Topic: Billet blocks....who will pay...pics added 9/7/09...10/24....2/10

[Doctor_D]

Someone needs to get one of these on a dyno.  Please don't make me have to build a 125-x12 cammed, 1-liter CB just to see what can be done with these things.

[Tintop]

Mike, way back on page 4 (I think) you originally indicated that the blocks would be available with bore sizing down to suit 836 (65mm??).  Is that still the case?

[MRieck]

Mike, way back on page 4 (I think) you originally indicated that the blocks would be available with bore sizing down to suit 836 (65mm??).  Is that still the case?

That would have to take place during the manufacturing process Brian. Unfortunately the last batch is done and I have ave about 15 cylinders left....no plans for making more in the near future.

[Tintop]

That's kind of what I thought Mike, but figured I'd ask.  Two questions then...what is the minimum piston size the ones you have been bored for? /  Could one of the ones you have be remachined & sleeved to take a smaller piston??   Realize the second one kind of defeats the heat loss benefit, but the bigger fin area would be an improvement over a stock barrel.

[MRieck]

That's kind of what I thought Mike, but figured I'd ask.  Two questions then...what is the minimum piston size the ones you have been bored for? /  Could one of the ones you have be remachined & sleeved to take a smaller piston??   Realize the second one kind of defeats the heat loss benefit, but the bigger fin area would be an improvement over a stock barrel.

70mm is the minimum. A stock sleeve is to small for the current bore.

[Tintop]

Thanks for the reply Mike.  I was thinking of the CycleX, or Dynoman 915 kit with sleeves.

[MRieck]

Thanks for the reply Mike.  I was thinking of the CycleX, or Dynoman 915 kit with sleeves.

What's the OD of the 915 sleeve. I can't remember off hand but it would probably work...just mill off the  bore extensions on the bottom of the cylinder and bore a bit for the sleeve. You would certainly have plenty of meat in between the cylinders.

[Tintop]

I'll get the information and we can go from there Mike.

[MRieck]

I'll get the information and we can go from there Mike.

Sounds like a plan.

[johno]

Hi Mike,
I know this info will be on the thread somewhere but its a bloody long thread so being a lazy arsed Sunday afternoon I'll ask instead of looking.

What heads are the barrels set up to suit K or late F ? or knowing you... adaptable for both ?

Dont get your hopes up yet but this competative spirit between the Suzuki waterbottle record holder is reaching a new high level, paying the crap out of each other on DLRA website and I'm thinking stuff the class business ,   its waterbottle versus CB honda and If I cant make it run 150MPH in 750 trim I might drop on one of your barrels to run more than 150 MPH and give Finny la Suzuki man the bird when I pull back into the pits.

Mans got to have some pride, its what makes it fun.          let me know re the heads Mike.
cheers johno

[cbornotcb]

 I'm thinking stuff the class business ,   its waterbottle versus CB honda and If I cant make it run 150MPH in 750 trim I might drop on one of your barrels to run more than 150 MPH and give Finny la Suzuki man the bird when I pull back into the pits.

Ha Ha Johno, you're sounding like me when I was dong the postie bike thing, The only "postie" left on the Postie, was the steering head, forks, and kick starter, and it jumped out of 125, and into 175 capacity breaks
Its still waiting in the bleaches, chock full of new OEM and Carillo bits (It earned a record of 87 mph with GayBay goodies innitt)
It's still "MY Postie"
Tiny

[Sam Green Racing]

That's my mate Tiny, give em the finger mate. Haha.

Sam.

[Medyo Bastos]

Thanks for the reply Mike.  I was thinking of the CycleX, or Dynoman 915 kit with sleeves.

What's the OD of the 915 sleeve. I can't remember off hand but it would probably work...just mill off the  bore extensions on the bottom of the cylinder and bore a bit for the sleeve. You would certainly have plenty of meat in between the cylinders.

I have a used set of 888cc sleeves, let me know if you have any interest

[pencil9]

I'll hazard a guess.....to get the CNC specs you need to reproduce it in metal??

[PeWe]

Thread needs more ....
Billet block in my garage thanks to Mike!
The entire block has harder surface than I expected. Sleeves/bores have a steelish look and feel.   No swampy soft alu here!

71.25mm JE pistons, Dynoman 1000cc, crowns something between the 10.5:1 to 12.5:1 since they are adapted for 24.4cc chambers to ensure 10.5:1
My first plan was to use an old block to bore more and insert sleeves for these pistons. Eventual oil leak, weld job for air wents between 1-2 and 3-4 made billet block to a simple choice. The added initial cost will probably end up in less rework and no problems later on. (the old cyl might get the big bore sleeves anyway after weld. spares are good)

I have to do the case manually since one case stud is stucked and not possible to leave for professional machine shop. Tried heat and real excessive force to remove it. I must have used Loctite 272.
Will grind this weekend. Base gasket help to mark where to remove alu from top case.

K Head has 34mm in valves, cam will be DP315. APE ultra crank w carillos, undercutted gears, primary hub got new rubbers last spring.
Exhaust HM300 replicas. Carbs Mikuni TMR32
It will be interesting to take it to Dyno when assembled and carbs jetted correctly. I'll check with WegoIII A/F gauge, sniffer in pipe by pipe to make sure that it will be correct. Dyno 6 months from now...?

