Author Topic: 1974 cb750 fun "Spruce Goose" (STEP 2: frame/suspension) (Read 28570 times)

mashfu · « **Reply #50 on:** November 30, 2015, 04:05:04 PM »

Like you said Ed, get it right the first time!

Anyone have any good experiences with a brass wire bit on a dremel? I picked up a few bits but they shoot out all the wire after a few minutes of use... Im really liking the finish of the case from just going over it with brass wire on the drill, but the hard to reach places need the dremel.

Davez134 · « **Reply #51 on:** November 30, 2015, 06:30:15 PM »

I too replaced them for peace of mind. Also, you're not "supposed to" reuse the rod bolts.

Those brass Dremel attachments will not last long, as you have noticed. If anyone in your area offers vapor blasting, look into it!

mashfu · « **Reply #52 on:** November 30, 2015, 07:17:34 PM »

Definitely changing the connecting rod bolts before i actually start the engine up, but they did fine to test clearances. I looked into vapour blasting and it still is an option, But i was taking some rust/dirt off of the engine and happened to stumble upon what brass wire did to the case. I really like the pattern i got just from the wire and some fine grit sand paper. Only thing is some parts are untouched due to the size and length of the bit.

mashfu · « **Reply #53 on:** November 30, 2015, 07:33:32 PM »

I know i am scratching the aluminum but i like it. Here are some pictures of the damage/awesomeness however you want to view it.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #54 on:** December 01, 2015, 12:31:23 AM »

If Vapor Blasting is an option, don't bother with the wire wheels. And yes, those nasty dremel brass buggers shed like crazy and get into places you don't want them getting into.

For the rod bolts, go with the later year ones that can be torqued up to a higher value, added peace of mind. The part numbers are somewhere in both mine or Dave's build threads, I'll post it if I find them. Or you could just get a set from Mike Rieck, he usually has some in stock.

mashfu · « **Reply #55 on:** December 01, 2015, 02:00:16 PM »

Ill have a go with some scotch brite for some reason i really dont want to vapour the case, the after pictures are too perfect. The cylinders and head are what i really want to get blasted, looked up places in LA and only found one, guess im giving them a call!

mashfu · « **Reply #56 on:** December 01, 2015, 03:40:26 PM »

Really like what the scotch brite pad does! Gonna go over all the scuffs from the wire wheel and pick up a bit for the dremel or compressor sometime this week. Also sent a message to Mike Rieck to see if he has a set of those connecting rod bolts.

Davez134 · « **Reply #57 on:** December 01, 2015, 05:47:03 PM »

Here is a link to a post in my thread with part number for bolts

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,139768.msg1617771.html#msg1617771

mashfu · « **Reply #58 on:** December 01, 2015, 05:59:06 PM »

Awesome, thanks for the link Dave! Was going to look through your guys threads while i was at work since there's nothing to do here sometimes at night... I'll look through everything and do some extra research too.

Davez134 · « **Reply #59 on:** December 02, 2015, 08:28:34 AM »

Nice. I've (allegedly) accomplished much research and purchasing while using the computer at work

mashfu · « **Reply #60 on:** December 02, 2015, 05:40:09 PM »

Looked into the bolts, bearings, and studs. The list gets longer and longer! But narrowing them down to the specific ones is also a great feeling.

Decided i might as well get to the stator cover that has been sitting in a box, it was in pretty horrible condition as it looked like the previous bike it was on was laid flat on its left side. Got the dremel and some 150 grit with some promising progress! I forgot to take a picture of it before i started, but the ebay photo will have to do... Sneaky seller drenching the cover with oil to hide the extent of the damage, but little does he know what its starting to finish up to!

mashfu · « **Reply #61 on:** December 08, 2015, 08:19:51 PM »

Past week, ive just been ordering parts and polishing parts. Finally had the time to take out the rest of the valve guides and got the points stud off... As i got overly anxious taking the stud off i thought vice grips would suffice to twisting it off. I was very wrong... Managed to slice my hand open and finally forced a 4.5mm socket onto the stud to get it off. I know i could have just double nut the sucker but i had already stripped the thread. Lesson learned on studs!

edwardmorris · « **Reply #62 on:** December 08, 2015, 08:27:00 PM »

Quote from: mashfu on December 08, 2015, 08:19:51 PM

Past week, ive just been ordering parts and polishing parts. Finally had the time to take out the rest of the valve guides and got the points stud off... As i got overly anxious taking the stud off i thought vice grips would suffice to twisting it off. I was very wrong... Managed to slice my hand open and finally forced a 4.5mm socket onto the stud to get it off. I know i could have just double nut the sucker but i had already stripped the thread. Lesson learned on studs!

