Topic: 76 CB550 Cafe build

[tshrey]

Surprised I'm now in the situation I am, I generally do not like old things.  Current bike is the FZ1 you see in the background and I couldn't be happier with it.  After a lot of upgrades I finally ran into a unique problem - it is too fast to be a hooligan on.  A quick blast of the throttle and I'm doing 100 mph.  Started looking around for something lighter, but everything I liked was a lot of money that I just couldn't see spending on a second bike.  My daughter is now 13 and I'm teaching her to drive, she asked when I was going to teach her to ride a motorcycle   No way she can learn on the Fizz, she can barely touch the ground and even with the weight savings I've done it is still a 440 lb bike.  Web surfing eventually took me to Cognito Moto and I started looking for a project.

Found this bike for $200 locally from an 18 year old kid to wanted to do the cafe thing to it but realized he was in over his head.  Bike ran but barely.  Main thing for me was the sound of the compression when I kicked it over.



Had it stripped down the first night.




Top end came off easy enough.  At this point I wasn't sure what I was going to do with the motor so I just set out to optimize what was there.  I port matched the intakes with the head and opened the head up a little; couldn't believe just how badly the intake was misaligned to the head.

Before:



After:



Finally just said screw it and decided to tear everything apart.  I have a blast cabinet, and outdoor soda blasting system, a powdercoating oven and a TIG welder so I just dove in.

Inside of the motor was the cleanest thing I had ever seen considering it was 40 years old...



Pulled all the guts out, carefully labeling everything and taking pictures along the way.  Cases, jugs and head were all treated to a lovely spa day in a kerosene bath.



After cleaning, soda blasting and cleaning again:



Going to do a hot rod black texture powder on the valve cover and engine cases and gloss on the jugs and heads



At this stage was my first mistake, I decided to have a professional do the engine cases (mainly because I couldn't easily get the head studs out and with them in place it wouldn't fit in my oven).



Very unhappy with the job on the cases, the coating was waayyy too thick in my opinion and had bubbles all over it from the aluminum outgassing during the bake.  I put brake fluid around each of the head studs and let it sit for four days, hitting each stud with a hammer periodically to work the fluid down in.  Studs came out with a double nutting and a little heat on the undersid of the case.  Cooked the case halves at 350 for four hours like a fine turkey to let them outgas as much as possible, then powder coated them myself.  Extremely happy with the result.

[tshrey]

Simultaneous with all of this I started thinking about how I wanted the bike to look.  Settled on 2007 GSXR 600 front forks, upper and lower triple and clipons.  All this was accumulated over the course of 6 weeks while scouring ebay looking for deals.



I wanted everything that goes on this bike to be at least as light as the stock stuff it replaces.  Got a little worried when I bolted the front end together and picked up the GSXR stuff, but I weighed both and the modern stuff is still 2 lbs lighter than stock.

Going to go with a single front brake given that my target weight for this thing is under 350 lbs.  Detabbing and working on rearset placement.



Doing what I can to make this cheap, but the front wheel on this is going to be expensive.  CognitoMoto front hub:



Ordered an 18" front rim and the matching spokes from there as well, but they aren't here yet.

Today I plastigauged the crank and everything is good; I'll be starting engine reassembly tonight after I read back through the 9 other threads on here about engine assembly I bookmarked

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Great start.  It looks like you have some great skills and a few tools to boot. 

Finally, a weigh-in of a modern GSXR front versus stock.  Do you have the overall weights, as well.  Another option some consider is a 1998-2004 Yamaha R6 (conventional front).  I am certain the R6 front weighs even less.

Looking forward to your progress!

[bill440cars]

      I'm wanting to keep up with this one as well, but it looks like there should be photos, but I don't see any? Is it just my computer?

[tshrey]

Motor reassembly is on hold a bit, I tapped the primary shaft bearing back into the case and mounted the shaft with the chain.  There is a single small mark on the bottom case from the chain; I have about 3/8" of slack.  Figured while I'm in here is the time to do it right.  Ordered a new primary chain, new cam chain and new rubber bumpers for the cush drive in the primary shaft.  The rubber bumpers are insanely priced, more than $6 each and you need 8 of them!  So $200 later I will be anxiously awaiting a package from David Silver.

