Author Topic: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions  (Read 1608 times)

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Offline ZTatZAU

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K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« on: April 04, 2024, 07:42:35 PM »

I've been busy taking more and more apart, to clean up and refurbish whatever I can, while I was waiting for my Busso "no_stamp" repop pipes to arrive to go along with my new Yamiya Ruby Red skins.  I've done way more than I originally intended when I first set out to resurrect my old ride.  Some may recall I tried my hand at lacing the wheels and lately I've been touching up a lot of the frame and frame components with semi-gloss black Rustoleum, best I could, without removing the engine.

As I start putting things back together, I have a few questions for those who've been down this road before.

1) Center Stand side-play:



I ran a dry test fit on my cleaned up and recoated center stand (HF - Chassis & Grille Paint) and found what seemed to be an 1/8" of side to side play, in the stand, between the mounting brackets on the frame.

Nothing looks damaged or bent, and I double checked the parts manual to be sure I wasn't overlooking a spacer or washer(s) to take up the play which actually measures more like 3/32".  Is this amount of space normal or typical? 

Does anyone try to close up the mounting brackets when clamping down on the center stand pivot tube?  Or perhaps add a washer to take up the extra space between the clamping brackets?

2)  Swingarm assembly - installation:

I'm just feeling my way along here and there's not much in the SM, but from the PM diagram I assume this is how the bushing end of the swingarm is supposed to be setup.



I wasn't planning on replacing the bushing in the swingarm but there wasn't much left of the felt seal on either side when I took the swingarm apart so I got a set of (aftermarket) felt seals to install.

The trouble I had was then trying to install thrust washer's shoulder, far enough into the felt ring and onto the pivot tube far enough to allow the thrust washer's flange to get close to the swing arm... to add the caps... and fit it all into the width of the frame.  I did indeed wind up breaking both of the fragile plastic thrust bearings, so I'll need to order at least a set of those from Honda or a pair of the more recent replacement bronze thrust bushings.  How do you all put these together?

Suggestions welcome!
ZT

Offline HondaMan

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #1 on: April 04, 2024, 08:05:01 PM »
Use the fiber (phenolic) swingarm bushings from Honda. Don't use the bronze aftermarket ones, they don't fit right and the arm will be seized tight when you bolt it back together. Been there, many times, when rebuilding some of these arms for folks.

The centerstand is a loose-ish fit side-to-side. This gadget tends to gather a lot of road dirt and junk, so having some loose-ness is desirable.
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

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Offline willbird

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #2 on: April 05, 2024, 06:17:01 AM »
I was really pleasantly surprised to have the center stand come out of my K3 getaway bike pretty easily. I have not looked at any of the situation after removing it, having it blasted, and priming it with 2 part epoxy primer.

I grabbed my digital calipers and measured the K3 stuff. The pin measures .750 and is 7-1/4" long and feels like solid steel not hollow. it has a fairly large radius on one end. The center stand hole measures .758" and the tube on the center stand is 5.075" long. The distance between the ears on the K3 frame is 5.16" which gives me .085" slop.

My pin does not look anything like what 4:1 sells, theirs has a head on one and and a cotter pin hole on the other end, as well as a necked down center portion.



Offline MauiK3

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #3 on: April 05, 2024, 07:54:02 AM »
I used bronze in my swing arm and it seemed fine, not seized up, I got lucky.
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Offline bryanj

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #4 on: April 05, 2024, 07:58:14 AM »
That pin is not a Honda one
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Offline willbird

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #5 on: April 05, 2024, 09:03:50 AM »
That pin is not a Honda one

That was my guess too. By the buggered up screw count on the valve cover on the engine I think the engine has been out of frame at least once long before I got the bike. But maybe that is a good thing, I got the bike in 1992 or so and that pin being swapped out may be why it came out a few weeks ago. The connection was wetted with some substance. I was girding my loins for that pin coming out to be a major battle :-).

Bill

Offline ZTatZAU

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #6 on: April 05, 2024, 12:18:29 PM »
Use the fiber (phenolic) swingarm bushings from Honda. Don't use the bronze aftermarket ones, they don't fit right and the arm will be seized tight when you bolt it back together. Been there, many times, when rebuilding some of these arms for folks.

Thanks HM!  I'll proceed with a new set of the OEM phenolic thrust bushings.  But that still begs the unanswered question...

With the felt ring installed as shown in my picture above, there seems to be no room for the thrust bushing's shoulder to go far enough into the swingarm (and felt) to properly close up the ends with the caps and fit between the frame.

What am I missing here?  Am I assembling this correctly?

