Topic: Engine ideas

[Ryan6838]

So Im wanting to plain the next step in my build (first step was make it safe to ride) and was looking for so ideas in how to go. I wouldnt have a ton of money to do a rebuild but I was wandering what is the best bang for the buck for a daily rider? From looking around (And i havnt been into the engine to tell how much wear there is) and was thinking of some head work and making sure everything is within spec. Mainly im looking for some more pep and solid longevity in it.  I dont need a 1000cc monster nor could afford it. Just wandering what is a good route for a solid build thats still affordable i know power and money fight each other. I have a 78k by the way. Is there a factory head that made more power like an f head just rebuild compared to a k head and paying for bigger valves? Idk if that makes scene lol. Sorry Im a noob and want to make a good plain and not get over my head to much. Thank you in advance for your help and sorry for rambling. 

[the technological J]

whats your budget? cyclex has a ton of parts u can get some ideas by looking at thier site
http://www.cyclexchange.net/

[Ryan6838]

Like to be around 1500 If i could. Saving and getting parts for this step may take some time.

[lordmoonpie]

Best idea in the worldis to set a budget and see what you can do within it. If you're going for affordable power and reliability then the head is where you should start, maybe try and pick up some performance cams for a bit of a hotter ride but tbh, a good flow and blueprint of the head will help no end....

[CBJoe]

Depending on what your starting with, don't forget to budget in suspension components (springs and shocks).  All that power doesn't do you much good if your bouncin' on 35 year old shocks.

[Doctor_D]

+1 CBJoe.

Some Performance suspension 12-1204's, bronze swingarm bushings, Racetech goldvalves, 15wt Redline suspension fluid, and AllBalls tapered steering head bearings will help make sure the bike goes where you want it to with a minimum of fuss and/or drama.

[andy750]

+1 CBJoe.

Some Performance suspension 12-1204's, bronze swingarm bushings, Racetech goldvalves, 15wt Redline suspension fluid, and AllBalls tapered steering head bearings will help make sure the bike goes where you want it to with a minimum of fuss and/or drama.

+1

And Ill give you an example...just had my 55,000 mile stock CB750K2 engine refurbished to 810cc and the engine is the smoothest I have ever had (thanks MikeR!). However, the rest of the bike now needs all the things Doctor D mentions especially the swingarm bushings and steering head bearings. Dont overlook these! My 69,000 mile CB750K4 had the engine refurbished to stock with some mild porting about 7,000 miles ago. Feels very nice and since then Ive done the swingarm bushings, All Balls kit, front wheel bearings, new front brake piston and rearProgressive suspension (already had the front springs replaced)..the difference is night and day. But...there is always something that needs upgrading...

good luck
Andy

[Ryan6838]

Yeah I already did steering bearing, swingarm bushings and did a set of Marzocchi shocks on the rear. Planing on rebuilding the shocks, doing eather duel brakes up front or a fork swap with duels. Along with new springs in whatever fork I end up running. Was looking for stuff that may be overlooked when people are building.

[Doctor_D]

Good to hear.

"First, make it turn and make it stop, worry about the 'go' later," was a big part of what my father taught me about hot-rodding anything, so it's never far from my mind.

Nice foundation, should be a great motorcycle.

[Ryan6838]

Yeah the suspemtion and braking will be done first for safty reasons. No reason to go fast if you cant stop the thing. This is kind of to see what I may want to start watching for if I can get some parts cheaper.

[lordmoonpie]

What ever happened to your board racing dirt tracking spirit over in the US of A? You surely don't even need a front brake 

[Tintop]

Good to hear.

"First, make it turn and make it stop, worry about the 'go' later," was a big part of what my father taught me about hot-rodding anything, so it's never far from my mind.

Nice foundation, should be a great motorcycle.

1st race mechanic that prep'd my MGB for Solo said basically the same thing.  he figured until you could get 100% out of the chassis, you didn't need more power.  higher your entry and the exit speeds, the more you carried down the straight.  lived by that ever since - build the best handling chassis you can, then worry about power.

great start with the shocks, and searching this site will give you a mountain of info on front ends (swaps / dual disks)

[turboguzzi]

Good to hear.

