Author Topic: K3 Project has now started. (Read 37332 times)

MauiK3 · « **Reply #250 on:** October 07, 2017, 07:08:23 PM »

Ok thank you.
Now I'm struggling with another problem (all day).
I can't seem to get power down to the starter safety switch black. If I jumper power to the connector the solenoid works fine but if I just hook everything up at the headlight area, no power to the safety switch, solenoid or rear brake light circuit. I've been looking at all the blacks up there and they are all hooked up but I must be doing something wrong.
Very frustrated right now, have to put it away and start over later.
Thank you in advance for any help
Steve

MauiK3 · « **Reply #251 on:** October 08, 2017, 09:34:01 AM »

It's Sunday, a new day, yesterday is behind me.
Today I will start over, take all the headlight area connectors apart and put it all back together to see if I can find my error.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #252 on:** October 08, 2017, 02:18:47 PM »

I took apart everything at the headlight, re-assembled according to Hondaman's discussion about the hybrid US/Euro Emgo harness for the K3, everything worked EXCEPT the start circuit and the rear stop light. I grounded the neutral switch to emulate the engine being installed. Still no luck. I started checking power around the red connector to the starter motor safety unit (SMSU)with my test light and as I wiggled the the wiring, by accident, I noticed the test light flickering.
Turns out that the black power wire in the red connector to the SMSU was intermittent from one side of the connector to the other. I was unable to remove the connector to re-crimp it but I was able to press on the connections with a flat bladed screwdriver. It now works. The start solenoid works (with the neutral grounded) and the rear stop light works.
My brain is bruised.
If it ever acts up I will look for the tools and parts to build those connectors and re-make it.
I wish my OEM harness wasn't so stiff and old or I would have used it.
Aloha all, onward and upward

HondaMan · « **Reply #253 on:** October 08, 2017, 08:04:46 PM »

Quote from: MauiK3 on October 08, 2017, 02:18:47 PM

I took apart everything at the headlight, re-assembled according to Hondaman's discussion about the hybrid US/Euro Emgo harness for the K3, everything worked EXCEPT the start circuit and the rear stop light. I grounded the neutral switch to emulate the engine being installed. Still no luck. I started checking power around the red connector to the starter motor safety unit (SMSU)with my test light and as I wiggled the the wiring, by accident, I noticed the test light flickering.
Turns out that the black power wire in the red connector to the SMSU was intermittent from one side of the connector to the other. I was unable to remove the connector to re-crimp it but I was able to press on the connections with a flat bladed screwdriver. It now works. The start solenoid works (with the neutral grounded) and the rear stop light works.
My brain is bruised.
If it ever acts up I will look for the tools and parts to build those connectors and re-make it.
I wish my OEM harness wasn't so stiff and old or I would have used it.
Aloha all, onward and upward

You could always do like I do, and shunt-and-remove the safety module. Most real bikers don't need it, but the DOT was not convinced...

MauiK3 · « **Reply #254 on:** October 09, 2017, 10:08:16 AM »

Hondaman
i may do just that to avoid future problems with it.
Also, my new SEV Marchal headlight has the Euro "running light" in it. I will wire that to a switched power in the headlight and make it a daytime running light. It's a small bulb but it makes quite a bit of light with the great reflector.
Keyswitch saver circuit works great by the way!

MauiK3 · « **Reply #255 on:** October 09, 2017, 08:52:15 PM »

Got the head back from Hondaman. A thing of beauty I say!
Getting ready to paint it and move on to assembly.
I feel better now that my electrics appear to be working correctly.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #256 on:** October 09, 2017, 08:54:36 PM »

Still need to put some screws in the exhaust port holes to keep paint out of the threads.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #257 on:** October 09, 2017, 09:05:50 PM »

Does anyone have a suggestion for a plating shop? I have a few things I need to get re-chromed.

Stev-o · « **Reply #258 on:** October 09, 2017, 09:22:03 PM »

Head looks good! Good chrome shops are getting harder to find. Here...

http://classiccomponents.com/company/about

MauiK3 · « **Reply #259 on:** October 12, 2017, 08:18:48 PM »

Made some progress today.
The head is on, valve train assembled. I obsessed a bit on getting the cam right, have not done one in several years, the last cam I did was a Dohc Kia SUV.
Reviewed Hackaweek a few times. His section on the cam is pretty good.
I also straightened the points shaft, found it to be 0.008" out. Got it to about 0.001". Hopefully it will idle better.
I'll be prepping for the engine install soon as time allows.

