Author Topic: Man, you guys are going to kill me. (Read 41190 times)

scottly · « **Reply #175 on:** October 10, 2011, 10:14:02 AM »

A 750 motor, without carbs and exhaust, weighs about 180 pounds.

jgmmgood · « **Reply #176 on:** October 10, 2011, 10:57:07 AM »

Hey Sheik,

Cool project. I caught the EV bug back in '97 working with the infamous "Father Time" in a shop up in Ballard, WA. We made an EV for the PIR all electric drags out of a CB 100 frame which I had to chop and re-weld, etc. The motor we used was a starter motor from a British Spitfire!
We ended up getting the batteries for free from Interstate and long story short, I think the only new part we bought was a set of tires.

I remember we wired it to start off with a partial pack and there was an ammeter we used to determine when to release the main contact, then you could "shift" more batteries into the circuit.
Let me know if I can help you out at all. Keep up the good work.

Jim

coldwave007 · « **Reply #177 on:** October 10, 2011, 02:45:50 PM »

Very cool build! (subscribed) Out of curiosity, could you perhaps run some type of CVT transmission? EG - something like a SnowMachine Primary/Secondary. You'd be swapping a chain for a belt, and I have seen belt-driven motorcycles before. I expect the size/space limitations would probably be the biggest problem.

Just a thought.

scottly · « **Reply #178 on:** October 10, 2011, 05:06:10 PM »

Jim, if you know Father Time, you probably know of plasma-boy? I got involved with EVs in '99 or so, making motor to trans adapters for Wilde EV.

Syscrush · « **Reply #179 on:** October 10, 2011, 05:43:43 PM »

Quote from: coldwave007 on October 10, 2011, 02:45:50 PM

Very cool build! (subscribed) Out of curiosity, could you perhaps run some type of CVT transmission? EG - something like a SnowMachine Primary/Secondary. You'd be swapping a chain for a belt, and I have seen belt-driven motorcycles before. I expect the size/space limitations would probably be the biggest problem.

Just a thought.

Some folks have tried this, with mixed results. Personally, I wouldn't bother - too much extra weight, complexity, and opportunity for powertrain loss. The snowmobile CVT is not like a belt primary or final drive, it's not a high-efficiency toothed belt. They're better than they used to be, but in a case where every watt of power counts, I don't see how they make sense. Especially given the output characteristics of an electric motor.

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #180 on:** October 10, 2011, 05:57:37 PM »

The efficiency loss with a belt driven CVT is actually worse than an automatic transmission. Syscrush hit the nail on the head, the extra weight and poor efficiency offsets the benefit.

I ordered material for battery brackets tonight. I'm using 1/8" thick 5052 aluminum, because it's much more suited for bending than 6061. I also ordered my 65 tooth sprocket and 13 tooth driven sprocket, for a 5:1 ratio.

scottly · « **Reply #181 on:** October 10, 2011, 06:26:27 PM »

Getting back to the weight of the original ICE power-train; with the carbs, exhaust, full oil tank, battery, etc, the total would be at least 230 pounds.

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #182 on:** October 10, 2011, 06:44:53 PM »

Let me confirm the weight of my electric drivetrain.

Batteries: 120 Pounds
Motor: 52 Pounds
Charger: 5 Pounds
Controller: 6 Pounds
DC Converter: 5 Pounds
Contactor/Wiring/Shunts/Etc: 10 Pounds

198 Pounds thusfar. A fiberglass seat and de-tabbed frame removes a little bit, and the underside of the tank will be cut away to house the charger.

lucky · « **Reply #183 on:** October 10, 2011, 11:54:40 PM »

Quote from: Sheik Yerbouti on March 04, 2011, 02:19:01 PM

Is it okay to leave the tubular frame open where I chopped it in the back, or should I seal those shut?

A tube is much stronger when the end of the tube is welded up.
Maybe you can get someone to weld it that knows how to weld properly.
Also when the tube is sealed up corrosion cannot take place because of the lack of oxygen.

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #184 on:** October 11, 2011, 05:39:45 AM »

So last night I started tearing into my wheels. I originally intended on polishing them, but now I like the satin black look. Any advice for painting these hubs? I know the aluminum has a clearcoat on it, so I was planning on degreasing, using a stripper, sanding it with up to 220 or so, and filling any deep scratches.

I hear good things about the eastwood chassis black, has anybody used it on aluminum? I'll go ahead and get their primer too, if that seems like a good way to go.

lucky · « **Reply #185 on:** October 11, 2011, 07:45:32 AM »

Quote from: Sheik Yerbouti on October 11, 2011, 05:39:45 AM

So last night I started tearing into my wheels. I originally intended on polishing them, but now I like the satin black look. Any advice for painting these hubs? I know the aluminum has a clearcoat on it, so I was planning on degreasing, using a stripper, sanding it with up to 220 or so, and filling any deep scratches.

I hear good things about the eastwood chassis black, has anybody used it on aluminum? I'll go ahead and get their primer too, if that seems like a good way to go.

I have used the Eastwood Chassis black nothing special.
I have used The industrial Rustoleum Satin black same.
I have used the Duplicolor satin black no difference.

Black is black.

The satin black will look like primer, unfinished RAT BIKE.
Wheels take a beating, have them powder coated.

Do you want your finished bike to look finished?

