Author Topic: Jakal cb550 project  (Read 40005 times)

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Offline Darren Jakal

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #200 on: November 02, 2018, 08:56:18 AM »
Ok looks like I lost a post, so here it is again.

The rear hub off the roller had a badly worn flange drive, so I cleaned up the ID as Frank suggested and made a sleeve out of delrin.

I made it out of delrin because I had some and it's easy to mill. The design of the cush drive on the 550 seems questionable, and it appears that it needs to be taken apart and greased once in a while. I figured if this is the case then I'll make it out of delrin and check it after a few miles and see how it does (I'd have to regrease anyway). If it's badly worn I'll then make a sleeve out of something else like bronze.

cheers, dj

Offline Little_Phil

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #201 on: November 02, 2018, 03:41:50 PM »
Yea, my post disappeared as well.
But certainly a questionable design and keep us posted how this turn out. Is the o/d of the hub ok?

Offline Darren Jakal

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #202 on: November 03, 2018, 09:19:39 AM »
Sure Phil, will do !

dj

edit to add: yea Phil the hub OD was OK
« Last Edit: November 03, 2018, 12:00:57 PM by Darren Jakal »

Offline Darren Jakal

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #203 on: November 03, 2018, 02:32:57 PM »
The plan is to get the engine back in the old frame and start piecing it back together. I'll then dismantle the roller and start to clean up the frame (remove the ugly welded-on tabs) and use it for future development (the fairing, side panels, rear sets, etc).

I haven't spent much time on the original engine besides cleaning it up and checking it out (looks dam good with very little signs of use or mis-use) and figured I would do some of the maintenance items when it was out of the frame and totally accessible. I removed the spark plugs (found the right socket in my Dad's tools) and fogged the engine with Fogging Oil.

I adjusted the valves and happy I did. The last person working on the bike had adjusted the intake valve clearance to essentially 0.00. Took me a while to decide what piston was on TDC as the intake valve was never loose. Spun the engine (the proper way with engine turing same direction as wheels) and watched for the intake valve to come back up and then kept rotating until the timing marks lined up to determine TDC on all cylinders. Haven't had to adjust valves since my VW Bus days in the "80s.

I then adjusted the cam chain using a method I found searching the sight:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,369.msg315851.html#msg315851

and then started to check and adjust the Points Gap. Once again I'm happy to have picked up that roller as someone working on the bike managed to strip the 1-4 point gap adjustment screw hole. So I spent some time dismantling the points plate from the roller and rebuilding it with the parts from the original plate (the roller's points and advance are well worn) and the new condenser I picked up from 4into1. The new condensers have no stamp on them, were labelled as being for a CB400 and one is silver and the other yellow (more worried about no brand stamp then the package being labelled for CB400 or being different colours).

Anyway, that's it for now. Hope to have the engine in the frame before it snows again.

cheers, dj
« Last Edit: November 03, 2018, 09:07:27 PM by Darren Jakal »

Offline Darren Jakal

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #204 on: November 10, 2018, 03:39:10 PM »
The plan is to get the engine in the frame soon. I'm still working out the best body position and have started to investigate foot peg placement. I've heard about using CB400 pegs and also found this thread:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=40112.0

where bwaller talks about 600F3 foot pegs. These look great and I'll look into finding a set.

I had some left over aluminum and thought I would try some placements using the passenger foot pegs just to get some ideas. I'm also of thinking of getting some adjustable Tomaselli clip-ons that I think will get my hands where I want them to be.

I also noticed that the stock foot pegs are a different length (if these are the right pegs that is). Seems that the brake side is longer. Is this right?

I also took off the fairing harness I made. I'll put it on the roller frame in order to continue the fairing development while I put the original bike together for a spring start-up

Cheers dj

Offline Darren Jakal

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #205 on: November 16, 2018, 11:49:38 AM »
I never know if I will get a chance during the week to work on the bike (or parts of it), but yesterday I did get to mock up some new rear sets. This is another "cheap bastard" mod that using existing parts and free material.

I have been trying out body positions doing some reading and I have come to the conclusion that I want the pegs to be directly below the swing arm pivot, much like the CB400 position, and I also want to be able to use the stock kick-starter.