Grind case and file piston ring ends to correct gap this weekend. Pics below with pistons for display, nr 4 on cyl 1. I've marked them all after I have checked the Dynoman instruction and verified with head so the cut outs will line up with the valves. Verify that all have same weight.
 I look forward to verify piston/head/valves/squish with clay....

edit: added one pic

[bwaller]

Should make for a good package. 

[PeWe]

Yes, I'm rather sure it will improve The clean design of the cylinder block in Laverda tripple style demands clean head, fresh paint on cases and all other details to match.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

 

[Bill/BentON Racing]

And strong as can be wrist pins, lol, Bill

[MRieck]

Yes, I'm rather sure it will improve The clean design of the cylinder block in Laverda tripple style demands clean head, fresh paint on cases and all other details to match.

Absolutely. It does give the engine a very beefy look.

[PeWe]

Yes, I'm rather sure it will improve The clean design of the cylinder block in Laverda tripple style demands clean head, fresh paint on cases and all other details to match.

Absolutely. It does give the engine a very beefy look.

Like Japauto 1000 if comparing with other Honda but more beautiful design. The metal has a very nice surface as mentioned earlier. Alu is anodized?

Grinded case with base gasket and marker pen as guide. Cylinder almost fit, a few spots need more grinding. I'll wrap on a turn of paper tape around the sleeves so the marks will guide were to grind more and avoid grind too much were not needed. The cyl studs must be glued next time for max strenght I guess.

Must fix the case surface with 400 paper as I did to the head. Viton steel base gasket can accept very thin layer of sealer? On case side only if not abolutely scratch free.

Grinded hole thru the case on alternator side today! Big bore makes Big holes!

EDIT: I'll double check the wrist pins delivered with the JE pistons.
My old RC forged 836 pistons with teflon pucks have lighter pins, thinner...

[Retro Rocket]

Yes, I'm rather sure it will improve The clean design of the cylinder block in Laverda tripple style demands clean head, fresh paint on cases and all other details to match.

Absolutely. It does give the engine a very beefy look.

Like Japauto 1000 if comparing with other Honda but more beautiful design. The metal has a very nice surface as mentioned earlier. Alu is anodized?

Grinded case with base gasket and marker pen as guide. Cylinder almost fit, a few spots need more grinding. I'll wrap on a turn of paper tape around the sleeves so the marks will guide were to grind more and avoid grind too much were not needed. The cyl studs must be glued next time for max strenght I guess.

Must fix the case surface with 400 paper as I did to the head. Viton steel base gasket can accept very thin layer of sealer? On case side only if not abolutely scratch free.

Grinded hole thru the case on alternator side today! Big bore makes Big holes!

EDIT: I'll double check the wrist pins delivered with the JE pistons.
My old RC forged 836 pistons with teflon pucks have lighter pins, thinner...

Watch those lighter pins, Bill Benton just destroyed a new engine, it was the light weight pin that let go....

[MRieck]

Yes, I'm rather sure it will improve The clean design of the cylinder block in Laverda tripple style demands clean head, fresh paint on cases and all other details to match.

Absolutely. It does give the engine a very beefy look.

Like Japauto 1000 if comparing with other Honda but more beautiful design. The metal has a very nice surface as mentioned earlier. Alu is anodized?

Grinded case with base gasket and marker pen as guide. Cylinder almost fit, a few spots need more grinding. I'll wrap on a turn of paper tape around the sleeves so the marks will guide were to grind more and avoid grind too much were not needed. The cyl studs must be glued next time for max strenght I guess.

Must fix the case surface with 400 paper as I did to the head. Viton steel base gasket can accept very thin layer of sealer? On case side only if not abolutely scratch free.

Grinded hole thru the case on alternator side today! Big bore makes Big holes!

EDIT: I'll double check the wrist pins delivered with the JE pistons.
My old RC forged 836 pistons with teflon pucks have lighter pins, thinner...

Bead blasted with fine bead Per

[PeWe]

Ok, glass beads? It's usally more harsh and glittery after that. Billet block with the 77mm sleeves entered the upper case today I have to remove the leftovers of the lands between 1-2 and 3-4, right?
Hole thru the case on 1 into alternator side need to be widened a little to remove the too thin walls, right?

I guess YES on all when I cannot see any other way and I saw the holes coming before the correct diameters were reached. I have earlier seen photos on upper case for big bore after machining. I could not find them for comparison.

[PeWe]

I have the cylinder on with pistons inside, no rings. Test assembly without studs so far, dowel pins in to guide cylinder correct on case and head on cylinder.

Will clay piston tops, mount cam and set it close to earlier. No exact timing.
Will check that valves corresponds to the piston pockets and check squish to head flat area as well as inside chambers.

This is a really FAT bore that will be notified when parked! I do not need to twist the throttle to show off 

Head surface is painted and do not match exactly. Should I paint the billet block too with same rattle can motor paint as head and case?
Might keep dirt off easier?