Author Topic: Replacement Regulator/Rectifier CHEAP (Read 192160 times)

Pinhead · « **Reply #275 on:** February 10, 2011, 09:13:10 PM »

Quote from: Slams77 on February 10, 2011, 08:48:31 PM

Here is the VR730 as it is installed in my CB400F...

It looks like you got a regulator that uses different wiring than mine (IASF vs AFSI).

I see, however, that the letters still correspond to the same component wires as mine (I=Ignition, A=Batt+, F=Field, Case Ground).

Do you remember what year the regulator was specifically ordered for and what brand it is?

Slams77 · « **Reply #276 on:** February 10, 2011, 10:34:00 PM »

Quote from: Pinhead on February 10, 2011, 09:13:10 PM

Quote from: Slams77 on February 10, 2011, 08:48:31 PM
Here is the VR730 as it is installed in my CB400F...

It looks like you got a regulator that uses different wiring than mine (IASF vs AFSI).

I see, however, that the letters still correspond to the same component wires as mine (I=Ignition, A=Batt+, F=Field, Case Ground).

Do you remember what year the regulator was specifically ordered for and what brand it is?

Hey Pinhead,

I purchased it at Autozone and when I asked the clerk if he knew what years it fit, he didn't know.

I just found this link with what looks to be the same regulator. . http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220591371921&viewitem

Pinhead · « **Reply #277 on:** February 10, 2011, 11:45:36 PM »

Quote from: Slams77 on February 10, 2011, 10:34:00 PM

Quote from: Pinhead on February 10, 2011, 09:13:10 PM
Quote from: Slams77 on February 10, 2011, 08:48:31 PM
Here is the VR730 as it is installed in my CB400F...

It looks like you got a regulator that uses different wiring than mine (IASF vs AFSI).

I see, however, that the letters still correspond to the same component wires as mine (I=Ignition, A=Batt+, F=Field, Case Ground).

Do you remember what year the regulator was specifically ordered for and what brand it is?

Hey Pinhead,

I purchased it at Autozone and when I asked the clerk if he knew what years it fit, he didn't know.

I just found this link with what looks to be the same regulator. . http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220591371921&viewitem

Very interesting. The description states that it is used on (1992-90) Ford, Lincoln, Mercury vehicles. I bought my regulator for a '76 Ford F-150. I suspect this could be what is causing the discrepancy.

Slams77 · « **Reply #278 on:** February 11, 2011, 12:34:27 AM »

Quote from: Pinhead on February 10, 2011, 11:45:36 PM

I just sent the seller an email inquiring about the unit on ebay.

Quote from: Slams77 on February 10, 2011, 10:34:00 PM
Quote from: Pinhead on February 10, 2011, 09:13:10 PM
Quote from: Slams77 on February 10, 2011, 08:48:31 PM
Here is the VR730 as it is installed in my CB400F...

It looks like you got a regulator that uses different wiring than mine (IASF vs AFSI).

I see, however, that the letters still correspond to the same component wires as mine (I=Ignition, A=Batt+, F=Field, Case Ground).

Do you remember what year the regulator was specifically ordered for and what brand it is?

I just sent the seller an email inquiring about the unit on ebay.

Hey Pinhead,

I purchased it at Autozone and when I asked the clerk if he knew what years it fit, he didn't know.

I just found this link with what looks to be the same regulator. . http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220591371921&viewitem

Very interesting. The description states that it is used on (1992-90) Ford, Lincoln, Mercury vehicles. I bought my regulator for a '76 Ford F-150. I suspect this could be what is causing the discrepancy.

7145cb650 · « **Reply #279 on:** February 11, 2011, 05:50:13 AM »

The regulator that I purchased was for a 1974 Ford F150.

mrrch · « **Reply #280 on:** February 11, 2011, 05:53:35 AM »

I got mine thru Napa, I'll dig up the part number. I just searched VR730 on their website and went and picked up that part number.

Slams77 · « **Reply #281 on:** February 11, 2011, 09:36:45 AM »

Did a somewhat quick research on Autozone’s site last night and this is what I found. Not sure if there is a difference in the way these are wired though. maybe someone can ask to see both units when at autozone?

VR730 Fits 1965 – 1978 Ford Truck F150
VR749 Fits 1979 – 1992 Ford Truck F150

I’m still waiting on a response from the ebay member.

I Zombie · « **Reply #282 on:** February 12, 2011, 01:47:27 PM »

Quote from: mrrch on February 11, 2011, 05:53:35 AM

I got mine thru Napa, I'll dig up the part number. I just searched VR730 on their website and went and picked up that part number.

NAPA # VR440SB

OLDHEAD · « **Reply #283 on:** April 14, 2011, 10:59:57 PM »

i got an 81 cb650 the black wire from the a/c leave it dead ground it or what?

leak · « **Reply #284 on:** May 02, 2011, 10:22:18 AM »

Quote from: Slams77 on February 10, 2011, 08:48:31 PM

Worked great for my CB750 with a BWD (Borg Warner) R400, $12 on ebay (j2toolsandsupply).
35A 3-phase bridge rectifier $8 (windy_nation).

OLDHEAD · « **Reply #285 on:** May 06, 2011, 07:31:26 AM »

thats how i wired mine but iam not reading any V at black (ignition black (I))

Canada · « **Reply #286 on:** May 09, 2011, 12:32:28 AM »

OK... thought I was going to be able to figure out this little modification on my own but I have run myself into a corner and I am not sure if its my rectifier set up or the regulator.

I seem to have the same regulator as Queeg and it smokes if hooked up in any other configuration. The case of the regulator is well grounded directly to the battery.

