Topic: 73 CB750 Rear Hub Help

[Powderman]

I'm in the process of coating customer parts off his 73 CB750. Even though I have years of mechanics experience I don't normally offer disassembly service when coating parts. In this case I made an exception as I figured it would be a piece of cake (I know better). Well I got as far as removing the sprocket nuts and lock washers. I looked at the fiche and it looks different than the one I have in hand. Sorry I don't have a pic right now. The fiche shows a sprocket plate after you remove the nuts and washers from the sprocket, mine doesn't have this plate. It looks as though the sprocket and flange that holds the bearing retainer are all one piece. The final drive flange should just separate from the hub but it is locked. How do I separate them without doing damage?

The "screw" that holds the speedo cable in the drive is buggered enough for me to not be able to tell if it is a phillips, torx, or allen. Which is it?

[chewbacca5000]

On the rear hub to get the sprocket off I normally use a wooden handle as a drift.  Hit at 12, 6, 3, and 9 'oclock working your way all the way around.  It takes a bit of doing but will come off.  Those hubs also have bearings are you planning on removing them?  I would avoid if possible unless the out gas is too much to bear.

If you have to remove them that really adds to the work.  I got a tool from pit possie to get them out.  Just put the whole hub in the oven heat to 300 and use the pit possie tool and they come out in a couple taps, but can't be re used.

A better approach might be to make sure the rim is straight and true and do the whole thing.

[Powderman]

Chewy, I won't coat a wheel assembled for a number of reasons. The chrome on the rims are so far gone the blaster will have fun removing it all. Spokes were already cut when I got the parts, some short ends were still in the hub. I just don't understand some customers. From what I have seen so far this guy doesn't know enough to be building this thing. I see it as another project being sold up the road. I planned on removing all bearings and tossing them. Knew heat would be my buddy in removing them. But are they still a biatch to get out? I think I can cut a 2x4 to use as a drift wedge. The cush drive is pretty solid. I assume I will destroy the nipples on the cush rubbers removing them, correct?

[chewbacca5000]

Chewy, I won't coat a wheel assembled for a number of reasons. The chrome on the rims are so far gone the blaster will have fun removing it all. Spokes were already cut when I got the parts, some short ends were still in the hub. I just don't understand some customers. From what I have seen so far this guy doesn't know enough to be building this thing. I see it as another project being sold up the road. I planned on removing all bearings and tossing them. Knew heat would be my buddy in removing them. But are they still a biatch to get out? I think I can cut a 2x4 to use as a drift wedge. The cush drive is pretty solid. I assume I will destroy the nipples on the cush rubbers removing them, correct?

In my experience the bearings are enough of a PITA to buy a special tool for removal. 

Here is what I got. 

http://www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-Motorcycle-Separator-Extractor/dp/B005SUVQUK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1424644825&sr=8-2&keywords=pit+posse+wheel+bearing+removal

After drilling out the stakes and removing the retainer.  I use a start screw driver as a drift.  You heat that hub nice and hot then use the pit posse tool.

The bar with the slot goes in the same way as the front axle then select correct diameter female piece and hammer that on.  Then with a pot holder or heavy gloves bang it out.  Takes 1 to 3 wacks.

It is alot of work.  I like doing the rims, as I can get them to come out great, but messing with the hubs and bearings is the pits.

Others say the wood or metal drift will work and that is true, but will take several tries.  The tool works every time.

[Powderman]

I'm still looking for a response on the sprocket itself. The parts fiche shows a flat sprocket as pictured:

Mine looks like the bearing hub is part of the sprocket:




Never mind, just took a bigger whack with the BFH to separate the flat sprocket.

This hub weighs more than both my wheels together, ouch.

[chewbacca5000]

I have a sprocket like that in the basement looks like it takes the 630 chain.  Can you flip it over and post a pic?  I will check my parts shelf after dinner.

[Powderman]

I assume the cush drive needs to be removed with the wedge/drift with the sprocket still in place?

[chewbacca5000]

I assume the cush drive needs to be removed with the wedge/drift with the sprocket still in place?

That would be correct.  It is easier to do with the wheel fully assembled as you have the leverage provided by the rim and spokes.  You are going to have to find a way to mount or strap that hub to something to bang the drive off.

Your a stand up guy Powderman.  I would probably be telling the guy to bring it back to me empty.

[Powderman]

I assume the cush drive needs to be removed with the wedge/drift with the sprocket still in place?

That would be correct.  It is easier to do with the wheel fully assembled as you have the leverage provided by the rim and spokes.  You are going to have to find a way to mount or strap that hub to something to bang the drive off.

Your a stand up guy Powderman.  I would probably be telling the guy to bring it back to me empty.

I'm very nearly there or his bill is going to be higher.

