Topic: Specific question: Mobil 1 and clutch

[wiretender]

Haven't found any around where I live.

Autozone carries it here.

[Bob Wessner]

I did find a source not too far away, but looks like it costs about $10.00/qt! Is that right? Is it just me? It seems when they put the word "motorcycle" on the label my wallet twitches. What I'm currently using is the same price as Honda's oil.

[BobbyR]

Many of the 10K other oil threads convinced me to change to Rotella. I think i will stay there. If it is good enough for a Diesel, it iis good enough for me.

[wiretender]

I did find a source not too far away, but looks like it costs about $10.00/qt! Is that right? Is it just me? It seems when they put the word "motorcycle" on the label my wallet twitches. What I'm currently using is the same price as Honda's oil.

AZone prices it at something like $8.19 per qt for 10-40 and $8.39 for the 20-50. They also have it tucked off around the corner in it's own special (Cha ching) place. 

[Johnie]

2 Questions:
Anything wrong with using Pennzoil 10W40 in my KO?
I heard putting synthetic in these older bikes will cause gaskets leaks?  (True or False)
I already have a slight head gasket leak in the fins and do not want to make it worse.

[eldar]

I did the rotella T synth this spring and never changed the oil at all this summer. It has worked great.

[Bob Wessner]

2 Questions:
Anything wrong with using Pennzoil 10W40 in my KO?
I heard putting synthetic in these older bikes will cause gaskets leaks?  (True or False)
I already have a slight head gasket leak in the fins and do not want to make it worse.

Though we like to pass the winter months talking about what oil is best , I think that any quality 10w40 oil will be just fine. I ran it in mine for years. I'm just a bit anal now, and have a curious affection for synthetic oil properties. I have had no gasket leak problems so far anyway and it has been in there for a few miles now.

[tsp37]

I put 20w-50 Valvoline synthetic in my bike with the 12000 mi oil change, and I am leaking oil from the cam cover.  Previously I have used Valvoline and Castrol 20w-50 dino oil.  I have had the bike for three summers and it had 2400 miles on it when I bought it.  The engine is clean on the inside.

When I changed the plugs at 4000 mi. I didn't have a deep socket to reach the plugs and I had to take the cam cover off.  I did not replace the gaskets.  The slow leaking may have started then, but I have never had to add oil between changes until I went synthetic.  I will change the cam cover gaskets during the winter down time and hope that fixes the oil consumption.

I have had no clutch issues and any change in the shifting is beyond my notice.

[Terry in Australia]

What model bike, TSP? 

[HondaMan]

Mobil 1 Turbodiesel 5-40 full synthetic oil = no clutch slippage problems

That's the one.

Why, when M1 has oils specifically for motorcycles?

 http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Motorcycle_Oil_FAQs.aspx

Excellent WT: thanks. That's just what I was looking for.... 

[HondaMan]

I put 20w-50 Valvoline synthetic in my bike with the 12000 mi oil change, and I am leaking oil from the cam cover.  Previously I have used Valvoline and Castrol 20w-50 dino oil.  I have had the bike for three summers and it had 2400 miles on it when I bought it.  The engine is clean on the inside.

When I changed the plugs at 4000 mi. I didn't have a deep socket to reach the plugs and I had to take the cam cover off.  I did not replace the gaskets.  The slow leaking may have started then, but I have never had to add oil between changes until I went synthetic.  I will change the cam cover gaskets during the winter down time and hope that fixes the oil consumption.

I have had no clutch issues and any change in the shifting is beyond my notice.

This was my experience with Valvoline synth also: it has such good detergent action that it works away the sealant on the gaskets (but, this was in cars, not bikes). Newer engines use more viton technologies to contain the synthetics.

[HondaMan]

I get Amsoil at Gi Joe's here in Oregon.  I have also ordered stuff from their website.

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcv.aspx

Thanks for the link!

[HondaMan]

I've seen and heard a lot about the Amsoil, but never can find it. Where do you get it, and do they have a 10w50 or 20w50 racing (i.e., low detergent) type?

Go the their home page and click "find dealer near you", near the center of the page.
Put in your zip code.

http://www.amsoil.com/Index.aspx

Cheers,

Thanks for the link, TT!
I'm gonna try this stuff in my trusty Ford, next. Maybe the bike, later. For now, I want to try the Mobil 1 20w50 next Spring, with my new (by then) tranny.

[GammaFlat]

I have been extremely happy with Amsoil.  Pay close attention as you first use it.  Call it anecdotal evidence, but I'm certain that my car engines run quieter on it.  It seems to me that cold starts are smoother too except for the fact that warm-ups seem to take longer (which is probably a good sign).  I am willing to run synthetic for longer than regular oil which helps offset some of the extra cost. 

I have always been worried about running it in motorcycles because of bad things I've read and heard regarding clutches.  My next oil change will be one kind or another of synthetic on the 750 because of what I've read here...  and my father-in-law has run synthetic in his GoldWing and been happy with it and experienced no clutch problems. 

Maybe the stories about the clutches are based on older formulations or are folklore like "use synthetic and your engine will leak like a sieve".  (The only leaks I have to report are when I try to re-use the aluminum "crush" washer on the drain plug of my cars - doesn't somebody make a more re-usable solution for that problem?) 

