Topic: Nerdos' 750K3 restoration

[Nerdos]

@calj737  I doubt I'd find a stem on its own but I could pick up a replacement lower yoke/triple tree for £30/$50 and either have that powder coated or even swap out the stem.  That said the yoke/tree could be damaged if it has been in a shunt.  Decisions, decisions.  If I put the bearings on and then the assembly turns out to be unserviceable then the bearings would want replacing too and that's another £40/$65 to replace those.  I'll sleep on it.

@stewonepot.  I've been around a bit, even lived in Spain for a few months (when my K3 was being manufactured coincidentally) and Nottingham is the best place I've lived although if I could remember my time in Westport, CT then I might have a different opinion.  I was too young to remember that.

[seanbarney41]

I found a similar, but worse, bend in my steering stem, when rebuilding my front end.  Definately the result of some sort of front end impact.  Mine was bad enough that there was no way the new bearing was going on there.  I would think if you can get the bearing on there with some light filing, it should be fine.  No idea how tough it is to source a lower triple in the UK, but if a straight one is available, I would use it.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Buy a lower triple and give yourself some peace of mind.

[calj737]

The bearings won't be lost if you change stems/trees. They should pop on and off and be completely reusable. So don't let that idea stymie your solution.

[Nerdos]

Thank you all for your advice.  As you can see it's all together now and even the dust seal is in the right place which is more than can be said for my CB400F but I was younger and hadn't discovered sohc4.net in those days.  The inside of the stem looked fine and I could not detect any creases or defects from the inside so I dressed the stem lightly with a file - like 30 secs per side and wiggled the spacer and bearing onto the stem.  The fact that the top bearing would not fit easily either suggests to me that either the ID of the bearings is a little too small or that I just need to be prepared to invest a bit more physical effort in getting parts to fit from now on.  Now I fear the time to get the home zinc plating kit out is upon me.  I got it for Christmas and have been looking forward to using it and fearing it in almost equal measure but I think the 8 stamp (or whatever it's called) on the bolt heads adds some authenticity which is lacking in aftermarket parts.

[Nerdos]

Back again.  I've made some progress although I am being hindered by funds.  All the prices I see on this forum are, of course, US prices and by the time I track down the equivalent over here it ends up being at least twice the price.  I've started breaking into the engine and found nothing untoward yet - no broken or badly worn parts.  I was wondering though what these two drawn-on marks are on the cylinder head.  Just a quality control/inspection mark or is it a sign that some warranty work was done? 

Front wheel is rebuilt, rear hub came up quite nicely with scotchbrite and acetone, brass dremel brushes and elbow grease.  Decided to lacquer it with regular wheel lacquer rather than the VHT lacquer I have that requires curing at insanely high temperatures.

The tank is almost ready to go off for paint.  I'm still wavering between Polynesian blue, Planet blue (which was a UK K2 colour - with the smaller tank stripe decals) or the ubiquitous but nonethless great, candy gold.  I've been quoted £400/$670 for the paint job which may take up to 12 weeks.  I've attached a pic of the tank and the inside and have these two questions. 1) Do all tank badges for the 750K attach in the same way - i.e. just press in?  I prefer the white badge of the K2 over the chunkier K3 version.  2) The inside of the tank has what I would describe as minor rust.  From memory, all tanks I have owned on all my bikes with steel tanks have had some level of rusting in them.  Ideally you would want no rust at all but does this look like acceptable rust or does it need some acid action?  Of course, we don't have 'The Works' toilet bowl cleaner over here. :-(

Also still waiting for my forks to be rechromed which are still with the chromer after 6 weeks.  One of them keeps getting pinholes in the chrome and has to be replated and reground.  If I was in a hurry for the forks I'd be annoyed but as long as I get them back soon things will be fine.

I will also mention with the highest praise, Marcel den Butter of CB750faces.com.  I bought a set of faces for the speedo and tacho from him.  I rebuilt the speedo and was half way through the tacho rebuild when I knocked it off some shelving and broke the face. I asked him if I could buy the tacho face separately but he simply sent me a new one, free of charge.  So, excellent service right there.  Dank u wel, Marcel.  The product is also as great as the service I might add.

