You know a custom tail light that spans the area from the rear of the shocks and wraps completely around and had integrated taillight (red) and amber lenses that would cover the frame would be cool. Getting a large sheet of reflector plastic in Red and a clear Amber sheet would be cool. Then you back light with Eagle Eye 1W led array to have wrap around Amber turn signals beneath that surfboard seat (sorry not a brat fan and I am refraining from calling it a brat seat) with seamless transition to the red reflectorized tail light lense. The only problem is the eagle eye LEDs are long and encapsulated with epoxy (I think) in their aluminum heat sink and threaded body. So, you would fit them pointing outward on the sides tucked up under the seat with some pointed down to light the area that covers the frame. Paint the frame or internal backing/ reflector white or a reflective solve or a highly polished aluminum sheet that has been sprayed with a clear urethane or polyurethane to maintain that gloss...or carefully use aluminum foil. If you make the assembly of the lense and body water and air tight then the aluminum should not corrode or oxidize into white rust or develop dark spots. The Eagle Eyes are very bright in Amber and pretty bright in Red...red being a more difficult color to have high intensity and broad dispersion. They both are blinding my bright and with reflectorized plastic would direct the LED's light into a broader area. With six leds as Running light and an additional six or more serving as the brake light you would have a super bright tail and brake light. A wooden form for your lense and a heat gun is all you need to reshape most of the transparent reflector material. Removing part of the diamond shaped peaks on the back may be needed to form tighter bends than the diamond material would allow. You can block sand the smooth side if you get a spot or two that needs leveled starting with 800 grit and working your way to 1000, 1500, and 2000 followed by a good plastic polish. Plastic polishing cannot be done on a buffer unless you can reduce the buffer speed to around 150 rpm at max. Most buffers are either 1500 or 3500/3600 rpm. 1500 is actually the best speed for a metal buffer. Plastic can be done with a variable speed drill and buffing wheel if you can lock the speed low and you keep the buff wheel moving across the area being buffed, not lingering in one place or you can melt the plastic and ruin your hard work. Buffing by hand will not have this issue.
Your seams between amber and red have to be sanded to eliminate the line. The clear plastic modeling glue in a bottle will melt the plastic to form a nice solid connection between the amber and red and you make your sheet oversized before bending and trim to shape after you have bent it and flattened any waves or ripples you get. I am hesitant to suggest you build a frame to capture the plastic and heat it to where it starts to sag as the diamond pattern will most likely be lost or distorted. You would need to heat the solid sheet more. Guess you could make it all from reflectorized plastic that the back has the diamond pattern the difracts the light and the other side is smooth plastic.