I understand that synthetics are worse to get on your skin than regular motor oil (carcinogen I think).  Rubber gloves are $5 per 100 at Harbor Freight. 

[tsp37]

What model bike, TSP?

I've got an '82 650 Nighthawk with 2200 mi. since the change to synthetic, and I have added one quart.  I cannot rule out the possibility that the leak is from the head gasket, but the mess appears to be heaviest around the cam cover/head.

[Terry in Australia]

Thanks TSP, well I just rebuilt my K6 engine with an RC 836 kit, Mike Rieck Head etc etc, and all new gaskets, so once I do the 500 mile 'break in" using mineral oil, I'll dump the oil and filter and refill it with full synthetic, (My BMW K1100LT has only used Shell full synthetic since 1993 and is showing no problems after 100,000 miles) and see how it goes.

Sadly I need to remove my oil cooler to fit my new 4 into 1 pipe today, (beats me why "race pipe" manufacturers don't assume we'll fit oil coolers too?) so I hope the full synthetic goes some way to providing    the protection I'm about to lose. Cheers, Terry. 

[Bob Wessner]

Hey, Terry, you need to move to a cooler climate.

[ofreen]

To answer the original question, a friend of mine has been using Mobil 1 in his Pacific Coast for the last 25,000 miles.  He uses the auto version of the oil bought at Walmart.  He has had no problems with his clutch.  I asked him why he didn't use the motorcycle version, and he said he didn't know it existed.

Somebody mentioned Pennzoil.  I used a lot of Pennzoil in my cars back in the 70s because it was cheap at the Pay'N'Save.  That was until I tore one of the engines down.  It was a Chev 283 and I had never seen so much sludge in an engine.  Then I had to replace an intake maniflod gasket in my '75 F250 with a 360.  Same story, so much sludge that you couldn't see the rockers under it.  I ran into other engines that were sludged up, and they had the same common denominator.  They had been run with either Pennzoil or Quaker State oil.  I talked to a lot of others with the same experience and have been told it is because of the high level of paraffin in those two oils.  I don't know if that is true and I don't know if those oils are the same as they used to be, but I don't use them.

[Terry in Australia]

Hey, Terry, you need to move to a cooler climate.

No thanks Bob, I'd rather sweat than freeze, and I'm sure icy cold beer can't taste as good in freezing cold weather? Ha ha, Cheers, Terry.

[tsp37]

This was my experience with Valvoline synth also: it has such good detergent action that it works away the sealant on the gaskets

That sounds like a good reason to NOT use synthetic.  Maybe a synthetic blend is a good compromise?

I say hot weather is for motorcycles.  Cold weather is for nursing an Irish stout and #$%*ing about the weather.

[HondaMan]

To answer the original question, a friend of mine has been using Mobil 1 in his Pacific Coast for the last 25,000 miles.  He uses the auto version of the oil bought at Walmart.  He has had no problems with his clutch.  I asked him why he didn't use the motorcycle version, and he said he didn't know it existed.

Somebody mentioned Pennzoil.  I used a lot of Pennzoil in my cars back in the 70s because it was cheap at the Pay'N'Save.  That was until I tore one of the engines down.  It was a Chev 283 and I had never seen so much sludge in an engine.  Then I had to replace an intake maniflod gasket in my '75 F250 with a 360.  Same story, so much sludge that you couldn't see the rockers under it.  I ran into other engines that were sludged up, and they had the same common denominator.  They had been run with either Pennzoil or Quaker State oil.  I talked to a lot of others with the same experience and have been told it is because of the high level of paraffin in those two oils.  I don't know if that is true and I don't know if those oils are the same as they used to be, but I don't use them.

My 1979 T-Bird that I bought 10 years was like that, and that caused its demise. I asked the PO what oil he had been using, thinking I'd stay with it, but I don't like that oil. I changed the oil to Valvoline and after 500 miles, it started dissolving that waxy stuff. It all plugged up the oil pickup screen and burned up the crankshaft bearings! I had to replace the engine. That's nasty stuff, Pennz and Quaker State.

[754]

I want to know what Ofreen is running..??

 Anyone with 200K on their bike I will take the time to listen to..

[ofreen]

I want to know what Ofreen is running..??

 Anyone with 200K on their bike I will take the time to listen to..

It's only 108,000 on the 750.  I've been using BMW non-synthetic in it for several years now.  Made by Spectro, I'm told.  Here's the exciting history of oil in my bike -

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=25996.msg266847#msg266847

My oil and filter change regimen has been a little controversial.

[BobbyR]

I want to know what Ofreen is running..??

 Anyone with 200K on their bike I will take the time to listen to..

It's only 108,000 on the 750.  I've been using BMW non-synthetic in it for several years now.  Made by Spectro, I'm told.  Here's the exciting history of oil in my bike -

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=25996.msg266847#msg266847

My oil and filter change regimen has been a little controversial.

Well considering the longevity and repair record of the motor I would say there is no controversy. 

[754]

Too bad you mixed  brands of oil throughout the life of your motor.

I suppose that indicates though, that none of what you used was bad for it.

I usually got to extraordinary lengths to stick to one brand of oil, then when the motor does come apart you can see how it worked.