Topic: 1973 CB350F "Modest Original" build

[MoMo]

I ran a glass bead hone through before shipping them ..Larry

[grcamna2]

Make sure to use the large seal/o-rings for the bottom of the cylinder sleeves.

[iiAtlas]

Make sure to use the large seal/o-rings for the bottom of the cylinder sleeves.

Thanks will keep that in mind!


In an effort to keep the ball rolling, I decided to go a different direction and work on something moderately mindless - prepping my rims for powder coat.  This meant disassembling the rim and de-lacing the spokes.



What a gorgeous day!  Perfect for kicking back and working on this wheel.



Step one: this axle nut.  So much for my relaxing day....



She was really locked on there.  Anyways after a bunch of free-all (like PB Blaster) and a couple of swears she made it out.



That axle looks pretty burnt.  Like it we're running without grease maybe.  Or just past-prime grease which has caked itself on there.  No worries, it feels straight and should clean up nice.  If not we'll go from there.  (note: it not crooked at the end, that part - the axle nut - is just resting on there).

Icky



The rest of the wheel assembly came out easy.





Everything under the covers looked pretty shiny...



I hadn't studied the diagrams or parts much as I was really trying to keep this a mindless project.  Everything is set aside and ready to examined with a keener eye at a later date 

Time to de-lace this rim.  Fun!



There's always one, right?



More or less painless.  You twist the nipple, the spoke comes out.  The more you get out, the easier they come out.  Satisfying!



All spokes look good but one which was welded to the nipple.  It snapped trying to remove it, I will try to track something down.  I'm planning on getting the spokes zinc plated and the rims powder coated black.  I have yet to find a good place to do either of those tasks so we'll see, but thats the plan at least!

The rims have some rust build up but I am betting it's just surface rust.  Will see how they clean up.







Front wheel: Done!  That was a fun day  hoping to get the rear in a similar place tomorrow.  Some work went on with one of the airheads today too.  Surprises when we dig into one of the front forks...check on that here if you're interested.

[grcamna2]

You might also look into cadmium plating the spokes;I got a set zinc plated and the threads started chipping off upon re-assembly causing a problem w/ stripping the nipples a bit.. I think cad. plating might bond better,it would at least be good to research that.

[iiAtlas]

You might also look into cadmium plating the spokes;I got a set zinc plated and the threads started chipping off upon re-assembly causing a problem w/ stripping the nipples a bit.. I think cad. plating might bond better,it would at least be good to research that.

Good to know!  Cadmium plating, will look into that.

[grcamna2]

You might also look into cadmium plating the spokes;I got a set zinc plated and the threads started chipping off upon re-assembly causing a problem w/ stripping the nipples a bit.. I think cad. plating might bond better,it would at least be good to research that.

Good to know!  Cadmium plating, will look into that.

When you research the plating try to find out which would stay solidly bonded to the spokes/threads the best.The zinc plating has a nice chrome-like look to it(if you do get them zinc plated be sure to find a correct size thread die to clean up the threads before assembly) and i think the cad. is a little more muted.

[grcamna2]

How is your cylinder block/liners coming along? it must be handy working in a bike shop 

[iiAtlas]

When you research the plating try to find out which would stay solidly bonded to the spokes/threads the best.The zinc plating has a nice chrome-like look to it(if you do get them zinc plated be sure to find a correct size thread die to clean up the threads before assembly) and i think the cad. is a little more muted.

A more muted look I think would go better with this bike.  Depends on how much "chrome" I have going on elsewhere.  I'll allow pricing to weigh into my decision somewhat.  Will keep you posted on what I find out!

How is your cylinder block/liners coming along? it must handy working in a bike shop 

On hold until I can take the block upstate.  Got a hard "no" on using the oven to remove the current set of sleeves...hah

[MoMo]

When you research the plating try to find out which would stay solidly bonded to the spokes/threads the best.The zinc plating has a nice chrome-like look to it(if you do get them zinc plated be sure to find a correct size thread die to clean up the threads before assembly) and i think the cad. is a little more muted.

Remember 350 for 15-20 ,minutes- sneak it in when no one is around. Never know, especially if the cylinder is clean

A more muted look I think would go better with this bike.  Depends on how much "chrome" I have going on elsewhere.  I'll allow pricing to weigh into my decision somewhat.  Will keep you posted on what I find out!

