Author Topic: Fork adjustment. pics added  (Read 2652 times)

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Offline PJ

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Fork adjustment. pics added
« on: September 09, 2008, 01:57:16 PM »
My 77 cb750k started life with one of those big Hondaline farings on the front of it. I had to aquire the pieces to convert back to a normal headlight and turn signal setup. The factory turn signal stalks were cut off with a hack saw by the dealer that installed the monstrosity :-[ This brings me to something that I have always wondered about.. Did the dealers change the fork springs to something stiffer when installing the fairing? My bike always seemed to sit at the end of the fork travel almost chopperish with noone on it and not hardly compressed at all with me on board. Today I decided to pull the forks up in the tripple clamps to replicate how it would ride with a shorter/softer front spring. I have heard stories of weird handling and such when doing this. So I moved the tubes up 20mm, no science just seemed to look like the right amount and made the bike sit level. I can say that after an hour ride it does seem to stay leaned over in the corners on the brakes much better than before and it seems to have done away with some wiggles that I thought were "just the bike". I ran it up to 80mph and let it come back down to 30mph with no hands and it seems solid, not even a hint of shake. Should I look for a different set of springs and put the fork back, or new springs and leave it? Or just leave it as is. It all started because I really didn't like the look of the long fork. Now what?
peace.
« Last Edit: September 09, 2008, 02:14:28 PM by PJ »

Offline PJ

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Re: Fork adjustment.
« Reply #1 on: September 09, 2008, 02:12:13 PM »
Added pics..




Offline PJ

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Re: Fork adjustment. pics added
« Reply #2 on: September 09, 2008, 08:29:54 PM »
bump?

Offline bryanj

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Re: Fork adjustment. pics added
« Reply #3 on: September 09, 2008, 09:10:06 PM »
looks to me like it might have extended tubes in it
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Offline seaweb11

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Re: Fork adjustment. pics added
« Reply #4 on: September 09, 2008, 09:19:05 PM »
Look stock to me.  Have you drained the forks of the old fork oil and replaced?

Offline PJ

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Re: Fork adjustment. pics added
« Reply #5 on: September 09, 2008, 11:20:10 PM »
I have considered changing the oil in the fork and pulling the springs for a measurement, I'll have to find a spec. Is there a measurement for the tubes? Anyone have a K7 fork to measure?

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Re: Fork adjustment. pics added
« Reply #6 on: September 10, 2008, 04:35:55 AM »
Stock spring is 19.075 in length and should come very near to the top of the fork tube so the cap has substantial resistance going back on.  Here is the manual for the specs. under steering and front suspension bookmark on the .pdf : 

http://www2.tech.purdue.edu/At/Facstaff/mleasure/Personal/HondaCB750.pdf

Offline Raul CB750K1

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Re: Fork adjustment. pics added
« Reply #7 on: September 10, 2008, 04:42:14 AM »
By modifying the clamp point on the tubes you are not simulating a change in springs. You are changing the bike geometry, but the spring only affects how much does it dive when braking or going over a bump. If you like it this way then leave it like that. I don't think anybody who installed a fairing would take the hassle to change springs.

Offline bigsherm

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Re: Fork adjustment. pics added
« Reply #8 on: September 10, 2008, 05:20:11 AM »
PJ-

     Sweet looking bike!

     I have a 78 750K, virtually the same bike.  I did the exact thing you did, plus I installed shoks that were substantially longer than stock.  Sliding the tubes up is a trick road racers do all the time to put more weight on the front, making the front feel more planted, but more responsive, too.  If you could keep sliding them up (if your handlebars weren't in the way) you eventually reach a point where the steering would get too twitchy (not to mention the front tire would eventually contact the headers or some other part of the bike when you braked and compressed the font suspension).

     Somewhere in betwen is where you like it.  Within reason, it's perfectly ok to make these adjustments.  If you still want more front end bias, longer shocks will do the same thing.  If you want to try a little higher on the back, you can always adjust the preload n the rear shocks to make the rear sit higher.

     People often make the mistake of thinking more spring preload makes the bike stiffer on that end.  Not true.  As long as the spring compresses any amount more when you get on the bike, it is still settling to the same amount of compression as always.  You're only making the ride height higher or lower when you adjust preload.  It's a hard concept to grasp sometimes, but it's true.

Sherm
« Last Edit: September 10, 2008, 05:24:26 AM by bigsherm »

Offline Buber

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Re: Fork adjustment. pics added
« Reply #9 on: September 10, 2008, 05:38:59 AM »
     People often make the mistake of thinking more spring preload makes the bike stiffer on that end.  Not true.  As long as the spring compresses any amount more when you get on the bike, it is still settling to the same amount of compression as always.  You're only making the ride height higher or lower when you adjust preload.  It's a hard concept to grasp sometimes, but it's true.

Hmmm, having bottoming forks, and not having much money available for the moment, I just put under the caps an inch, maybe inch and half spacer, and there's much better handling now - stiffer forks.
Will do something similar with a spacer on the rear until I will get money to buy shocks..
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Offline PJ

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Re: Fork adjustment. pics added
« Reply #10 on: September 10, 2008, 06:47:52 AM »
Thanks eveyone, I may play with them some more then. I did notice that with the Mac pipe setup the centerstand has never retracted *all* the way, it rides on the pipes. I already drag it sometimes on the left side, not sure how much lower I can go with the forks before this is a serious problem. I'll take Sherms advice and raise the rear some just for fun.

Thanks Sherm, I really like my K7! ;D