While I wait it decided it is time to get serious about the frame.  My daughter has exceptionally good taste for her age and is into artwork and graphic design.  We photoshopped a cafe based on a cb550 and played around with colors.  The tank, seat and rear hump will be painted a deep burgundy metallic.  Probably do that on the rearset mounts as well for a splash of color down low.  Everything else will be powdercoated.  The engine will be murdered out along with the dash, decided on a middle of the road silver metallic for the frame (prismatic powders stealth charcoal).  Started working tonight to get the bushings out of the swingarm and changed my powder gun over to the charcoal, figured I'd give the top of the motor a splash of color and decided to just stack all the parts up to see how they look...




Originally thought I would do the clutch and sprocket covers gloss to aid in keeping things clean, but I like the texture powder so much I might strip them and recoat in texture.  Thoughts?

Also going to blatantly copy Cal's idea and use ARP 12pt bolts everywhere, waiting on a second order from Allen's Fasteners.
 

[calj737]

Did you also use ARP intake/exhaust studs? Looks like the intakes are... I found the exhaust studs are a tad short when using the MotoGP exhaust. So depending upon which exhaust you use, you may need to be prepared to shorten the exhaust flange so it sits onto the stud enough to allow the nut to squish the collar against the gasket.

While the ARPs are expensive and overkill (their strength rated very high) they are certainly jewelry quality against a freshly coated motor. But as a labor of love, these bikes can't be about cost, they must be about enriching our soul to rescue them after 40 years. 

[RAFster122s]

At around 400+ for a set of arp fasteners for a motor I think it is indeed nice jewelry.

[tshrey]

I didn't get the studs because I wasn't sure what length you used.  There isn't anything that matches the 6x40mm OEM stud, the nearest thing is a 6x32 and I wondered if it would be long enough.  Funny thing is I went to put a few fasteners in place to hold the thing together and realized all my sockets are 6 pt, I don't even have a tool to tighten them!

I figured I saved enough with the ebay front end (upper and lower triple, straight forks, calipers and clipons for less than $300) that I could splurge on the fasteners.  Although that was admittedly before I realized the front wheel is going to cost me almost $800 and I'm doing all the powdercoating and lacing/truing (the latter of which I have never done before and have no idea what I'm doing).

[calj737]

At around 400+ for a set of arp fasteners for a motor I think it is indeed nice jewelry.

Thats not even all the fasteners I used. Double that ticket  But, it is a bike for my college boy that he is heavily invested in designing and fabricating so in the long run, whats another $1,000 over 25 years?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

 
I wish the wrenches were as widely available and used as conventional metric hex hardware.

[calj737]

12 point sockets are. It doesn't require anything special really. Most 1/4" sets are 12pt already. And lots of 3/8 drive sets are too. I used 1/4" sockets for all my covers anyway due to the low torque required.

[RAFster122s]

A&P mechanics use 12 point sockets as a matter of practice.  If interested I can give you the spec sheet for the tool list a nearby school that teaches students to obtain their A&P certificates.
David

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I looked closer at my sockets.  Yep, they are compatible.

[riverfever]

Impressive start.

I remember when mine looked like that after unloading it off the truck.

[SF]

Great start! Post up some pics


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[palepainter]

Motor reassembly is on hold a bit, I tapped the primary shaft bearing back into the case and mounted the shaft with the chain.  There is a single small mark on the bottom case from the chain; I have about 3/8" of slack.  Figured while I'm in here is the time to do it right.  Ordered a new primary chain, new cam chain and new rubber bumpers for the cush drive in the primary shaft.  The rubber bumpers are insanely priced, more than $6 each and you need 8 of them!  So $200 later I will be anxiously awaiting a package from David Silver.

While I wait it decided it is time to get serious about the frame.  My daughter has exceptionally good taste for her age and is into artwork and graphic design.  We photoshopped a cafe based on a cb550 and played around with colors.  The tank, seat and rear hump will be painted a deep burgundy metallic.  Probably do that on the rearset mounts as well for a splash of color down low.  Everything else will be powdercoated.  The engine will be murdered out along with the dash, decided on a middle of the road silver metallic for the frame (prismatic powders stealth charcoal).  Started working tonight to get the bushings out of the swingarm and changed my powder gun over to the charcoal, figured I'd give the top of the motor a splash of color and decided to just stack all the parts up to see how they look...