"First, make it turn and make it stop, worry about the 'go' later," was a big part of what my father taught me about hot-rodding anything, so it's never far from my mind.

Nice foundation, should be a great motorcycle.

1st race mechanic that prep'd my MGB for Solo said basically the same thing.  he figured until you could get 100% out of the chassis, you didn't need more power.  higher your entry and the exit speeds, the more you carried down the straight.  lived by that ever since - build the best handling chassis you can, then worry about power.

great start with the shocks, and searching this site will give you a mountain of info on front ends (swaps / dual disks)

Yes, nice piece of advice until you get on track and somebody who has a just as nice a suspension and chassis setup AND a monster motor blows you down the straight and you go "oh fxxx! i need motor man! i really do!

Ryan , As you do seem to be taking care of suspension and such, you do deserve some more power even with a low investment and yet nobody told you  what to do.

Dont know about 750's, but if it was a 500-550 and I had the bucks to do just ONE thing, it'd be bumping compression by milling the block or head. higher CR bumps up your whole torque curve by improving the most important power producing parameter: efficiency. going up from the lame stock 9:1 to a pretty safe 10:1 (in a 500) could be worth more than 10% hp across the range.

You say youre a noob, so the only down side is that its not beginners stuff, you'd need to know what you are doing.

TG

[Doctor_D]

TG:

That's fair. I meant to conclude by saying he can his head to Mike for a stage 3 job, and use something like a 41a cam for a good, streetable top-end hop-up. Raise the jet needle a couple of grooves, take a few thou off the bottom of the slides, and use a 120 main and you should be in business. Though it's a wild-ass guess, I wouldn't be surprised to see another 10hp+ at the rear wheel.

If he wants to go a bit further, add an 836 or 850 kit to the mix, and use a 63a cam - moving from the mid-50's in rwhp to high 70's.

[Ryan6838]

Probaly should have said this is a street bike. I want the bike to be stable and safe so i started with the suspension and brakes. And like to do a rebuild once that's done and was thinking about adding some more pep while im at it.

[Doctor_D]

Looking at your budget and what you want to do with it, I'd stick with having Mike Rieck do the head, and use a slightly bigger cam, like a 41a, and the suggested carb mods.  Should be close to your budget and it'll really wake up the bike.

[turboguzzi]

Probaly should have said this is a street bike. I want the bike to be stable and safe so i started with the suspension and brakes. And like to do a rebuild once that's done and was thinking about adding some more pep while im at it.

Ryan, I actually understood that its a street bike, just thought it funny that the "well educated" approach works well only until you realize that more power is indeed more power. that said, in the twisties, 99% of the time,  rider skill and handling are bigger factors.

could be good if some of the people that post tuning proposals for you could put a price on their "packages". I did for a friend a mild compression ration only bump in a 550, total cost was 20$ for a 1mm skim of the head in a local shop + a new head gasket and of course my labor in re-fitting (free....) . my friend though it was the best 50$ he ever spent, the increase in torque all around was VERY noticeable.

I am throwing this in here in the hipo forum as i dont know how a 750 will react to just a CR bump as it has that deeper hemi head,

In a 500-550 it really makes a big difference without porting, hotter cam and other expensive stuff.

TG 

   

[Doctor_D]

TG:

The intake ports on a 750 look pretty mediocre and would make a simple head-deck and cam change much less effective.

With the head off, it's worthwhile to clean up the ports, port-match the spigots, do a throat cut, and a good 3-angle valve-job at the very least. I don't see any problem with him being able to do that within his $1500 budget.

[turboguzzi]

TG:

The intake ports on a 750 look pretty mediocre and would make a simple head-deck and cam change much less effective.

With the head off, it's worthwhile to clean up the ports, port-match the spigots, do a throat cut, and a good 3-angle valve-job at the very least. I don't see any problem with him being able to do that within his $1500 budget.

My bad. totally missed the 1500$ budget thing....   Ignore my posts!

Cheers

TG