Topic: I've been K0'd!

[Don R]

 Thanks, I got the Red Sandcast shortly after retirement, I retired to begin a next career, but Government political infighting kept the job from happening. I wasn't sure at the time that I could afford to even keep it. It was weeks before I wiped the grunge off of it, I thought I might sell it at auction as a barn find. It looked really bad but the filth was just garage dirt sticking to WD40 and Blue Coral Wax.
 It's a shame the family tried to pull off the side covers before the sale. They had a lovely fade.

[Don R]

 I was looking at the sandcast engine in a diecast replacement case, the bike I got it for is 14,100. I had an appraiser here and he said the later engine only costs the early 70 a couple hundred dollars in value. I'm not so sure that I want to rebuild it now. It does have the early head lacking the center bolt. The cylinder needs a couple timeserts, I have options of two heads, one was drilled for oversize cam tower bolts, the other set is a very low serial number. #400 or less it isn't machined for the second cam tower o ring.

[RAFster122s]

Appraisers aren't buyers...if you never really plan to sell it, then it doesn't matter as the $ amount is really a moot point. But you will likely find a buyer to care more about these things than an appraiser. Especially if it is at auction sale...fickle buyers and emotional buyers really add variability to the sales amount...

[Don R]

  I agree on that. This guy was paying a cordial first visit (brought by a friend who knew he is a Honda guy) but he was very interested in the performance bikes for his own use. He didn't make an offer, just let me know he is available and also interested.
 The neighbor bought a Quad from him and had it delivered. The guy is a director of Drag Racing Association of Women. Ironic right? They offer help to injured racers and their families.

[Don R]

 Sandcast pics. The previous owner let me take pictures of the wiring and cable routing for my diecast bike. The middle pic is as it came home from the estate sale, all of the chrome was sprayed with WD40 and the paint was coated with blue coral wax. Everyone at the sale thought it was pitted. The 18" rolled rim was on the PO's drag bike so I bought it during the following week with the money I didn't spend on the Sandcast.
  The top picture is after being cleaned up and the bottom is after it got the Yamiya 4-4 exhaust with genuine Honda trim, seat foam and went to its first bike show. 

[grcamna2]

Your sandy is looking Real good in the bottom pic Don.

[BenelliSEI]

Looking great! Original airbox, bodywork, paint? Lovely.

[Johnie]

Gosh Don what a great collection there. Just beautiful! Nice nice work!!!

[Don R]

  Thanks.
  The sidecovers and airbox were re-painted, one cover was NOS blue-green and one was used original and off of my diecast. I do have the original airbox but the original sidecovers were ruined at the estate sale by guys trying to look inside.
  The guy that assembled it new from the crate has a picture of it in the lid of his toolbox. I'm going to try to get his 9,000 vin number bike.
 

[PeWe]

Great history of your Sandcast.
The value exceeds your investments rather much, right?

It's usually the other way

[Don R]

Great history of your Sandcast.
The value exceeds your investments rather much, right?

It's usually the other way

I got lucky for sure, the old timer Honda guys at the estate sale didn't think any 750 was worth more than $500, The other bidder had a friend that collects sandcasts, but the friend wasn't there and the guy that was bidding didn't know it was one. Him and I bid in $200 increments from $1,000 to $2200 and I lost track of who was in. I was too eager to bid again, and the other guy quit.
  I bought another bike from the family to get the rolled rear rim for $1800 and ended up in at $4,000 total which was how much I had since I had recently retired and paid off my house. With the re-chroming, Yamiya exhaust, handlebars, seat foam, center stand, tires, brakes, and the carb cleaning I'm still under $10K. A lot of that money came from selling my 76F. I have too many bikes but would buy that one back.
 You will love the bike that I bought to get the sandcasts rolled rim when I get it running. K2 70mm bore + stroker with a big tube header, ARD, and Webers.


 

[PeWe]

Both bikes will be loved by guys that had one back in the days or dreamed about it, funding not there.

My K2 frame had 998cc, Weber DCOE 40,  RC327,  ported head with modified F2 valves, 34/29 in the early 80's.
Side covers cut at front. Probably for the Webers.

[Don R]

  Since I bought a new sticker for the license plate, I decided to turn on the fuel and start up the Diecast. I'm taking a short ride to the bank and maybe further if it seems happy.
  I think it needs the carbs cleaned, runs OK at speed but it sucks at idle. I turned off the fuel and it seems to improve so the float valves must be seeping. #1 always seems to be the problem child, I'll pull the overflow hoses and watch for a leak.