Hoping to have this bike ready by July 1st in time to take my son to school on it for his 8th birthday.  Can't quite see that happening but you never know.  if not he'll have to be on the 400 Four.

[Nerdos]

Forks came back from the chromer/grinder today.  Took 7 weeks and one of the legs - I suspect the one with the groove across 1/3 of its circumference  - needed to be ground back and rechromed multiple times.  Despite the setbacks they stuck to their quoted price and the forks do look better than new.  Seems a shame that absolutely none of the chrome will be on show but them's the breaks.

Waiting for the UK's answer to The Works to arrive from Belfast.  It won't be of much interest to US members but I'll post the results, good or bad, here when I'm done.

[Nerdos]

In case anyone is interested - and this is primarily aimed at UK members who are denied the delights of 'The Works' toilet cleaner for derusting their tanks - here is a picture of of the inside of my tank after about a day of sitting with Loobrite in it.  This cost about £19 for 5 litres and smells, as one might expect, like the bog of a down-market boozer.  Mixed with the aroma of stale petrol this becomes even less plesant.  Anyway, it seems to have done a good job.  Caveats are that 5l is not enough of course to fill a tank so I started by laying the tank at various angles to ensure that each part of the surface inside got covered.  This worked OK but the problem was that any part of the tank that had just been derusted then flash rusted again.  I decided to top it up with another 5l or so of tap water and this worked well.  All in all the cleaner spent about 36 hours in there before draining.  After that a sluicing out with water and then a liberal application of WD40 to inhibit further rust.  I had removed the fuel tap too and plugged the three holes as per the advice on this forum that the brass pipe would be eaten by the acid.  It's off to the paint shop today with the body parts.  I'm quite excited but also nauseous at how expensive this whole gig is turning out.  Anyone want to buy an Aprilia Caponord?  Or some CB400F spares?  eBay beckons.

[Nerdos]

Here's an update.  I relaced my wheels on new DID rims from DSS and had them fitted with Avon Roadriders in the correct 3.25/19 and 4.00/18 sizes.  As a result I now have a rolling chassis which makes life easier.  The Aprilia Caponord got sold last Satuday which just about covers the rims, spokes, tyres and an OEM exhaust set.  It's a labour of love for sure; it certainly doesn't make any economic or practical sense to do up one of these bikes but it's a nice to follow one's heart rather than one's head every now and then. 

I have unearthed a few problems or questions which I'd appreciate some help with, namely;
a) is this camchain shagged out?  It was tight on the cam sprocket when I took it apart but this looks like a lot of side play to me.  Comments?

b) Is there an art to getting these bloody gaiter rings on?  I have softened the rubber with a heat gun and given the rubber some silicon lube but there just seems to much gaiter to fit inside the metal ring.  I broke a ring getting the forks apart and at £20/$30 each I am loath to break another especially as I'd have to take the front end off again.

[KayOne]

That cam chain is toast. When it can be bent that much laterally means that the side plate pin holes/pins are worn. Cam chains are cheap, but you will have to split the cases to install.

The trim ring must be installed on the fork ears above the gators, it is a real pain to install them. I set up a stool in a comfortable position, lube up the inside of the gator with soapy water, push up the trim ring and push/twist the gator on. One was really tight so I used a wooden popsicle stick to expand the gator to pop on the last section of the circumference that wouldn't go.  Patience is the key.. had to walk away a couple of times.

Hope this helps

[Nerdos]

Yes, thanks, it does reinforce my suspicion that I would have to split the cases.  I was really hoping to avoid that job but at least it will allow me to get the engine painted properly while it is apart.  Just can't beleive it needs replacing after 12,000 miles.

On the topic of painting, my painter sent me these pics today of my previously Bucchus Olive tank, resplendent in its new livery.  I can't go and pick the tank up as it will be too much of a temptation to rush the rest of the build.

[KayOne]

Absolutely gorgeous! Should ease the pain of having to split the cases.