How is your cylinder block/liners coming along? it must handy working in a bike shop 

On hold until I can take the block upstate.  Got a hard "no" on using the oven to remove the current set of sleeves...hah

[calj737]

Use a bbq grill if the wife says "No". Its just heat and the jugs won't care where it comes from. Gas on low...

[iiAtlas]

Use a bbq grill if the wife says "No". Its just heat and the jugs won't care where it comes from. Gas on low...

Hah! Good idea...will do this.

[iiAtlas]

Forgot to mention - I am stuck on removing the wheel bearing retainer cap.



It looks like the wrong tool was used a few too many times.  The edges are rounded making it hard for my pin wrench to get a good grip.  I will try to make something with four pins/tabs to see if that grabs better.  Any tips?  I looked up the part number to see if the OEM tool or a replacement was around but no luck - at least not from my searching.

[calj737]

You first need to verify the stakes are drilled out. Then, copious amounts of heat will help release it. If your wrench won't grab it, carefully use a brass drift and punch it loose with a dead blow hammer.

Be careful it's not cross threaded upon reinstall.

[iiAtlas]

You first need to verify the stakes are drilled out. Then, copious amounts of heat will help release it. If your wrench won't grab it, carefully use a brass drift and punch it loose with a dead blow hammer.

Be careful it's not cross threaded upon reinstall.

Okay, sounds good to me.  Will get the torch and give that another shot.  What exactly do you mean by "verify the stakes are drilled out" ?  Thanks for the quick reply Cal!

[grcamna2]

You may consider building the wheel around that hub first before dealing with the bearings;it's Very difficult to remove that w/o a wheel to grab a hold of for leverage.

[iiAtlas]

You may consider building the wheel around that hub first before dealing with the bearings;it's Very difficult to remove that w/o a wheel to grab a hold of for leverage.

I knew I'd regret taking the wheel apart before disassembling the hub, but I decided it was worth it in the name of progress.  I guess my best bet is to complete the rim IE powder and plating, then rebuild and redo the bearings.

[grcamna2]

You could build the wheel and then tape-up the rim so it won't get scratched.

[calj737]

What exactly do you mean by "verify the stakes are drilled out" ?

See the small holes in the retainer? That's from the factory where they drove small "stakes" into the hub to lock the retainer in place. To remove the retainer, you must drill those out (there like a rivet) so the retainer spins freely. I can't tell whether yours are drilled or not. They are about 3/8" long from retainer outer edge to final bottom of the stake.

[iiAtlas]

What exactly do you mean by "verify the stakes are drilled out" ?

See the small holes in the retainer? That's from the factory where they drove small "stakes" into the hub to lock the retainer in place. To remove the retainer, you must drill those out (there like a rivet) so the retainer spins freely. I can't tell whether yours are drilled or not. They are about 3/8" long from retainer outer edge to final bottom of the stake.

Got it.  Will check that later tonight.  Upon reassembly do I need to re-stake the hub?  Do I need to do all this/should I be doing all this to replace the bearing?  Thanks guys!

[MoMo]

I think a 3/32 bit will work to drill out the stake, and as cal said drill down that distance. I restake mine by using a pointed punch.  Good luck, should be easier after drilling

[iiAtlas]

I think a 3/32 bit will work to drill out the stake, and as cal said drill down that distance. I restake mine by using a pointed punch.  Good luck, should be easier after drilling

3/32 - can do!

//

A quick note, you may notice a thread rename.  "Modest Original" is what I've come up with.  I feel this better describes what I'm getting at.  A relatively original bike with modest upgrades/changes.  Apart from that sweet airbox I got    Lightweight and minimal come to mind, but original will be the prevailing theme.  "Restomod" could be used I suppose, but I'll take "Modest Original" - let me know your thoughts.

[MoMo]

Everyone knows restomod(restoring close to stock with  some modifications).  The word modest describes someone who is moderate(mild but not over the top)

[iiAtlas]

Everyone knows restomod(restoring close to stock with  some modifications).  The word modest describes someone who is moderate(mild but not over the top)

I'll stick with modest, that's what I'm aiming for

[iiAtlas]

Rear wheel de-laced just about



Was helping a friend with an oil change on his airhead, but managed to mindlessly make progress on this.







Next up finish removing the spokes, remove the tire + tube, clean everything up and expect for wear.  How far apart should I take this brake?  And yes...I'm sure some of these next steps would be easier had I not removed the hub from the rim. 

[calj737]

use a cut-off wheel and slice that tire into pieces. Makes removal a lot easier. As for the brake/rear rebuild, go as far as you can to insure best results.