Author Topic: Rip Van Winkle; Waking up a K4 (Read 10255 times)

Beergineer · « **Reply #25 on:** December 17, 2016, 11:06:29 AM »

Some progress today! I received the reduction gear and shaft yesterday.

I used the original gear on the new shaft, so I have a starter motor reduction gear if anybody wants it. It is currently a cat toy.

While I was installing the stator cover I had my latest 'not so proud of myself' moment. I was putting the final hand torque on the last new allen bolt and I felt the threads let go. Sure enough:

Fortunately I got really lucky. I was able to run a tap into the existing threads and cut a few more into the case. One of the old JIS screws was just a couple of threads longer than the allen bolt and I was able to use it instead. Crisis (and helicoil) averted.

So the next step is going to be getting the kickstand back on the frame, put the engine back in, and get the wheels with existing tires on so I've got a roller. From there I'll mount handlebars and do the brakes/suspension, and then start getting the chassis and electrical sorted out.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #26 on:** December 17, 2016, 11:10:16 AM »

She's slowly coming together.

Beergineer · « **Reply #27 on:** December 19, 2016, 06:53:50 PM »

More progress today:

Would have gone further but I looked at the engine bracket bolts and decided they should be replaced. Nice part about getting the engine in the frame is that it frees up a work surface for laying stuff out.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #28 on:** December 19, 2016, 08:16:50 PM »

You're getting it that much closer for the first start-up in the Spring w/ a full 'Wake-up' of that bike when you can do some RIPPIN' around with it;what exhaust you plan on running ?

Beergineer · « **Reply #29 on:** December 20, 2016, 03:45:07 AM »

I have a 4-2 that I'll be putting on, but eventually I'll be looking for a 4-1.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #30 on:** December 20, 2016, 12:11:00 PM »

Quote from: Beergineer on December 19, 2016, 06:53:50 PM

More progress today:

Would have gone further but I looked at the engine bracket bolts and decided they should be replaced. Nice part about getting the engine in the frame is that it frees up a work surface for laying stuff out.

Interesting suspension rig. Just out of curiosity, since you have just the frame and forks together, why not lay the engine on its side and the frame around it, bolt in the motor and then upright the frame -- instead of having to lift or suspend the engine into the frame?

Beergineer · « **Reply #31 on:** December 20, 2016, 01:36:09 PM »

I removed the engine using the 'on its side' method, and thought that was kind of a pain. So I figured I'd try the 'hang the engine and scoot the frame over it' method. This wasn't any easier, and is probably easier with the frame on wheels. I do think it will prove easier to bolt everything up though. Live and learn. And by learn I mean the next bike will have a smaller engine.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #32 on:** December 20, 2016, 01:53:55 PM »

Quote from: Beergineer on December 20, 2016, 01:36:09 PM

I removed the engine using the 'on its side' method, and thought that was kind of a pain. So I figured I'd try the 'hang the engine and scoot the frame over it' method. This wasn't any easier, and is probably easier with the frame on wheels. I do think it will prove easier to bolt everything up though. Live and learn. And by learn I mean the next bike will have a smaller engine.

Did you take Hondaman's advice and grind down the inner ridge of the lower front engine mounts?

Beergineer · « **Reply #33 on:** December 21, 2016, 05:29:05 AM »

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on December 20, 2016, 01:53:55 PM

Quote from: Beergineer on December 20, 2016, 01:36:09 PM
I removed the engine using the 'on its side' method, and thought that was kind of a pain. So I figured I'd try the 'hang the engine and scoot the frame over it' method. This wasn't any easier, and is probably easier with the frame on wheels. I do think it will prove easier to bolt everything up though. Live and learn. And by learn I mean the next bike will have a smaller engine.

Did you take Hondaman's advice and grind down the inner ridge of the lower front engine mounts?

Nope, it's a little too late for any frame modifications. I powdercoated all the parts last winter, so it is what it is. The only Grinding that will happen is to clear spots for the grounding straps.

Beergineer · « **Reply #34 on:** December 23, 2016, 08:49:32 AM »

Engine is bolted in the frame. Somehow I feel like half the work is done now, even though it is time for all the detail stuff to happen. I've been stalling on ordering fresh tires and tubes, so the tentative to do list for next week is as follows:
1. Assemble the battery box
2. Properly install swing arm
3. True wheels
4. Put on shift, kick start, and brake pedals
6. Read the electrical section of the shop manual

Beergineer · « **Reply #35 on:** December 28, 2016, 02:12:06 PM »

Some Progress today! Trued the wheels, I was able to get both of them <0.020". The front wheel has more corrosion than I'd like, but it seems structurally sound. That makes it a good candidate for sandblast and powdercoat at some point in the future.

As luck would have it when I got home with trued wheels there was a Tire and tubes waiting for me!

Unfortunately that's the front tire, which needs a new rim strip. I'll try and pick one up locally tomorrow.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #36 on:** December 28, 2016, 09:00:27 PM »

Never hurts to have a spare tube. If you don't need it, then store it in a cool dark place for best life.

