the oil tank! thanks. forgive me for asking and not searching, but what exactly IS a frame kit? what does it do, how much and how to install? thanks

[immortal]

The frame kit is a kit that will bolt into your frame alowing you to simply unbolt it and have full access to remove your valve cover, valves, cylinder head, top end rebuild, it gives you full access to everything without having to remove the entire motor.  A lot of the guys here have them and members here highly recomend them.

Gordon, a member here designed "The Gordon Frame kit", here is a link on the forum http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=101832.0 

Search "Gordon Frame Kit"

Since then I think people have been knocking them off. He sells his for $185.00 but CycleX also sells their version for quite a bit less.  For me, I originally did not want to spend the money but after blowing a bearing I had to have access so I went for it, cut the two frame sections and removed the motor in sections on my own and it was real easy. Getting my rotten old motor out on my original junk bike  frame rolling it around is one thing. Getting my motor out of the frame of my finished shinney ne project without damage and struggle was another. There was no way I could of got the engine out again without a nightmare.

Like I said, just a thought, I just wished I would of done it in the first place then I could of powder coated over the kit in place. The investment will likely cost you $300.00, not cheap!

[cheftuskey121]

The frame kit is a kit that will bolt into your frame alowing you to simply unbolt it and have full access to remove your valve cover, valves, cylinder head, top end rebuild, it gives you full access to everything without having to remove the entire motor.  A lot of the guys here have them and members here highly recomend them.

Gordon, a member here designed "The Gordon Frame kit", here is a link on the forum http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=101832.0 

Search "Gordon Frame Kit"

Since then I think people have been knocking them off. He sells his for $185.00 but CycleX also sells their version for quite a bit less.  For me, I originally did not want to spend the money but after blowing a bearing I had to have access so I went for it, cut the two frame sections and removed the motor in sections on my own and it was real easy. Getting my rotten old motor out on my original junk bike  frame rolling it around is one thing. Getting my motor out of the frame of my finished shinney ne project without damage and struggle was another. There was no way I could of got the engine out again without a nightmare.

Like I said, just a thought, I just wished I would of done it in the first place then I could of powder coated over the kit in place. The investment will likely cost you $300.00, not cheap!

Oh wow, THATS what that is. so you just cut the frame in the right spots and then add in the kit so later you can take it apart and get to the motor. pretty cool actually. I assume it doesnt mess too much with the original strength of the frame. may be in my future. thanks

[cheftuskey121]

alright, yesterday I managed to get some work done. the rear wheel off. here is some of the caked on crap I've been dealing with. some purple power, a heavy scrub brush, and water helped





got the side stand off



took off the lowering blocks. the chain tensioners on both sides are actually locked up. the screws in them are slightly bent, they are not going anywhere. easy enough to replace from honda I suppose.





then the brake arm



cracked loose the axel bolt, that cotter pin has to go lol



got the back wheel off, then the shocks off. they don't look super great. I think I want shorter shocks, every inch helps when you're 5'6"





got the swingarm off, took a bit of pb blaster and getting medieval on the swingarm bolt to get it out. I also don't know if the collar is ever coming out. I already bought a K1 swingarm from tews, I don't know if his is coming with a collar etc, but I'm pretty positive the new swingarm is going straight to Hondaman for a proper rebuild.





I finally bought myself a dremel. I've been wanting one for a long time! I figure I can use this to try an get the engine mount flanges off that hondaman recommends removing before reinstalling the engine. I'm sure there are countless other uses for the dremel I'm not aware of. this unit is variable from 5k to 35k. seems solid. I like.



So now today I am going to try and get the front wheel off. I borrowed a motorcycle jack from a friend but its useless because like an idiot I forgot simple physics. if the rear wheel and engine are gone, the jack just lifts up the rear and the front wheel stays planted. so much for making it "easier" to get the front off. I'm sure I will figure it out though. live and learn, this whole rebuild is sink or swim, and I feel like I'm keeping my head above so far.

I'd like to get it to bare frame today, and then start cleaning it up to see how I want to refinish. leaning away from powder coating mostly due to price but also because I love DIY.

Also, I bought the matching K0 tach light harness (to my K0 speedo harness from same seller) so that should be here soon enough and I can cross the gauges off my infinite list!!! I'm pretty sure the harness I bought from tews is stuck in limbo somewhere because that, along with 3 other things I've ordered this christmas aren't here. either lost or stolen, but tews is a great guy and refunded my money. I told him if it does show up he'll get repaid!

thanks for reading

[Garystratos201]

Nice work. Tews is a good guy, the headlite bucket I sent you came from him but it turned out I didnt need it it. The swing arm is not that hard to rebuild I did mine myself. The only Thing I sent to the machine shop was to press in the bronze bushings. Cost me about ten bucks if I remember right. There is a place in Madison Ga that soda blasted my frame and other parts for $150.00. Probably a couple of hours away from you. Straight shot on I 20. Let me know if you meed info.............Gary

[cheftuskey121]

hmm, I'll keep that in mind about the swingarm. I do have the ability to do my own soda blasting though. not fast, but this is a slow project anyway