Topic: Replacement Regulator/Rectifier CHEAP

[TwoTired]

I'm still amazed that the stock regulator worked so well on millions of bikes for more than 30 years.
I guess it takes a lot to prove a technology/design to some people.

Then again, there are a lot of forum members intent on "fixing" things that aren't broken.
 

[nilsey]

I'm still amazed that the stock regulator worked so well on millions of bikes for more than 30 years.
I guess it takes a lot to prove a technology/design to some people.

Then again, there are a lot of forum members intent on "fixing" things that aren't broken.
 

actually my bike is not charging, so it is in fact broken. the rectifier is faulty so i am going to replace that first, just gathering info here. if i can save a few watts  here and there doing something simple and cheap, i don't feel that's too much of an offense against the japanese engineers of the 60s and 70s -- who knows, they may even approve!

[FrankenFrankenstuff]

I just want a simple. Buy this, buy this, and connect his way. How about an idiot proof package deal? I just went through 11 pages of my brilliant SOHC brothers ideas and opinions.....but feel like all I gained was an old Ford regulator. Sombody post a dead solid recipe.

[dave500]

ive removed the instrument light globes,for a step in the right direction.

[Pinhead]

I just want a simple. Buy this, buy this, and connect his way. How about an idiot proof package deal? I just went through 11 pages of my brilliant SOHC brothers ideas and opinions.....but feel like all I gained was an old Ford regulator. Sombody post a dead solid recipe.

If I were able to source connectors that would plug into the stock wiring harness I would put together a "plug and play" kit...

[GammaFlat]

I just want a simple. Buy this, buy this, and connect his way. How about an idiot proof package deal? I just went through 11 pages of my brilliant SOHC brothers ideas and opinions.....but feel like all I gained was an old Ford regulator. Sombody post a dead solid recipe.

If I were able to source connectors that would plug into the stock wiring harness I would put together a "plug and play" kit...

If you're interested, there's a guy who sells all the connectors and tools to rebuild a Honda wiring harness.  He's at http://www.vintageconnections.com/.  In the first picture is my crimper.  The second pictures shows my box of connectors and the tool to disassemble shell connectors.  All this stuff is from Del at Vintage Connections. 

[FrankenFrankenstuff]

Yo Gamma Gamma, what about those reg/rec single piece units from the oregon guy? Has anyone tried to use a CB550 nighthawk reg/rec unit on the older SOHC 550?

[GammaFlat]

That guy (Oregon Motorcycles) also sells connectors like Del from Vintage Connections.  I've read about a lot of folks that have been happy with that combination but let me point a few things out and maybe I can get a little help from some of our better versed folks.  

Some thoughts on the Oregon unit:

• Some folks on this forum have used them and love them.
• The price is about 120 bucks
• Combo unit - both regulator and rectifier combined
• I hear the guy at Oregon is great to work with and folks here report good post sales support
• I thought I had read that the Oregon unit is a shunt regulator and has the alternator running at full tilt all the time putting the windings in your alternator (stator) under higher stress (heat) than the factory unit
• Easy!!! plug it in, screw it down and "play"

What do you need to mount it to?  Do you have the factory battery box and "electrical panel"?  

I think a solid state regulator is easily cooked if not connected properly.  (don't ask ... I've burned up parts "on the bench").  I understand you want plug and play and for that reason, you may want to do the Oregon unit.  I feel like there are at least 2 other good options.  #1 - Try to use your factory parts - especially the regulator.  If you need to test them, you'll get plenty of help here.  #2 - Roll your own.  Whether you use a Ford regulator or the factory regulator, it's easy and cheap ($20 complete with new connectors) to build a more robust rectifier than the factory unit.  

You (FrankenStuff) and I have other things to chat about.  Let's put this on the agenda

John

[FrankenFrankenstuff]

http://cgi.ebay.com/HONDA-CB250-CB400-4-CB550-CB750-WIRING-LOOM-REPAIR-KIT-/360158426959?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item53db1d774f
I found this as well. A kit for repairing your harness.

OK, So I am sold. Basically I am going to do just what you have said. I read through this entire thread and all that I neede was in Pinheads first post with the description of his discovery. THANKS TO GAMMA AND PINHEAD!!!

[nilsey]

i just got this from digikey.com: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=36MT80-ND

installed yesterday and the charging system seems to be working fine now - up to 14.5V @ 5K rpm. everything's bright, flashers are flashing at normal speed etc.

to install it i just snipped the ends of the wires to th eold regulator and put some crimp-on female quick connector from radio shack (2 bucks).

i guess i'll see how that goes, doesn't seem like anything is wrong with the stock voltage regulator, so i'll leave it for now.

[TwoTired]

The crimp on connectors are ok short term.  But if you want the connections to last, the terminal connections should be soldered and covered with heat shrink or liquid vinyl.