The plan is to modify (shorten) the existing brake lever and make it work with the stock kickstart. And make up a shift lever system like that found on the CB400.

Anyway, that's it for now. I hope to get the engine in the frame, but it's -10 in the seacan so we'll see.

cheers, dj

Offline Darren Jakal

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #206 on: November 26, 2018, 02:31:02 PM »
I've replaced the engine and started to put the bike back together. I want to get the bones of it in place to then make any mods I need to finish.

Well I didn't expect to have this exhaust system interfere with the side stand mount, but it does. I believe these are Jardines but I can't find any definitive marks on them to say one way or the other.

I did check to see if there would be interference with the front wheel in a hard front dive during braking and they are good (I think it was markreimer that was having issues with a 4 into 2).

I guess I'm going to cut the side stand off as these are the pipes I have and I have no budget for another set. At least I discovered a good way to use the centre stand with little effort. I also found a thread called Centre Stand Versus Side Stand

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=108889.0

where a number of members stated that they always use the centre stand and how great it is to have one if you need to do any repairs so I'm OK with cutting off more on this frame (plus I have the new 77 550 frame that is complete so if I ever want an original 550 I can use it).

Anyway, that's it for now,

dj
« Last Edit: November 26, 2018, 02:32:37 PM by Darren Jakal »

Offline 754

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #207 on: November 26, 2018, 04:49:22 PM »
There used to be an aluminum block they made for Kawis to relocate the stand. Bolts to what you got.
 Could that work?
 I suggested my buddy in Cowtown call you,he has z mill.
 Also I suggested that maybe he could split a sheet of 3003 with you. 
Trying to get him to see your metalwork and get Inspired..
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My next bike will be a ..ANFOB.....

It's All part of the ADVENTURE...

73 836cc.. Green, had it for 3 decades!!
Lost quite a few CB 750's along the way

Offline Darren Jakal

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #208 on: November 26, 2018, 09:03:05 PM »
Sounds good Frank. i've been busy with family and things, but I'm here for the long haul, so I hope to meet your friend at some point.

I'm not too worried about not having a side stand. I just don't like to needlessly cut thing off the frame.

But these pipes look too sweet to not do it.

cheers, dj

Offline Godffery

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #209 on: November 26, 2018, 10:27:43 PM »
 I'm guessing those pipes were made to fit the earlier frames (73-76 500/550) with the side-stand mounted forward.
I have a few of those in storage if you care to just swap it out.

Offline Darren Jakal

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #210 on: November 27, 2018, 10:03:50 AM »
Hi Godffery, thanks for the offer !

I assume you mean you have the side stand to swap out and not a complete frame.

Either, I will just cut it off for now and use the centre stand, but thanks again for the offer. Maybe think about it in the future.

cheers, dj
« Last Edit: February 27, 2019, 08:06:27 PM by Darren Jakal »

Offline 754

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #211 on: November 27, 2018, 11:08:08 AM »
You can cut it off and relocate it, but try to use an extra layer like stock.
Maker of the WELDLESS 750 Frame Kit
dodogas99@gmail.com
Kelowna B.C.       Canada

My next bike will be a ..ANFOB.....

It's All part of the ADVENTURE...

73 836cc.. Green, had it for 3 decades!!
Lost quite a few CB 750's along the way

Offline Darren Jakal

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #212 on: November 27, 2018, 03:26:43 PM »
Sounds good Frank ! Thanks, dj

Offline Darren Jakal

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #213 on: February 27, 2019, 08:03:04 PM »
I’m hoping to put it all together for spring and I have a few items I need to confirm, decide or discover. Such as the much loved Lubrication Items. I'll make this a record of what I'm discovering in my search to help me find it again again and to share with anyone with an interest.

Lube clutch parts?

From HondaMan in this thread: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=7260.0

“First word: GREASE! The clutch lifters on these bikes wear more because there is much more shifting going on. Grease those lifters!”

dr. destructo says:

“whats this talk of grease fittings for the clutch lifter?  I cant find a grease fitting anywhere, and my clymer manual never mentions anything about zerk fittings either.  If my bike has zerk fittings, I'd love the use them!”

