Important to find a good timing. That "cam card" does not have the important numbers. Only full lift and full duration.
In: open/close at 0 lash and 1mm lift (0.04").
Might be:
IN open same or near to EX close.
EX open same or near to IN close..
Only good if IN open is 2-4 degrees more than EX close.
Start to set it as a stock cam. The timing will tell how to move the adjustable sprocket.
I usually tighten the valve adjuster screw until the dial gauge needle start to move 0.02mm or so.
When 0 lash is done you can check at running lash.
I should check In/Ex at 0.10/0.15 mm. That lash work as advance of the cam.
Per.....I just set the valve lash to what is stated. Getting that "zero" reading is really hard as you just never know how much you are preloading the the rocker arm. 
I recommend putting in the running lash and just subtract the # from the open and closing numbers. Take it from somebody who F'd around with brass sheets etc on shim /bucket arrangements to get "zero" lash. Use what you are running at.....that is the real number. 
Fully agree Mike,
I'll do the 0 lash with adjuster pretightened, pass the lashes in valve train to see if it will be close to cam card numbers, lift especially.
Different cam holders and rocker arms have different lash which affect timing too.
The final running lash check to verify the balance in vs ex.
A good thing to have frame kit, possible to time cam again.
I have tried different timings on my 125-75 cam. I marked cam and sprocket with punchmarks when it was close to cam card.
A few degrees retarded or advanced relatively the best numbers reduced power rather much.
10whp less ( dull torque) as worst with cam retarded. First run on dyno so no more runs needed at that visit.
Another dyno run with ca 3 degrees more advanced than best lost 5whp.
Last 2 dynos with +3whp. The only changes was main jets 2.5 step smaller and cleaned pods.
So the small adjustments can make a difference
