Author Topic: Anyone ever run hard brake lines from the MC to the caliper? (Read 7102 times)

cleveland · « **on:** May 15, 2009, 02:13:04 PM »

Has anyone ever run hard lines instead of the flexible line? I was considering running down the right side of the tripple and then across just under it and then down to the caliper. I can think of all the reasons this would be a good idea, who can tell me why this is a bad idea.

Thanks!

Joel · « **Reply #1 on:** May 15, 2009, 02:15:09 PM »

The only con I can think of is allowing for suspension travel.

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #2 on:** May 15, 2009, 02:15:58 PM »

Turning?
Unless you plan to go in a straight line all the time, then you're OK.

MCRider · « **Reply #3 on:** May 15, 2009, 02:18:28 PM »

Quote from: Dukiedook on May 15, 2009, 02:15:58 PM

Turning?
Unless you plan to go in a straight line all the time, then you're OK.

Turning should be OK, it all moves together. But suspension travel is the problem per JoelC.

eurban · « **Reply #4 on:** May 15, 2009, 02:22:28 PM »

To emphasize, no way it will work with suspension travel. Use braided stainless line from the MC all the way to the caliper; no need for the short piece of hard line at the caliper end.

cleveland · « **Reply #5 on:** May 15, 2009, 02:23:59 PM »

Suspension....Doh!!!!

Thanks guys.

Joel · « **Reply #6 on:** May 15, 2009, 02:26:43 PM »

If you still have the switch block, you could run a hard line from the master to the block, a short flexible line from the block to the lower fork and another hard line down to the caliper.

Is hard line cheaper?

cleveland · « **Reply #7 on:** May 15, 2009, 02:33:16 PM »

It is for me, since I have a buddy with some left over from a car repair. :-)

GammaFlat · « **Reply #8 on:** May 15, 2009, 04:13:33 PM »

Here's what I was just pondering...

I don't like my front braking on my K6. I feel like a car could out-stop me. I'd like to improve my braking yet avoid touchy brakes like my brother's Kaw LTD 1000. Just like life - it's about balance... and sometimes you can't get the perfect solution. On top of it all, my middle finger on my right hand does not work well (broken or something - been bothering me for years) which reduces my ability to actuate the brake lever.

My initial thoughts are to go with stainless lines as suggested above. Unfortunately, replacing both rubber lines (top and bottom) with stainless is about 120 bucks. Going with one continuous line from MC to hard line or caliper is only 60 bucks. The problem with that is you no longer have a brake light switch because you by-passed the "block" that has your switch in it. No problem, let's move the switch to the master cylinder's banjo bolt (you can get a banjo bolt that has a threaded end to receive a switch). Crap that looks big up there:

hmmm, anyone used something more like this for "switching duty"? This replaces your banjo bolt and has a switch built in ($28.95):

http://www.1tail.com/sa/p/Brake_Light_Pressure_Sensor_Switch.htm

I realize I'm all over the road here and maybe I should cough up 60-80 bucks for the MC on ebay (which has an integrated switch), but I kinda prefer the existing factory MC look:

cleveland · « **Reply #9 on:** May 15, 2009, 04:16:21 PM »

I was thinking of the same thing, but $60 for line plus $30 for the banjo and your pretty much at the $100 you would have spent on a kit.

kghost · « **Reply #10 on:** May 15, 2009, 05:10:41 PM »

Later model Masters have a switch.

Well...they have the switch built in.

Takes a different lever...as the lever has a tang on it that Opens the switch when you brake.

cleveland · « **Reply #11 on:** May 15, 2009, 05:38:55 PM »

Can you elaborate?

MJL · « **Reply #12 on:** May 15, 2009, 06:43:46 PM »

Quote from: GammaFlat on May 15, 2009, 04:13:33 PM

Here's what I was just pondering...

