Topic: 'flat part' on starter... oops, maybe it's the charging system!

[Frankenkit]

Only that it's way different from my results.    Was that with the key on or not?  I did this with the key off. 

[coyotecowboy]

ummmm, did anyone ever have you check the battery disconnected with the charger on it?  If not, simply unhook the positive and negative sides, hook up your charger (NOT a trickle charger either, needs to have a boost setting if possible) put it on boost for a little bit, like 20-30 seconds, then check your reading.  If it reads in the normal range, 12.5 to 13.9 or so its probably ok, but if it pegs the meter (anything over 15) then the plates are sulfated or shorted and you have a bad battery.

HTH

[TwoTired]

If you are going to check rectifier diodes you must use enough voltage to activate the diodes.  A DMMs normal resistance scale will not do the trick.  The function knob should have a setting that depicts a diode.  Sort looks like this  --|<|--.  This setting uses enough voltage to activate diodes for checking.  You can check the red to green wires with one polarity it will give you a very small reading, and reversing the test lead polarity should give you a very high reading.

You check the rectifier wires with them disconnected from the bike.

If you wish to check the six individual diode, you must do 12 tests.  Green to each yellow (both meter lead polarity)   And then, Red to each yellow (both meter lead polarity).  Use the diode test function.
A diode allows conduction in one direction and presents high resistance when presented with the opposite polarity.

Cheers,

[martino1972]

Only that it's way different from my results.    Was that with the key on or not?  I did this with the key off. 

well,you have to disconnect it from the bikes harness,so it dont matter if key is on or off...
you are checking the r/r,right?? not the wireharnass...!!!!

[Frankenkit]

Doing as TT recommended:
first test, with black tester lead on red and red tester lead on green, I got 1.371.  In the reverse, it was "OL" overload.

for the six individual diodes,
red to the yellows was very close to 0.65 all the way across the board and OL when I reversed the tester leads... then the reverse when testing green to the yellows.

[martino1972]

from red to green and vice versa i got 1.27 and ol     
so thats not too far off....
did you do the reff test yet???

[TwoTired]

Sounds like you both have good rectifiers.

I'm impatient for the rpm vs battery voltage test. 

... and, of course, the ensuing ride report!

 

[Pinhead]

Sounds like you both have good rectifiers.

I'm impatient for the rpm vs battery voltage test. 

... and, of course, the ensuring ride report!

 

Agreed...

[martino1972]

Sounds like you both have good rectifiers.

I'm impatient for the rpm vs battery voltage test. 

... and, of course, the ensuring ride report!

 

Agreed...

yeah,she is sure leaving us in suspense.........

[Frankenkit]

Ha. Well. About that...


I set out to do that last night, and on starting the bike, realized I was having an 'issue' with my petcock/fuel system.  After the tank was coated, the hole in the bottom of the tank was too narrow for the fuel filter and the tube from the petcock to coexist peacefully- so they didn't.  I could fill the tank, turn it 'on' and nothing would come out at all.  Big. Problem.  Had to remove the tank fuel filter, then everything ran smoothly. .. but because of that, I now need an inline fuel filter- prone to bubbles and all that jazz. Filter was sitting there empty.  I had a 'feeling' and blasted out the breathing holes in the gas cap.  Flow resumed, but then it became evident I'd routed my throttle cables wrong and they were binding a bit, though they hadn't been before.

SO seeing as I couldn't easily stick my hand in there and adjust the throttle cable with the engine hot, I just unbolted the R/R and took it up to the apartment. 

So tonight after work (it's ok, I get home earlyish) I will check for a cosmic kick-me sign, then re-route the cables and test at rpms.

[Hush]

I'm not going to say I told you so Kits .....but!

[Frankenkit]

*hangs head* yeah, yeah, I know...

[martino1972]

got your rpm test done,or are you tangled up in trottle cables.. 

[Hush]

This is a really interesting thread, half of it I understand.
I'll bookmark it for if my 650 packs a power wobbly.

[Frankenkit]

Rerouted the throttle cables last night, found my gas 'leak'... my one carb is overflowing, just a steady, slow drip from the drain hose.  Tightened the screw to the drain, but it didn't stop the drip.  Didn't want to mess with it last night though, it was already dark.  will prob try to find time tonight if it's not raining...

[Hush]

I can't remember Kits, did you replace the float valves in the carbs?
If not, doing that will probably cure that annoying drip.

[Frankenkit]

...float valves?  Hey, do you have to turn the petcock 'off' everytime you park these bikes, or not?  Someone said that if you didn't turn 'off' non-vacuum petcocks, they'll flood the carbs...  is that true?  It *is* only the one that's furthest to the left when the bike leans on her sidestand...

[TwoTired]

In the ideal world, the float valves should block the inlet when the bowl is filled to the correct level of gas, even when the petcock is on.  (<--- note the period)

The ideal world doesn't have fuel contamination, sticky float pivots or needles, irregular or worn float needle seats and cones, floats that have lost bouyancy, mis-adjusted floats, or stand pipes that have cracks in them.
Some of us have visited the ideal world, found it boring and having a somewhat expensive cost of living, and simply prefer to shut the fuel petcock off when the bike isn't in use.


Cheers,

[martino1972]

even when i stop for a really good tasting coffee at tim hortons,not starbucks( thats another tread) i shut off the fuel valve,habbit i guess,but i hate to come back after the coffee,just to find out that my bike decided to go take an expensive pee.......

[Tim in Ohio]

I just wanted to confess that I have been voyeuristically lurking on this thread and loving it.   I find that I can't wait for the next installment.  I am more hooked than the first couple of seasons of "Lost"...
Thanks everyone for sharing your knowledge (and your struggles)...  it is a great learning tool for a noob amatuer bike mechanic like myself.

[Frankenkit]

Then check out the forum thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=30602.0
"1980 CB650c resto by a total newbie"...
Same newbie, same bike, same bat channel.  

[Frankenkit]

Hey guys, this is Kits' other half. I know you are anxiously waiting to find out what's up with her voltage check so I checked it while she is as work. Alright... just sitting, not running, it's a tad under 12v. Crank 'er up, still the same. Rev 'er up... yup, still the same. Flipped to high beam on the headlight, dropped a 1/10th or so but right back up when back on low beam. Never over 12v tho.

Just out of curiosity, I took her for a quick spin up the block and back. D@mn, that critter wants to get out and go!!!  I have a Suzuki Savage 650 and it's not nearly as smooth, fast or beastly as this CB. I want one! That was all kinds of fun. I think mine is headed for craigslist. Anyway, after the ride, battery was still just below 12v.

BTW, thanks for all of the help you are giving her and your patience. There is precious little "extra" time in our lives these days to tinker on the bikes and she is so jazzed about getting this baby out for rides on a daily basis. You've made it a lot easier to get it finished. (and cheaper!  )

Ok, back to your regularly scheduled Kits. Goin' to get her now.

~MickeyX

[Hush]

Kits has another half? Then she's only half the girl I thought she was ha ha.
Hey Kits, tell your partner to go get a decent bike, one with balls or you know they will just steal your ride all the time.

[WFO]

RPM test PLEASE!!! 

[Frankenkit]

...that was the RPM test.  It didn't (apparently?) go over 12v even at 5,000 rpms.