TO this TwoTired responds:

“It's only the 500 that has the clutch actuator grease fitting.”

Ok, so for my 78 550k the oil in the engine /trans lubricates the clutch. Correct?

Points cam lube? Lube the advancer weights where they pivot?

From HondaMan: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=138514.0

“If the advancer weights are working OK, they probably don't need help. When I have them out, though (like engine rebuilds), I soak the whole thing in solvent to strip off all old goo, then dab a small bit of grease on the weight pivots and inside the points cam. High temp grease is good. There used to be "points grease" for the rubbing blocks, I am sad to say I used the last of mine in 2005, though. It is a yellow petroleum-based grease that is like wax, and has a great affinity for phenolic points feet. It soaks into the material and burnishes them in like glass.

MRieck suggests (same thread as adove): Mallory 26015 Distributor Grease

Also on this topic: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=149140.0

Lube the cables (clutch, speedo, tach, throttle) ?   

From bryanj:  http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=27530.0

“NO NEVER EVER on OEM cables maybe yes on aftermarket ones.
You are correct the originals are nylon lined outerers withrubber(ish) coated wire and lube swells both till they bind. This INCLUDES WD 40 or similar as ALL the air arsole canes are Butane propelled and it the petroleum bits that cause the problem”

TwoTired (same thread as above):

I have several bikes that I switch between.  If a cable on one seems more draggy than the others, it gets a bath in dri-slide.  There is some interaction with wet weather, too.  Bikes ridden in the rain seem to need a more frequent dose.  I'd estimate every 2-3 years they get serviced.  But, if a bike was left out in the elements, I expect it would need more frequent attention.  I should note that our weather patterns are quite mild.  We average 14.4 inches of rain per year.  And we can go 6 months with no rain at all.  Then there is the bike wash routine as a factor.

To keep any rust at bay I sometimes add a drop or three of Dillon Blue Magic, which I got from Dillon Precision.  I think it is a synthetic oil with "teflium" in it, what ever that is.  It says Flouropolymer on the label. Sadly, it is no longer in their catalog.  But, they now sell this which looks interesting.  I might try it if my current 1oz, bottle ever runs out.

http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/24848/catid/16/Snake_Oil_0_5_oz__Bottle

Lube the caliper assembly?

Good stuff from TwoTired again: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,56544.0.html

This thread has gotten very confused.  Lets' review.
There are four products needed to restore a caliper.
1. Brake cleaner
2. Brake parts assembly lube for the caliper seal only.
3. Dow corning High vacuum grease.
4. Brake fluid

Each has it own specific application and needs for the task to be performed.

#1 is used to get everything clean.  (given the confusion, it had to be said)
#2 is used ONLY on the seal and must be compatible with #4, as some of it will invade the brake fluid chamber.
#3 is NOT used on the seal, as that would put silicone inside the brake fluid chamber.  This is a bad thing as the compounds are incompatible.  It is used behind the brake pads and a thin coat is used on the parts of the calipers and piston that are exposed to the elements and subject to water ingression.  The Dow Grease will not mix with ANYTHING.  It is a simple barrier with the very important property that it will NOT melt when the parts get hot and then run/creep into the brake pad friction material and provide lubrication between pad and disk rotor.
#4 is what makes the hydraulic part of the brake function. (I hope that part is clear.)

If anyone has anything to add or clarify on any of these lubrication matters I’d love to hear it ! I'll update as need be.

Cheers, dj

edit to add: anti-seize: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=117474.0
« Last Edit: February 28, 2019, 08:18:31 AM by Darren Jakal »

Offline Darren Jakal

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #214 on: March 27, 2019, 09:46:01 AM »
I'm going over the electrical components and getting ready to reassemble the whole electrical system once it gets warm enough to manipulate 40 year old wires without them cracking. The roller I bought has been a great help as I was having some issues with various wires being abused (the clutch switch on my bike was all f'ed up and some of the wires from the left hand switch were somehow severed, as well as the oil sensor wire).

Anyway, I recently received a new headlamp with attached wire harness (great as these things were missing from my bike). However, if I am correct and the blue and white wire from the left hand switch (high/low beam) connect to the bulb, then this wire harness is opposite to what I need (see pics or wire end connectors).

