Topic: 1976 CB750F - first bike, first build - mild cafe

[riffman12]

The build thread is older, but there are lots of photos.  See my Nine Lives build thread link in my signature. 

The brake lines were ordered custom.

really nice work

as for brake lines, any idea what length I would need to run from the MC on to each caliper (clubman bars)? Slingshot has yet to get back to me.

[s10hornet]

just tuned in to this thread and noticed your post about jetting the carbs.
I have a 76 f model as well with the Carpy exhaust.  I am running 115 jets with a
K&N filter in the stock airbox.  Plugs look perfect.

[riffman12]

just tuned in to this thread and noticed your post about jetting the carbs.
I have a 76 f model as well with the Carpy exhaust.  I am running 115 jets with a
K&N filter in the stock airbox.  Plugs look perfect.

awesome! That's what I like to hear 

did you change pilots / clip position at all?

[JWExperience]

I have the carpy exhaust and k&n in the stock box and I'm running 42/120. No noticeable difference between 40 and 42's so I stayed at 42 because I would rather be on the rich side. Needle in the stock position and my bike is a 76 K. Each bike is a little different but 40/115 or 40/120 should be a very good starting point if your exhaust and intake are the same as above. I have nice tan plugs too


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[riffman12]

have any of you folks in CA mounted a license plate vertically like this?



If so, do the police hassle you?

Really scratching my head trying to figure out how to mount this license plate anywhere except the axle.

[s10hornet]

no other changes.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

have any of you folks in CA mounted a license plate vertically like this?



If so, do the police hassle you?

Really scratching my head trying to figure out how to mount this license plate anywhere except the axle.

Yes, it is fairly common with custom motorcycles. 
I have never been hassled by any law enforcement officers, although a CHP motorcycle officer followed me off the freeway to tell me he liked my bike.  I also try not to do things that would call negative attention to me.

[riffman12]

Yes, it is fairly common with custom motorcycles. 
I have never been hassled by any law enforcement officers, although a CHP motorcycle officer followed me off the freeway to tell me he liked my bike.  I also try not to do things that would call negative attention to me.

Hm interesting. Maybe I'll start with it vertical and run it like this if I get hassled (excuse the HD)



It would just stick out a bit.

What did you do for lighting with the vertical plate?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I would mount it vertically if you place it on left side of the bike.  Otherwise, you will catch your leg on it when you push the bike. 

The right side of the bike will allow you to mount it either horizontal or vertical.  However, there is a chance you can catch another bike (when parking) or other objects with the edge of the plate horizontal.

I do not have an extra light source for my plate.  There are options.  You can go with a mini light similar to this:

[riffman12]

So I got this plate bracket today:

http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-caferacer-cafe-racer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-chassis-parts-gloss-black-steel-axle-mounted-license-plate-bracket-tc-bros-107-0006.html

It's very sturdy and seems to be made well, but I'm a tad concerned. My plan was to mount it to the axle as it was intended, but the metal is quite thick. 3/16" I believe. Am I ok just putting this at the end of my axle? It seems like quite a lot of spacing to add in there.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

It'll work fine if you mount the bracket vertically (you can attach it either way). 

I caught my leg a couple of times with a horizontally mounted plate while moving my bike, and that decided it for me.

[riffman12]

It'll work fine if you mount the bracket vertically (you can attach it either way). 

I caught my leg a couple of times with a horizontally mounted plate while moving my bike, and that decided it for me.

My worry was more the thickness of the metal adding to the spacing on the axle bolt. ie the nut will sit 1/4 inch further out

[riffman12]

ok so it looks like the plate bracket won't be an issue for tightening the axle bolt. As I button up the final touches here, a few questions. If anyone knows the answers to these, feel free to chime in. Much appreciated 

1) I've been waiting until the end to stake my wheel bearing retainers. I understand how to stake them (punch and a hammer), but I'm not sure how far I should be threading them in before staking. At the moment I hand tightened them, then tapped them a few times tighter with a flathead and a hammer. Is this an exact science or is it OK if it's just flush with the hub? How do I know if they're too tight?


