Topic: My CB750K2

[willbird]

Ordered a Delkevic header for the K2, agonized over megaphone or classic straight and settled on the straight. The mac that is on the K2 will get shifted over to the K3 getaway bike project.

[willbird]

Grabbed a Harbor Freight motorcycle wheel balancing stand to true the wheels I now have all the parts to build. Out of the box the cones on the arbor had issues. Lots of ways to gild this lilly but the simplest is to just put the set screws 180 apart and set the arbor up in the lathe. Their 1/2" shaft is for sure not perfect but this section was about .0003" TIR runout.

Before

https://imgur.com/A4h8A7x

After...this is a .0001" indicator BTW ;-)


https://imgur.com/P0N2jnN


I have some 1/2" O1 drill rod but it measures .513, with access to a OD grinder I could grind it straight but I do not have access. O1 drill rod is only spec for .005" total TIR per foot anyway so it is probably on average not dead straight. There is perhaps some linear bearing material avail out there for $35 or so per foot that would work. The result here for $50 at HF and an hours lathe time is pretty reasonable for the $ and time IMHO.

[denward17]

Dang, it's nice to have equipment like that in your shop.  Great job.

[willbird]

Dang, it's nice to have equipment like that in your shop.  Great job.

IMHO the root cause of the runout is the .512" bore in the cones so a person without a lathe could IMHO drill and tap additional set screw holes and tune things to run more true probably. I just recently added the 5C collet stuff to that lathe and it has made jobs like this a LOT easier. Prior to having that I would have had to wrap the 1/2" arbor in something to protect it and then indicate it to run true in a 4 jaw chuck.

Bill

[HondaMan]

I see your HF wheel stand is just like mine was.
I made some cones in my lathe, too.
Makes one wonder how the Chinese could make them ALL out-of-true so consistently?
 

[grcamna2]

Grabbed a Harbor Freight motorcycle wheel balancing stand to true the wheels I now have all the parts to build. Out of the box the cones on the arbor had issues. Lots of ways to gild this lilly but the simplest is to just put the set screws 180 apart and set the arbor up in the lathe. Their 1/2" shaft is for sure not perfect but this section was about .0003" TIR runout.

Before

https://imgur.com/A4h8A7x

After...this is a .0001" indicator BTW ;-)


https://imgur.com/P0N2jnN


I have some 1/2" O1 drill rod but it measures .513, with access to a OD grinder I could grind it straight but I do not have access. O1 drill rod is only spec for .005" total TIR per foot anyway so it is probably on average not dead straight. There is perhaps some linear bearing material avail out there for $35 or so per foot that would work. The result here for $50 at HF and an hours lathe time is pretty reasonable for the $ and time IMHO.

I have the same stand/balancer.
I noticed it would not accurately true-up when I used the cones with the set-screws.

I also tried and removed the wheel from the lower/mid height large threaded screw-down 'cones'  both and installed a large shaft through both bearings with the proper O.D. fit into the bearing i.d.'s and set the wheel on top of the bearings,as if I only wanted to balance the wheel and it trued-up no problem.
Now I know why;the cones were not precise.

[willbird]

Grabbed a Harbor Freight motorcycle wheel balancing stand to true the wheels I now have all the parts to build. Out of the box the cones on the arbor had issues. Lots of ways to gild this lilly but the simplest is to just put the set screws 180 apart and set the arbor up in the lathe. Their 1/2" shaft is for sure not perfect but this section was about .0003" TIR runout.

Before

https://imgur.com/A4h8A7x

After...this is a .0001" indicator BTW ;-)


https://imgur.com/P0N2jnN


I have some 1/2" O1 drill rod but it measures .513, with access to a OD grinder I could grind it straight but I do not have access. O1 drill rod is only spec for .005" total TIR per foot anyway so it is probably on average not dead straight. There is perhaps some linear bearing material avail out there for $35 or so per foot that would work. The result here for $50 at HF and an hours lathe time is pretty reasonable for the $ and time IMHO.

I have the same stand/balancer.
I noticed it would not accurately true-up when I used the cones with the set-screws.

I also tried and removed the wheel from the lower/mid height large threaded screw-down 'cones'  both and installed a large shaft through both bearings with the proper O.D. fit into the bearing i.d.'s and set the wheel on top of the bearings,as if I only wanted to balance the wheel and it trued-up no problem.
Now I know why;the cones were not precise.