HondaMan · « **Reply #260 on:** October 13, 2017, 11:50:41 AM »

Cam looks correct!
The 0.001" shaft will help several things, you'll like it.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #261 on:** October 14, 2017, 09:46:08 PM »

Getting closer to going back into the frame. Tried to static time just to be close, ran into the problem of having enough adjustment with the replacement points assembly. It's a TEC from Yamiya. Have to review all the posts about this. I will compare the old/new to try and figure out the source of the problem. I know I read that the points themselves can be shorter. Have to do some measuring.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #262 on:** October 16, 2017, 04:57:50 PM »

I'm getting ready to put the engine back in the frame and I was looking things over and made a discovery I'm glad I caught.
First, let me say that here on Maui, if it can corrode, it will, so you have to take steps to slow it down.
I was looking at the NOS rear fender that I found and noticed small rust worms working out from underneath the doubler plates on the underside. The fender has never been on a bike, I took it out of the original package. What to do? I cleaned it up as best I could without harming what plating is under there, put some Ospho on the offending areas, very sparingly, let it dry, and clear coated it. As time goes by I will need to keep an eye on this.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #263 on:** October 20, 2017, 10:40:37 AM »

Got the oil pump primed and installed, oil pan is back on.
The engine is ready for reinstalling as soon as I gather some help lift to the "lump".
I'm using the lower the frame on to the engine method. I will make a pillow of moving blankets and other soft stuff to keep the weight off the points cover. I must admit some nervousness, so much has been done. Getting closer!

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #264 on:** October 20, 2017, 11:56:29 AM »

That engine looks perfect...really! I would suggest blocking up the engine with wood blocking to protect the points cover

MauiK3 · « **Reply #265 on:** October 20, 2017, 02:25:22 PM »

Thank you
I am wrapping some 2x4 pieces with some soft stuff to block it.
I am anxious to see how it runs. Hondaman was a key part of this project, he took care of the head, valves and cylinders.
Also, of course, his book, his continual advice and input were invaluable.
Steve

algophobe · « **Reply #266 on:** October 20, 2017, 04:12:39 PM »

What kind of paint did you use for the crank case and head? Looks great

MauiK3 · « **Reply #267 on:** October 20, 2017, 07:15:23 PM »

It's POR15 detail paint, I got it at the local automotive paint supply store. Not cheap, about $24 a can. Goes on very easily and levels out. Not prone to drips or runs. I didn't put a very thick coat on. The frame was media blasted and I painted it with POR15 black with a top coat of their chassis black top coat. That also went on very well.
Made some progress today.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #268 on:** October 20, 2017, 07:17:18 PM »

Had to recruit some extra muscle for the lifting.
Got the first color on it.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #269 on:** October 20, 2017, 07:18:30 PM »

Correction
The POR 15 engine paint color is called cast aluminum from their Detail Paint line.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #270 on:** October 20, 2017, 07:21:35 PM »

Believe it or not that's candy blue-green. It sure does not photograph well.

algophobe · « **Reply #271 on:** October 20, 2017, 08:36:19 PM »

Quote from: MauiK3 on October 20, 2017, 07:18:30 PM

Correction
The POR 15 engine paint color is called cast aluminum from their Detail Paint line.

is it a rattle can or component? you said think coat but it looks really good. I used rattle can VHT, having misgivings about durability though.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #272 on:** October 20, 2017, 10:15:08 PM »

The color stuff (candy blue green) is all Yamiya. The base coat black on the frame is brush on after many cleaning steps, the chassis black top coat is rattle can. The cast aluminum on the engine is rattle can. Here in Hawaii they call it sho-sho can.
I cleaned with simple green, then zylene and then acetone, lots of ventilation and a mask.

MauiK3 · « **Reply #273 on:** October 21, 2017, 07:55:39 PM »

More progress today. Got the engine all snugged up in the frame, mounted the oil tank and lines. Put the battery back in. Once again, the start circuit does not work, have to tackle that later.
Filled the tank with oil and cranked using the starter wire to the battery +.
Got oil pressure in short order, could see it in the valve train, whew.
On to sorting out the solenoid problem. I thought I was done with wiring mysteries.
All in all, not a bad day.

budman · « **Reply #274 on:** October 22, 2017, 05:16:43 AM »

Looks great.

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Author Topic: K3 Project has now started. (Read 37332 times)