Topic: 1973 CB350F "Modest Original" build

[iiAtlas]

Atlas,
I wouldn't use Rustoleum primer if you're going to be using that particular VHT type of paint,I'm not sure it would be compatible and you might have issues w/ it;use VHT base coat/primer & top-coat all the way.I would look at the VHT top-coat cans and see what primer they recommend and use that. imo

For bare metal, an epoxy primer is best. It bonds chemically to the raw steel and has the protection you seek. Then cover with any appropriate paint you prefer.

I thought about this but couldn't find a suitable VHT base coat or top coat.  The VHT epoxy paint states "no primer necessary" - but I wanted a sandable primer so that I could create a smooth and even surface to spray on.  The only VHT offerings I could find are anodized base coat (wrong I'd presume), engine enamel primer (seems to suited towards the enamel line of paints), and prime coat (which looks the closest, but states "excellent foundation for any enamel, acrylic or synthetic lacquer" - no mention of epoxy).  I chose the rustoleam as I couldn't find an epoxy primer for the life of me!  Happy to swap it out if either of you have better luck.  Thanks for the quick replies.

[MoMo]

For bare metal, an epoxy primer is best. It bonds chemically to the raw steel and has the protection you seek. Then cover with any appropriate paint you prefer.

2K makes a primer like Cal is referring to.  Close to 20 a can ...Larry

[iiAtlas]

For bare metal, an epoxy primer is best. It bonds chemically to the raw steel and has the protection you seek. Then cover with any appropriate paint you prefer.

2K makes a primer like Cal is referring to.  Close to 20 a can ...Larry

Interesting, here are some other options I've found.  I believe #2 is what you're referring to.

1. Self-etching primer
2. Spraymaxx 2k epoxy primer (like you'd mentioned, would prefer #1 if they're comparable due to faster shipping)

[calj737]

Shop here for comparisons:
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/spray-max-2k-epoxy-rust-cure-primer-3680032-p-14526.aspx

[sbeckman7]

I made the same mistake of trying to remove my tires with a sawzall haha, ended up caving and paying the local bike shop $20 to remove them.

[iiAtlas]

Shop here for comparisons:
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/spray-max-2k-epoxy-rust-cure-primer-3680032-p-14526.aspx

Thanks Cal! Ordered x2.

I made the same mistake of trying to remove my tires with a sawzall haha, ended up caving and paying the local bike shop $20 to remove them.

Hah! Nice to see you around.  Sawzall is definitely NOT the tool of choice...live and learn   this just showed up today, wish me luck.  Have another of the 16" irons en route to help out.

[sbeckman7]

If you're tires are like mine were, you're gonna need luck 

[grcamna2]

If you're tires are like mine were, you're gonna need luck 

I know it will help if you get the wheel/tire good and warm w/ that hard,old rubber tire to make the rubber a bit more pliable to flex enough to get it over the rim.

[iiAtlas]

If you're tires are like mine were, you're gonna need luck 

I know it will help if you get the wheel/tire good and warm w/ that hard,old rubber tire to make the rubber a bit more pliable to flex enough to get it over the rim.

Amazingly....









I did it!  First time successfully using a tire iron - sweet!  Thanks for the recommendation grcamna, this style iron is definitely the easiest to use.  I used the large black handle to do a majority of the pulling, and the small silver ones to push the bead into a position where I could grab it, or to hold a bead I'd already lifted. 

My strategy as follows.  I first took the 16" iron, got a good hold on the bead using the hook and the curved head, then lifted it above the rim.  I then replaced the large iron with one of the smaller irons to hold the bead in place.  Next, back with the 16" iron, I would move about 3" away from where I now had the smaller bead holder.  In order to grab the bead in this new location, I would have to lower my previous "grab" partially.  So, with both irons in hand, I'd rock one down just below the rim - enough to relieve pressure for the longer iron to grab, but not so much that I lost hold.  Then I would raise both above the rim at the same time et voila - 3" of bead above the rim.  I would again replace the large iron with a smaller silver one, move 3" down, and attempt to repeat the same process.  It's not as easy as the above is maybe making it sound, but with some finagling it is definitely doable.

Now I have this...



I was inspecting my rear sprocket and came to the conclusion that it looked relatively worn.  Maybe a new one is in order?  I thought the distinct angling of the teeth in one direction was a sign of wear.  Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.







Thanks!

[calj737]

I was inspecting my rear sprocket and came to the conclusion that it looked extremely worn.

Fixed that for you.

[iiAtlas]

I was inspecting my rear sprocket and came to the conclusion that it looked extremely worn.

Fixed that for you.

Hah!  Thanks Cal...first chain-drive bike believe it or not, so good to now my guess was (somewhat) correct.  Thanks for the heads up.  Recommendations?  OEM unobtainium?

[grcamna2]

iiAtlas,
I'm glad to hear your success w/ the old tire removed;those old,hard rubber doughnuts can be stubborn.I took my tire levers to a friend who has a grinder(no elec. in my storage..) and polishing wheel and had him lightly grind off the sharp edges around the tire levers and then polish up the hardened steel flat 'tips' a bit so it makes the effort smoother and less chance of pinching a tube upon assembly.I use a good bit of Murphy's Tire Bead lube on the edges of the tire bead(mostly on tubeless tires but it helps w/ tube type/spoke tire installation also)before I install the tube and mount the tire.I've also used some talcum powder inside the tire before I install the tube which helps imo.

