Author Topic: CB 750 Project 1 - Rides Well but a few tweaks needed (Read 116411 times)

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #475 on:** January 31, 2016, 01:08:32 AM »

replaceable lead ones may be for GL1000?...no sohc4 coils with replaceable leads

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #476 on:** January 31, 2016, 01:14:26 AM »

Yeah, I tried my new P&N Cobalt drills on my busted bolt Tim, but they didn't make a mark on that fcuker, if you like, you can bring yours over and show me how, ha ha!

The old fixed lead coils are the "correct" ones for your bike, the later DOHC 3 Ohm coils are designed for electronic ignitions, and they failed on a fairly regular basis, I just bought new ones to replace the OEM ones in my Goldwing, they were cracked and only worked intermittently.

You can buy joiners for the OEM leads and some guys have operated on their coils with dremel tools and silicon to install new 7mm copper cored plug wires, but honestly, you're better off just buying new ones. Genuine Honda coils will cost as much or more than new Dyna 5 Ohm coils, so my advice (for what it's worth) would be to buy some Dyna's. Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #477 on:** January 31, 2016, 01:35:06 AM »

Ok, just to clarify. The coils I have with out leads are most likely dohc coils and can fail. So I should get a set of dyna coils instead.

Terry , have you found anywhere local for decent prices or am I just better off buys from somewhere like dynoman.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #478 on:** January 31, 2016, 02:15:39 AM »

The crappy exchange rate isn't helping at the moment, last time I bought them Z1 Enterprises in the US had them for around $120 US Tim, but I haven't priced any recently? Cheers, Terry.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #479 on:** January 31, 2016, 12:22:08 PM »

How do you weld a bolt to another bolt that's sheared at case level? Explain.......

redwillis1978 · « **Reply #480 on:** January 31, 2016, 03:04:05 PM »

Stud welder.

timbo750 · « **Reply #481 on:** January 31, 2016, 03:25:29 PM »

I can see how that would work, although might be tricky on a 6mm bolt.

redwillis1978 · « **Reply #482 on:** January 31, 2016, 03:32:27 PM »

1/4 stud is perfect. Wait to cool then heat the case and turn with a double nut.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #483 on:** January 31, 2016, 03:44:03 PM »

I'd love to see that work, I own a stud welder and there's no way in practise (as opposed to in theory, where anything might work) a stud could be welded to the sheared remains of a broken bolt that's been jammed into an engine case, and have the weld integrity to remove it. We're talking about a small spot weld here, with no weld material to fill gaps etc. Nice idea, but no cigar.....

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #484 on:** January 31, 2016, 06:47:50 PM »

I reckon you'd melt your engine cases long before you'd achieve a bond strong enough to remove the sheared bolt Cal, another fine theory, but in practise? Doubtful in the extreme......

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #485 on:** January 31, 2016, 07:57:10 PM »

So let me get this right Cal, you snap a 6mm bolt when trying to undo it, and somehow by magic, one or two tiny tacks (1 or 2 mm in diameter?) will be strong enough to allow you to remove the jammed bolt? Unbelievable! You must be the world's greatest welder!

timbo750 · « **Reply #486 on:** February 01, 2016, 12:47:14 AM »

I have been sorting out some of the electrical bits. Got New plugs on the stator coil and color coded with heat shrink. Also rewired the plug and short harness that it plugs into. Now I am trying to decide what to do with the rectifier and regulator. I have stock units but they are pretty filthy and are showing some corrosion. I know everyone talks about how the old units are robust and reliable but I also like solid state electrics.

Edit: also, I know how to check if a solenoid works but how reliable are the starter relays in these bikes. Is it worth replacing for peace of mind?

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #487 on:** February 01, 2016, 01:28:28 AM »

I don't remember having any problems with starter solenoids Tim, but rec/regs are a different matter. I replaced the one on my K1 with a modern one and solved my charging woes. You don't need to spend a lot of money though, just about any modern rec/reg will work. Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #488 on:** February 01, 2016, 01:32:00 AM »

Terry thanks. Z1 Enterprises has one for $99.50 and the 5ohm coils I need are $130, but I can get a rectifier from flea bay from Brisbane for $40 including delivery. From what you are saying I should save myself $60 buck plus postage.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #489 on:** February 01, 2016, 02:29:15 AM »

That's good mate, Z1 Enterprises are cheap, and the owner, Jeff, is a member here, and a good bloke. He used to just sell Kawasaki stuff until an Aussie member convinced him to sell SOHC4 stuff.

