Topic: CB750 K1. Dont drink and ebay project....

[jaguar]

So i have a EK chain 219h x 94
It was in the parts bin.
part number crosses to a 750

My question is
Is this the cam chain that i want to use or is there a better one out there?
Im just looking for something strong that will take a beating and not be a risk to the motor.
Is this good? or do i want a different chain?  OEM?
thanks for the help

[MCRider]

So i have a EK chain 219h x 94
It was in the parts bin.
part number crosses to a 750

My question is
Is this the cam chain that i want to use or is there a better one out there?
Im just looking for something strong that will take a beating and not be a risk to the motor.
Is this good? or do i want a different chain?  OEM?
thanks for the help

If it has the sideplates that are straightsided, it is the heavy duty chain. If the sideplates are pinched in, its the OEM chain. OEM is fine, but for what you are asking maybe not.

To take a beating and not be a risk, you need the HD chain. Cheap enough, like $35 or so i think.

[jaguar]

looks like tsubaki claims they are the only HD chain.

Im not looking to take a risk for $30

thanks again for all the help

[MCRider]

looks like tsubaki claims they are the only HD chain.

Im not looking to take a risk for $30

thanks again for all the help

Yup.
http://www.z1enterprises.com/Cam-Chain--Tsubaki-BF05M-94Link--Honda-2923.aspx

For a few cents more you can support a Forum Sponsor
http://cbrzone.com/sohc.html

[jaguar]

ill get it from APE and order the adjustable sproket
I need to send them my crank anyway

[lucky]

chrome is cleaning up enough to use for a bit.  will need to be replaced or rechromed down the line though


flash rust after the "works" cleaning.  i really thought that the tank was going to be junk.
very happy that i will be able to use it


helped out a friend and he hooked me up with this seat and two good wheels.
not the best looking seat but is nice to sit on


not really sure about the welds. 
if you ask me they look hand done but that just might be me telling me what i want to hear


looking forward to riding the bike for a few weeks before the weather gets cold.

Yes the welds were "hand done" No robots at that time.
Thankgod.  My "hand done welds on my CB750 are 33 years old and still the HAZs (heat affected zones) next to the weld look fine.

I am a welding inspector.

You better take care of that corrosion right away though.
Wire brush to clean metal,  then phosphoric acid and Eastwoods rust prevention paint system.

[jaguar]

Rust is not as bad as it looks but yes it will be addressed

[Terry in Australia]

If you buy a gallon of Phosphoric acid and (depending on it's concentration) water it down with tap water, you'll be able to clean every last speck of rust outta that tank mate, and dump the fender and tail light bracket in it, and your chrome will come up like new! Cheers, Terry. 

[jaguar]

If you buy a gallon of Phosphoric acid and (depending on it's concentration) water it down with tap water, you'll be able to clean every last speck of rust outta that tank mate, and dump the fender and tail light bracket in it, and your chrome will come up like new! Cheers, Terry. 

i use "the works" toilet cleaner.  cheap and works great

[jaguar]

This hurricane is holding up a fun new part for this build....

[jaguar]

First I have another rotor question.
is the "lower" rotor a 550 rotor?  Think i got shipped the wrong rotor...



OK now for fun parts!
Stainless hand made yoshi rep pipe.  Last one from them for a while.  got a great deal on it.
Its super light






Also got a deal on some OEM grips.  not sure if ill run them on this bike but its nice to have.

[Terry in Australia]

First I have another rotor question.
is the "lower" rotor a 550 rotor?  Think i got shipped the wrong rotor...

Which one is which mate? I think the 500/550 discs are smaller in diameter than the 750's? Is that the K0 disc on the right? If so, I think the offset is different from a later K1-k6 disc, as the K0 has a wider hub. Cheers, Terry.

[jaguar]

Emailed M3 to get more information about their slipper tensioner and to see about running one on the street.  also to ask why the chain that they list is twice the price as ones listed other places and use the same pic.  not really to beat them up but to be a more informed customer.  im more then willing to spend some money on better parts.

Still reading and thinking about what pistons to run.
Some very cool information here
http://www.satanicmechanic.org/bigbore.shtml
really like the idea of the CBX1000 pistons.
Anyone have more info on this swap?  I like the idea of using OEM pistons as for some reason i believe that a cast OEM piston is some how better then the "aftermarket" cast ones?  Am i kidding myself?
Not to keen on the 900F pistons as i dont want to be limited to the stock cam.
What would the CR be with the CBX pistons?  doesnt read like there would be cam issues.