The centerstand is a loose-ish fit side-to-side. This gadget tends to gather a lot of road dirt and junk, so having some loose-ness is desirable.

Yeah! Mine was pretty cruddy down there for sure and likely why I never noticed the side to side play until now.

ZT

Offline ZTatZAU

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #7 on: April 05, 2024, 12:27:13 PM »
...
My pin does not look anything like what 4:1 sells, theirs has a head on one and and a cotter pin hole on the other end, as well as a necked down center portion.
Hey Bill,  Your description of 4into1's kick stand pivot tube sounds a lot like the original I removed from my K1.  Hollow, one end flared out and the other with a cotter pin hole.   Though the center of my pivot tube is not necked down.

ZT

Offline willbird

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #8 on: April 05, 2024, 03:15:06 PM »
...
My pin does not look anything like what 4:1 sells, theirs has a head on one and and a cotter pin hole on the other end, as well as a necked down center portion.
Hey Bill,  Your description of 4into1's kick stand pivot tube sounds a lot like the original I removed from my K1.  Hollow, one end flared out and the other with a cotter pin hole.   Though the center of my pivot tube is not necked down.

ZT

They only show one view of theirs so not sure if hollow or solid.

Offline HondaMan

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #9 on: April 05, 2024, 06:48:17 PM »
I used bronze in my swing arm and it seemed fine, not seized up, I got lucky.

They have worked on rare occasions, usually those where the inner bushings were set in too deeply. Sometimes the wrench who replaces them drives them all the way into their stops inside: those stops vary by up to 3mm as to where they actually are. The outer end of the bushings should be 3mm from the end of the pivot's tube: then the felt seal compresses to 1mm thick and the 2mm of depth of the phenolic bushing provides the floating seal to hold the grease in place. The bronze ones that have occasionally been sent to me by someone having me rebuild their swingarm have ranged between 2mm and 4mm of inside depth, with several versions somewhere between those 2 values. Sometimes I have been able to trim them to 2mm on my lathe, but some of them were not strong enough to be held in the chuck, the bronze used was too soft. Once I used a coarse file and slid the bushing back-and-forth across it (until I was really tired of it...) to remove 0.5mm of extra depth on both end bushings. They just seem to be all over the place, dimensionally.
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

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Offline BenelliSEI

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #10 on: April 05, 2024, 08:03:22 PM »
ZT….. I don’t think anyone has answered your last question? The bushings go in your swing arm first. Then you slide the shaft through next. When centred, it sticks out a small amount on each side. That’s the lip the felts go over, then the shaped washers….. Clear enough?

Offline ZTatZAU

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #11 on: April 06, 2024, 02:32:31 PM »
Thanks for jumping in, John!
ZT….. I don’t think anyone has answered your last question?

Actually, I think the info I was looking for was buried in HondaMan's reply tp Mauiki...

... The outer end of the bushings should be 3mm from the end of the pivot's tube: then the felt seal compresses to 1mm thick and the 2mm of depth of the phenolic bushing provides the floating seal to hold the grease in place. ...

... And that agrees with your description; which was indeed perfectly clear...

The bushings go in your swing arm first. Then you slide the shaft through next. When centred, it sticks out a small amount on each side. That’s the lip the felts go over, then the shaped washers….. Clear enough?

... but I'm still scatching my head.  My measurements are pretty close to what HM described but there's no way my felt seals will ever compress enough to allow the flange of the fiber thrust bushing to contact the swingarm.

My L&R main bushings are recessed about 3.5 mm inside the swing arm.  The depth of the inner shoulder on the thrust bearing is a full 3 mm deep and my uncompressed aftermarket felt seals (PnM) are about 4.5 mm thick.  At most, the felt seals might compress to 2.25 mm allowing only about 1 mm of the thrust bushing's shoulder to enter the swing arm with the thrust bushing flanges still about 2 mm away from the swingarm on each side.  I broke the original phenolic bushings when trying to push them in further to compress the felt seals by hand.

New thrust bushings should be here on Tuesday.  In the meantime, I guess my only questions are...

1)  Do the outer flanges of your properly installed phenolic thrust bushings actually contact the swingarm?

2)  Has anyone ever tried to shave or slice a felt ring seal in half?

ZT

Offline BenelliSEI

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #12 on: April 06, 2024, 03:06:07 PM »
ZT….. the bushings go into the swing arm. The felt dust seals go on the outside, under the metal cup washers.