My initial thoughts are to go with stainless lines as suggested above. Unfortunately, replacing both rubber lines (top and bottom) with stainless is about 120 bucks. Going with one continuous line from MC to hard line or caliper is only 60 bucks. The problem with that is you no longer have a brake light switch because you by-passed the "block" that has your switch in it.

what, you don't have a brake light switch on your rear brake? Any rider worth a poop uses both brakes anyway, what's the problem?

My 650 has the rear brake adjusted so I can activate the brake light without actually using the brake, I use it when compression braking.

754 · « **Reply #13 on:** May 15, 2009, 06:45:56 PM »

77 and up has switch in the master.

Why even bother??

I never use the front without the back..

Only time I see it as a disadvantage is sitting at a light, but I keep my foot on the rear..

GammaFlat · « **Reply #14 on:** May 15, 2009, 07:09:05 PM »

Quote from: 754 on May 15, 2009, 06:45:56 PM

77 and up has switch in the master.

I would not have believed it.

I ran out to the garage and my K8 has a switch in the MC! Holy cow. On the other hand, my K7 has a switch on the block like my K6!?!?! With my luck - it could be that my K7 is some sort of frankenbike like the K0 I picked up.

Pretty neat - I'll be looking for a K8 MC for my K6 and possibly K7. That just goes to show you (me), if you're not careful, you'll learn something new every day

cleveland · « **Reply #15 on:** May 15, 2009, 07:15:35 PM »

I must have given 3 of them away last year, and now I could use one.......

754 · « **Reply #16 on:** May 15, 2009, 07:28:01 PM »

I guess I was wrong on 77!

so now i wonder if 77 & 78 K lower tree is the same?

GammaFlat · « **Reply #17 on:** May 15, 2009, 07:28:27 PM »

Quote from: cleveland on May 15, 2009, 07:15:35 PM

I must have given 3 of them away last year, and now I could use one.......

The one on ebay has gotten good reports.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FRONT-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-CB650-CB750-CB900-NIGHTHAWK_W0QQitemZ110388945843QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item19b3b1a3b3&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1205|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318

Other than that, I'll keep my eyes peeled for you.

GammaFlat · « **Reply #18 on:** May 15, 2009, 07:29:34 PM »

Quote from: 754 on May 15, 2009, 07:28:01 PM

I guess I was wrong on 77!

so now i wonder if 77 & 78 K lower tree is the same?

I can compare them and let you know. I'll take pics if you like.

cleveland · « **Reply #19 on:** May 15, 2009, 07:31:25 PM »

I bet it has, but I am not spending $60 to replace a $20 banjo.

I have a few local guys I can hit up for misc parts, I should be able to get one pretty cheap. Thanks for looking though.

754 · « **Reply #20 on:** May 15, 2009, 07:40:42 PM »

I have a 77 K lower tree here, it has the notch and tapped hole for the junction... nit sure if the 78K has that.

GammaFlat · « **Reply #21 on:** May 19, 2009, 08:26:02 AM »

You're right - they're different:
K7:

(not surprisingly) The K8 has a continuous line from the MC to the hard line. Why didn't they do this in the first place?

K8:

cleveland · « **Reply #22 on:** May 19, 2009, 10:52:06 AM »

Quote from: GammaFlat on May 19, 2009, 08:26:02 AM

Why didn't they do this in the first place?

They probably asked themselves the same question.

moham · « **Reply #23 on:** May 19, 2009, 10:58:51 AM »

Quote from: eurban on May 15, 2009, 02:22:28 PM

Use braided stainless line from the MC all the way to the caliper; no need for the short piece of hard line at the caliper end.

Good call. I've been looking for some confirmation on losing that last bit of hard line into the caliper.

Just an absolute bevy of info around here...(that's right, I said "bevy")

I Zombie · « **Reply #24 on:** May 19, 2009, 12:28:46 PM »

Quote from: cleveland on May 15, 2009, 02:23:59 PM

Suspension....Doh!!!!

Thanks guys.

Bites my tounge

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Author Topic: Anyone ever run hard brake lines from the MC to the caliper? (Read 7102 times)