Topic: Cam Tensioner Problems

[stereosilence]

My cam chain tensioner screw was slipping when I tried to turn it. I took it out and it looks like a tooth may be bent, but perhaps there is keyholing where the bolt goes through. Somehow, the teeth are just not held together tightly and the teeth don't seem to line up. I'm not sure how it happened. Is there a good way to fix this or should I just start looking for a new tensioner somewhere?

Follow link for a photo.
https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=DB10618F27E9F15E!285&authkey=!ABfWeKYcoakhgsQ&v=3

[Frostyboy]

I'd be interested to know if you have removed the plate on top of the pinion on purpose or has it dislodged from somebody hitting on the stud from outside?
I think the plate plays a role in maintaining mesh between the rack & pinion. If it's beyond redemption there are new tensioners around. http://davidsilverspares.com/CB550F1-SUPER-SPORT-1976/part_176173/ not cheap though.
If you do manage to salvage this one, you can still buy new blades as well. http://davidsilverspares.com/CB550F1-SUPER-SPORT-1976/part_4942/ & the front one as well. http://davidsilverspares.com/CB550F1-SUPER-SPORT-1976/part_4940/

btw: is that moly grease you've got all over that? I hope it doesn't find it's way down to the clutch area. 

[stereosilence]

I did take the plate off to see why it would slip when I turned it. Basically, when I seat the gears, and I press on the blades, the bolt doesn't turn.

The grease is all engine assembly lube.

[Frostyboy]

I've been comparing your pics with a brand new tensioner that I have here & can't really see much difference. It's pretty awkward to see behind the plate, but the meshing seems to look the same as in your pics.
So you're saying when you depress the blade, the pinion slips on the rack teeth? The pinion in this new one is really sloppy when weight is placed on the blade, but doesn't go out of timing with the rack.
Sorry if that's not much help 
I've never been a fan of turning the stud with a screwdriver to back the tensioner off. I prefer to loosen the locknut & turn the engine backwards & let the chain do the work for me & then retighten the nut.

[dave500]

there a little flimsy mechanism at best but if not forced they work fine,i turn the screw out gently to help them tighten,the spring doesent always have enough force i think,it cant over come the friction in the mechanism.

[stereosilence]

Yeah, the teeth will come out of mesh. The last teeth on the right don't seem to mesh. They seem to end up point to point. Like I said, there may be keyholing on the other side somehow so the gear can wiggle around too much. I'm unsure. I just don't know what the fix it. It used to work like a charm and I don't think I subjected it to any sort of....well, anything.

[Frostyboy]

I don't know where you're at with the rest of the engine, but are you able to reinstall the tensioner into the case & barrels so that the stud is better supported? It may not be an issue when all that wriggling is eliminated.

[stereosilence]

I don't know how to make it better supported. It seems like there is only one way it goes in.

[bryanj]

If it has been forced in the past and the teeth damaged it maybe possible to repair but it is very fiddly and not easy.

I have said this before YOU SHOULD NEVER USE A SCREWDRIVER IN THE SLOT

[stereosilence]

What do you use in the slot? You have to turn it with something to get the tensioner loose to put the cam in.

[TwoTired]

My cam chain tensioner screw was slipping when I tried to turn it. I took it out and it looks like a tooth may be bent, but perhaps there is keyholing where the bolt goes through. Somehow, the teeth are just not held together tightly and the teeth don't seem to line up. I'm not sure how it happened. Is there a good way to fix this or should I just start looking for a new tensioner somewhere?

Yes, bent. ...Probably from over torquing the screw stud.   As an alternative to replacement, use a big screwdriver blade to bend the tooth back into equal spacing as the others.[/quote]

[bryanj]

You put your finger on the tensioner blade and push it to the rear and do the lock nut up whilst holding it there

[Frostyboy]

I've never been a fan of turning the stud with a screwdriver to back the tensioner off. I prefer to loosen the locknut & turn the engine backwards & let the chain do the work for me & then retighten the nut.

You put your finger on the tensioner blade and push it to the rear and do the lock nut up whilst holding it there

You're right of course Bryan, that's why I prefer my method for removal (^), and a simple push on the blade as you say to reinstall.