I have two KBPC3506 bridge rectifiers that I have wired up just as pictured in Pinheads diagrams. I have the positive connectors wired directly to the battery and to the regulator and the two negatives grounded. I also have the cases of the rectifiers mounted directly to a painted steel pan under my seat and a heat sink mounted directly under this steel pan to dissipate the heat.

I just installed a brand new AGM battery that I think I ended up buggering as I have acquired a voltage drain in this set up completely drained the battery overnight. I am trying to recharge it now but that's a whole different topic. If I hook a different battery up to the battery cables and do not connect the positive wires that come from the regulator and rectifier I have no voltage drain. As soon as I make this connection I instantly drop a few tenths of a volt across the battery and can slowly see the voltage drop at rate of about .01 per 30 seconds. Any idea what could be causing this drain? I am not an electrical guru and am completely stumped. What's my next step?

Pinhead · « **Reply #287 on:** May 09, 2011, 05:33:06 AM »

You need to figure if it's the regulator or the rectifier that's draininf the battery by completely removing one from the bike and leaving the other connected. I'd lean towards the rectifier being the issue, since it's the more "unknown" of the two.

Canada · « **Reply #288 on:** May 09, 2011, 08:26:18 AM »

Thanks Pinhead (great thread by the way! I have learned so much about the charging system as a result)

I thought about that last night after my head hit the pillow. I just isolated each and its definitely the regulator. I have smoked it a few times tying to sort out the proper wiring configuration but if I fire up the bike it seems to charge just fine. Is it possible that some of the internal circuitry has become grounded and causing this drain? Off to the store to get a new regulator! or maybe I'll use the old one for now..

scottly · « **Reply #289 on:** May 09, 2011, 07:29:38 PM »

Ford regulator wiring:
I- no connection (I suspect this is where some mistakes have been made)
A- connect to battery plus (battery reference)
S- connect the black wire from the stock harness here (switched on with ign)
F- connect the white wire from the stock harness here (alt field)
regulator case- connect the green wire from the stock harness (ground reference)

Pinhead · « **Reply #290 on:** May 09, 2011, 07:40:36 PM »

Quote from: scottly on May 09, 2011, 07:29:38 PM

Ford regulator wiring:
I- no connection (I suspect this is where some mistakes have been made)
A- connect to battery plus (battery reference)
S- connect the black wire from the stock harness here (switched on with ign)
F- connect the white wire from the stock harness here (alt field)
regulator case- connect the green wire from the stock harness (ground reference)

Compared to the way I've got mine wired, you've got the I and S leads switched. Does your regulator work when wired this way?

scottly · « **Reply #291 on:** May 09, 2011, 08:32:29 PM »

The Ford reg "I" terminal is used with an "Indicator", or "Idiot" light, as I recall. I'll double-check the schematics tomorrow...
What is the max voltage you get? Should be over 13.8 at the least...

Pinhead · « **Reply #292 on:** May 10, 2011, 04:50:07 PM »

IIRC, It stays right at 13.3v... Haven't checked in a long time, though. I'll check tonight when I get home.

scottly · « **Reply #293 on:** May 10, 2011, 07:38:39 PM »

Double, actually triple-checked the Ford regulator wiring diagrams; the "I" terminal is ONLY used with an indicator light.
(PS, thanks for this thread!!

wohali · « **Reply #294 on:** June 15, 2011, 09:19:36 PM »

Scottly, in Canada I can only get my hands on this NAPA VR440SB regulator. The store seems to not have a data sheet for it, expecting it's going to be plugged into the harness you've already got...

Your wiring recommendation goes against the OP's wiring recommendation (Indicator vs. Ignition). Can you post a scan of the wiring diagram you have, or perhaps a reference for the part itself?

scottly · « **Reply #295 on:** June 15, 2011, 09:55:11 PM »

I used the VR730 part from Auto-zone, because I learned on this thread that the case could be opened up and the circuit board extracted, vs some that have the case full of plastic potting. (One of my goals was to reduce weight)
When I hooked it up on the bench according to the OP's method (after first testing it with the method I have suggested) I saw wisps of smoke within seconds from the surface-mount resistors in series with the "I" terminal. When the reg detects a non-charging condition, it applies ground to this terminal in order to light the indicator. The resistance of the lamp limits the current to as safe level. No lamp=smoke.
You MUST ground the reg case (this should be the first connection made), and you have to add a wire from the A term straight to Batt+ (this wire actually carries the current to the field, which reduces the current though the ignition switch)
Go by the labels on the reg, not the order, as Ford used 2 different plugs.

skamagedon · « **Reply #296 on:** June 15, 2011, 10:31:05 PM »

ive seen 14.5-15.7 at 6000 rpm on the 550 with the same reg

scottly · « **Reply #297 on:** June 15, 2011, 10:51:04 PM »

Interesting.. I noticed during my bench-testing that the reg would not go any lower than about 3.5V to the field. Also, when I increased the supply voltage beyond 15V, a diode (zener?) started getting warm. On the bike (750) I've seen up to 14.6 at about 6000, with the tail light as the only load additional to the ignition. (my tail light is wired to be on with the ign)

scottly · « **Reply #298 on:** June 19, 2011, 04:17:03 PM »

Here is a scan of the wiring diagram I referred to:

Pinhead · « **Reply #299 on:** June 19, 2011, 05:35:28 PM »

Hmm... And here's a contradiction...

http://www.junkyardgenius.com/charging/ford02.html

And it seems that every diagram that I look at shows the reg wired differently. This is getting confusing.

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Author Topic: Replacement Regulator/Rectifier CHEAP (Read 192160 times)

leak