2) I loosened the rear engine mount to make mounting the swingarm easier. Does anyone know the proper torque for that engine mount bolt?


3) From the factory, the rear sprocket had a flimsy guard / plate on it. Looks like this:



Is there any point to this? Can I ditch it?


4) My front sprocket is held on with the little plate and 2 bolts. How tight should these be? Do I need locktite on them?


5) I'm getting ready to paint my seat and side covers to match my factory painted tank. I think I will be ordering this paint in a spray can:

http://www.ct70paint.com/antares-red.html

Has anyone used that paint or that supplier before? Any suggestion on which spray can package I should get? Am I better just getting the paint can and buying my own primer/clear?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

The rear sprocket cover isn't a necessity.

[riffman12]

Thanks again for the help, Don. I'll owe you a beer once all this is through.

I'll strikethrough the answered questions so if anyone knows the answers to any of the others, that would be sweet.

Also quick update from the weekend: Ordered 2 26" Goodridge universal brake lines + fittings. Also bobbed the front fender.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

1) good and snug/tight. Make a cheap easy tool for the tightening. Don't be pounding on your nice pretty bike and make a dent! I got an aluminum flat bar from the hardware store, some bolts and nuts. Bolts sized to fit inside the holes on the retainer. Drill one hole near the end of the bar for the bolt. Install one nut on the bolt. Install the bolt through the hole and install the other nut and tighten both against the bar. Leave enough of the bolt protruding through past the last nut so that it just bottoms out in the retainer hole so that the bar sits flush. Repeat this for the opposite side hole on the retainer. Or you might want to drill near the center so that you can use both ends as handles for better control. You can also drill a third hole for the other sizes of retainers on the bike.   

2) tight but don't break anything

3) not necessary but how stock do you want it to look?

4) 6mm bolt torque is 6 - 8 lbs I believe. They WILL snap off if too much force is applied. Locktite never hurts as long as it's not red.

5) SWEET kits!!  I have never seen those. IMO get the kit with primer, base, color and clear. They all are selected to be compatible with each other. You MAY want to get 2 cans of color to practice how to lay it down to get the desired effect/color depth over the silver base coat. You can always practice on the rear sprocket plate.   

[riffman12]

1) good and snug/tight. Make a cheap easy tool for the tightening. Don't be pounding on your nice pretty bike and make a dent! I got an aluminum flat bar from the hardware store, some bolts and nuts. Bolts sized to fit inside the holes on the retainer. Drill one hole near the end of the bar for the bolt. Install one nut on the bolt. Install the bolt through the hole and install the other nut and tighten both against the bar. Leave enough of the bolt protruding through past the last nut so that it just bottoms out in the retainer hole so that the bar sits flush. Repeat this for the opposite side hole on the retainer. Or you might want to drill near the center so that you can use both ends as handles for better control. You can also drill a third hole for the other sizes of retainers on the bike.   

2) tight but don't break anything

3) not necessary but how stock do you want it to look?

4) 6mm bolt torque is 6 - 8 lbs I believe. They WILL snap off if too much force is applied. Locktite never hurts as long as it's not red.

5) SWEET kits!!  I have never seen those. IMO get the kit with primer, base, color and clear. They all are selected to be compatible with each other. You MAY want to get 2 cans of color to practice how to lay it down to get the desired effect/color depth over the silver base coat. You can always practice on the rear sprocket plate.

Thanks a lot Jerry

6-8 lbs seems so low on the sprocket bolts. I'm paranoid of things backing out haha. Perhaps i'll grab some blue locktite

As for the paint, I'd love to get all that stuff, but it gets preeeetty pricey. I was hoping to get away with one paint can + base coat and source my own primer and clear. Maybe I'll do the standard kit.

[riffman12]

tonight I think I got my rear wheel all ready to go and mounted. Punched the bearing retainers, tightened down all the sprocket and brake rotor bolts.