Offline jonda500

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #13 on: April 06, 2024, 05:39:25 PM »
ZT….. the bushings go into the swing arm. The felt dust seals go on the outside, under the metal cup washers.
The problem he is having is with getting the phenolic thrust bushes in (that go between the felt rings and the cupped washers). I have broken these before too - I ended up getting the shop to put them in rather than risk breaking them again!
Extra question: Can new ones be made by cutting down a set of later model pivot bushes (which have the main bush and thrust bush with flange combined in one phenolic part)? - and what would be a good way to accurately cut them?
John
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Offline BenelliSEI

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #14 on: April 06, 2024, 06:14:55 PM »
That’s not what I’m reading. Here it seems he’s trying to fit the felt between the swing arm and the bushing?

“but I'm still scatching my head.  My measurements are pretty close to what HM described but there's no way my felt seals will ever compress enough to allow the flange of the fiber thrust bushing to contact the swingarm.”

Offline ZTatZAU

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #15 on: April 06, 2024, 06:35:25 PM »
ZT….. the bushings go into the swing arm. The felt dust seals go on the outside, under the metal cup washers.
John, I could be wrong but because you haven't mentioned the "thrust bushings", I think you're describing something other than the stock setup.

I've seen some videos and websites offering a one-piece flanged bronze swingarm bushing that's inserted into the swingarm to replace, not only the main cylindrical bushing inside the swingarm, but also the second stock phenolic thrust bushing that's located outside the swingarm and the felt and under the cup washers.  These are different from the aftermarket bronze replacement bushings that HM advised against using and relace only the outside phenolic thrust bushing.  The following webpage might help sort out the various replacement parts that are available.

https://www.partsnmore.com/parts/honda/cb750k/?q=swingarm

You can see my two (black and broken) thrust bushings in my photo...



I'm pretty sure mine is assembled correctly, as shown above, and waiting for new phenolic thrust bushings.  I'd just like to know how close to the swingarm (and into the felt), the phenolic thrust bushings must be, for everything to fit in the frame.

ZT

Offline BenelliSEI

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #16 on: April 06, 2024, 07:47:22 PM »
I think we are saying the same thing. When your bushings arrive, you’ll press them into the swing arm. Slide the big sleeve back in and then add the felt right back where it is in the photo. The sleeve sticks out both sides and will hold them in place as in the photo. Cap the ends with the cup washers…..

Offline BenelliSEI

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #17 on: April 06, 2024, 07:51:36 PM »
The bushings don’t go “into the felt”. They go on after the bushings, under the cup washers.

Offline HondaMan

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #18 on: April 06, 2024, 07:55:38 PM »

My L&R main bushings are recessed about 3.5 mm inside the swing arm.  The depth of the inner shoulder on the thrust bearing is a full 3 mm deep and my uncompressed aftermarket felt seals (PnM) are about 4.5 mm thick. 

There 'tis!
The OEM felt seals are just 1mm thick.
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
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Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

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Offline BenelliSEI

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #19 on: April 06, 2024, 07:58:58 PM »
Oh…

Offline ZTatZAU

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #20 on: April 07, 2024, 02:35:48 PM »
Thanks HM, for picking up on the details I provided!
My L&R main bushings are recessed about 3.5 mm inside the swing arm.  The depth of the inner shoulder on the thrust bearing is a full 3 mm deep and my uncompressed aftermarket felt seals (PnM) are about 4.5 mm thick. 
There 'tis!
The OEM felt seals are just 1mm thick.
When the new thrust bushings arrive, I'll dig up a fresh scalpel blade and try slicing these repop felt seals in half.  If that doesn't work out, can you recommend a supplier of swingarm felt seals that fit?  As far as I know, the felt seals have been discontinued by Honda.

And while HondaMan and I seem to have been on the same page here, I think it's important to reconcile the confusion that I and others may have felt with some posts in this thread.  These issues are resolved in my mind, but hope others involved will confirm or correct these notions.

I am rebuilding my swingarm with the original OEM pivot bushings in place as per the following diagram from the HPM.


BenelliSEI's description and advice was based on using the aftermarket, flanged bronze pivot bearings where the flange takes the place of the OEM thrust bushing as well...

These pivot bushings are now quite popular and the OEM pivot bushing without the flange have been discontinued by Honda.

The bronze repop bushings that HondaMan recommended against using, were the repop bronze thrust bushings that replace only the phenolic thrust bearings and not the entire pivot bushing...


Do I have any or all of this correct?  Including my proposed solution of performing surgery on my felt seals?
ZT





Offline bryanj

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #21 on: April 07, 2024, 03:47:24 PM »
The original bush 52108=300=300, and the felt seal 52145=283=000 are still available from Honda, at least here in UK they are
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Offline BenelliSEI

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #22 on: April 07, 2024, 04:16:16 PM »
Vintagecb750.com sells them for $4 a set.