What is the pin holding the speedo cable in?

.

[chewbacca5000]

That is not a speedometer cable it is the bearing retainer.  It has 4 circles and should have punch marks between the bearing retainer and hub.  You need to very carefully drill out the peens with a small drill bit.

The speedmeter drive is on the front hub.

[MCRider]

I assume the cush drive needs to be removed with the wedge/drift with the sprocket still in place?

No, either way.

On the bearing removal, drill the stakes out, small bit slightly larger than the hole and slithly deeper tahn the stake hole. Then rotate the retainer ring CCW with a pin wrench or a homemeade pin spanner, or a hammer and punch. Getting the bearings out is easy compared to the bearing ring. Just drift them out from opposite sides.

[chewbacca5000]

I assume the cush drive needs to be removed with the wedge/drift with the sprocket still in place?

No, either way.

On the bearing removal, drill the stakes out, small bit slightly larger than the hole and slithly deeper tahn the stake hole. Then rotate the retainer ring CCW with a pin wrench or a homemeade pin spanner, or a hammer and punch. Getting the bearings out is easy compared to the bearing ring. Just drift them out from opposite sides.

Ron,

I think he wants to know how to get that big sprocket off without the rim / spokes attached.  How can he get any purchase on that thing?

[Powderman]

That is not a speedometer cable it is the bearing retainer.  It has 4 circles and should have punch marks between the bearing retainer and hub.  You need to very carefully drill out the peens with a small drill bit.

The speedmeter drive is on the front hub.

I'm sorry, that question was unrelated to the rear. There is a pin of some sort holding the plastic end of the speedo cable in the speedo drive. It's rusty and I can't tell if it's phillips, allen, or star.

[chewbacca5000]

It used to be JIS or Phillips.

[MCRider]

I assume the cush drive needs to be removed with the wedge/drift with the sprocket still in place?

No, either way.

On the bearing removal, drill the stakes out, small bit slightly larger than the hole and slithly deeper tahn the stake hole. Then rotate the retainer ring CCW with a pin wrench or a homemeade pin spanner, or a hammer and punch. Getting the bearings out is easy compared to the bearing ring. Just drift them out from opposite sides.

Ron,

I think he wants to know how to get that big sprocket off without the rim / spokes attached.  How can he get any purchase on that thing?

Hmm that will be tricky,   

[Johnie]

I had a bad speedo phillips screw that was all buggered up. I took my Dremel and made a slot and used my impact driver to remove it.

[Powderman]

It used to be JIS or Phillips.

This was accurate, as in used to be. How do I get this one out? Usual methods, heat it up, hit it with a hammer, hit it with a bigger hammer, Use an easy brake off on it?

BTW,  got the sprocket off, just required a bigger whack of the hammer. It was a tighter fit to the hub than I thought. And OMG this hub weighs more than both my wheels put together.

Now that the sprocket is off I see great difficulty in getting the cush drive apart. I can get at  the ribs on the back of the cush drive through the back side of the hub but using a drift to try and drive the cush drive out yields absolutely no movement.

[Johnie]

What worked for me is one post up...try it. If that does not work try your other ideas.

[chewbacca5000]

Glad to hear you got the sprocket off that is progress.  They can be tough to get off without being laced up.  Like Johnny says cutting a slot works.  Left handed drill bits work good too.

[Powderman]

Okay the usual we ain't saving this screw farked up screw extraction methods.  Now how do I get the drive hub out of the wheel hub? The cush rubbers are pretty tight.

[Johnie]

Bolt the sprocket back on and pull like a SOB...never had one I could not get out this way. Of course I have the tire on and can stand on it for leverage. I see your tire and spokes are gone...will be tough.

[Airborne 82nd]

@ Powderman. I'm not sure what puller you got. On that link you posted there are a few.

[Powderman]

@ Powderman. I'm not sure what puller you got. On that link you posted there are a few.

Did I post a link? I may have in a quote.
A blind bearing puller is the correct tool. I like this one for the money:

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Bearing-Removal-08-0501/dp/B007GR4POW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1424670180&sr=8-3&keywords=blind+bearing+puller

[chewbacca5000]

If your not trying to reuse the bearings I would go with this one.  17 5 star reviews works every time.  I got it and works great.

http://www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-Motorcycle-Separator-Extractor/dp/B005SUVQUK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1424644825&sr=8-2&keywords=pit%20posse%20wheel%20bearing%20removal&tag=viglink21052-20

[754]

Try to lay hub on ground, and hold with your bootsoles inside the spoke flanges, the pull up on reattached sprocket. Failing that use two 1x4s against the flanges and screw down to piece of plywood.
 The sprocket likely is aluminum, and was harder To get off if it was corroded on the interface, between it and the hub.