@twotired, im not trying to remove the stator,i'm trying to remove the cover to test it.
You don't have to access the actual alternator for testing. Only replacement. All the wires from it/to it, go to that electrical panel under the left side cover. Look for yellows from the stator going to the Rectifier. The white and green Field wires attach to the Vreg.
i have new battery and im pretty sure the fuses are going to need replacing.
Look closley at the fuse block base plastic. The fuse amperage is raised lettering molded into it. DO use the correct fuse rating and the proper length (1 inch). If they are the wrong ones, then possibly there has been some fuse clip heating that the PO didn't understand and used larger fuses to compensate. This is why I told you to clean and polish the fuse clip contacts. There have been lots of posts about this in the tech Forum.
You seem to suggest removing the carbs should be the first thing I should do. How big of a job is this?
No. I asked how long the bike had been sitting, so I can access the neccessity. And, to remove the carb bowl drain screws to examine the drainage from each carb. If all is clean, why remove them? Most newbie's (and some veterans) curse the day (and all manner of objects) when they remove the carbs from the 550's. It's not difficult once you know what to do. It is tedious, and a bit of a wrestle. I avoid it unless, there's no other way, because it puts the old rubber couplers at risk. I suggest you determine if it is necessary before the attempt. If necessary, I can find the last post I where I explained the removal/install sequence.
Also, how can I test the rectifier and voltage regulator?
There is quite a bit of information in the electrics FAQ
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=1012.0 And, there have been quite a lot of posts on the subject as well. Perhaps a search would help your understanding?
If you have a multimeter, the first thing would be the measure the Vreg between the black and white terminals (disconnected). Should be close to zero ohms.
The rectifier can be tested by measuring across the red and green connections (disconnected). One meter lead polarity should read near infinity ohms. And, the other meter lead polarity should read very low ohms. (assuming your meter provides more than 0.7 V during the test). This will tell you if any diodes are shorted. You can test each of the six diodes for open, by measuring green to each yellow (both polarities) and then red to each yellow, (boh polarities). Again, one meter lead polarity should read near infinity ohms. And, the other meter lead polarity should read very low ohms.
Cheers,