Originally thought I would do the clutch and sprocket covers gloss to aid in keeping things clean, but I like the texture powder so much I might strip them and recoat in texture.  Thoughts?

Also going to blatantly copy Cal's idea and use ARP 12pt bolts everywhere, waiting on a second order from Allen's Fasteners.

I personally like the different surface treatments.  It will give you a lot of flexibility on choices for the rest of the build.

[tshrey]

Since I have the frame powdercoat color loaded in the gun I want to get the swingarm done.  Went after the bushings using the flattened washer method.  Pounded right out that way using a 2 lb mini sledge.  I think some PO replaced them already - they are steel, not bronze, but they weren't just cylinders, they had a lip on them (I've heard people call them 'tophat' bushings).
 
Heading out soon to take the paint off with coal slag.

[bill440cars]

        Very nice work there, especially on the engine cases. I'm following, for the possibility that I get to where I can build a 550, I have. 

[tshrey]

Removed the grease from inside the swingarm barrel and then took a look at the bushings I pounded out.  I think I know why they came out so easily...



They're plastic!  And my barrel doesn't have any of the grease channels along the ends that I see on other's bike when they remove them.  I was going to go with dimecitycycles needle bearings for the swingarm but I might just save myself $100 and stick with these since there is basically no wear on them.  But I do like me some fine needle bearings.  Decisions...

[RAFster122s]

I have an F swing arm with new needlebearings installed.  Was installed on the bike but the bike being a K I decided not to go that route.  It is powder coated gloss black and has a scrape on one of the rear fork arms .  It had the Z1 bearing kit.  Decided to stick with the K swing arm as the F arm is a little longer and has chromed steel chain guard, I have one but it is scratched up and would better be served by powder coating or a better condition.  A PO was too aggressive with wrong grade steel wool.
Asking $100 & shipping for the swingarm.  Comes with axle, adjusters and axle wheel collar spacers

I like what you have done with the bike.  This is going to be for your daughter or you?
A 350 twin could be a good starter for her or stock 550.  Did you  change the tensioner & guide?  Cam chain?
A 650 cam gives a bit more to the perf without changing anything else but your tach to either 650 ot 750 mechanical or an electronic tach.

Hondaman offers bronze bushing service on swingarms for the sohc4s if you want to farm it out but your plastic are likely to last a while...just keep tabs on them after riding again.  Sometimes things start letting go after being pressed back into service after sitting a long time.  As you are probably are aware.

$800 is fairly inexpensive on a modern fork replacement, you got some good deals.  R6 replacement I am estimating at about 1200 all done.

Hit Nils up for a set of Ikon shocks and mention the sohc4 for the group discount.

You do very nice powder work.  What kind of setup do you use?  You must be experienced to achieve such good results.

David

[tshrey]

For me, I'll teach her to ride on it eventually since it will be so low to the ground. 

You misunderstood on the front end cost - $800 doesn't include the fork.  That is just for the freaking wheel (CognitoMoto hub, stainless spokes and an Excel rim).  All told I got the forks, triples, all balls bearings and clipons for about $350 thanks to ebay and a bit of luck.

Powder work is just Eastwood's dual voltage gun and an old oven.  Like anyone will tell you, 100% of it is the prep work.  I always clean with Eastwood Pre as best as I can, throw it in the oven until the part reaches 200 then pull it out and wipe it down again while burning yourself as little as possible.  Less is more with powder, hit the nooks and crannies first.  If you start on the easy stuff and then have to lay the powder in thick to get to crevices you will have too much everywhere else.

[RAFster122s]

The 1200 I estimated on the R6 conversion is with reusing the stock rim and doesn't include fabricating adapting a fender.  So, either way you are looking at upwards of $1500+ if you do a lot of work yourself. But, by the time you build it the way you want your restomod is in the neighborhood of a low cost new bike, presuming motor and other mods that complement the need or desire for a better front end and braking system.  Definitely have stated value or appraised value insurance coverage.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Definitely have stated value or appraised value insurance coverage.

Sound advice!

[tshrey]

Definitely have stated value or appraised value insurance coverage.

Sound advice!

Wow.  I hadn't even thought about insurance.

'Hello Progressive? I just totalled my bike and would like to be reimbursed.  Which bike?  The 1976 Honda.'  Two days later a check comes for $400...

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Pretty much.