I recall somebody asking about shafting for this use. I fully expected their shaft to be a lot worse than it is, maybe some are. I center drilled the end of it and it drilled like 4140 or some such....it is not butter soft stuff. A new set of cones that fit tighter would be a good fix maybe. I could wrap up days of free time making a silk purse out of that sows ear, may still LOL. Buddy encouraged me to get a cheap 3D printer, printed cones may work too :-).

Bill

[willbird]

I had a new set of bars and repro controls sitting. Had noticed my OEM starter button was taking the poop so installed the new bars, contrils, and a better looking OEM instrument panel. The wiring was really harshing my mellow so I have advanced an idea I had for bikes that have a frame mounted fairing.

I used cardboard aided design ...


To make a 3d model of this part to hold DIN rail.


The terminals, jumpers, and end plates are from Amazon.


This is how I do industrial wiring at work, best practice is to have only one wire under each screw on the terminals and that is my goal here. We SOMETIMES violate that rule if we have a good reason. Each section is jumpered together, the first section will be black key on +12V, the second section will be green "ground" aka "DC Common". Each of the 2 terminal sections has 4 wires connected according to the wiring diagram. Pretty sure a RED 12V battery wire will come into here to allow using relays for high and low beam headlight. White and Blue will then be wired to each of two relay coils for headlights, planning to still let the bar controls still directly control the other lights they normally operate.

This is really only workable for bikes that will never have a headlight shoved into the shell again.

Bill

[grcamna2]

Did you also mold your own headlight shell/case ??  Looks good 

[willbird]

Did you also mold your own headlight shell/case ??  Looks good 

I just painted the inside with a satin white and the outside with flat black, Krylon Fusion.

[willbird]

Got everything wired up, seems to work fine with the exception of oil pressure light. Ran out of time for today but bulb is good but the blue wire with red stripe coming from the main wire harness is not connected to ground with engine off. The Neutral light works so that is telling us that the ground connection to the engine itself is working. Ordered a repro oil pressure switch, thinking it is the issue.

Need to chase that wire back to the oil sender. Fairing is still off so could not confirm the lights included within it yet but that stuff is pretty simple.


Bill

[HondaMan]

Got everything wired up, seems to work fine with the exception of oil pressure light. Ran out of time for today but bulb is good but the blue wire with red stripe coming from the main wire harness is not connected to ground with engine off. The Neutral light works so that is telling us that the ground connection to the engine itself is working. Ordered a repro oil pressure switch, thinking it is the issue.

Need to chase that wire back to the oil sender. Fairing is still off so could not confirm the lights included within it yet but that stuff is pretty simple.


Bill

The oil PSI light switches are often 'intermittent' when awakened after a long nap (like, years...). About half the time they will work OK again after a few hours of runtime, or you can just replace them: PartsNmore sells one I've used many times.

[willbird]

OK did some trouble shooting, the oil sender wire did have what I will call a nominal connection to ground that perhaps would not actually carry any current. I swapped senders with the one from my K3 engine and the oil light works as it should now. Turn signal light not working, traced that to a bad bulb today.

Balanced the carbs. Took the bike for a ride and partway through it started running like crap. When I got home I discovered this.



I had ordered these last summer from 4:1 who I might start calling 4 into five LOL. Ordered a set of Honda OEM from JT marks on Ebay. The four into 5's have no markings at all as to which is inner and which is outer. I seem to recall a herculean struggle to install them. They were $79 and the OEM are $109. At the time I was focused on getting one thing at a time squared away to be able to ride the bike last summer.

[willbird]

Here is what the headlight shell looks like wired. Did not cut any length from OEM harness going back towards rear of frame.




Twowires from the right control are for the turn signal buzzer so not used currently. The brown wire on right as I understand it is not used in USA, it is for a Euro required powered front side marker light. I do have powered side markers on the Jammer II that I formerly wired to key on power = black. Currently they are not wired in at all, did not get around to that when I replaced all the jammer wires that mice had eaten.

Still plan to swap a few things around, turn signals for example should be next to each other, I had just started plugging wires in as I went, did stop and swap to get high and low beams side by side but was past signals by that point. Also the grommets I had were not in favor of going through a surface as thick as the shell is so the proper ones will need hunted down, purchased, and installed, along with heat shrink of any wires.

[RAFster122s]

Question, is that where your wiring block will reside? Have you put a headlamp into the shell? It looks nice but aren't you fitting it where it will interfere with the space required by the bulb reflector and bulb and it's wiring pigtail/harness?

[PeWe]

My H4 reflector with std H4 will probably not fit there.