Gloves dude! Delays due to injury suck. And I'd look for a replacement timing stud if you had to wrestle so much with it (even if the threads had survived).

mashfu · « **Reply #63 on:** December 08, 2015, 08:51:39 PM »

Ya calj, thought the vice grips were alright since they were able to help get the kickstart pin out... but nope i was failed! Not at all insensitive, i was more concerned about the crank as well.

Ed i just took my gloves off, just my luck. Haha unless i am able to use the timing stud with a 4.5mm socket stuck to the end of it, i agree i need a replacement.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #64 on:** December 08, 2015, 08:55:08 PM »

Be REALLY careful when installing the new one and setting up the final timing. My new one bent ever so slightly during setting static timing that it had a jitter on the 2-3 timing. Had to painfully set up the dial gauge and fix the runout before it came back in sync.

mashfu · « **Reply #65 on:** December 08, 2015, 09:01:37 PM »

Thanks for the heads up! When i get into the timing ill definitely move a little slower.

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #66 on:** December 09, 2015, 04:52:16 AM »

Nice project. Subscribed.

Davez134 · « **Reply #67 on:** December 09, 2015, 03:23:05 PM »

That ignition advance shaft is pretty hard to find. Yamiya has them (at least they did last year when I bought a few)

mashfu · « **Reply #68 on:** December 09, 2015, 08:41:25 PM »

Picked up one when i ordered all the case and rod bearings from yamiya! Next are ball bearings and other little trinkets!

edwardmorris · « **Reply #69 on:** December 09, 2015, 08:54:42 PM »

Quote from: mashfu on December 09, 2015, 08:41:25 PM

Picked up one when i ordered all the case and rod bearings from yamiya! Next are ball bearings and other little trinkets!

You need to get a hold of jtmarks and save some $$. Check PMs.

mashfu · « **Reply #70 on:** December 12, 2015, 04:40:15 PM »

Worked a bit on the primary sprocket today to get the needle bearings out. When driving the bearings out i managed to knick the shaft. My assumption is that these holes are to pull oil for the teansmission, but im not sure of the impact the knicks may have. Has anyone encountered problems resulting from something like this. It looks like the bearing will seat over the end, but just want to make sure if i can reuse the sprocket or not. They are fairly cheap so replacement is fine but i also wish to learn more.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #71 on:** December 12, 2015, 05:24:16 PM »

Quote from: mashfu on December 12, 2015, 04:40:15 PM

Worked a bit on the primary sprocket today to get the needle bearings out. When driving the bearings out i managed to knick the shaft. My assumption is that these holes are to pull oil for the teansmission, but im not sure of the impact the knicks may have. Has anyone encountered problems resulting from something like this. It looks like the bearing will seat over the end, but just want to make sure if i can reuse the sprocket or not. They are fairly cheap so replacement is fine but i also wish to learn more.

I can't see much in that particular pic, have any others? Also, why are you replacing them? I'm all for new bearings in the engine, but I didn't mess with the needle rollers until 1) I had SKF replacements on hand, 2) My local machinist agreed to change them for me. These tend to be fragile and most likely can't be removed intact. Installing new ones without a proper hyd-press is a bit too risky IMHO.

mashfu · « **Reply #72 on:** December 12, 2015, 06:28:07 PM »

Just took a few more pictures rotating the sprocket.
The reason i wanted to take them off is because while i removed the clutch basket, i saw wood fragments falling into the shaft. Since they fell in i assumed smaller pieces, inevitably, must have fallen in as well and possibly came to rest on the bearings. So just to be safe i felt taking off the needle bearings would be the right choice. I was planning on installing the bearings in the same manner as extracting bearings with the puller mounted on one sprocket side and a fitting to go over the races evenly.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #73 on:** December 12, 2015, 10:44:06 PM »

I could be wrong but I see some nicks on the wall where the needles roll. May not be a deal breaker, but I can't say for sure, maybe ping Hondaman and have him take a look at the pix? Also get a set of replacement SKFs, install once and forget. The bearing number is somewhere in my build thread for the SKF.

mashfu · « **Reply #74 on:** December 15, 2015, 11:26:03 AM »

Got the clutch last night, thought i might measure the plates and see if they are still usable. Measured smallest friction plate to be 3.51mm so i will be using them for at least a little while before changing them.
Also on the topic of the primary sprocket, Hondaman pointed out that damage would inevitably occur to the transmission from the small knicks so i will order a new assay.

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Author Topic: 1974 cb750 fun "Spruce Goose" (STEP 2: frame/suspension) (Read 28570 times)