Topic: Tighten my chain or leave it be?

[blounstation]

So I'm getting ready to go on a 550 mile ride from Reno NV back to Portland and I noticed my chain seems to have too much slack, plus it's old and kind of rusty looking. I'm sure it's probably stretched out some but I can't really afford to replace it before I go so I'm wondering if I should try to tighten it or leave it alone until I get back? Also what size chain do I need once I replace it? I'm riding a 77 CB550F.

[Jv550]

Jeez, on a ride that long through all that countryside, I'd think twice about setting off with a bad chain. Sure hate to have the thing break on the highway...

[seaweb11]

Eat one less meal on your trip and buy a new chain if you need one.
Do you have a manual?
Have you done a search here for chain?

550 miles with a F3cked up chain, yeah sure, when do we leave

[blounstation]

I've already spent close to $1000 getting my car ready to go (towing my bike) so I'm really cutting it close with the price of gas even making it to Reno. I'm hopeing that gas will be less then what I budgeted so I can pick one up in Reno if I do actually need one, and plus my chain might be fine... I'm just wondering how to make sure it's good or verify it's jacked up. I ride my bike back and forth to work 5 days a week at 20 miles each way and it seems to do fine, but I'm also trying to think of all the possible problems before I take off. Thx

[seaweb11]

#1  Sit on bike.
#2 lean down, and with your weight on the bike lift up on the chain with a finger.
     - It should pull up a bit.........1/4-1/2inch
#3 if it is more than that tighten.

#4 once tightened it should still be on the centerstand.
#5 sit at the rear left side and rotate the wheel and watch to see how the individual links rotate over the rear sprocket.
   - Watch for 2 links bound together.
#6 If it's not to bad, clean it thoroughly and re lube it. Checking that the bound up links "if there were any" are free moving now.

After that you should be good to go

Sorry don't know what chain you need, but remember the golden rule.......change the chain....change the sprockets at the same time.
Now you will have to skip 2 meals

Sh*t happens on a bike at 60 real fast I hear.

[blounstation]

Right on. I sat on the bike and the chain moves up 1" so I'll add tightening to my list of things to do.  I did lube it with chain lube about a week ago. My bike doesn't have a center stand so can I still tighten it without getting it off the ground? Also I did a search and I think the 530x100 is the factory chain.

[cafe750]

Are you flat towing the bike? If you're towing it with the drive wheel on the ground, then you should take the chain off altogether...

[blounstation]

I have a 63 Nova Wagon and the bike will be on a trailer. I'm dropping the car off to get some work done.

[TwoTired]

You must first determine if your current chain has worn evenly before adjusting.

On the center stand, check chain deflection while rotating the rear wheel, if the deflection amount changes, adjust deflection while the springs are deflected by your weight, where it had the tightest deflection.

If your chain HAS tight spots, technically it should be replaced.  But, if the variance is less than 1/2 inch deflection, it can still be used, gingerly.  They wear faster and are more likely to break when transferring high power.

You could remove the master link and check the pins for wear, assuming the master link is as old as the rest of the chain.

Rust also means the chain was under lubricated.  Dry non-oring chains wear much faster. And a 550 ought not to have an oring chain on it, except for rare exceptions.


Cheers,