Topic: Yamiya repop 750 K1 control came wired incorrectly, nope I'm a dummy

[Tews19]

This summer I bought a set of repop controls for my K1. Weird thing today I decided to turn off my headlight while riding. I gave it gas and nothing. UH OH HUH

I quickly turn the headlight on and a backfire out of all pipes! Scared the #$%* out of my wife. I was like wtf.  I get home check all connections and everything is correct.

How could this happen?  Or better yet how can I check what the issue is? While home I turned off the bike. Turned off the headlight and again nothing. It's as of the kill switch is hooked up to the H/L/off switch.

[jerry h]

So does the kill switch kill the bike also?

[Tews19]

Kill switch kills the bike

[Retro Rocket]

Sounds like a dead short somewhere..?

[Don R]

I'd check inside the control for a pinched wire, then check the holes where the wires pass through the bars for a chafed wire. I can't explain the exact short that would cause this. high and low beams work properly?

[Tews19]

I loosened the control, checked the inside and nothing is pinched. Checked the headlight and same thing. Everything is good. I even swapped around the wires that are same colored. Bike still dies if I turn off the headlight.

[calj737]

sounds like you've wired the dimmer switch to the BLK ignition wire, and fed the ignition plate from it. Kill the lights, kill the ignition plate. Did you do something unusual on the left side housing wiring that you can think of?

[Tews19]

I'm not sure what you mean Cal. On a K1 the right hand control has off/low/high beam plus electric start. That's it. I will pull the tank and check under there as well.

[calj737]

I'm not sure what you mean Cal. On a K1 the right hand control has off/low/high beam plus electric start. That's it. I will pull the tank and check under there as well.

What I mean is, is it possible that the 12v switched power from the Key switch, has somehow crossed up with the dimmer circuit. This would "kill" the power supplied to the ignition/coils if you "killed" the lights. For this to be the case, you would have needed to wire this in yourself versus taking a stock switch housing and just connecting to stock bullets. If you used a NOS connection scheme and did nothing custom, then you can ignore this entire line of thinking.

[Tews19]

I did connect the 12v for the dyna ignition to the solid brown brake light. I will Check it out. Thanks Cal.

[Stev-o]

I bought what I believe is the same control for the Patina CB500 Bike earlier this year. I had an issue as well, not the same as you, though. Turned out the wiring within the switch was miswired.
Disappointing, paid $90 for that control, could not find one anywhere else.

[Tews19]

I swapped the black solids in the headlight bucket and same issue. I don't want the bike to fail me while riding.  This blows.

[Tews19]

I'm going to leave it as it is until I take the bike down to get the frame powder coated.

I swapped out all the black solids and even the black/white striped wires. Everything is stock minus the dyna ignition and coils.

I hate to say it but I think it's the repop control. The wires were coming out of the male/female connectors. I know my original 40 plus yr old crusty harness doesn't have that happen.... The blue headlight wire from the control was unplugged from the stock harness yet the headlight remained on. I removed the black solid (repop has 2 black solid wires) an the headlight did not work.

[Tews19]

My question is, can I ride and not worry about issues while riding?  I've put well over 1400 miles on it since install with no issues minus turning the headlight off.

[PeWe]

12V to coils switched off by the headlight switch? (Black/White wire)
Disconnect all connections from the new handle bar switch and measure what happen on each wire when using the switches.

I did that with my new handle bar switches, marked all wires and checked with circuit diagarm before connecting them. I have K6 Europe version...

K6 have a small jumper between black and brown/white in headlight housing that should be there, if not no functional lights. K1 diagram has no such jumper.

I checked the K1 diagram instead of going to bed....it's late here
I think that your black wire to ignition switch (kill switch) on handle bar is switched off by head light switch.
Black wire from headlight switch might be connected in series with ign switch on handle bar (kill sw) instead of both connected to the common black (12V)

[Tews19]

Ahh PeWe. You gave me an idea so I had to check. I remembered at one time my taillight would not be on but the brake light worked. A member told me to jump the taillight to a ground or the brown and white wire. Well i used a green ground wire in the headlight bucket and tapped it into the brown white wire. Hence why everything looked good. I unplugged the jump and hooked up to the solid black.  Well what do you know it fixed the problem!  Thanks again all!