Author Topic: Removing STUCK alternator CB 750 (Read 7219 times)

754 · « **on:** June 04, 2009, 08:45:53 AM »

This one is really stuck, maybe corroded as the rotor has some rust. I dis try the stock puller, tightened and smacked with a large brass hammer.. several times.

I really dont want to beat on it any harder, or ruin the puller, crank is toast. So short of snipping crank and boring out, I think I only have 1 choice.

I will intall puller and tighten up, then heat one side of the center of the rotor, till cherry red, if need be. That should get it off, I hope. Anyone got a better method?

ev0lution7 · « **Reply #1 on:** June 04, 2009, 09:25:42 AM »

there is a Puller tool are using that??? it makes it MUCH easyier i dont belive that a regular pull will work thats why they sell the special tool!

anyways hope that helps!

754 · « **Reply #2 on:** June 04, 2009, 09:33:16 AM »

Yes I have the factory puller (got it in the 70s)

I dont want to hit it any harder with the crank in the cases. I was using my 5 lb Brass hammer, it usually works extremely well. I can pop out 3/4 ton wheels studs from an axle with 2 hits..

this motor did have water or mousture in it, one 1/2 of the rotor is rusty.

MCRider · « **Reply #3 on:** June 04, 2009, 09:57:26 AM »

Quote from: ev0lution7 on June 04, 2009, 09:25:42 AM

there is a Puller tool are using that??? it makes it MUCH easyier i dont belive that a regular pull will work thats why they sell the special tool!

anyways hope that helps!

Heat is always good. And you have the correct puller it sounds like.

If you have time a soak in 50/50 solution of acetone and ATF has been yielding some good results. Really penetrates into rusty seams.

kghost · « **Reply #4 on:** June 04, 2009, 10:52:31 AM »

Tighten while smacking has always worked for me.

There has to be tension

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #5 on:** June 04, 2009, 10:58:24 AM »

What's your puller like? If it's the standard threaded type an air wrench will work wonders. Take it to a shop if you don't have one.

754 · « **Reply #6 on:** June 04, 2009, 08:12:59 PM »

Ya know, it sounds like a lot of you have never seen a stock puller.. it dont take a wrench or socket.
I have built & sold quite a few pullers, Rented one particular type out a lot , and do have an idea how they work.

So, I will run thru it again;
Using the STOCK FACTORY PULLER I tightened it up and smacked it & retightened & smacked it & tightened Again & smacked it multiple times.
The fact that it is barely retightening ( and not popping the rotor) suggests that it is merely bedding in, that is the threads are slightly deforming, or the end of puller or shaft are flattening slightly, or any combination of the three.

So, as I already mentioned it is stuck, and not being removed by the factory method, so I fail to see the point of beating it any harder, when it is still in the cases. (The axle trick would have been hilarious on this one).

Anyway, asking about the heat, in case anyone has had to resort to that. I think heating it in one spot wil let it grow & pop off.

MRieck · « **Reply #7 on:** June 04, 2009, 08:16:51 PM »

Terry had to do that thing with the big heat.....does one rotor mean that much to you? Plus the crank was out of the bike. Don't get defensive.....I'm just asking. I bought a late model one with the clutch for 15.00 with shipping on ebay the other day. It arrived and is mint.

754 · « **Reply #8 on:** June 04, 2009, 08:28:27 PM »

Hey I am not offended, Just seems that some are not getting the fact that I already did what would have pulled most rotors off.

I am just trying to salvage a few bits from the 69 cases I bought.. crank is toast, the rod bolt put about a mm deep mark in the journal, The rusty alt rotor is lightened, but still ran electric, and it looks pretty well trimmed, so I want to examine that further (all mine were non e-start). The big problem is it looks like it laid on its side with water in it, even cracked the trans cover..

MRieck · « **Reply #9 on:** June 04, 2009, 08:31:18 PM »

Quote from: 754 on June 04, 2009, 08:28:27 PM

Hey I am not offended, Just seems that some are not getting the fact that I already did what would have pulled most rotors off.

I am just trying to salvage a few bits from the 69 cases I bought.. crank is toast, the rod bolt put about a mm deep mark in the journal, The rusty alt rotor is lightened, but still ran electric, and it looks pretty well trimmed, so I want to examine that further (all mine were non e-start). The big problem is it looks like it laid on its side with water in it, even cracked the trans cover..

OK....I pulled 2 rotors off the other day with the factory tool no sweat. My son held the crank.

754 · « **Reply #10 on:** June 04, 2009, 08:47:45 PM »

As far as I remember you can tighten the stock tool by hand , rap, check tightness, and with another rap or two, most would be off.

I think there is a reason the factory tool does not use wrenches, it is usually a good rap on a tightened puller, is enough to take 95% of them off.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #11 on:** June 04, 2009, 11:05:41 PM »

You're correct, I have never seen a stock factory puller and I don't wish to now that I see what you're going through.