Cheers,

[nilsey]

The crimp on connectors are ok short term.  But if you want the connections to last, the terminal connections should be soldered and covered with heat shrink or liquid vinyl.

Absolutely, thanks for teh reminder!

[GammaFlat]

i just got this from digikey.com: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=36MT80-ND
installed yesterday and the charging system seems to be working fine now - up to 14.5V @ 5K rpm. everything's bright, flashers are flashing at normal speed etc.
to install it i just snipped the ends of the wires to th eold regulator and put some crimp-on female quick connector from radio shack (2 bucks).
i guess i'll see how that goes, doesn't seem like anything is wrong with the stock voltage regulator, so i'll leave it for now.

I love the concept.  Here's one on ebay similar to yours for $8 plus $2 shipping:
http://cgi.ebay.com/35-AMP-3-THREE-PHASE-BRIDGE-RECTIFIER-WIND-/400162766963?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d2b8f4073

Be sure to use a good heat sink  

[FrankenFrankenstuff]

I just bought one. ebay got its hooks in me.

[Elan]

not saying its worth the work, but its possible... I cut the regulator out of the big ford housing with some tin snips...

[Alan F.]

nice job.

[GammaFlat]

not saying its worth the work, but its possible... I cut the regulator out of the big ford housing with some tin snips...

There's a resistor on that Ford regulator that gets real hot.  I believe the metal that it's mounted to acts as a heat sync.  The good news is that the Ford regulator is only 13 bucks so if it gets "cooked", it's not expensive to replace and if you need to do it again, you might try to leave more metal near the big transistor (if heat becomes a problem). 

That's a neat little solution.  Does anyone have any ideas how one might get the cover of the Honda regulator shining all purty again? 

[7145cb650]

I used the ford F150 Regulator. I made an aluminum mount to be usedas heat sink. I bought two cheap rectifiers from Radio Shack and Mounted them below the Spark units. I have had them in use for 6 months with no problems. The bike charges in the high 13's.

[stueveone]

Ok, I've tried reading this a half dozen times. I'm still not sure about the wiring for the VR730. I hooked mine up according to the letters on the terminal block ie: I - switched ignition, A - Positive to battery, S - not used, and F - Field coil.

The bike seemed to charge around 14.3V at around 5000rpm. I was re-reading here just to double check, and Pinhead's wiring logic is different?

 So, then, Pinhead, if you are looking at the regulator with the terminal LETTERS facing you, mine reads I A S F . How should the wires be connected from left to right? 1 - battery, 2 - field, 3 - not used, 4 - switched ignition???

[mrrch]

I hooked up my first one as per Pinhead and I ended up with smoke. I connected the second one as per the markings on the regulator and everything works properly.

[7145cb650]

Definitely go by what the regulator says because i had the same problem and smoked one. It all worked fine as you can see in the pictures above after i followed what was on the regulator.

[Pinhead]

Hmm there seems to be some disparity between what the regulator says between either different brands or different model years... Though I would think if that were the case they would have different names (i.e. VR730 vs VR740 vs VR750, etc).

It's hard for me to say the exact differences, though, without actually seeing the connections on the regs themselves, as well as knowing how they were hooked up and fried.

Could you guys with smoked regs post pics of your regulators with the letters showing and also post how you wired them the first time? I'd really like to get to the bottom of this so people don't have  to buy two of them to get their bikes working.

[mrrch]

This is the one that smoked, I labeled on the case how to hook it up and you can see on the regulator how it is actually labelled.
I just ordered another rectifier from ebay for less than $2 shipped, I can get the reg for under $8 thru a friend ($10 reg/rect for my next project/this may work on a CB360?)

[stueveone]

Kind of bummed. . . I just tested mine out again, after doing the "vintage look" waiting for JB Weld to harden, etc, etc. . .
Little whispers of smoke. The battery voltage is around 10V at idle and about 13.4V at speed, and there are two little relays or what-have-yous that look semi-fried and singeing hot to the touch (See photo)

I wired it exactly how the letters suggested on the REG, ie I - Switched ignition, A - Battery, S - n/a, F - Field coil.

Oh, and I also learned the hard way that cutting open one of the O'Reilly's regulators to try and do the stock mod does not work. It's encapsulated in resin.

Any suggestions people?

[Slams77]

Here is the VR730 as it is installed in my CB400F.  In one of my prior posts I mentioned a voltage drop while running it with the headlight on.  This was due to a battery that #1, wasn’t the correct one (PO installed it) and #2, it was weak and I had to constantly charge it until it finally died.  This current wire configuration maintains a proper charge and works without any of the issues I encountered while doing the initial testing.  Hope this helps.  Please pay no attention to the date stamp, wife's camera and it is not current.