Topic: I went shopping last year, inside the 836

[scottly]

Don, use a late style rotor without the flange that the early rotors had. The flange alone is about 1.25 pounds.

[Don R]

 For sure Scottly, I have that option and a friend with a nice lathe. That cut one looks like the one on the turbo motor. PO said it runs the lights and ignition but not much left for the starter.

[Kevin D]

  My late friend and cb750 guru warned me about a quick revving engine and heavy flywheel twisting the end off of the crank. Because he did just that.
  He built the 1124 stroker motor I procured after his passing. He also built the big bore motor in a 72 I own, he remembered at that time a shortage of 836 kits but could not say for sure what he used back then.

It sounds dangerous and expensive, but if you could get past that, it might be a point of pride to have built an engine powerful enough to twist the crank apart, just once. Much wiser to learned the lesson without stepping in the shyte.

[Don R]

 True, I need to deck the head before re-assembling and maybe o ring the top of the sleeve. When I found the two drag bikes, they totally got my attention sorting and deciding what was junk.
  I now have crank studs to install also and re-check smooth rotation with the head off.

[Don R]

 The stuff included a set of not in the box but new MTC stock length rods, they appear to have been tightened down, (there are circles on the washers) but there's no evidence of bearing installation. The one I tried, the cap isn't anxious to come off by hand and I'm wondering about removing the forging flash off of the beams. Film at 11.
 The nuts are distortion type locking so torque or stretch will be a question. I do own a bolt stretch gauge, but it might be in the race car trailer in storage.
  My brother brought me two NOS green rod bearings, I wanted to snap one in but didn't want to go gorilla on the cap to get it off.

[MRieck]

The stuff included a set of not in the box but new MTC stock length rods, they appear to have been tightened down, (there are circles on the washers) but there's no evidence of bearing installation. The one I tried, the cap isn't anxious to come off by hand and I'm wondering about removing the forging flash off of the beams. Film at 11.
 The nuts are distortion type locking so torque or stretch will be a question. I do own a bolt stretch gauge, but it might be in the race car trailer in storage.
  My brother brought me two NOS green rod bearings, I wanted to snap one in but didn't want to go gorilla on the cap to get it off.

Don...those rods have locating dowels. How about squirting some lube on the sides of the cap and strike the cap with a small plastic mallet while holding the beam? You could heat the big end with a heat gun too. Those rods have a locating pin in the cap to lock the bearing in place....you will need to drill the bearing for that.

[Don R]

 Thanks Mike. I just saw bearing notches. I'll look again.

[Don R]

 No dowels in these, makes me wonder if they are early models that didn't have them yet or newer ones where they were deleted?

[Don R]

Pic.

[T1m32sh1n3]

Ive got a nos set without the locatingbdowels as well.

[Don R]

 Part 2 of the batch, I sent the PO this pic of the flywheel on the red bike and he confirmed this is his old RC836. It has RC steel rods and RC 65mm pistons on a stock crank. I can reach a finger through the dyno side engine hole and confirm the rods don't have the stock double ridge on the cap.
 I always wondered what the farm looking dirt and twig looking stuff is in every shifter cover I remove. 
   Tonight, I realized it's the crud that falls in from above that gets thrown in by the chain and trapped between the case covers.

[MRieck]

Part 2 of the batch, I sent the PO this pic of the flywheel on the red bike and he confirmed this is his old RC836. It has RC steel rods and RC 65mm pistons on a stock crank. I can reach a finger through the dyno side engine hole and confirm the rods don't have the stock double ridge on the cap.
 I always wondered what the farm looking dirt and twig looking stuff is in every shifter cover I remove. 
   Tonight, I realized it's the crud that falls in from above that gets thrown in by the chain and trapped between the case covers.

I like the lightening holes in your hammer handle Don......very trick.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

From the look of the nut it appears to be the upper level RC stock Honda rod. Peened and bushed.

Curious about the compression now?? Run a bore scope down the plug hole.

[Don R]

 PO said they are the big dome pistons, the turbo motor has flat tops, this one has compression. 
 Mike, my late machinist neighbor told me I wasn't cool until I drilled my ball peen hammer handles. I wish he had lived until I was done being a plumber, I would have retired and then worked in his shop for sure. Maybe even bought it, his family wanted nothing to do with it.

[Don R]

 The clutch didn't come installed in the turbo motor, so I went through the parts today. It's a nine disc red fiber clutch. Kevlar? It's a wee bit thin, looks like the APE set. I found copper coated plates in the correct quantity so I sanded them a bit and made a set out of them all.
   The lifter cleaned up nicely, spun like a fidget spinner so I cleaned it and greased it. The clutch springs are purple and a wee bit longer, there were washers under them but they didn't fit over the spring stems, I used parts from two clutches, the stack height is very close. 
   I'm wondering if non copper coated steel plates would grab the red discs better than the copper ones and if the purple springs are OK to use. I'll most likely do the Hondaman oil hole mod before it goes in the engine. I did some heating on the stuck pistons and cylinders to no result.
   The trick engine stand makes it not possible to remove the bottom case half. The top could possibly come off but that doesn't help in this case.  I'll probably take it to the workbench to split it.
 A peek in the bottom revealed aluminum MTC rods like the new ones that came with it. I watched a Steve Morris engine builder video where he mentioned aluminum rods with dowels and without, he discounted their need. Made me feel better about not having them.