I needed some bits for some Mikuni smooth bore carbs, so he stripped a set of his old carbs and sent me the parts for free, I couldn't recommend him more highly. Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #490 on:** February 01, 2016, 02:43:50 AM »

I ordered the rectifier from ebay, couldn't justify twice the price for something that is essentially simple electronics. I have purchsed from Z1 parts before but Z1 enterprises seem to sell better stuff.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #491 on:** February 01, 2016, 08:52:35 PM »

When you say "rectifier" Tim, do you mean "regulator/rectifier"? That's what you want, a modern regulator rectifier combined into one module, unlike the two separate units our bikes came with 45 years ago. Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #492 on:** February 01, 2016, 09:00:57 PM »

Yes mate. Just being lazy and not typing the hole word. I could only find one with the same number of wires.

timbo750 · « **Reply #493 on:** February 05, 2016, 05:55:51 PM »

Got my new rectifier but the wiring needs to be sorted and I have no wiring diagram. I have posted question to group, here is the link if anyone can help.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,154985.new.html#new

Also I need to sort out my side stand. I have an old rusty unit that will clean up alright but when I test fitted it the bike leant over too much for my liking, I think it will cause fuel to leak out of the carby bowls. the other is a nice new chrome unit but it is too long, the bike is almost as vertical as the centre stand. Does anyone know what is an ideal length for a centre stand, this prices I have been looking at seem to high too me so I think I can get one made.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #494 on:** February 06, 2016, 04:13:43 AM »

You're between a rock and hard place there mate, the sh1tty old thing on the left should be thrown in a bin, and the one on the right was meant for choppers with extended forks, hence why it's too long.

Interestingly though, I bought one exactly the same as the chrome one years ago and heated it up with my oxy torch and just bent it a bit, and it was fine until I found a good used OEM sidestand. I've probably still got it in my garage somewhere. Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #495 on:** February 10, 2016, 02:00:18 AM »

Need some help working out were some of the wiring goes. The first is the neutral switch wire, at first I thought I ran up in between the alternator and gear selector cover but I can't seem to get a wire in there, but if it runs underneath then does it just a couple of cable ties to keep it up out of the way.

I was struggling to work out were the oil pressure wires goes but it would seem that passes past the starter motor, I first had the starter motor wire coming out were the pressure switch wire goes in, what a noob. I am also gathering that the points cable runs underneath somewhere but cant work that one out either.

while we are working out where things go I also need some indication of where the clutch cable goes, I have run it a few ways and most seem ok but nothing seems to be perfect but I must admit I am not likely to get it perfect due to the flat bars.

I got the oil apart as well and sent them off to the local hydraulic hose repairer and will get that back tomorrow, also got some stuff back from the electroplaters, got a new battery and all I need now is a clean oil tank (its getting the molasses treatment) my coils to show up, and the new regulator and rectifier. Things are starting to happen.

timbo750 · « **Reply #496 on:** February 10, 2016, 03:49:45 PM »

Cal thanks. I think I need to find some pictures or diagrams, the wiring on this bike was shambles and all over the place when I got it so I have nothing to go by here.

I also just picked up these.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #497 on:** February 10, 2016, 03:53:26 PM »

Quote from: timbo750 on February 10, 2016, 03:49:45 PM

Cal thanks. I think I need to find some pictures or diagrams, the wiring on this bike was shambles and all over the place when I got it so I have nothing to go by here.

I also just picked up these.

Where did you get the oil lines Tim..?

timbo750 · « **Reply #498 on:** February 10, 2016, 04:20:15 PM »

I was lucky enough to have 2 sets. So I pulled one apart cleaned the fittings and went to our local Pirtek where we get our machinery hoses fixed. He had the hose which has a Teflon inner and ordered in special crimps because of the Aluminum fittings so they wouldn't get crushed. I gave him my second set to use as a template for the length.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #499 on:** February 10, 2016, 04:51:19 PM »

Well done with those hoses Tim, I went to ENZED here in Canberra and they wouldn't crimp new hose onto my old fittings, so I just bought a couple of metres of their plain black rubber high pressure oil hose for $26, which I thought was very fair, and will do to get Mikes bike finished and out of my garage. ; D

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Author Topic: CB 750 Project 1 - Rides Well but a few tweaks needed (Read 116411 times)