Topic: I could really use some help with my CB550

[young blood]

I am having trouble getting my bike to idle. The bike starts with the choke open just a little bit but then the issues start, no matter how long I warm the bike up for I have to keep the choke open just a little bit otherwise it turns off. Also the idle seems to fluctuate a bit (especially if I give it gass, it then stays higher sometimes or drops at other times) but I assume its cause it is warming up. After it warms up for a few minutes it starts to have issues when I'm revving it, as I twist my wrist the bike starts loosing power at first, then kicks in but often shuts off right after wards. Its worst when I put it in gear and try to test ride it, it dies every time no matter how much gas I give it. I am not experienced at all with bikes and know no one that is so  I am completely confused. At first I assumed it was a problem with the main jets cause the bike has a short exhaust, a Pingel petcock and aftermarket air filters so I changed the jets from stock(100) to 120's. Here is some pictures of the bike.

[OldSchool_IsCool]

OY!  Since your carbs, fuel system and filters are so far from stock, it's hard to say what might be going on.  Usually, an uneven idle is a carb balance issue.  Slow throttle response and bogging would suggest lean.  But it's hard to believe she's lean with 120's in there. 

Maybe it's lean during idle and rich once the mains kick in. 

Do you know if your carbs have been balanced recently?  If yes, were they synced on the bike or on the bench?

What do your spark plugs look like? 

The REAL experts will be along in a moment, but they will want to know these things.

[TwoTired]

Lets' go basic first.
Do you know that choke on is lever up and lever down is choke off?
A warmed up engine runs with choke off.  Choke should only need to be on during cold starts.

The last picture in the set shows choke fully on.  If you've been trying to run it this way for very long, then the spark plugs may be soot fouled (black).

[young blood]

I have no idea when the carbs were balanced, I have not touched them myself. The open exhaust and pod filters were an addition from the PO (if I would have known better back then I would have 1.checked it out better prior to purchase and 2.probably not bought a bike half way modified by someone else) I have not checked the spark plugs because from reading the carb faq i should do that after riding it at full throttle for a while, well so far I haven't even been able to ride it at low throttle.

I know that the picture shows the choke on, that is not how I've been running it, it is just where it was when I took the picture because I took the picture right after it died and I put choke on again to start it, probably not smart but I wanted to see if it makes a difference.

[TwoTired]

On the assumption that you are indeed using the choke in the correct way, and that it needs at least partial choke to keep it running at all times, then the most suspect problem source would be the slow/idle/pilot jets being plugged in the carbs.  (Main jets provide little fuel at idle, unless the choke is applied.)
(You should also note if any head pipes are cooler than the others, as colder pipes point to specific cylinder issues or its related carb or spark.)

If the slow/idle/pilot jets are indeed plugged (you should verify this), then you have to determine why it is so.  These jets have the smallest fuel orifices in the carb, and are usually the first to plug if anything other than fuel in in the carb bowls.  You should work back toward the tank, look inside, is it clean in there?

Is the screen on the Pingle petcock clean?  Is the screen intact?  If you drain out the gas in the carbs, does it come out clean with no debris larger than 0.012 inches in diameter?

At what setting are your air bleed screws?

Lastly, what is the fuel level in the tank?  Does the Pingle have a stand pipe for a reserve setting?  Are you using the reserve setting when you have run problems.  Can you verify that all the carb bowls are filling with fuel?

You should be aware that these engines need a tune up every 3 mos. 3000 miles.  When was this last performed?  If you don't know, or don't know that it was done correctly, it is due now.

[gmonkey]

I like the national insignia on the back.  Go Poland! 

[dave500]

id say dirty carby jets,some sort of fuel blockage,sounds like the ignition needs a look at aswell,was the bike running well when you bought it?have you got an air compressor,you can drop the bowls and jets and air screws and blow through everywhere,has it an inline filter?maybe blocked or backwards?are the fuel lines kinked at all?.

[the technological J]

wow im suprised... no one said do a full tune up and see where u r at then....... do the points, timing, carb syncand then see how she rides...... and pay attn to everything 2tired says

[young blood]

TwoTired:
Thank you for the help, I did check the pipes out and they seem to have an even temperature. I drained the carbs out when I replaced the main jets and judging by that the fuel is clean. I relined the tank (twice), bought a brand new petcock and fuel lines so I'm semi confident that should not be where he problem lies. The inside of the carbs looked good as well when I opened them but they will get an air scrubbing in a few days, I just ordered new pilot jets sizes 35 and 45 which I will clean when I install then as soon as they arrive.
I have not checked the setting on the air bleed screws, I'll have to search the site to see how that is done. What is the proper setting for the bleed screws??
The tank is close to full and the petcock does have a stand pipe. I have only used the open setting on the petcock and when I drained the carbs two days ago fuel came out of all the bowls (next time I'll drain it into separate containers to see if the amounts are equal).
I do not know when the bike was tuned up, my plan was to get a full tune up when I got the bike in order since I know little about its history, I just want to get it in an OK running condition if I can prior to doing that.
dave500:
I can see the fuel flowing through the filters and I know its getting to the carbs but I will clean everything out as soon as the pilot screws arrive.
The bike was rusted, had jerry rigged wiring and oil was weeping from the fins but it was running when I bought it. I put new fuel lines on, no kinks, it does have inline filters and they're on right.
I will drop the needle one notch also when I change the pilot jets, if I have 120 main jets and 45 pilot jets would it be smart to drop it more than that?

[OldSchool_IsCool]

The stock setup doesn't call for in-line filters, so there isn't a "right" way to have them installed.  One thing I do know is if they are mounted horizontally, they are definitely "wrong".  My advice would be to inspect your in-tank filter and replace it if it is torn, then trust it alone.  That's how the Honda engineers intended it to be.