[BenelliSEI]

Don….. If you drop the bowls check the idle (slow) jets. I bet at least a couple are plugged.

[Don R]

 That makes sense John, I can get the pit bike and the race car tied down in the trailer so my truck can go back in the garage. We had a couple prowlers recently so I have some property securing to do.

[BenelliSEI]

That makes sense John, I can get the pit bike and the race car tied down in the trailer so my truck can go back in the garage. We had a couple prowlers recently so I have some property securing to do.

Don….. read about your “visitors”. I worry about our race car left in the trailer. It’s behind my shop but fairly close to the road. I just locked a large chain through the wheels and around the axles. If anyone try’s to move it there should be enough noise to wake my dog. She’s the best alarm. A neighbour of mine actually pulls the wheels off his and locks them in the garage!

Occasionally I’ve cleared a  plugged idle jet by going along in second gear at fairly high revs. Close the throttle and pull up the choke lever all the way. If you’re lucky that creates enough vacuum to clear it. Occasionally……

[Don R]

 We did that on the jr. Dragsters. Another dad saw ours flooding and popped off the air filter and put his hand over the carb while I spun the starter. It sucked the dirt right through. Then I tried the glass fuel filters, the methanol swelled the filter screens up tight. That was another dumb idea.

[Don R]

 I was thinking today the blue-green K0 is my keeper last to go bike but why not upgrade it with the best K0 parts on my other not as important to me bikes?
 I might swap it to the Blake Conway gold bodywork and find a better tach and single cut front fender.

[grcamna2]

I was thinking today the blue-green K0 is my keeper last to go bike but why not upgrade it with the best K0 parts on my other not as important to me bikes?
 I might swap it to the Blake Conway gold bodywork and find a better tach and single cut front fender.

I hope you keep the blue/green body parts 

[Don R]

[/quote]

I hope you keep the blue/green body parts
[/quote]

 Well, I wasn't going to throw them away lol.

[Don R]

 I did rebuild the front brakes with new/old hoses removed from the Rat Race when it got double F calipers. It took two tries after I failed to find a new seal o ring and cleaned and re-installed the old one. Then I found the seals and did it again, the fluid is really fresh now. I also robbed the pads that were in the Rat Race. They are really thick and seem to need some break-in. I did sand the OD of the pads.
 I found that the mighty vac works better if I give the bleeder screw a wrap of teflon tape, just to keep the threads from leaking air into the hose. I don't get any near the tip. It might loosen easier next time too.

 When I was waxing and polishing it there was a spot of blue masking tape on the rim from when I trued it. Next up is to swap the Kenny Harmon F cam for a Honda   F2 cam and fix the leaky Nickel washers.

[grcamna2]

I did rebuild the front brakes with new/old hoses removed from the Rat Race when it got double F calipers. It took two tries after I failed to find a new seal o ring and cleaned and re-installed the old one. Then I found the seals and did it again, the fluid is really fresh now. I also robbed the pads that were in the Rat Race. They are really thick and seem to need some break-in. I did sand the OD of the pads.
 I found that the mighty vac works better if I give the bleeder screw a wrap of teflon tape, just to keep the threads from leaking air into the hose. I don't get any near the tip. It might loosen easier next time too.

 When I was waxing and polishing it there was a spot of blue masking tape on the rim from when I trued it. Next up is to swap the Kenny Harmon F cam for a Honda   F2 cam and fix the leaky Nickel washers.

I've used the Mighty Vac a few times and it's ok;bleeding brakes takes time,no matter what I use.
The small passages and the tiny air bubbles slowly rising up to the small bleed hole:I tap & rattle the brake lines and snap the front brake lever & let it snap-back hard against the stop and it helps to allow the small bubbles to travel upward a little quicker. 

[Don R]

  All true, it seems like the pads will need to bed in to the rotor. It stops better but also like a lot of 750's it takes a lot of squeeze. 
  It's running a little ragged I may pull the plugs and airbox and re-check the bench synch. I did have trouble using the Carbtune on it, that ought to keep me occupied for a day or two.

[BenelliSEI]

I pack the bleed nipple screw thread with some old FelPro gray anti seize. It seems to slow the air entry while bleeding and keeps them freer for later…

[Don R]

 All good ideas, tapping the hoses and lines did help move the air back to the master cylinder.