Mine took my rotor off in about 1.4372 seconds with the air gun. I can send it to you if you don't have any luck with the STOCK FACTORY PULLER in the next week or so.

Or maybe Mike can send his son to help. :-} Besides, you didn't state you attempted any other methods. Little testy today, eh Frank

(Note lots of smiley faces)

Anyway, now I gotta look up that damned STOCK FACTORY PULLER and check it out. I'll be damned. Guess the Japanese didn't have air guns or they wouldn't have put that damn T handle on a perfectly good air tool.

At least that's what the picture in my STOCK FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL looks like.

Have you determined what rods you have?

754 · « **Reply #12 on:** June 05, 2009, 12:07:53 AM »

Yeah, looks like Aluminum Yoshimura.. set of 3..

MRieck · « **Reply #13 on:** June 06, 2009, 07:11:08 AM »

Did you get the rotor off? I have several old style ones if you need one.

754 · « **Reply #14 on:** June 06, 2009, 07:38:55 AM »

Nope, not yet. Next step will be heat. I dont want to hit it any harder in the cases.

Cases got to be split anyway to inspect and to remove pistons and rods. Although this was probably old style, it has had most of the weight cut, the whole flange is gone, plus I have lots of spare. (but thanks anyway)

Porscheguy912 · « **Reply #15 on:** June 27, 2009, 11:54:58 AM »

I'm Having the same problem. 78 CB750F.
Mine moved about a 1/4 of in inch and i have the feeling its almost off but my puller broke at the last minute. (not the factory puller but a nice 3 arm cast puller.

Does anyone know the Size and Pitch for the stock puller? If i can thread a large bolt into the rotor to press against the crank I should be able to get mine the rest of the way off because mine is almost there and isnt corroded.

754 · « **Reply #16 on:** June 27, 2009, 01:28:52 PM »

Its on a taper, if it moves 1/2mm it would be off.. so you likely stretched part of your puller..

I think its same as axle size, dont have my measuring stuff here.

I pulled off another rotor off a clean 77 motor. It took more than I thought it would.. I would not want to hit an axle that hard..

Then, I tried the 69 rotor again, with crank out of cases, hit it as hard as I dared, did not budge. ... so I will try heat, rather than ruin the tool.

Porscheguy912 · « **Reply #17 on:** June 29, 2009, 10:24:04 AM »

Quote from: 754 on June 27, 2009, 01:28:52 PM

Its on a taper, if it moves 1/2mm it would be off.. so you likely stretched part of your puller..

I think its same as axle size, dont have my measuring stuff here.

Thats what i thought, but there is a gap between the starter free wheel and the rotor.

Also, i have heard that its the same as the axle before but its not. I wish it was that easy!

754 · « **Reply #18 on:** June 29, 2009, 10:46:08 AM »

I will try to mesaure thread & pitch today.. I think aftermarket pullers are out there for around 20 bux..

Porscheguy912 · « **Reply #19 on:** June 29, 2009, 10:55:05 AM »

Quote from: 754 on June 29, 2009, 10:46:08 AM

I will try to mesaure thread & pitch today.. I think aftermarket pullers are out there for around 20 bux..

Thanks! I dont have anyway to measure!

754 · « **Reply #20 on:** June 30, 2009, 10:19:30 AM »

20mm x 1.25mm pitch

MAKE sure end is SQUARED up, or it can hurt the crank.

Added, I will recheck the pitch..

Patrick · « **Reply #21 on:** June 30, 2009, 11:14:25 AM »

I just use a big bolt. Screw it in with your fingers until it contacts the crankshaft and then pop it with my pneumatic impact driver. Pops right off. I've never had a problem nor hurt a rotor with this method. The only issue is catching it before it hits the ground.

Patrick

754 · « **Reply #22 on:** June 30, 2009, 11:19:12 AM »

Square the end up, so it,

A, gives even pulling pressure

B, does not ding up or split end of crank snout..

City Boy · « **Reply #23 on:** June 30, 2009, 02:04:36 PM »

Hi 754.I would agree with Patrick.Use a bolt [20x1.5x75 ] is what I use.It takes a 30 mm socket and is 8.8 hardness.Use repeated attacks with the impact gun.Failing that,if you have access to a press,strip the engine and press it off.Good luck and Rock On

Porscheguy912 · « **Reply #24 on:** June 30, 2009, 06:34:12 PM »

Quote from: 754 on June 30, 2009, 10:19:30 AM

20mm x 1.25mm pitch

MAKE sure end is SQUARED up, or it can hurt the crank.

Excellent. Thanks. It will be helpful for next time. I actually got antzie and fixed my puller and got it off today. I was only a few turns away from the "pop".

Good luck with yours! I was taking mine off to fix my starter free-wheel.

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Author Topic: Removing STUCK alternator CB 750 (Read 7219 times)

ev0lution7