[Terry in Australia]

I've been running the M3 slipper tensioner in my 836cc engine for the last 5 or 6 years mate, with no problems. You'll need to run the Tsubaki race chain with it, but don't buy the chain from M3, I buy my chains from Z1, Jeff Saunders is a member here and his chains are exactly the same as M3's, just half the price. Honda pistons are good quality, but no better than Wiseco. Cheers, Terry.

[jaguar]

Terry you have any experience running CBX or other OEM pistons?

I was going to order the chain from APE and get one of their adjustable sprockets too

[Terry in Australia]

Terry you have any experience running CBX or other OEM pistons?

I was going to order the chain from APE and get one of their adjustable sprockets too

G'Day Mate, no, no experience using 4 valve per cylinder pistons with a 2 valve engine, I thought about it but figured that I'd need to fly-cut them to suit the CB750 valve arrangement with a lumpy cam, which would alter their weight, (and make it necessary to then re-match their weights perfectly) so I used a set of forged Arias pistons that I bought for cheap on EBay instead.

APE are good guys, they lightened and balanced my crank, I'll finally install it and my undercut gears very shortly when I rebuild my 836cc engine, it's got more leaks than the White House!

[Tews19]

slow going right now.
cracked the motor to replace the tensioner.

kinda changing direction from my first thought on this bike.
frame is now being powdercoated black.
going to do a mild cafe with the bike
tarazi rearsets
cool tank.
not going to cut the frame or anything just want a fun bike for the summer

How did you get your fork in that good of shape? PLenty of elbow grease and some steel wool? I am in the process of doing my own tear down and build and could use your insight when it comes to polishing parts as I wait for funds to purchase new parts.

[jaguar]

slow going right now.
cracked the motor to replace the tensioner.

kinda changing direction from my first thought on this bike.
frame is now being powdercoated black.
going to do a mild cafe with the bike
tarazi rearsets
cool tank.
not going to cut the frame or anything just want a fun bike for the summer

How did you get your fork in that good of shape? PLenty of elbow grease and some steel wool? I am in the process of doing my own tear down and build and could use your insight when it comes to polishing parts as I wait for funds to purchase new parts.

lots of sanding and buffing.
its a pain but it really looks good when its done and its cheap...lol

[Tews19]

Like regular sandpaper? if so what grits? I have been using steel wool 000 so far and I cant get my forks like that

[jaguar]

Like regular sandpaper? if so what grits? I have been using steel wool 000 so far and I cant get my forks like that

Depending on how bad any pits are you might need to start at 400 or 600.
I go all the way to 2000 before hitting it with wool and then buffing.

starting with wool will have almost no effect as you need to get though the factory clear coat on the parts too

[Tews19]

Thanks... Now am I also able to use the 400 or 600 all the way upto 2000 on chrome such as the rims? I posted pics of my 550F thread which I plan to take apart and rebuild

[Terry in Australia]

What are you hoping to achieve by sanding your chrome mate? Remove it? It certainly won't do it any good, but isn't a good idea, if you want to remove it, take it to a chrome platers and have them remove it, then you'll have nice clean rims to paint or powdercoat, or to re-chrome.

Phosphoric acid is great for removing rust from chrome, if you just want to clean it, but don't get it on your spokes as it'll remove the zinc plating very quickly. Whatever you choose to do, use "Wet and Dry" sandpaper wet, for the best results. Cheers, Terry.

[jaguar]

Thanks... Now am I also able to use the 400 or 600 all the way upto 2000 on chrome such as the rims? I posted pics of my 550F thread which I plan to take apart and rebuild

no sanding will not help chrome....
if steel wool doesnt help much then its shot and needs to be rechromed...not painted as paint doesnt stick well unless you have the chrome actually removed

[jaguar]

Well it looks like I now have some motor parts to use for this build....
I fell upon this motor that turned out to be filled with fun vintage go fast parts.



Thats a yoshi 811cc kit!




Not really sure about the car, would love to find out the specs.  Heard that it might be a megacycle cam?


This doesnt look stock....


"pork chop" crank?


Polished RSC rods!

Still trying to find out more info on the parts.
Hope to start building very soon.

[Terry in Australia]

Hey Excellent pick up mate, looks like you might have a full race engine there, where'd you score that? Of course, if it's too much trouble to install all that stuff so late in the build, you could just send it to me, don'tchaknow? Cheers, Terry.