Topic: I need to paint frame etc my 70’ 750ko

[slyguy]

Not a painter & wanting to get it done. I rough sanded it & thinking rattle can it? Should it be primed? What’s the best match? Tia for your opinions!
Ps what’s it even cost to have it painted, 500.00?

[calj737]

Depends upon what you hope to get out of it. Media blasting and powder coating is recommended by many. POR-15 makes a very good DIY paint kit. Preparation is critical regardless of paint/coating process.

Rattle can will always look like a cheap DIY unless you are diligent and experienced.

[HondaMan]

The 750K0 frames were painted in gloss black lacquer.
This changed to semi-gloss black lacquer at the K1 and onward.
So, often if you [put gloves on and] wipe the old paint down well with an aggressive (aka "hot") lacquer thinner it will prep the surface well enough to accept a new coat of lacquer or good enamel. I prefer the Duplicolor series of pseudo-lacquers today. These need 5-6 thin (2 each very thin, last one(s) wetter) layers to come out like OEM in color and durability, instructions are shown on their cans. They are not the 'hot' lacquers of yesteryear, but applied properly they are durable enough with good base prep. It takes 5-7 days for this to harden, so plan accordingly for handling.

Otherwise, you can have the frame sandblasted clean again and choose any method for painting bare metal.

[willbird]

I guess it is worth asking around some local body shops. Eastwood makes an "underhood black" one part single stage Urethane.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-underhood-black-single-stage-urethane-quart-kit.html

I have not sprayed the single stage but I have sprayed the basecoat acrylic urethane and it sprayed kinda like lacquer, dried quick. The 2 stage color and clear coat is resistant to fuel and even brake fluid.

[CycleRanger]

To get it blasted & powder coated typical cost is around $400 most places.
Blasted & painted may or may not be a little cheaper. Paint prices seem to be elevated these days.
You can do it yourself, but the prep is a killer, all the scraping and sanding.
A "rattle can" job can come out pretty good if you use quality paint and take your time.
I like the VHT and Duplicolor brand spray paints.
I've used the VHT black on most of the small parts on my bikes with pretty good results.

I'm taking my CL350 frame and swing arm to get stripped and powder coated tomorrow.
The rest of it I will bead-blast in my small cabinet and spray myself.

[Kelly E]

I sandblast and paint our frames. Here's the 78' KL 250 frame I painted recently. This time I used XRusto paint and primer in one. Two or three light coats and one or two wet coats works for that paint. Seems like every brand works a little different. The XRusto seems to flow out nicely while drying.

[grcamna2]

I sandblast and paint our frames. Here's the 78' KL 250 frame I painted recently. This time I used XRusto paint and primer in one. Two or three light coats and one or two wet coats works for that paint. Seems like every brand works a little different. The XRusto seems to flow out nicely while drying.

The KL250 there came out a nice gloss 

[PeWe]

There are 2k paint on rattle can too. If doing it yourself.

I have a frame, swing arm, steering head and battery box I plan to spray home.
2k black primer/filler spray and 2k black.
Clean and sand it smooth.

[RAFster122s]

POR-15 paint flows out nicely and can be brushed and given proper amount of paint applied it will flow out and smooth and level eliminating any signs of being brushed. Mdke sure you are using UV compatible POR product as some are designed to be topcoated and won't be unless you top coat them with a UV blocking layer for that finish. The rust preventative paints are not designed to be a final top coat, so they need painted over...

[BenelliSEI]

It depends on where you want to end up. On a bike I plan to use a lot, I powder coat. It shines, lasts, and takes some abuse. For a more accurate finish (like my latest project), paint is the way to go. A local bicycle shop recommended a great painter (retired pro that likes to do small projects for cash) that I’ve often used. His results are 3 X better than what I accomplish myself. Worth searching around bit.

P.S. I do plan on using this bike, so the side and centre stands, foot pegs and battery box got powder coated…… it just takes so much more abuse.

[CycleRanger]

It depends on where you want to end up. On a bike I plan to use a lot, I powder coat. It shines, lasts, and takes some abuse. For a more accurate finish (like my latest project), paint is the way to go. A local bicycle shop recommended a great painter (retired pro that likes to do small projects for cash) that I’ve often used. His results are 3 X better than what I accomplish myself. Worth searching around a bit.

That's a good point.

[MauiK3]

Be sure to treat any rust with something like Ospho to stop it or it will just come back.
POR15 is a good, tough product.
Use a respirator in any case if you do it yourself.

[slyguy]

Wow, so much input! Thanks everyone

[RAFster122s]

Many spray cans and even spray guns are designed for painting larger areas, I bet for frame painting the local pro uses a touch up gun as they have a smaller spray pattern and in experienced hands do wonderful work.
So, if you are looking to do it yourself and have a compressor capable of supplying a small hvlp touch up gun you can do itself. Lots of volume of air is needed so, big storage tank needed on a compressor...

[70CB750]

The K3 frame for Red I cleaned mechanically - wire brush on angle grinder - and spray painted using TSC implement spray paint.  It worked well. 

That said, the K0 frame I will have blasted and powder coated. 

[Don R]

  I like the spray can chassis and roll bar paint. I think it's made by VHT.
 
  That said, DuPont Imron in blitz black is my favorite, a spray gun is cheap at discount tool stores but I'd bet a pint of the paint and needed thinners is $$ these days. I spray it a couple coats and then use the remaining paint in the cup and some reducer to wet down the whole job to melt in the overspray caused when painting tube frames. People swear it is powder coat. 
  You would need a respirator also but that goes for spraying any paint.

[HondaMan]

If you get it powder-coated (or some similar thicker paint), don't forget the following items afterward:
1. Cut the paint off the outer ends of the swingarm's pivot tube and the corresponding sites in the frame. Otherwise the swingarm will bind when the pivot bolt is tightened up.
2. Make sure to [re]open the frame vent holes at the sites just behind the rider's footpegs, and just in front of the lower engine bolsters. If your K1 frame does NOT have a small drain hole in front of the lower engine bolsters, add one on each side to prevent frame rot right there. This was a Honda Service Bulletin when the holes were forgotten at the factory and some frames rotted and had to be replaced. A 1/8" to 332" hole is adequate after painting.
3. Remove the paint from the top & bottom of the front steering bearing mounts before reassembling the steering tree, or else it will quickly work in some slop (in like 50 miles), making the steering loose and causing handling problems. While you're in the top tree, consider getting some tapered steering head bearings to replace the old ball & race arrangement, as those only last(ed) about 10k miles. All Balls has the sets.

[britman]

Gloss black epoxy appliance paint.  Tough as nails and shines forever.  Drawbacks-creates a hell of a lot overspray and takes a while to fully cure but once done comes out great.   Make sure you have a good clean frame and coat fully on the first coat.  Touch up any missed spots immediately or you will be waiting until a full cure to correct.  I highly recommend using a respirator when applying, not a great stuff to be breathing in.........

[slyguy]

Wow! Such great insight…I value everyone’s opinions & knowledge so thank you! 👍

[Alan F.]

+1 for the appliance epoxy in general, but for your bike it's appearance may not be entirely correct.