No blinkers? Stock has grounding under each nut holding the bucket. Honda washer with green grounding cable device.

[willbird]

Question, is that where your wiring block will reside? Have you put a headlamp into the shell? It looks nice but aren't you fitting it where it will interfere with the space required by the bulb reflector and bulb and it's wiring pigtail/harness?

My H4 reflector with std H4 will probably not fit there.

No blinkers? Stock has grounding under each nut holding the bucket. Honda washer with green grounding cable device.

This bike has had a Windjammer II frame mounted fairing since the middle 1970's and will for as long as I am alive :-).

[RAFster122s]

Cool, I like the Windjammer II and IV but really love the looks of the Vesco Rabid Transit fairing with either the touring or the cafe style shields/depending on bike it is fitted to.
I would run the taller winds reen most likely. Everyone thinks these things are really heavy but they are quite light, just really bulky.

[willbird]

Cool, I like the Windjammer II and IV but really love the looks of the Vesco Rabid Transit fairing with either the touring or the cafe style shields/depending on bike it is fitted to.
I would run the taller winds reen most likely. Everyone thinks these things are really heavy but they are quite light, just really bulky.

Wow those are really interesting, they REALLY look at home on a BMW Boxer

[willbird]

The repro hand controls for some reason my OEM throttle stop was not quite long enough to lock throttle so I worked out that I needed one .03" longer, so made this up.





Also installed a Joker Machine oil pressure gauge, and a set of Uni Filter pods to replace my 30+ year old K&N pods.

Bill

[willbird]

Also had been issues with the bike running poorly under 3K rpm under load. Back in 92 I had moved main needles up one notch by moving clips down from the middle position due to what seemed to be a lean condition. Was pondering if I would need to move them back down. Found idle screws at 1 turn out the other day, had ran them in to 1/2 turn out and that did not change anything. Changing the pods ruled out issues there. So after I filled up with gas ran idle screws out to 1-1/2 turns total, that seems to have  made a HUGE difference in a good way.

I have a new Delkevic 4:1 to go onto the bike but had held off until I had resolved the issue with it running poorly before swapping the Mac 4:1 for the new Delkevic.

Bill

[willbird]

Thought to look at miles since I first fired bike up from it's long slumber. Looks like 4500 miles approximately since April 2023. Around @K miles so far this year. Just installed a new Windjammer windshield last weekend. The new improved throttle lock screw is working decent too, might need about another .01" of threaded extension maybe to be closer to perfect :-).

[HondaMan]

Thought to look at miles since I first fired bike up from it's long slumber. Looks like 4500 miles approximately since April 2023. Around @K miles so far this year. Just installed a new Windjammer windshield last weekend. The new improved throttle lock screw is working decent too, might need about another .01" of threaded extension maybe to be closer to perfect :-).

Inside your throttle grip, above that screw, is there a long-ish U-shaped, curved spring in between the screw and the throttle grip? There should be. If it is gone then the tip of the screw will simply keep chewing away at the throttle grip over time.

[willbird]

Thought to look at miles since I first fired bike up from it's long slumber. Looks like 4500 miles approximately since April 2023. Around @K miles so far this year. Just installed a new Windjammer windshield last weekend. The new improved throttle lock screw is working decent too, might need about another .01" of threaded extension maybe to be closer to perfect :-).

Inside your throttle grip, above that screw, is there a long-ish U-shaped, curved spring in between the screw and the throttle grip? There should be. If it is gone then the tip of the screw will simply keep chewing away at the throttle grip over time.

It is there, I put it there myself, but either the repro control is different, or the throttle tube is slightly different to where the original screw lock did not QUITE work.  The throttle tube was supposedly a Honda OEM part. I needed a screw .03" longer, works decent now but I think another .01" would be better for 80mph blasts where traffic is moving those speeds. I used OURY grips and I think I would like to find a pair a bit more substantial.

[willbird]

Bike had a wet sumping issue. Removed header and dropped oil pan hoping to just change the rubber tip of the anti drain back valve. Valve was stuck clear open. Somehow the bore where the piston rests when engine is off seems too small. Submerged a spare pump I had from Ebay and installed it with new O rings. Installed an Ebay K8 oil pan.

Got these bolts from Belmetric, this is a K3 pan on a K3 engine I have on an engine stand, handy to have a spare engine sitting around to do stuff like try bolts :-). The bolt at 6 oclock was tough to get a socket on the K3, I had to turn a 1/4" drive socket smaller. I lathe turned .04" aka 1mm off the flange dia.



This is what the K8 pan looks like