Author Topic: What's good clear coat to use to spray cast aluminum hubs,engine covers,etc. ? (Read 6948 times)

grcamna2 · « **on:** September 14, 2015, 09:03:44 AM »

I cleaned off the corrosion from my front and rear hubs w/ red Scotchbrite so they would have a dull satin finish which will give clearcoat something to adhere to;I obviously don't want to prime them w/ any colored primer but want to spray a good quality clear coat(rattle can)right onto the bare,roughed-up cast aluminum parts.
Any ideas ? thanks

Steve F · « **Reply #1 on:** September 14, 2015, 09:40:45 AM »

I've had good luck with Rust-o-leum clear, not so good with Duplicolor. Duplicolor seems to yellow and it chips easily. I would recommend if you can, to have the parts powdercoated.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #2 on:** September 14, 2015, 10:01:01 AM »

Quote from: Steve F on September 14, 2015, 09:40:45 AM

I've had good luck with Rust-o-leum clear, not so good with Duplicolor. Duplicolor seems to yellow and it chips easily. I would recommend if you can, to have the parts powdercoated.

ok,thanks Steve.
I thought about powdercoating my hubs but don't want to have to remove the new bearings I just installed,the oven would cook my bearings if I left them in. Did you spray the Rust-o-leum clear(is it enamel or lacquer ?)right onto the bare aluminum ?

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #3 on:** September 14, 2015, 01:18:18 PM »

I was going to suggest clear powdercoating, but it looks like you nix that idea.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #4 on:** September 14, 2015, 05:28:42 PM »

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on September 14, 2015, 01:18:18 PM

I was going to suggest clear powdercoating, but it looks like you nix that idea.

I should have waited to install the new bearings.. How is that 2K stuff ?

Steve F · « **Reply #5 on:** September 14, 2015, 06:24:24 PM »

Quote from: grcamna2 on September 14, 2015, 10:01:01 AM

Quote from: Steve F on September 14, 2015, 09:40:45 AM
I've had good luck with Rust-o-leum clear, not so good with Duplicolor. Duplicolor seems to yellow and it chips easily. I would recommend if you can, to have the parts powdercoated.

ok,thanks Steve.
I thought about powdercoating my hubs but don't want to have to remove the new bearings I just installed,the oven would cook my bearings if I left them in. Did you spray the Rust-o-leum clear(is it enamel or lacquer ?)right onto the bare aluminum ?

I sprayed them with the rattle can stuff, and like I said I was happier with the Rust-O-Leum product. The stuff is super watery and runs if you're not careful, so you do several LIGHT coats and the results are quite good. Light coats are a mist and nothing more. Be sure that you thoroughly clean the bare metal with mineral spirits followed with lacquer thinner and left to dry overnight before you spray, handle the clean bare metal with clean cloths or get some powder free gloves or you could leave unwanted finger prints that will show through the clear.
Have fun!
Steve F

grcamna2 · « **Reply #6 on:** September 14, 2015, 06:32:36 PM »

Quote from: Steve F on September 14, 2015, 06:24:24 PM

Quote from: grcamna2 on September 14, 2015, 10:01:01 AM
Quote from: Steve F on September 14, 2015, 09:40:45 AM
I've had good luck with Rust-o-leum clear, not so good with Duplicolor. Duplicolor seems to yellow and it chips easily. I would recommend if you can, to have the parts powdercoated.

ok,thanks Steve.
I thought about powdercoating my hubs but don't want to have to remove the new bearings I just installed,the oven would cook my bearings if I left them in. Did you spray the Rust-o-leum clear(is it enamel or lacquer ?)right onto the bare aluminum ?
I sprayed them with the rattle can stuff, and like I said I was happier with the Rust-O-Leum product. The stuff is super watery and runs if you're not careful, so you do several LIGHT coats and the results are quite good. Light coats are a mist and nothing more. Be sure that you thoroughly clean the bare metal with mineral spirits followed with lacquer thinner and left to dry overnight before you spray, handle the clean bare metal with clean cloths or get some powder free gloves or you could leave unwanted finger prints that will show through the clear.
Have fun!
Steve F

Thanks Steve

RAFster122s · « **Reply #7 on:** September 14, 2015, 07:32:15 PM »

The 2K Spraymax in a spray can works well and one can should do the covers. You are going to take a couple coats and have to do it in one day or the 2K will set hard in the can. The 2k runs about 18-20.
Beware that you should buy fresh cans, they have a date code and recommended use before date on the can.
$17.40 can plus shipping. They ship FedEx and shipping to me was estimated at $8.99

I would buy two cans and sell 2nd if I didn't need it on eBay.