So, the questions are:

what's the easiest way to get the bulb hooked up. Find or make a new harness? or are there connectors that allow two male ends to be plugged together? others suggestions?

And what wire connects with what on the bulb? As you can see in the pics the headlamp came with wires attached, but they are blue, red and black, not white, blue and green (according to the wiring diagram that I found in the technical section and what I see com in out of my left hand switch).

Cheers, dj

edit to add what I found from 4into1:
Black is ground, blue should be Hi-Beam, and red is low beam. You can test this out by trying the wires on a battery.

Thank You
« Last Edit: March 28, 2019, 09:26:57 AM by Darren Jakal »

Offline SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #215 on: March 27, 2019, 09:51:58 AM »
Sometimes moving/bending old wire can cause an internal break causing an intermittent connection.  I replaced 3 old harnesses with new wiring after having these issues with 40-year-old wires.
1975 CB550K1 "Blue" Stockish Restomod (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=135005.0)
1975 CB550F1 frame/CB650 engine hybrid "The Hot Mess" (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,150220.0.html)
2008 Triumph Thruxton (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,190956.0.html)
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Offline Darren Jakal

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #216 on: March 27, 2019, 10:54:57 AM »
Yea Fan,

This old wire is pretty stiff, but becomes better when it's warmer. I try to be gentle and hope.

I might have to go your route at some time, but for now I'm only replacing missing things and stuff that is obviously damaged. We'll see how the electrical holds up.

cheers, dj

Offline Darren Jakal

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #217 on: September 03, 2019, 12:10:21 PM »
I've been trying to research some things about the cb550 wiring changes over time (mine is a 1978) and it has been hard with the site down, so thanks to all that make this site run !

Anyway I'm just going to start putting things here so I can find them again.

First thing I needed to clear up was that I have single filament front signal lights whereas the 1978 550 has 2 filament lights as the front are used as running lights. Thanks to members here I think I should be able to simple plug in the lights to the solid Light Blue and Orange wires and forget about the Blue/White and Orange/White wires.

My Winker Buzzer seems to have been removed so I'll need to figure out if there will be any issues there (the Blue/Brown wires).

I have an empty black wire (double) that come out of the plug that connects to the Right Side Controls (Run/Off Switch and Start Button labeled Start/Stop Push Start in the photo) that I don't know what it connects to. See picture attached.

And here is some good info I found from a member.


From “bollingball” here: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=106617.0

mono Don't know if you have seen this but it gives a good general idea of what Honda was trying to do with the colors. The black wires are geerally switched power. Power starts out red at the battery goes through a sw. like the key or other sw. then turns black.
Big thanks to Jonesy

Reply #9 on: February 06, 2007, 05:19:06 am »More from Jonesy:

(I put this together after a few questions about the wiring in these bikes. Some suggested this be put in the FAQ. Hope this is helpful.)

Here’s a general wire guide for the 70’s Honda SOHC/4’s. Some of this may be different for the 650 (I’m mostly familiar with the 350, 400, 500/550 and 750) or bikes factory-equipped with electronic ignition. Consult your manual for specifics.

Main Color/Tracer Stripe Color- Description (Approximate Path, if Applicable)

All Circuits
Red- Constant Hot From Battery (Battery Terminal-Main Fuse-Key Switch)
Black- Switched Power Supply Buss (Throughout motorcycle)
Green- Ground (Throughout motorcycle)

Lighting
Brown- Tail Light Power (Main Switch-Tail Light)
Brown/White- Instrumentation Backlighting (Lighting Switch-Instruments)
Orange- Left Turn Signals (Turn Signal Switch-Front/Rear Signals)
Orange/White- Left Front Marker (Light Switch-Marker Lamp)
Light Blue- Right Turn Signals (Turn Signal Switch-Front/Rear Signals)
Light Blue/White- Right Front Marker (Light Switch-Marker Lamp)
Gray- Pulsing Power for Signals (Flasher Relay-Turn Signal Switch)
Blue- High Beam Power (Hi/Lo Switch-Headlamp/Indicator Lamp)
White- Low Beam Power (Hi/Lo Switch-Headlamp)
Brown/Red- Fused Headlamp Power (Fuse Box-Hi/Lo Switch)