[iiAtlas]

iiAtlas,
I'm glad to hear your success w/ the old tire removed;those old,hard rubber doughnuts can be stubborn.I took my tire levers to a friend who has a grinder(no elec. in my storage..) and polishing wheel and had him lightly grind off the sharp edges around the tire levers and then polish up the hardened steel flat 'tips' a bit so it makes the effort smoother and less chance of pinching a tube upon assembly.I use a good bit of Murphy's Tire Bead lube on the edges of the tire bead(mostly on tubeless tires but it helps w/ tube type/spoke tire installation also)before I install the tube and mount the tire.I've also used some talcum powder inside the tire before I install the tube which helps imo.

Thanks!  Your tips helped.  Will give that a shot when I get there.

//

Thoughts on the below?

Rear sprocket (38)
Front sprocket (17)
Chain (530-100)

Is the 530-100 the right choice for this bike?  I know the 350F runs a 530 but I've read mixed things on chain length.  102, 96, I'm not sure.  How do these sprockets look?  If I order all from DCC or some other site I can save on shipping.  Happy to shop elsewhere if you all right these off as junk.  Thanks!

[grcamna2]

I think you'd be better w/ a 16 tooth front sprocket and that'll make better use of the rpm's  w/ your 5 speed transmission;w/ the 16 tooth fr. 38 tooth rear sprockets you can use the 100 link drive chain.

[iiAtlas]

I think you'd be better w/ a 16 tooth front sprocket and that'll make better use of the rpm's  w/ your 5 speed transmission;w/ the 16 tooth fr. 38 tooth rear sprockets you can use the 100 link drive chain.

Interesting, could you explain that more to me?  Wouldn't a lower front sprocket = higher RPM's at all speed?  From what I've been reading these are already buzzy things, reving to 10k and all.  Wouldn't more revs at all speeds = more buzz?  I'd like to be able to take this on the highway (55mph) for some stretches.  A smaller front sprocket would equal higher RPMs at cruising speed on the highway, correct?

Happy to oblige just trying to get some more info on the consequences/benefits of my actions.  Thanks for the input!

[grcamna2]

Yes, w/o going to deep about it  .
These smaller bore 4 cylinder short stroke engines thrive up in the higher rpms and were designed to be up there.When you have your ignition/timing all set-up nice and carbs. synched,cam chain adjusted it will run smooth up above 5500 rpm.When you are up on the interstate you'll only have to crack the throttle to pass someone rather than downshift one or two gears to 'get' the rpms up.Not so much w/ the 750 which is a bigger 'long stroke' engine.The 'short' version is,it hums along real nice when it's all set-up and adjusted right.I think it all depends on how long of a trip you'll be taking and how much you think you'll load up the bike too.
When someone wrote that they are "buzzy things revving to 10K and all".. That's what they were designed to do.The only reason I think folks don't like the high rpms for small engines is because they are so used-to bigger engines. 

[iiAtlas]

Yes, w/o going to deep about it  .
These smaller bore 4 cylinder short stroke engines thrive up in the higher rpms and were designed to be up there.When you have your ignition/timing all set-up nice and carbs. synched,cam chain adjusted it will run smooth up above 5500 rpm.When you are up on the interstate you'll only have to crack the throttle to pass someone rather than downshift one or two gears to 'get' the rpms up.Not so much w/ the 750 which is a bigger 'long stroke' engine.The 'short' version is,it hums along real nice when it's all set-up and adjusted right.I think it all depends on how long of a trip you'll be taking and how much you think you'll load up the bike too.
When someone wrote that they are "buzzy things revving to 10K and all".. That's what they were designed to do.The only reason I think folks don't like the high rpms for small engines is because they are so used-to bigger engines. 

Sa-weeet!  Thanks for the input, this clears a bunch up for me.  Smaller stroke should in theory mean a quicker time to rev.  16T front it is, I will order those parts tonight.  When I referred to them as "buzzy" I wasn't taking a jab at them.  Makes sense that there is a buzz at higher RPMs.  I am hoping (with the help of you all) I will be able to get this little bike setup right so that the buzz is of the hum variety...  Looking forward to that day! 

[sbeckman7]

There are 2 reasons I wanted a 350F: tiny pistons and 10k redline 

[kslrr]

There are 2 reasons I wanted a 350F: tiny pistons and 10k redline 

That's what I love about mine.  Many years ago I was on the I405 in Southern California going 100mph @ 10k rpm.  Smooth as a cruise missal.

[iiAtlas]

There are 2 reasons I wanted a 350F: tiny pistons and 10k redline 

That's what I love about mine.  Many years ago I was on the I405 in Southern California going 100mph @ 10k rpm.  Smooth as a cruise missal.

SWEET!! Haven't forgot about my build, don't you all worry been a little busy but expect some more updates soon!

[grcamna2]

keep it up 

[jamesv220820]

where are you located Atlas? all the apple boxes in your shots make me curious

[jamesv220820]

Also let me know if you need any parts. I have two two 30 gallon container of new and used unused parts

[iiAtlas]

keep it up 

Trying!  Will find some time to kick this back into gear this weekend 

where are you located Atlas? all the apple boxes in your shots make me curious

Also let me know if you need any parts. I have two two 30 gallon container of new and used unused parts

Hi James!  Sorry for the late reply for some reason SOHC/4 is no longer emailing me about replies to my thread...d'oh!  I guess I'll just have to check back more often   I appreciate the offer for the parts!  Should I find myself in a bind I will certainly reach out.  I live and work in New York.  My "shop" is actually a photo studio, hence the apple boxes.  Good eye! 

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

The notification feature for subscribed posts and PMs has been having issues. The forum recently did some changes -- I believe with the host -- and I think is trying to sort it out.