Topic: Not easy to install rear shock... Help

[briancwynn]

So removing the old rear shock and installing the new one has been a pain.  What is the trick to sliding the shock onto the mount?  My bushing does not want to go on while inserted into the shock and the shock will not slide on while the bushing is mount?  What is the secret to putting these on?   

[Steve_K]

Any chance the old shock left the bushing on the frame mount?  Other than that, are you sure the bushing diameter is right for your bike?  And is the shock made for your bike?  Other than that I got nothing else to suggest.  Good luck resolving you problem.
Steve

[DH]

Dish soap or just something slick that won't eat rubber. Are there sleeves in the upper mounts?
If so,  how do they compare to the old ones?
Install the upper mounts first  and they should just swing down till the clevis lines up with the lower mount.
No weight on the rear wheel. Do you have the right shocks for your bike?

[tlbranth]

Dish soap or just something slick that won't eat rubber. Are there sleeves in the upper mounts?
If so,  how do they compare to the old ones?
Install the upper mounts first  and they should just swing down till the clevis lines up with the lower mount.
No weight on the rear wheel. Do you have the right shocks for your bike?

Yes assuming the stuff is compatible, lube things. Armorall works well for this. The shocks I picked up on ebay were generic and nothing in the kit fit so I wound up making bushings out of some rubber tubing - might've even been hose pipe.

[mystic_1]

Spit on the tip of your finger, lube the inside of the hole, and then wiggle it around and twist a bit back and forth as you apply pressure.

No, seriously!   



After lubing the bushing. I like to hold the shock clevis with one hand and with the other I apply pressure to the upper mount to force the rubber grommet over the upper mount stud.  With the hand that is holding the lower end of the shock, pivot the shock forward and back, which will twist the rubber bushing around the mounting stud as you apply pressure with your upper hand.  The lower hand can also push the shock towards and away from the centerline of the bike, sort of "rocking" the bushing onto the stud.

Make sure the mounting stud doesn't have any sharp edges or burrs or it'll tear up the rubber.  You do want a tight fit up here there, but you shouldn't have to Hulk it into place or use any tools.

mystic_1

[briancwynn]

So I got it on by boaring out the inside of the bushing.  But with that said the washer and bolt does not hold the shock in place, assuming it will move slightly as it gets worked in

[Retro Rocket]

Brian, make sure none of those filings work their way down the shaft, they'll eat that seal in no time....

[LesterPiglet]

Is there supposed to be a grab rail attached there? That would take uup your lateral slack.

[Wobbly]

Is there supposed to be a grab rail attached there? That would take uup your lateral slack.

You are absolutely right: Of course that is were the rail attaches. 

[mystic_1]

Didn't realize you were mounting non-stock shocks.  Do you have the stock shocks?  If so, compare them and I'll bet you find that your new shocks are simply narrower than the stock ones at the top.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the grab rail only fits over the threaded portion of the upper shock mount.  So, it's not going to take up that slack.

Depending on the design you may even be able to swap the rubber bushings from the stock shocks into your new ones, that'll help with the "hole too small" issue but not with the width issue.

mystic_1

[Wobbly]

I don't have access to my bike right now, but I believe that--come to think of it--you are right: Only the threaded portion is covered by the grab rail--in which case these shocks are certainly not a good replacement. Also, either the original shocks or the Koni shocks, that are a specific replacement, come on and off easy for me. It would have helped to mention what kind of shocks are used here.

[briancwynn]

Think I should put washers in there to make up the difference on the width?

[briancwynn]

Thanksall for the input. I wanted to go with the generic shock first to understand the difference between original old versus new generic and affordable.  I will get hagons when or if I can tell a difference with my around town riding style.

[calj737]

you definitely want the shock "snugged" against the nut. This prevents lateral play under load. Either a washer or a spacer between shock and hoop, with a washer between shock and nut. But don't stack washers against each other.

[briancwynn]

Thanks Cal and all will do!