Repaintsupply.com has good prices.
David

grcamna2 · « **Reply #8 on:** September 14, 2015, 08:09:26 PM »

Quote from: RAF122S on September 14, 2015, 07:32:15 PM

The 2K Spraymax in a spray can works well and one can should do the covers. You are going to take a couple coats and have to do it in one day or the 2K will set hard in the can. The 2k runs about 18-20.
Beware that you should buy fresh cans, they have a date code and recommended use before date on the can.
$17.40 can plus shipping. They ship FedEx and shipping to me was estimated at $8.99

I would buy two cans and sell 2nd if I didn't need it on eBay.

Repaintsupply.com has good prices.
David

David,
I read a bit off of that link you listed and I see they recommend a base/primer coat first..
How did you do your bare aluminum parts,did you use this product ?

RAFster122s · « **Reply #9 on:** September 14, 2015, 09:14:42 PM »

I have not used in on bare aluminum, I have used it on a car panel.
I just thought of it as it is a great clear that is UV stable and easy to work with as long as you don't apply to heavy. 2-3 light coats

grcamna2 · « **Reply #10 on:** September 15, 2015, 06:36:01 AM »

David,
I want to use that product

but just want to be sure I prep the surface first;I wonder if anyone else here will add to this ? They're probably all out riding today

RAFster122s · « **Reply #11 on:** September 15, 2015, 10:36:06 AM »

Give the folks at R & E Paint Supply a call and talk about it with them. I know people have used it on tanks and sidecovers. I can't imagine it being a issue on bare aluminum if it is clean. Sidecovers can be baked at 200 for an hour to get them to release oil that might be in the aluminum. I know brake parts are sometimes done this way.
Just clean the covers well and let them dry overnight in a warm dustfree area then spray would be my approach. No touching after cleaning and powder free gloves only...

grcamna2 · « **Reply #12 on:** September 15, 2015, 07:16:12 PM »

ok thanks David,that's good advice.I've never used clear over bare aluminum yet myself so it's all new to me.
I was hoping others here on the forum would be able to offer some advice as you have,they may have even done this exact thing we're speaking about and I can use any helpful feedback I can get right now.I try my best to get educated about what I'd like to do first before I just dive in on my own

RAFster122s · « **Reply #13 on:** September 15, 2015, 08:36:33 PM »

Nils and Branden were talking about clearing vapor blasted parts. Problem most clears have are yellowing after sun exposure over time. Check out Nils thread about vapor blast service in Services section of the forum.
David

grcamna2 · « **Reply #14 on:** September 16, 2015, 05:39:07 AM »

I've been following his thread on vapor blasting and that's a nice looking finish.
I still want to use a rattle can and clear spray these parts for now;I'm just going to do the hubs to start.
I need some feedback from any members on here who've done that. Anybody ?

Steve F · « **Reply #15 on:** September 16, 2015, 06:43:07 AM »

I've blasted almost everything before painting or coating, and I use glass beads. I'm not familiar with vapor blasting or soda blasting. I can't imagine doing it any other way, i.e. sanding by hand or steel wool etc..
Once you get to see how nice things come out after being blasted, (by whatever means you use) you won't even think about the hand methods. You can totally clean and prep an entire stripped down hub in under an hour and that includes flushing out any holes and final cleaning ready for coating. You MUST flush all grit and media from holes, especially threaded ones, to prevent troubles upon reassembly.
Steve F

grcamna2 · « **Reply #16 on:** September 16, 2015, 02:59:48 PM »

Quote from: Steve F on September 16, 2015, 06:43:07 AM

I've blasted almost everything before painting or coating, and I use glass beads. I'm not familiar with vapor blasting or soda blasting. I can't imagine doing it any other way, i.e. sanding by hand or steel wool etc..
Once you get to see how nice things come out after being blasted, (by whatever means you use) you won't even think about the hand methods. You can totally clean and prep an entire stripped down hub in under an hour and that includes flushing out any holes and final cleaning ready for coating. You MUST flush all grit and media from holes, especially threaded ones, to prevent troubles upon reassembly.
Steve F

I've already done it all by hand so it's ready to be coated w/ clear..

mystic_1 · « **Reply #17 on:** September 26, 2015, 07:28:33 AM »

For what it's worth, I've used a bunch of the Spraymax 2K paints now. I love the stuff.

