Topic: 1977 Cb550k - tappet hits cover

[magnum56]

Small pits and marks are not as critical as any obvious scoring, roughness you can feel, or any concaveness worn in the rocker face riding the cam lobe.

[TwoTired]

Any contact surface issues you can feel with your fingernail are bad news for longevity.  But, imperfections are a relative thing. Could get anything from 10,000 miles to 50,000 miles less useful life.
Could use some cam lube on less than perfect surfaces.

If the old gasket is clean and feels soft with a thumbnail gouge, then reuse it.

Cheers,

[Can550]

Few more question before I reach home and check for gaskets reuse ability.

What else should I look for when top cover is off ? I removed oil and cleaned to see if any debris were there, will also clean gasket bond


When rotating crank to take the cam off, I noticed pressure leak sound (in addition to usual compression sound. It sounds like if oil is being sucked or sprayed in tiny holes). Is it possible oil leaking on to valves?

I recall some member (a while ago) suggesting to tap valves with a block of wood to get rid of carbon build and perhaps better seating.

I'm also having difficulty taking the 4 pins out of cover (pins that hold rocker arms rod).



Appreciate


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Can550]

Managed to pull out four bolts holding rocker rods. Had to use a small hammer and a punch. Carefully with minimal force came out.

Rocker rods have some scoring where rocker arms sit. Should I polish them with 1000 grit paper ( thinking of mounting them in drill machine and grab with sandpaper in my hand) or bad idea ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Can550]

Loctite blue or nothing on two bolts holding sprocket on camshaft?

Cam lube recommended or that's only if new parts are used


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[DaveBarbier]

Blue loctite on the bolts. Use lube.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Can550]

I read about Lucas Assembly lube being popular or preferred.

What is the difference between assembly lube and cam lube ?
Appreciate


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[firebane]

Same thing. Just lubricates mechanical parts since oil may not make up top.

[RAFster122s]

Do not go crazy with sandpaper.  Some good picture are recommended.  You will wat to measure the wear on the rocker shafts if you can. If it is measurable and significant you are going to need to replace shaft(s) affected.

That is some pretty nasty destruction you have there.  Lots of owners will make a wall of PO nightmares they encounter from bikes they buy.

Hope you get this sorted out properly.

David

[Can550]

Thanks David
I was going to light handed with 1000 grit and perhaps finish it with mothers metal polish to a smoother finish.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RAFster122s]

I think I would go higher on the grit to 2000...
If you feel the damage with your fingernail it may be a problem.  I do not remember if oil pressure is dependent upon the rocker arm and rocker shaft clearances.
It really does not take much to change the diameter significantly for precision fits.

Good luck!

Thanks David
I was going to light handed with 1000 grit and perhaps finish it with mothers metal polish to a smoother finish.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[strynboen]

dont use sandpaper..this parts is hardnenet..but only at the kontakt areias..and oftern thin hardnent..so any destruktion of the surfase vill give vay inn to the softer inner part..and vill Wear fast up...go for new or good used parts..i faund some spare for my build..its vas not costy..somone vho have thangerd to a nev style valvecover probely have a lot of parts..as they not vear..only the aluminium parts vear aut

[magnum56]

I think I would go higher on the grit to 2000...
If you feel the damage with your fingernail it may be a problem.  I do not remember if oil pressure is dependent upon the rocker arm and rocker shaft clearances.
It really does not take much to change the diameter significantly for precision fits.

Good luck!

Thanks David
I was going to light handed with 1000 grit and perhaps finish it with mothers metal polish to a smoother finish.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oil pressure would not be affected by either the shafts or rockers.

As strynboen mentioned, don't worry about sanding the surfaces.  If they are suspect enough to cause you concern ... replace them. 

[Can550]

Managed to put the cam, rockers, cam cover back on, adjusted timing, valves and ignition timing.


Fired her up. So far no leak at valve cover gasket

Bought myself a Morgan Carbtune pro and hooked it up. Was out of sync, brought it close enough sounds better but I hear ticking sound. Which goes away or fades away at higher RPMs.

What should I check?

Other concerns, I'm not confident on cam chain tensioner adjustment and mixture screws. Seeking help


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BomberMann650]

Check your tappet clearances one more time.
Check exhaust collar torque.
Check intake runners for leaks.
Verify timing with strobo light.
Verify carb sync one more time.  Morgan carb tune should help you get that just perfect.

[Can550]

Re did valve clearance
Timing
Cam chain tensioner adjusted
Re synced carbs 99%
Fired good
Took a round and all of sudden no power in dash or starter or turn signals. Battery is good

What should I check ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BomberMann650]

The Fuse 

[Bankerdanny]

Re did valve clearance
Timing
Cam chain tensioner adjusted
Re synced carbs 99%
Fired good
Took a round and all of sudden no power in dash or starter or turn signals. Battery is good

What should I check ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is your headlight on? The 77-78 550K's have a known issue with the ignition switch that can result in sudden complete electrical failure. Fortunately it is easy to fix. I had to do it to mine several years ago.

[Can550]

I had removed headlight to save battery on idle while doing carbs.
None of the lights in dash work, no turn signal no horn nothing.

I see that PO had taken wires out of main fuse and put a separate fuse of 30Amps. Initially by twisting it around, lights came up but now nothing.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RAFster122s]

The wire from the 30A fuse holder goes to a wire that looks fuzzy or melted. What is the story there?  If melted insulation you are going to have to trace it to see where the power shorted and the influence of the short is and how many other wires were damaged in the harness.

[Can550]

It's not melted, it's fabric braided sleeve on it. I too took that as first suspect.

Two things were wrong. 1 Butt connector was the culprit here and connector on ignition switch wasn't locked in place so came off.

Temporarily put a new Butt connector and locked in ignition connector, back to life.

Now I have a question, why PO would remove wires from factory 15Amp fuse holder and install an extension 30Amp fuse. ?

I would like to remove this extension fuse and solder wires back to factory fuse holder

Any thoughts??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Stev-o]

Now I have a question, why PO would remove wires from factory 15Amp fuse holder and install an extension 30Amp fuse. ?

Because he is a idiot

[TwoTired]

The stock fuse holder can develop problems over time. (What machine doesn't?)
1- the fuse clips can develop spring fatigue.  Poor contact pressure yeilds higher resistance. Heating the fuse and causing it to melt.
2- the fuse clips develop a clear oxidation that is resistive. Current through resistance generates heat, melting the fuse.
The stock 15 amp fuse runs normally at 2/3 of rating.  This warms the fuse. You can feel this with your thumb.  Add resistance 1&2 above and it will blister your thumb.

Adding electrical loads like high watt head lights and dyna ignitions, can push a warm fuse into hot territory.  Bigger fuses mask the true problem, but allow the bike to be driven.  Many prefer bandaids to root cause correction.

All my bikes still have the stock fuse block.  If you polish the clips every 5-10 years, and make sure the clips grasp the fuse so hard you need a tool to lever the fuse out, it works fine. 

Cheers,

[Can550]

Many thanks TwoTired
Always pleasure reading your responses, very academic.

I removed extension fuse and solder the wires back to stock fuse box (though not great soldering though )


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TwoTired]

Too hot to solder on the plastic fuse block, melts the plastic.
The fuse holders have to "float" in the housing in order to self align with the fuse.  This is necessary for maximum contact area and low resistance connection to the fuse ends.

Cheers,