Topic: How to remove and replace needle roller bearings from clutch centre?

[CG2000]

I have my clutch basket / primary drive assembly out on the bench and 2 needle roller bearings to pull out and replace.

Any tips on

a. Getting the old ones out?
b. Putting the new ones in?

C.


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[Kickstart]

I believe you're talking about the primary chain sprockets. You need to use a blind bearing puller to get them out.  I got a blind bearing puller set at Harbor Freight that did the trick.

I used a lot of penetrating oil.  I also placed the the sprocket assembly on a hot griddle plate.  Even with the penetrating oil, heat, and the proper tool it took me many attempts to get each one of them out... but it's definitely doable.

I thought about using a propane torch, but I noticed there seems to be some rubber dampers inside the sprockets and I didn't want to over heat them, so I just stuck to using the griddle plate with it set at 250 degrees F (not sure how accurate that is).

Putting them back in.  I put the new bearings in the freezer for a few hours (longer would be better), heated up the sprocket assembly on the griddle again, and used some grease.  I used a bearing driver until I got the new bearing flush, and then used one of the old bearings to help counter sink the new one (I think one was countersunk and the other was flush - don't recall exactly). 

I recommend you measure the depth of the countersunk bearing before you take it out, so you know how deep to drive the new one in.  I messed up one of my new bearings because I kept on hitting it even though it was fully seated - had to order a new one and re-do it

Good luck!

[CG2000]

Yup those are the ones, on either side of the primary chain sprocket. Thanks for the detailed instructions, I'll give it a shot!

Can you recall if this is the blind bearing puller you got? http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html

Cheers.

[edwardmorris]

Much cheaper to have a machine shop replace those, and since you're going this far, might as well install SKFs in there. Tool in near $80, replacement cost was $20 labor at my local machine shop for reference...

[CG2000]

Yer, true. I found the same tool on Amazon for $40 inc postage so am going for that, $20 investment for a new tool!


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[Nic]

I put the hub on the vice and just banged em out with a drift, they came out easy?? What's all the fuss. I put the new ones in using a length of 3/8 threaded rod. WTF.

[CG2000]

Nic, you are a bearing legend. So your drift, was it like rod passing though one bearing at an angle to rest on the inside edge of the opposite bearing's housing? You could get purchase on the edge of the housing like that? I tried that last night but the rod just slide off the edge.

[Nic]

Nic, you are a bearing legend. So your drift, was it like rod passing though one bearing at an angle to rest on the inside edge of the opposite bearing's housing? You could get purchase on the edge of the housing like that? I tried that last night but the rod just slide off the edge.

Yeah, maybe square up your drift on the bench grinder first. I don't recall the drift slipping off once, it was all too easy. My drift was simply a 1/2" piece of pipe. Now getting the lower race of an all balls tapered bearing set out of the frame was a different story, the lip inside there was real minimal and i had to shape the end of the pipe so it would bite better just as an aside. Legend? rightio 

[Retro Rocket]

I made some pretty cool drifts out of stainless steel drive shafts from old washing machines, even have a long bent one for the frame bearing set...

[Kickstart]

CG2000, yeah I got the puller set from Harbor freight.  Not sure if that's the same exact one, but I think they only sell one set.  Mine has a red plastic case. 

If you don't feel like spending the money, see if one of your local auto-parts stores has one that they will loan you (a lot of places near me loan tools for free - not sure if they loan a blind bearing puller though).  Or, do what Edwards said and find a local shop to do it for you.

Nic, more power to anyone who got those bastards out without using a blind puller slide-hammer tool.  I'm impressed. 

Before I finally broke down and bought the tool, I spent hours pounding on those bearings.  At least on mine, there was hardly any lip.  My brass drift kept slipping off... I think I went thought every tool in the garage that would fit in there with no luck (screw drivers, hardwood dowels, pipes, etc.)  The puller even slipped out on me 3-4 times before I got each bearing out.

The advantage of the puller tool is you can get the lip of the puller right behind the bearing and then crank down on it to tighten it, which forces the tool into the gap between the bearing and the metal around it.

[Nic]

I kept the old bearings along with every other replaced part, dunno why but here are pics of both sides of the bearings, you can see, hardly a mark on em?

[70CB750]

BTW, Autozone may have a bearing puller tool to borrow, I think I saw it in my locacl store.

How about the old grease trick?  I used it many times on pilot bearing.  You just pack it full of grease and drive in a punch that fits in the bearing with minimum play.  The hydraulic pressure from the grease will get the bearing out.

[CG2000]

Phew, managed it by bashing them out with a screwdriver and spark plug socket ... wrote it all up here ...

http://wrenchandspanner.wordpress.com/2014/12/14/cb750f-transmission-bearings/

[PeWe]

I left it for my local tuner. The only bearing in the engine I could not change by myself. (Except for the con rods that my local tuner did when micro polishing, balancing the crank.)