It's a legit catalyzed urethane paint, basically just like what you'd shoot out of a spray gun, but in a rattle can. Surface prep and application should be the same as if you were using any other catalyzed urethane paint, so if you'd do it with a gun you can do it with this stuff.

The spray nozzles aren't bad either, decent fan pattern, better than what you get on typical rattle cans. My only complaint is the yield per can is lower than you'd expect, because of the internal chamber which holds the catalyst prior to activation.

I tend to leave my polished aluminum bare, so I can re-polish if necessary in the future, but if I was going to clear-coat I would reach for this stuff first.

mystic_1

dusterdude · « **Reply #18 on:** September 26, 2015, 01:24:40 PM »

Spraymax is damn good stuff

grcamna2 · « **Reply #19 on:** October 01, 2015, 09:03:18 AM »

I picked up a rattle can of Urethane clear coat that is also recommended for metal,any of you used that ?
The worker in the Ace hardware store has used it and told me if it was applied too heavily it would have a type of 'yellow' tint but she did recommend it,I just wondered if it was a straightforward type of application process just like regular paint? I'd like to spray it over my bare aluminum hubs that I've cleaned off w/ Scotchbrite red and then finished off w/ a grey scuff pad.I made sure to leave them more 'satin' than shiny.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #20 on:** October 01, 2015, 05:54:14 PM »

Be aware that most of the spray paints you can buy at your local hardware store aren't nearly as hard or chemically resistant as a catalyzed paint.

For sure you can use the off-the-shelf stuff and get a nice looking finish, but it'll scratch much easier and if you get any gas anywhere near it, it's toast instantly. Some people have had good luck with Rustoleum and some Duplicolor paints seem to do ok. Heat curing them is very important on these paints, but even at it's best, normal spray paints just aren't nearly as durable as two-part paints or powdercoating.

That said, if you're on a budget, there's nothing wrong at all with using normal urethane spraypaint. It's more about the surface preparation, cleaning, and application.

What brand of paint did you buy?

mystic_1

dusterdude · « **Reply #21 on:** October 02, 2015, 08:58:15 AM »

If you're going to get gas or oil anywhere close to your clearcoat,use a hardened clear

grcamna2 · « **Reply #22 on:** October 02, 2015, 03:43:51 PM »

Quote from: mystic_1 on October 01, 2015, 05:54:14 PM

Be aware that most of the spray paints you can buy at your local hardware store aren't nearly as hard or chemically resistant as a catalyzed paint.

For sure you can use the off-the-shelf stuff and get a nice looking finish, but it'll scratch much easier and if you get any gas anywhere near it, it's toast instantly. Some people have had good luck with Rustoleum and some Duplicolor paints seem to do ok. Heat curing them is very important on these paints, but even at it's best, normal spray paints just aren't nearly as durable as two-part paints or powdercoating.

That said, if you're on a budget, there's nothing wrong at all with using normal urethane spraypaint. It's more about the surface preparation, cleaning, and application.

What brand of paint did you buy?

mystic_1

I understand what you're saying about a professionally mixed clear coat from a body shop..,they can mix hardener in it to cause it to have a hard surface to resist scratches? The brand I bought was just a Ace in-house brand.

dusterdude · « **Reply #23 on:** October 02, 2015, 05:08:52 PM »

Spraymax has a very good hardened clear in a spray can

grcamna2 · « **Reply #24 on:** October 25, 2015, 06:55:31 AM »

I prepped it and sprayed it w/ the ACE Polyurethane clear,it covered good and seems very durable.
I found that if I apply it too heavy it 'yellows' a little.I put it in the oven at 150 for an hr. to cure it and I think it'll do fine.

I had used newspaper on the cellar floor because it was raining outside and I don't have a bench;I'll have to do something else next time I do one because it should be suspended and able to spin to get all the areas w/o and touching like what I had.I just wanted to protect this CB350 drum front hub for now but learned a bit about how I would do it next time;still,it's protected from the elements and won't corrode for now..

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Author Topic: What's good clear coat to use to spray cast aluminum hubs,engine covers,etc. ? (Read 6948 times)