[Nerdos]

So, at the risk of appearing stupid (which I don't mind as I am anonymously behind a computer screen on the other side of the Atlantic) I understand that I should now
1) Disconnect the gaitors from the fork ears
2) Wiggle the metal rings up over the gaitors so that they are metal to metal with the fork ears and in their final position .  Do they snap into place?
3) Disconnect the gaitors from the fork sliders so that they are entirely free on the fork stanchion to move up and down and to give access to the inside of the gaitor
4) Lube the top of the gaitor and somehow persuade it in between the ring and the fork ear, giving the gaitor a bit of prodding from inside to get it to seat.
5) Reconnect the gaitors to the fork sliders.
6) Cup of tea

PS at the risk of seeming like I am gloating a little (and I am) the painter sent me the final picture after polishing.  Soooo tempting to go to the paint shop and pick them up.

[calj737]

With respect to your step-by-step, you may need to amend it a little:

1. deep breath
2. Wriggle and try a bit
3. Drink a beer and relax before another go
4. Wriggle and try some more
5. More beer
6. Try some more, use many expletives
7. Raise voice, swear some at departed souls that thought these up
8. Wriggle, almost got it, wriggle and then...
9. Jump about foolishly like the proverbial Leprechaun whose found his gold
10. Lots more beer with a puffed chest
11. Forego tea and replace with beer.

Hoping none of this is genuinely necessary, actually.

Your painter has done a beautiful job!

[Nerdos]

Thanks for the advice.  Gaiters on in about 10 minutes all-in.  Nice cup of tea and a sit down.

[edwardmorris]

Nice! Its a shame those nicely chromed tubes are not going to be seeing any daylight.

[Nerdos]

True but on the other hand I just had the chassis replaced on my car.  Same effect but much more expensive.  I'll be content to know that the forks are quietly getting on with their job without being noticed.  Like a bassist.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Thanks for the advice.  Gaiters on in about 10 minutes all-in.  Nice cup of tea and a sit down.

10 minutes.  Well done.

[calj737]

 I'll be content to know that the forks are quietly getting on with their job without being noticed.  Like a bassist.

Tell that to Stanley Clark, Geddy Lee or Sting...

[Nerdos]

I hear you, CalJ.  I wrote it as a bassist myself.  And you forgot Jack Bruce.  To avoid being flamed by the admins I will desist from any more off-topic bass-related rambling.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I hear you, CalJ.  I wrote it as a bassist myself.  And you forgot Jack Bruce.  To avoid being flamed by the admins I will desist from any more off-topic bass-related rambling.

No love for Flea or Bootsy Collins?

[calj737]

Flea hardly qualifies as "going about his business quietly and unnoticed" wouldn't you agree? And to your point, there are a HUGE number of frontmen bassists or group members that are very talented and worthy of mention.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Flea hardly qualifies as "going about his business quietly and unnoticed" wouldn't you agree? And to your point, there are a HUGE number of frontmen bassists or group members that are very talented and worthy of mention.

Sarcasm can sometimes be difficult to see in these posts. 
Bootsy isn't quiet either!

[Nerdos]

Little update.  Zinc plating has been ongoing.  Here is a picture of the brake torque stay being plated in a fluorescent light diffuser and the after picture of a few minutes on the polishing wheel.  Shiney.  Not stock I guess but easy on the eye nonetheless.

I have the crankcases apart now in order to replace the camchain and paint cases.  I was pretty confident that the engine would not have been split in 12,000 miles but now I am beginning to have my doubts.  There is sealant between the crankcase halves in areas that I would not expect to find them - i.e. I would only expect to find sealant on the mating faces that form a border between the inside of the engine and the outside, not internal mating faces.  Also, the primary drive chains are not offset from one another.  Is the offset chain a practice that was carried out at the Honda factory or a method that owners have since found beneficial?  I'd appreciate your collective wisdom.  I will be offsetting the chains when it goes back together and I will also submit a picture of where I think the sealant should go and hopefully I will be able to get some confirmation on that when the time comes.
Note my homage to Hondaman bad fingernail.  (A sash window did that, not in the course of motorcyle maintenance).

[Nerdos]

Thanks KayOne on your advice on the camchain.
Here is a pic of the new camchain on the left against the old on the right.  I'd never have thought so much wear could occur in so few miles.  However, I can't say I have seen any bits of swarf in the crankcases so hopefully this will be the only item I will need whilst I have the cases split.  The camchain rollers are nice and smooth and still reasonably pliable.