Author Topic: anyone here ever welded cast iron? (Read 3862 times)

fuzzybutt · « **on:** February 14, 2009, 04:18:40 PM »

i want to weld end to end 2 ford v-8 crankshafts for a mailbox post and i'm wondering what, if anything i need to do to weld the cast iron together.

Steve F · « **Reply #1 on:** February 14, 2009, 04:39:06 PM »

Quote from: fuzzybutt on February 14, 2009, 04:18:40 PM

i want to weld end to end 2 ford v-8 crankshafts for a mailbox post and i'm wondering what, if anything i need to do to weld the cast iron together.

Check with Spikey, since that's his thing.

Grumpol · « **Reply #2 on:** February 14, 2009, 04:48:57 PM »

You can weld it, i`ve welded up cast vices that held up well until some idiot starts using them as an anvil, thats when the casting breaks along side the weld.
I guess if you V the two ends nicely and get a good solid bead in there you should be right.
I`m talking mig here, stick is something i dont know about, never really was that good with it.

bwaller · « **Reply #3 on:** February 14, 2009, 05:04:36 PM »

I'm not a weldor so take this with a grain of salt, but I always heat cast iron with my torch before welding.

Markcb750 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 14, 2009, 05:07:50 PM »

Crank shafts should weld nicely with TIG or Stick. Crank shafts are generaly forgings and/or a high grade of cast iron.

Harder to weld an engine block or head, but it can be done with the right settings and rods.

mattcb350f · « **Reply #5 on:** February 14, 2009, 05:11:05 PM »

Quote from: bwaller on February 14, 2009, 05:04:36 PM

I'm not a weldor so take this with a grain of salt, but I always heat cast iron with my torch before welding.

Yup. That's how I've seen it done too. You have to get the parts as hot as possible before welding. I believe you should also use welding rods (if using an arc) that are intended for cast iron welding.

I think there's a real art to it, but I think for a mailbox post the dangers of failure aren't as critical

Matt.

fuzzybutt · « **Reply #6 on:** February 14, 2009, 05:33:07 PM »

i have a lincoln handler 140 mig welder. i can mig and fluxcore weld with it. i have a bottle of 85/15 on it now

PxTx · « **Reply #7 on:** February 14, 2009, 06:13:04 PM »

I'm not a welder either, but I've helped some great welding buddies do some cast iron welding. When we have welded the tubes on 12 bolt chevy axle housings to the cast iron center section, this is how it has been done.

Heat cast iron with a torch, use a stick welder with nickle rod and in reverse polarity (for additional heat).

DRam · « **Reply #8 on:** February 14, 2009, 10:01:36 PM »

A friend of my father's (both Dad and his friend passed away long ago) used to weld valve seats in engine blocks and heads. As I recall Dad said Smitty had a pit large enough for the block and him in his shop. He heated the item to be repaired to red heat then, wearing a heat resistant suit of some sort, got down in the pit and gas welded whatever it was.

Not saying you need a special pit and all that, but heating at least around the areas to be welded before welding might be a good idea. Of course, as said above, a weld on a mailbox stand most likely isn't as critical as and engine block or head that will be put back in service.

mark · « **Reply #9 on:** February 14, 2009, 11:00:18 PM »

sounds like a stick-welder project to me. I've had good results with Forney Nomacast rod from the farm store on projects like the "Miller Locker" in this rear axle.....

their aluminum rod worked pretty good for repair on the bumper, too - took a pretty hard hit to break it.

kirkn · « **Reply #10 on:** February 15, 2009, 06:38:12 AM »

Geez, for a mailbox post? You could probably just get away with JB Weld....

754 · « **Reply #11 on:** February 15, 2009, 09:04:00 AM »

Are you talking snout to snout so that the flanges are on outer ends?
Then machine a sleeve and press together, or, machine a sleeve, slit it, install cranks, then weld... it will tighten up! then you are just welding steel.,,just a thought..

mark · « **Reply #12 on:** February 16, 2009, 09:41:45 AM »

another wire welded solution........

screw a bunch of the flywheel bolts into the flanges and then weld the steel bolts together..... then...