Ignition
Black/White- Coil Power Supply (Cutoff Switch-Coils)
Yellow- Breaker Signal, Cylinders 2&3 (Right Points-2&3 Coil)
Blue- Breaker Signal, Cylinders 1&4 (Left Points-1&4 Coil)

Starting/Safety/Monitoring
Blue/Red- Oil Pressure Signal (Oil Pressure Switch-Indicator Lamp)
Red/Green- Neutral Switch Signal (Neutral Switch-Indicator Lamp-Safety Unit)
Green/Red- Clutch Switch (Safety Unit-Clutch Switch-Starter Button)
Green/White- Horn (Horn Button-Horn)
Yellow/Red- Solenoid Signal (Starter Button-Solenoid/Safety Unit)
Green/Yellow- Brake Light Power (Front Brake Switch/Rear Brake Switch-Brake Light)
Brown/Blue- Turn Signal Pickup (Turn Signal Beeper-Turn Signal Switch)

Charging (3-Phase External Excitation Systems)
Yellow- Stator Coil Output (Stator-Rectifier)
White- Field Coil Supply (Field Coil-Voltage Regulator)
Red/White- Positive Rectifier Output (Rectifier-Battery)

**NOTE- I pieced this together from referring to wiring diagrams I have. This is meant as a general guide and will vary between models/years. If anyone spots an error or omission, please post it and I will correct it. Thanks**

A few more thoughts that may help people:

Another learning I found useful in troubleshooting various circuits was knowing which sides of the circuits are impacted by switches, etc. Typically, most circuits on these bikes can be thought of as having 2 "sides"- a "hot" side (power from the main buss activated by the key switch), and a ground side. For example, the lighting on these bikes (head, tail, gauge, running and turn) is all controlled by a switch (or switches) on the hot side of the circuit, while the ground side of the circuit is always complete.

Basic Circuits controlled (switched) on the HOT side of the circuit:
-Headlight (Both Hi and Lo Beam)
-Tail Light
-Brake Light
-Turn Signals
-Marker Lamps (if equipped)
-Starter Motor (heavy-gage wiring switched by the solenoid)
(Note: while they don't break circuits under normal circumstances, the fuse(s) are all located on the hot sides of their respective circuits.)

Basic Circuits controlled on the GROUND side:
-Neutral Light
-Oil Pressure Light
-Starter Solenoid
-Horn
-Starter Safety Unit (As best I can tell, all sensors are on the ground side)

Special Case: Ignition
Under normal operation, the ignition coils are activated by the breaker points, which are on the ground side of the coil circuits, as the coils are fed constant battery power while the points interrupt the ground side. However, the emergency cutoff switch is located on the hot side of the circuit, coming into play by cutting the battery power to the coils.

And, That Age-Old Question...
...Does it matter which order I connect the yellow wires coming from the alternator to the rectifier? No. There is alternating current being carried by these wires and the diodes in the rectifier take care of sorting out the positive charges from the negative ones.

Ok that's it and one pic of the bike mocked up as of now.

Cheers Darren

another thread that may be of use:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=177074.0
« Last Edit: September 03, 2019, 03:09:49 PM by Darren Jakal »

Offline Darren Jakal

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #218 on: September 11, 2019, 03:37:37 PM »
I'm trying to get this project finished and have been researching a variety of subjects, but dam Photobucket sure has #$%*ed up a lot of great threads. For a while I was wondering how so many people can take so many #$%*ty photos until I realized that Photobucket is intentionally blurring them. Makes it a bit frustrating!

Anyway, thanks to everyone for providing such great info. Only wish the photos were still good.

Cheers, dj

Offline Darren Jakal

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #219 on: May 03, 2020, 04:49:59 PM »
Wow been a while.

I'd like to get this project on the road and so I have just finished assembling the last of the main electrical components. Of course the "refurbished" generator parts I bought (and polished) didn't get put on because the oil sender unit wire was broken. I played around with reconfiguring the parts I have from the roller I bought last year but finally just put the old stuff from the roller on as what I really want to do, before I go any further, is check the oil pressure.