[Tracksnblades1]

 A peek in the bottom revealed aluminum MTC rods like the new ones that came with it. I watched a Steve Morris engine builder video where he mentioned aluminum rods with dowels and without, he discounted their need. Made me feel better about not having them.

When you get that Buzzard Catcher mounted on top that Big belt driven air cleaner and burning 90% Nitro. Id probably go with the ones with the dowels. 😜

[Don R]

I'll try to keep it under 10 psi. with the exhaust driven hair dryer.
  I need to get the cylinder off and the pistons out so I can make just one trip to the machine shop for the two drag bike motors. 

[Tracksnblades1]

I'll try to keep it under 10 psi. with the exhaust driven hair dryer.
  I need to get the cylinder off and the pistons out so I can make just one trip to the machine shop for the two drag bike motors.

You’re  a ways away. You’re always welcome to Natillda La Burne..
She works well for me when the Inch impact or press flames out.
She’s a rather large rose though, needs a very large regulator to keep her happy..😁

[Don R]

For sure more BTU's are needed, the maap hand torch and new electric heat gun (has a 700* setting that might not melt cheese) are pretty ineffective. Or just take the bottom off and disconnect rods. I'm hoping to save these pistons, not the cylinders. They are already 65mm and apparently rusty.

[Tracksnblades1]

For sure more BTU's are needed, the maap hand torch and new electric heat gun (has a 700* setting that might not melt cheese) are pretty ineffective. Or just take the bottom off and disconnect rods. I'm hoping to save these pistons, not the cylinders. They are already 65mm and apparently rusty.

I can’t express adequately how effective the grease zerk method is..
I would know where the crank journal’s are.. head bolts and studs are no match for it either..

[dragracer]

For sure more BTU's are needed, the maap hand torch and new electric heat gun (has a 700* setting that might not melt cheese) are pretty ineffective. Or just take the bottom off and disconnect rods. I'm hoping to save these pistons, not the cylinders. They are already 65mm and apparently rusty.

I can’t express adequately how effective the grease zerk method is..
I would know where the crank journal’s are.. head bolts and studs are no match for it either..

Not familiar with that method. I think I missed that memo.. Can you explain further??

[Tracksnblades1]

For sure more BTU's are needed, the maap hand torch and new electric heat gun (has a 700* setting that might not melt cheese) are pretty ineffective. Or just take the bottom off and disconnect rods. I'm hoping to save these pistons, not the cylinders. They are already 65mm and apparently rusty.

I can’t express adequately how effective the grease zerk method is..
I would know where the crank journal’s are.. head bolts and studs are no match for it either..

Not familiar with that method. I think I missed that memo.. Can you explain further??

Racer,
Think hydraulic jack.
Modify a spark plug by tig welding a pipe bushing, where you have removed the center porcelain, to allow a grease zerk to thread into it.
You know the rest, screw it in a cylinder, make sure valves are shut and crank journal is somewhere between tdc and bdc.
Snap your grease gun hose fitting on the zerk and pump.
Some with the right type compression testers use the appropriate thread adapter so they don’t have fab anything.

[Don R]

 I've done that with a caliper and grease gun and it works great.
 My problem is I don't know which cylinders are stuck or even how bad they are. Doing all 4 on the engine is problematic. I could remove the top end and put it between an old empty block and a disposable head. That might be the ticket, to do one at a time. 
   My air/hydraulic pump could use a flush out anyway. If I poured a liquid (not diesel fuel) into the cylinder first it wouldn't use a lot more hydraulic oil and would displace any air.

[Tracksnblades1]

I've done that with a caliper and grease gun and it works great.
 My problem is I don't know which cylinders are stuck or even how bad they are. Doing all 4 on the engine is problematic. I could remove the top end and put it between an old empty block and a disposable head. That might be the ticket, to do one at a time. 
   My air/hydraulic pump could use a flush out anyway. If I poured a liquid (not diesel fuel) into the cylinder first it wouldn't use a lot more hydraulic oil and would displace any air.

I would try to identify which one looks the worst and do it. Or Soak lube them all. Find the journal that is closest to 90* from tdc. Rotate cam or remove to ensure those valves are shut. It really won’t matter which one is stuck. Pump very slow watch for crank movement. If it holds pressure well  pump, wait, pump wait, go eat lunch, pump wait.
Check rods and rod bolts for damage afterwards.

[dragracer]

I recently purchased a 1963 Corvair engine for a project car that was locked up from sitting.  I had previously read on one of the car forums that a 50/50 mixture of acetone and marvel mystery oil(orAtf) was very effective in loosening up a stuck engine. After backing off the rockers of several valves that were open, I poured the mixture in each cylinder. I let it sit for 3 days and sure enough I got it to budge a tad. I moved it back and forth and I broke loose completely. After doing some other checks, I plan to crank it up on a pallet to see what condition it's in. I intend to use this same liquid formula on a 1949 Ford V8 flathead that's also locked up. You may want to consider trying the same thing. It was a fairly cheap method.