Or you can just not change anything to the suspension...
One the whole, these bikes are undersprung, underdamped, and have really sluggish geometries. So, I wouldn't recommended that approach unless the bike's configured "just for looks" and not intended to be ridden at speed.
After doing the rake/trail calculations (resulting in my using shorter fork tubes and longer shocks to get the desired geometry to about 26 deg of rake and 100mm trail) , I spent weeks tuning fork spring-rates, oil-weight and volume, and cartridge emulator preload. The Works shocks are custom valved for each application when you order them - and performed well right out of the box (save adjusting spring preload for proper negative-travel or "sag").
And then there are the absolute essentials like bronze swingarm bushings, tapered steering head bearings...