I’ve not done anything to the engine except clean it up and check it out. When I had the engine out I took off the oil pan and cleaned up the screen and checked the hose etc. It looked pristine, so it’s don’t fix it if it isn’t broken. But how do I know that it’s not broken if I have never had it running.

So, I removed the spark plugs and outside tappet covers, hooked up a battery and the oil pressure light and neutral lights came on. I thought I would spin the motor quickly to see if the oil light would go off, but after probably 4 or 5 seconds the light still didn't go out and I chickened out and stopped. I looked in the tappet cover holes and could not really tell if any oil was present. I tried spinning it once more for a few more seconds and said enough. I know not to get too excited and #$%* something up.

I replaced the tappet covers, fogged the engine again and replaced the spark plugs (I fear things getting down the holes). I checked the oil level and it is a bit low so I will open all the tappet covers and spay some oil in the top end before I try spinning the motor again.

I did some searching and found some good info on this subject but if I could ask any questions they would be:

Will the oil light go out by spinning the engine with the starter motor? How long should it take?

I assume you could do damage to an engine by spinning it with the starter (no spark plugs), but how long would it take if you liberally pre-oil the top end?

Is it worth pulling the chain cover and pulling the oil sender unit and spinning the motor to see if oil comes out of the hole? Oil coming out this hole still doesn’t mean that oil is getting to the top end though, right?

What kind of pressure gauge will fit into the oil sender unit hole? and is this something worth doing?

I will say that the head had quite a bit of engine oil gunk from an obvious leak somewhere so I take that as a good sign that 1) oil has been getting to the top end and 2) that no one has fixed the leak (and used bad sealers that clog oil orifices) as they would have cleaned up the engine at least a little bit when they did this.

I still have many little knit picky things to finish like electrical work and some fabrication to finish the lights. Need to finish the rear sets, make a license plate holder and find some #$%*ing lubricant for the brake piston seal (where do you find this stuff???). Oh, and do the final cleaning of the gas tank. Get to it.

Anyway, thanks for dropping by ! Always look forward to seeing what people are up to on this site and what a great resource for fixing up these old bikes.

cheers, dj

 




Offline Darren Jakal

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #220 on: May 13, 2020, 03:43:52 PM »
Raybestos Brakes Assembly Fluid

McKay Brake Caliper Assembly Lube

Castrol Red Rubber Grease

I would like to get the front brake finished but I’ll be dammed if l can find any assembly lube for lubing the piston seal that isn’t a huge tub for $60 dollars. I need like a dab.

Anybody have a Canadian source for any of the above in reasonable sizes?

Cheers, dj
« Last Edit: May 13, 2020, 03:46:21 PM by Darren Jakal »

Offline Darren Jakal

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #221 on: July 09, 2020, 03:53:14 PM »
Still at it.

Side panel cover models. These are styrene and are just for fitment and form development. I am still working it, but right now it fits and has enough volume to provide for the electrical triangle components. I don't have a cover for my fuse box so I'll need to make something.

Now I need to finish a license plate holder (with light) and do a final tank clean. Still looking for some greases and such.

later, dj

Offline RAFster122s

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #222 on: July 09, 2020, 04:01:43 PM »
You can use brake fluid to lube the seal if you cannot find the rubber grease or brake assembly fluid. Do you have NAPA parts stores near you. They stock and can get many uncommon parts and supplies.
David- back in the desert SW!

Offline Darren Jakal

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #223 on: July 09, 2020, 04:09:24 PM »
Hey thanks RAF. There are NAPA stores around I will give that a go. Yea, I will eventually just use brake fluid if I can't get the right stuff. I am trying to do it as "right" the first time as I can.

Cheers, dj

Offline 754

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Re: Jakal cb550 project
« Reply #224 on: July 09, 2020, 05:04:36 PM »
Check with my buddy in Calgary.
 Will pm his number,  he may have something or know where to find.
Maker of the WELDLESS 750 Frame Kit
dodogas99@gmail.com
Kelowna B.C.       Canada

My next bike will be a ..ANFOB.....

It's All part of the ADVENTURE...

73 836cc.. Green, had it for 3 decades!!
Lost quite a few CB 750's along the way