Beergineer · « **Reply #37 on:** December 31, 2016, 08:09:51 AM »

Thanks for jinxing me Raf. Rear tire went on fine, front was a struggle and I popped the inner tube between the bead and the rim. Now I have 2 front tubes on their way, just in case. Next up is swing arm and rear brake installation followed by handlebar, fork tube, and front brakes. Once that is sorted out I'll move on the electrical side of things.

Beergineer · « **Reply #38 on:** January 02, 2017, 06:12:28 PM »

Today I got the brake hardware and cush drive transferred to the 17" wheel. Then mounted it to the swingarm and installed that to the frame. The goal for tomorrow evening is to get the brake pedal all hooked up, then move onto the front brake.

Sorry about the saw horse being in the way, but it is starting to look like a motorcycle:

RAFster122s · « **Reply #39 on:** January 03, 2017, 06:03:00 AM »

Sorry, never imagined to have done so by mentioning having a spare. When I ride more than 40 miles from home I like to take a spare. Especially for trips. Never know when it might be needed but, it is something you don't want to ever have to need.
David

Beergineer · « **Reply #40 on:** January 07, 2017, 07:09:32 PM »

My fresh front tubes (I bought a spare to ensure I didn't pop a second one; I'll grab a spare rear tube one riding season is closer) arrived yesterday along with new stainless nuts, washers, and lock washers in both M6 and M8. So I got to work re-assembling the front wheel slapped it in the fork tubes. So I officially have a roller:

I couldn't resist setting the seat and a tank it. Tomorrow I'll get to work on the front brake and handle bar.

Phoenix · « **Reply #41 on:** January 08, 2017, 11:19:24 AM »

While you still have a somewhat bare bike, you might consider pulling the oil pan off and checking oil pump screen for debris. While it's open, you could get a pump rebuild kit from Elan. It's an easy, cheap fix. I still appreciate your "if it ain't broke don't fix it". It can bite you in the ass like it did me many times.

Beergineer · « **Reply #42 on:** January 08, 2017, 12:51:14 PM »

I've been considering pulling the oil pump for inspection, mostly because the forks will be coming off again in the near future and I have the gaskets for it.

In other news I solved the missing reduction gear shaft mystery. It must have fallen right out the cover when I pulled it, rolled off the back of the bench (uphill) and fell into the murky darkness of my oil drain pan. I really need to get a screen to put over top of that thing. So I've got a spare reduction gear and support shaft if anybody needs it.

Beergineer · « **Reply #43 on:** January 14, 2017, 02:07:27 PM »

Some more forward progress. I've got the handlebars on, sorted out a rear wheel truing issue that turned out to be an improperly seated bead, front brake assembled, swing arm properly torqued, and main foot pegs assembled and mounted.

With a little bit of luck I'll slap the chain and chain guard on tomorrow and get the fenders cleaned up and mounted. After that it is battery and electrical season.

Beergineer · « **Reply #44 on:** January 23, 2017, 06:50:49 PM »

I got around to mounting the front brake caliper and got the the master cylinder pumping fluid again. In the process I discovered that both the project bike and the parts bike had the same aftermarket handlebars, which means that my shiny new Slingshot Cycles brake lines won't reach the cylinder. So the hunt is on for stock handlebars and control cables. I might run with the tall bars for a while just to get the bike on the road.

Beergineer · « **Reply #45 on:** January 27, 2017, 04:59:12 PM »

Member QSide hooked me up with some stock K3 handlbars, so they're on the bike now to test fit the brake line lengths (spoiler alert: they fit). Which brings up 2 questions:
1. Does the upper brake line route through the hole in the gauge mounting plate, or somewhere else?
2. Does the metal brake line from the caliper route inside or outside of the forks?

I'm thinking about replacing the steel line with some nickel-copper brake line I have left over from rebuilding my Ranger, or if I can get a poly coated steel line with the right fittings on it I'll use that.

Over the week I installed the chain, chain guard (tighter fit than I expected), and the rear inner fender.

Stev-o · « **Reply #46 on:** January 27, 2017, 06:22:54 PM »

Hey....

1. No. Mine routes around gauge and then down
2. Inside

Beergineer · « **Reply #47 on:** January 27, 2017, 07:07:20 PM »

Thanks Steve-O. I'll be sure to fix that when I pull the bars off to run the switch wires.

Beergineer · « **Reply #48 on:** January 29, 2017, 05:41:35 PM »

Swapped the controls and wires from the old bars to the new ones. Found out the PO was a gifted electrician:

Let's just say I'm glad I bought a new main wiring harness, just in case.

Beergineer · « **Reply #49 on:** February 07, 2017, 09:51:52 AM »

I've been trucking along and here she sits:

I found that the left hand mirror mounting location was all stripped out, which explains why my rack of parts only contained 3 mirrors. Luckily I was able to swap out the lower half of the control without pulling the wires out of the handle bar. I'm kind of glad I did because I found and re-soldered one of the wires to the Hi-Beam switch.

I realized that I did have the right length tach and speedo cables, so I only needed to buy new clutch and throttle cables (which I did). I've been sorting out and cleaning up the various chassis bits and installing them as I go. This weekend should see most of the wiring come together, and I might clean out the tank and be ready to try a start up in the next two weeks.

News:

Author Topic: Rip Van Winkle; Waking up a K4 (Read 10255 times)