I have 5 relays in my CB750! It should be renamed to CB750R!
The cheap Auto relay has become smaller...
http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTGv4J7lsHFeYFjB_iTjSRU7XGoO_WBu7vMYW8opJZgOrfj4TEqAll relays connected to a socket with wires. Stable and easy to change relay if needed.
http://images.biltema.com/PAXToImageService.svc/altimage/xlarge/42-314_xl_1.jpg1.) Relay mounted beside the fuse box. - Wire from ign switch to coils, black/white cut and extended to the relay. Ign switch will now only switch on relay. From relay 12V with its own hanging fuse close to the battery before relay and connected to the cut part to coils.
2-3) Headlamp relays. Activated by the wires that before feeded the H4 bulb (Hi, Lo). Get 12V from battery with hanging fuses close to battery (before relays). Thick wires routed all the way into the relays. I think I have one 12V wire each to Hi and Lo. They could share one wire and fuse too. Separate wires and fuses will ensure that Hi ond Lo will not blow all light if causing a short circuit.
4.) One more relay inside headlamp. This was due to bad parking bulb that created a short without burning the fuse but NO 12 V to H4 (Hi/Lo). This relay has opposite function. It will open 12V to parking bulb when LO light get power. This make it possible to use really strong LED parking lamp without destroying the light pattern on LO. I'll use parking lamp as daylight light when we have that low and I want to be visible.
Parking light will be lit at switch P and Hi. Parking light has it's own small hanging fuse here to not kill the important 12V to Hi or maybe Lo too.
I have European bar switch with parking light control and a Headlamp reflector with it too.
The 3 relays inside Headlamp now moved outside when the LED H4 bulb with electronics needed the space.
5.) Relay for horn. Same style. Own 12V cable from battery with hanging fuse close to the battery. Old horn wire turn on relay instead of horn. I use dual snail horn that need more amps. They do not work with OEM wire and switch.