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #186 on:** October 11, 2011, 08:16:02 AM »

That doesn't look like a rat bike to me.

Syscrush · « **Reply #187 on:** October 11, 2011, 10:09:16 AM »

I've done wheels with a tough 2-part paint (don't remember of it's epoxy or polyurethane) called Endura and never had a problem. I don't think that you need to go with powder coat to get a decent finish. I'm not convinced that wheels take more of a beating than, say, fenders, and they are often painted.

As for the color, that's your choice. I'm pretty partial to every form of black, as long as it's applied properly and with style.

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #188 on:** October 11, 2011, 10:26:09 AM »

For the sake of clarification, I'm going to leave the chrome of my wheels untouched (it's in good shape). It's the hubs that look pretty bad.

lucky · « **Reply #189 on:** October 11, 2011, 12:02:27 PM »

Quote from: scottly on October 10, 2011, 10:14:02 AM

A 750 motor, without carbs and exhaust, weighs about 180 pounds.

Is that with or without the electric starter?

lucky · « **Reply #190 on:** October 11, 2011, 12:04:29 PM »

Quote from: Sheik Yerbouti on October 11, 2011, 08:16:02 AM

That doesn't look like a rat bike to me.

Ok....Ok There are some exceptions. Sheik Yerbouti wins 1.

jgmmgood · « **Reply #191 on:** October 11, 2011, 12:52:10 PM »

Jim, if you know Father Time, you probably know of plasma-boy? I got involved with EVs in '99 or so, making motor to trans adapters for Wilde EV.

Hi Scottly,

Plasma boy sounds familiar - didnt work with him though. I was only with Father Time for a summer for an internship. Great Guy.

(sorry for the side - bar, diversion off topic, etc....)

Please continue Sheiking said "booty"

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #192 on:** October 11, 2011, 06:28:35 PM »

Had a chance to try out a mockup of the front motormount. It's made out of MDF, which was strong enough to hold the motor up for the purpose of a mockup, but barely. I also tossed the battery analogs in to see how much clearance I have. I think I'll be okay, but the rear mockup is a sort of "clamp" that goes around the whole motor, so I'd rather mock that up as well just to make sure I have enough clearance before milling it.

OldSchool_IsCool · « **Reply #193 on:** October 11, 2011, 06:37:32 PM »

That motor looks a bit open to the elements. Is the plan that it will be a fair weather only bike? What about dust?

scottly · « **Reply #194 on:** October 11, 2011, 06:42:34 PM »

Quote from: lucky on October 11, 2011, 12:02:27 PM

Quote from: scottly on October 10, 2011, 10:14:02 AM
A 750 motor, without carbs and exhaust, weighs about 180 pounds.

Is that with or without the electric starter?

Actually, that's a good question. I honestly don't remember, as it was 15 years ago, but it was the same diet/build when I removed the starter. Just to be safe, I'll say it was with the starter.
I weighed some stock K7 parts today, like exhaust, airbox with filter, etc, and I would now say the stock ICE with peripherals weighs about 260 pounds, plus the pounds of gas required for a 40 mile range.

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #195 on:** October 11, 2011, 06:59:27 PM »

Quote from: OldSchool_IsCool on October 11, 2011, 06:37:32 PM

That motor looks a bit open to the elements. Is the plan that it will be a fair weather only bike? What about dust?

Luckily the majority of the motor is behind the batteries, but I may consider creating a shroud to cover the ports that seem most susceptible to the elements. I'd hate it to be just a fair weather bike, but that may be something to discuss with the guys on the other forum who have more experience. I know a few of them got caught in the rain and didn't have anything bad happen to their bikes.

Syscrush · « **Reply #196 on:** October 12, 2011, 04:18:31 AM »

1. You must know this, but the photos remind me... You want the shaft of that motor located as close as possible to the stock countershaft location, to maintain good chain geometry. I don't know enough about these bikes to be able to tell from those pics.

2. Even when you're just mocking up, use washers. If you use some nice big fender washers that MDF mount is less likely to break and cause you heartache.

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #197 on:** October 12, 2011, 08:58:48 AM »

Quote from: Syscrush on October 12, 2011, 04:18:31 AM

1. You must know this, but the photos remind me... You want the shaft of that motor located as close as possible to the stock countershaft location, to maintain good chain geometry. I don't know enough about these bikes to be able to tell from those pics.

2. Even when you're just mocking up, use washers. If you use some nice big fender washers that MDF mount is less likely to break and cause you heartache.

I based my mount off the original chain location, so I'm hoping it's pretty close. The other guy I know who built an electric bike on this frame had a very similar shaft placement. I don't have my sprockets or chain yet, so I can't guarantee chain placement until those ship. I'm ordering from a company called Rebel Gears, who cuts custom sprockets for a good price.

My 5052 aluminum arrived today. I'm using it to create battery brackets. Pictures when I get home from work.

Syscrush · « **Reply #198 on:** October 12, 2011, 09:11:17 AM »

FWIW, I am really f'n excited about this project and will continue to watch with interest.

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #199 on:** October 12, 2011, 10:41:14 AM »

Thanks man. It's crazy, here at work people are getting excited about it too. This might turn into a department-wide project.

News:

Author Topic: Man, you guys are going to kill me. (Read 41190 times)