(1)bend up a piece of sheet that the mailbox can screw on to and bolt it to the crank snout.... or...

(2)weld scrap of pipe to scrap of plate, stick box to it, and slip over crank snout. secure with bolt... pin... JB... bubble gum?

754 · « **Reply #13 on:** February 16, 2009, 09:54:44 AM »

Just use smaller bolts thru the flanges, weld the nut to the bolt to prevent removal.

Then mount box to a pooched Harmonic Balancer.. TA DA !!

RUBBER MOUNT ..

fuzzybutt · « **Reply #14 on:** February 16, 2009, 10:01:53 AM »

Quote from: 754 on February 16, 2009, 09:54:44 AM

Just use smaller bolts thru the flanges, weld the nut to the bolt to prevent removal.

Then mount box to a pooched Harmonic Balancer.. TA DA !!

RUBBER MOUNT ..

thats exactly how i'm mounting the box, a trashed 428 balancer, on 2 FE motor cranks, a 428 and a 406

johnny_from_bel · « **Reply #15 on:** February 16, 2009, 10:39:52 AM »

I have a welders diploma.
You can easely stick weld cast iron if :

- you use good cast iron welding sticks.
- heat the piece to about 200 °C and let it cool slowely after welding. Cover it if you can.

fuzzybutt · « **Reply #16 on:** February 16, 2009, 01:39:19 PM »

all i have is a mig welder, i'm going to heat it up with an oxy-acetelyne torch red hot then hit it with the mig at high amperage. i'd normally feel some guilt about ruining 2 rare cranks but the 428 one has a crack in one of the rod journals and the 406 one has been turned down one time too many.

johnny_from_bel · « **Reply #17 on:** February 19, 2009, 02:19:51 PM »

Quote from: fuzzybutt on February 16, 2009, 01:39:19 PM

all i have is a mig welder, i'm going to heat it up with an oxy-acetelyne torch red hot then hit it with the mig at high amperage. i'd normally feel some guilt about ruining 2 rare cranks but the 428 one has a crack in one of the rod journals and the 406 one has been turned down one time too many.

If you plan on destroying the piece. Just hit it with a hammer.

Rocking-M · « **Reply #18 on:** February 19, 2009, 03:20:59 PM »

Sounds like a good use for Ford cranks to me.

Heat it and nickle rods will do the trick. I worked as a welder in
power plant for a while and once welded a cast iron step. The fat
fellows that walked on it everyday never broke it.

fuzzybutt · « **Reply #19 on:** February 19, 2009, 05:50:43 PM »

well it seems to be solid. i'm going to wait till it's warm enough then i'll paint it then get to my custom mailbox, a horse trailer with 2 horse tails sticking out the door.

Markcb750 · « **Reply #20 on:** February 19, 2009, 05:55:39 PM »

I like number 3

Spikeybike · « **Reply #21 on:** February 19, 2009, 07:13:43 PM »

welding cast anything is tricky,

i'm assuming your migwelder runs on 110, if so here's what i would do , get the surfaces your gonna weld together super clean ,grind off all the rust, paint, oil whatever. crank up that little 110 as far as it goes . and stitch weld it , make sure you go real slow, and if it bubbles up with contamination, just wait a second till it solidifies , then either just keep going or grind off the bubble if you want it pretty

i think this would hold just fine for a mailbox , no worries at all fuzz

fuzzybutt · « **Reply #22 on:** February 19, 2009, 07:23:01 PM »

that second pic spikey looks like a chevy straight 6 crank. a barn i worked for when i first moved here had a horse trailer mailbox and i just fell in love with it. i''m making one to look just like my horse trailer.

tramp · « **Reply #23 on:** February 20, 2009, 03:51:10 AM »

need some stainless steel for welding cast iron
most everything else will crack
cool slowly

Rocking-M · « **Reply #24 on:** February 20, 2009, 03:52:15 AM »

Post pics when your done.

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Author Topic: anyone here ever welded cast iron? (Read 3862 times)

fuzzybutt

Markcb750

fuzzybutt

fuzzybutt

fuzzybutt

Rocking-M

fuzzybutt

Markcb750

fuzzybutt

Rocking-M