Author Topic: Generator rotor puller? (Read 1834 times)

Cormz02 · « **on:** December 29, 2017, 12:50:43 PM »

Hey guys. I am trying to get into the lower end of the engine on my cb550 project and the Manuel calls for a generator rotor puller. I do not mind spending the $10 on one but was just curious if there are any alternatives to buying the tool.

Thanks.

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dave500 · « **Reply #1 on:** December 29, 2017, 01:00:35 PM »

just a plain bolt,i forget the size right now but someone will remember before I have time to go and measure it.

REAPER · « **Reply #2 on:** December 29, 2017, 01:03:47 PM »

I just struggled with pulling the generator rotor off my CB550 Crank last week. I used a standard automotive pulley/fan puller and it took quite a bit of torque to get it to pull loose. (Note: I also put a the M10x1.0 bolt used to hold it in into the tapped hole in the crankshaft, but didn't thread it all the way down - the bold has a dimple in the center so your puller doesn't slip) I was trying to gently tap it also, but it really seemed like the best way was just to put a lot of ass into it. I marred the generator rotor a bit, but nothing that would throw it out of balance or complicate reassembly. My best advice to you is to be really patient with it.

Good Luck!

dave500 · « **Reply #3 on:** December 29, 2017, 01:10:33 PM »

the bolt is 16x1.5

scunny · « **Reply #4 on:** December 29, 2017, 01:36:41 PM »

from memory, I used the rear axle bolt.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #5 on:** December 30, 2017, 08:58:40 AM »

Rear axle bolt from the 550 won't fit. Use a bolt like Dave describes. May require heat. Will require tightening it down and giving it a few good smacks.

Yamahawk · « **Reply #6 on:** December 30, 2017, 09:09:43 AM »

Quote from: dave500 on December 29, 2017, 01:10:33 PM

the bolt is 16x1.5

by about 50mm long?

...hey scunny, that pedal bike that leaks oil... that's actually Guiness Extra Stout... it just LOOKS like oil

754 · « **Reply #7 on:** December 30, 2017, 12:31:56 PM »

I use the factory tool, wil, post pic later.
I would not want to hit a axle that hard. Cheap puller bolts are online.

rddcw · « **Reply #8 on:** December 31, 2017, 07:55:07 AM »

Motion Pro " Flywheel Puller " M16 x 1.5 R.H. # 08-0027 $6.95

Don R · « **Reply #9 on:** December 31, 2017, 08:05:13 AM »

A cheap bolt will mushroom on the end and eat threads coming back out.

Cormz02 · « **Reply #10 on:** December 31, 2017, 08:07:02 AM »

I ordered the motion pro flywheel puller. Figured I should just do it right instead of trying to be cheap.

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754 · « **Reply #11 on:** December 31, 2017, 09:30:20 AM »

What can be important is that the end of the bolt is squared off and fits the end of the crank nicely.
I did mean cheap puller bolt vs off the shelf bolts that might not be squared off on the end.
Should add I have seen quite a few that are quit stuck and need a lot of effort to get off.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #12 on:** January 01, 2018, 04:15:15 AM »

I'm unsure the grade of bolt I used but it worked fine and cost me about $1. It didn't have a totally flat surface. You guys are over thinking it.

Yamahawk · « **Reply #13 on:** January 01, 2018, 07:13:20 AM »

...judicious 'taps' with a 16oz jeweler's micrometer (ball peen) and a slight retightening of the bolt will break the taper and pop it off, usually. You don't want to wail on the bolt, but a sharp 'tap' and tighten of the bolt works for me...repeat as necessary. A hardened or higher grade bolt will help, too.
Charlie

dave500 · « **Reply #14 on:** January 07, 2018, 01:50:48 AM »

Quote from: DaveBarbier on January 01, 2018, 04:15:15 AM

I'm unsure the grade of bolt I used but it worked fine and cost me about $1. It didn't have a totally flat surface. You guys are over thinking it.

yep bloody oath over thinking it,so much so I thought id over think it some more and produce a knock puller,knock it tight then knock it sideways,then knock it once more and they always let go!

przjohn · « **Reply #15 on:** January 07, 2018, 07:10:04 AM »

I have the Motion Pro tool too, low cost enough compared to other specialty tools. As has been said tapping lightly will break the fit. The worst one I ever had was a 75 Norton that looked like it would never come off, but with patience, all of a sudden one of the taps popped it right off.

Don R · « **Reply #16 on:** January 07, 2018, 09:27:54 AM »

It is amazing how tight some of them are with just a taper fit, and on occasion you hear of one that spun and the owner can't get it to stay on.

Cormz02 · « **Reply #17 on:** January 17, 2018, 11:08:50 AM »

Hey guys so I finally had time to get it out and noticed some bad marks on the back. Is this normal or something I caused? It came of pretty easy and I did not put much pressure on it at all.

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754 · « **Reply #18 on:** January 17, 2018, 11:49:58 AM »

Looks like gaps in the weld that holds it together....

Yamahawk · « **Reply #19 on:** January 17, 2018, 04:23:40 PM »

It certainly looks like someone worked on it... Frank, I have heard of people machining the rotor to lighten it, do you think it was perhaps what they did? That is where the weld is, at least I think I see a heat mark from weld zone in the metal.
Charlie

Cormz02 · « **Reply #20 on:** January 17, 2018, 06:02:26 PM »

Either way, is this something I should be worried about?

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DaveBarbier · « **Reply #21 on:** January 18, 2018, 04:27:48 AM »

Nah, unless you see big wear marks on the case for some reason. The rotor is nothing but a hunk of metal. Not really much can go wrong with it.

dave500 · « **Reply #22 on:** January 18, 2018, 04:29:07 AM »

they often have those scattered weld holes in them.

Cormz02 · « **Reply #23 on:** January 18, 2018, 05:40:47 AM »

Sounds good thanks for the info

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Author Topic: Generator rotor puller? (Read 1834 times)