A few questions as this is my first time doing this and I really don't want to screw up my bearings and hub.

Firstly this is the process I used for the bearings and retainers. Maybe someone can just check my work and let me know that this sounds right?

1) tap the brake side bearing in all the way until it stops
2) insert the collar / spacer in the hub
3) tap the sprocket side bearing in until it is "snug" up against the collar. The collar should be touching both bearings, but still movable
4) tap the sprocket holder bearing all the way in until it stops, put the little spacer between the hub and the sprocket carrier, cush drive etc.
5) Thread the two bearing retainers in nice and tight, center punch the threads 4 times (see pics)

Let me know if that sounds correct. I'm paranoid after reading about a guy who's bearing came loose and bound up - caused an accident


Lastly, could you guys just double check the above pics and let me know if anything looks out of wack? I torqued down the brake and sprocket bolts nice and tight, used the factory locking washers on the sprocket.

Thanks a ton guys. One day I'll stop being paranoid

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Looks good. As long as the bearings spin and the collar is not tight you're set. You'll be done soon.

[riffman12]

Thanks Jerry. Wheels are mounted and spinning nicely. I'm waiting on my new front brake lines to arrive and trying to get the rest of the bike buttoned up.

I currently have a gallon of evapo-rust in the tank trying to get rid of the oxidation. Then I'm going to spray it with Sta Bil engine fogger to stop flash rusting.

Then it's time to hand over the tank and the parts I need painted for color matching. Hoping to get that done this week.


Indicators and headlight are all wired up and working - sort of. The blinkers blink slowly...sometimes. Does this sound like symptom of a bad flasher relay? Or is there just not enough resistance in the system since my brake light isn't wired up yet?


In the mean time, I was trying to clean my rear master cylinder, and I think it's beyond saving. So much gunk and corrosion in there - I'm going to have to replace it. Anyone have a '76 or '77 rear MC they want to sell me? Or have an idea of how to adapt a newer one without fabricating a custom bracket?

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

75 or 76 rear MC not 76/77! How bad is the bore?

Slow blinkers = low battery perhaps. Is the rest of the wiring working correctly? Do you have that one short connector wire hooked up correctly in the front junction box?

Be careful with the tank cleaner and don't let it expose/eat any pin holes.

[riffman12]

75 or 76 rear MC not 76/77! How bad is the bore?

Slow blinkers = low battery perhaps. Is the rest of the wiring working correctly? Do you have that one short connector wire hooked up correctly in the front junction box?

Be careful with the tank cleaner and don't let it expose/eat any pin holes.

Well my rear caliper is from a '77F (not the dual piston) so I think I might actually want the newer one as long as it still mounts to the bike correctly.

The tank cleaner is pretty mellow stuff. And I don't think my tank was rusty enough to worry about pin holes. It was really just surface oxidation that I wanted gone.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Yeah, it's the mounting you need to deal with. The 77/78 has the remote reservoir. If you can deal with that there are a #$%*load on EBay for Chinese cheap.

[seanbarney41]

70's GL1000 mc will bolt right up but you will have to figure out a custom brake line as the GL brakes use different fittings at both ends.  I used GL master cylinder on my f3 because they are 1/2 to 1/3 the price of F bike masters.  It looks like certain dohc rear masters may be made to work too.

[riffman12]

OK going to try and head to my local salvage yard today and see what MCs they have. Also have them shorten my chain.

I'm still scratching my head trying to figure out what to do for a tail light.

I was all set to order a flexible LED strip, but then I realized the only surface I have to mount it on is the top of the seat pan. It would be aiming up at like a 45 degree angle. Would that still be visible to cars behind me?

It would be great to have something slim under the back of the seat, but I'm worried the tire will hit it under compression. There really isn't much room there. I also have no idea where I would mount it as the closest mounting point it way up at my hoop:



I'm not holding off painting until I can figure this out - in case I end up having to drill something into the back of the seat.

Any ideas?