Offline HondaMan

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #23 on: April 07, 2024, 09:58:49 PM »
Thanks HM, for picking up on the details I provided!
My L&R main bushings are recessed about 3.5 mm inside the swing arm.  The depth of the inner shoulder on the thrust bearing is a full 3 mm deep and my uncompressed aftermarket felt seals (PnM) are about 4.5 mm thick. 
There 'tis!
The OEM felt seals are just 1mm thick.
When the new thrust bushings arrive, I'll dig up a fresh scalpel blade and try slicing these repop felt seals in half.  If that doesn't work out, can you recommend a supplier of swingarm felt seals that fit?  As far as I know, the felt seals have been discontinued by Honda.

And while HondaMan and I seem to have been on the same page here, I think it's important to reconcile the confusion that I and others may have felt with some posts in this thread.  These issues are resolved in my mind, but hope others involved will confirm or correct these notions.

I am rebuilding my swingarm with the original OEM pivot bushings in place as per the following diagram from the HPM.


BenelliSEI's description and advice was based on using the aftermarket, flanged bronze pivot bearings where the flange takes the place of the OEM thrust bushing as well...

These pivot bushings are now quite popular and the OEM pivot bushing without the flange have been discontinued by Honda.

The bronze repop bushings that HondaMan recommended against using, were the repop bronze thrust bushings that replace only the phenolic thrust bearings and not the entire pivot bushing...


Do I have any or all of this correct?  Including my proposed solution of performing surgery on my felt seals?
ZT


Some of it is right! :)
The bronze flanged bushings that I have seen (and had to remove before being able to rebuild the swingarm) have too-thick outer flanges, usually by 0.5 to 0.8mm too thick. Once installed into the swingarm, the collar does not protrude beyond those flanges. This is an extremely important point: the finished swingarm and end bushings must leave 0.0008"-0.0012" of collar sticking out, as measured all at one side. That works out to 0.0004"-0.0006" sticking out of both sides when installed into the frame. If this clearance is not there, tightening the swingarm nut will lock the swingarm in position, unable to pivot.

Sadly, I have had to remove MANY of the flanged bushings from an arm after someone spent a lot of time and $$ to rebuild it, only to find out it didn't work.
Another point, which I've outlined in several posts here (but don't think they've been accumulated anywhere) is: the collar's bearing clearance to the ID of the bushings must be tight, at less than 0.0010", because this clearance doubles across the width of this pivot, and then is multipled by 18" at the rear axle. In other words, 0.0010" of clearance in both bushing-to-collar becomes:
(0.001" x 2) x 18" = 0.036" side-to-side 'wiggle' at the rear axle.
That's more than 1/32" and almost Honda's wear limit. It will increase quickly during break-in, to usually become nearly twice that much in about 5000-8000 miles. The Honda usage spec was "less than 1mm" in the only reference I ever found in their bike manuals.

When I rebuild them I make bushing-to-collar clearances of 0.0004", using Oilite so the bushing will not heat up with use like the SAE660 bronze type does. I also have improved collars made for my jobs: not cheap (because of material costs), but the final build gets a Lifetime Warranty as the rear wheel will not 'wiggle' 0.040"/1mm (Honda's limit) before the engine likely wears out, if greased. I also convert the thru-bolts that do not have the grease passages of the early ones to have grease passages that deliver the grease from SAE fittings (so you can actually pump grease into them) thru the holes in the collar (that should be there, if not, add them) in a matched location, to grease-dispersion grooves in the actual bearing surface area, as per the early collars up to the 750K3 and 550K bikes. The 1st-year 350F also had these, the 2nd year did not, from Honda.

The measurement details to imitate this are noted in my book: I wanted everyone to have them so they could successfully rebuild this pivot - so I gladly give them to anyone who will listen! ;) :D
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&page=1&pageSize=10&q=my+cb750+book

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Offline Rookster

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Re: K1 750 - Going Back Together Questions
« Reply #24 on: April 08, 2024, 08:33:27 AM »
ZT, you can see what happens to the original arrangement by Honda.  The plastic end caps break.  The felt washers tear.  Why replace those parts when it will only happen again in the future.  Sure new end caps will last for a bit but will ultimately either wear to be ineffective or break.  Regardless of what has been posted here the top hat style swingarm bushing by Kibblewhite is an upgrade and supports the collar all the way to the end of the swingarm.  They have to be fitted to the collar by either reaming or honing after installation.  You then just use the cupped washers and throw out those plastic and felt parts.  You should be able to pick up the Kibblewhite bushings for under $40.

Scott