Author Topic: Rearsets! (Read 10570 times)

Roach · « **Reply #25 on:** February 10, 2011, 06:54:39 PM »

i had to ditch my kickstart with my raask's sucks so much there is something about kickstarting my bike that i love oh so much

wookie · « **Reply #26 on:** February 10, 2011, 07:09:38 PM »

I hear ya. But on these bikes it's kind of anti-climatic. Mine starts on 3/4 kick.., cool i guess but it's not like my neighbour who has too twist the throttle just right, make sure the front cyl is at tdc, and kick over until it fires. After all that you really appreciate it starting.

Dyrden · « **Reply #27 on:** February 10, 2011, 07:23:03 PM »

Anyone mount up rearsets while preserving the kick start? I dont mind fabricating a mount, but also wouldnt mind seeing how others have done it before.

wookie · « **Reply #28 on:** February 10, 2011, 07:56:54 PM »

scottly · « **Reply #29 on:** February 10, 2011, 08:38:50 PM »

Quote from: fatmatt650 on February 09, 2011, 08:19:16 PM

If anyones done a kickstart mod. I'd love to see it. I have a 76 CB750F.

I've also thought about making a light weight kick start lever out of 7075, with a jog to clear the shifter. I have also noticed that a K7 kick lever has a bit more outward off-set, even though it is longer than a K1.

fatmatt650 · « **Reply #30 on:** February 11, 2011, 12:53:27 AM »

Quote

Three things,
-get a shorter kick lever, yours seems a couple inches longer than mine,
-folding rear set peg,
-and our bikes have that handy button on the right handle bar switch.....

- Kick lever hits the brake arm at about the halfway point, it'd have to be way too short.
- Rear set peg is folding, I keep it down when I kickstart to protect the brake lever.
- Fonzie used a kickstart, I use a kickstart.

Plus the switch was toast when I got the bike and the starter motor was removed as part of my weight loss program.

jaguar · « **Reply #31 on:** February 11, 2011, 08:28:02 AM »

the F lever should stick out farther then the K kicker.

i have Tarozzi bolt on rearsets for my 76F.
im not sure what to do about the kicker....really would like to keep the kicker

domer · « **Reply #32 on:** February 11, 2011, 09:09:59 AM »

not sure if this will help but...

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=12003.0

jaguar · « **Reply #33 on:** February 11, 2011, 10:33:32 AM »

yes but if you have a F bike already i dont know what to do.

that said i have a few F kickers sitting doing nothing if anyone needs one...

wannabridin · « **Reply #34 on:** February 11, 2011, 11:13:15 AM »

hey Jag, i'll take one! i'll give it a shot to see what's going on... the splines are the same as a K right? PM sent

also, here's some more pictures from Denis he snapped today. a couple of the pictures are the rearsets and bobbins mocked up on a 550, notice the trick swingarm they built for it! pretty neat!

wannabridin · « **Reply #35 on:** February 11, 2011, 11:13:45 AM »

more...

joehardy · « **Reply #36 on:** February 11, 2011, 07:31:56 PM »

The Raask bolted in place on my 750K. The shifter side only required a slight bend in the connector rod. The brake side required a bunch of mods to the lever arm. The splined part actually broke so I wound up using the stock brake arm which is much beefier. I cut off the pedal itself and welded the Raask arm to it. Also added tabs to allow adjustment of the break pedals static position. A bit of a pain but I am very happy with the setup now. I can also kick start by flipping the peg up.

wookie · « **Reply #37 on:** February 11, 2011, 07:33:56 PM »

Quote from: fatmatt650 on February 11, 2011, 12:53:27 AM

Quote
Three things,
-get a shorter kick lever, yours seems a couple inches longer than mine,
-folding rear set peg,
-and our bikes have that handy button on the right handle bar switch.....
- Kick lever hits the brake arm at about the halfway point, it'd have to be way too short.
- Rear set peg is folding, I keep it down when I kickstart to protect the brake lever.
- Fonzie used a kickstart, I use a kickstart. Plus the switch was toast when I got the bike and the starter motor was removed as part of my weight loss program.

LOL Yeah the Fonz was pretty cool but you did know he could barely ride a bike

Jarhead12 · « **Reply #38 on:** February 13, 2011, 11:31:53 AM »

so is it even worth it to put on rear sets or can i use clubmans with a stock brake and shift levers?

Roach · « **Reply #39 on:** February 13, 2011, 11:36:09 AM »

Quote from: Jarhead12 on February 13, 2011, 11:31:53 AM

so is it even worth it to put on rear sets or can i use clubmans with a stock brake and shift levers?

nothing wrong with doing that. i did it for a while.

only thing is with rearsets it leans you out over the tank more allowes you to have more ground clearance while turning sharp so your stock foot contoles dont hit the ground.

jaguar · « **Reply #40 on:** February 13, 2011, 03:22:52 PM »

Personally I find it very unconfortable to have a bike with low bars and stock pegs
Really I think it affects how well you can control the bike as well

wannabridin · « **Reply #41 on:** February 13, 2011, 06:07:16 PM »

i used to have clubmans and stock pegs. it was a cheap way to get the "look" but it made riding anymore than 30 minutes or so a bit uncomfortable. i think with my superbike bars and rearsets i'll have a comfortable yet sporty ride!!

scottly · « **Reply #42 on:** February 13, 2011, 06:54:51 PM »

With clubmans or clip-ons, if your foot pegs are too forward, it feels like your knees are stuffed into you armpits when you lay down on the tank!

wannabridin · « **Reply #43 on:** February 13, 2011, 06:55:27 PM »

Quote from: scottly on February 13, 2011, 06:54:51 PM

With clubmans or clip-ons, if your foot pegs are too forward, it feels like your knees are stuffed into you armpits when you lay down on the tank!

exactly the way i felt sometimes!!!

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #44 on:** February 13, 2011, 08:26:22 PM »

I found clubmans uncomfortable most of the time and have never used them since, super bike bars all the way....

Mick

martin426 · « **Reply #45 on:** February 14, 2011, 05:10:58 AM »

Good day

Adding to what has been offered up regarding the rearsets produced by Denis at CMR Racing... I have seen these bits up close and the functionality and workmanship is second to none.

My 550 and RCB1000 replica are in with Denis now, receiving various treatments which include fitting his rearsets. Folding pegs are not yet available, however solid street and race versions are. They are also a lot less "chunky" and more adjustable then Tarozzis.

Regards,
Scott

nomad · « **Reply #46 on:** February 14, 2011, 11:55:24 AM »

For a 750 K4, what rearsets are out there that don't use the rear the foot peg brackets as mounting points? I'll get them welded back on if need be, but would prefer not to. Thanks.

Roach · « **Reply #47 on:** February 14, 2011, 12:00:04 PM »

Quote from: nomad on February 14, 2011, 11:55:24 AM

For a 750 K4, what rearsets are out there that don't use the rear the foot peg brackets as mounting points? I'll get them welded back on if need be, but would prefer not to. Thanks.

raask uses the rear engine mount look back a few posts there is a pic that joehardy posted

nomad · « **Reply #48 on:** February 14, 2011, 12:08:35 PM »

Quote from: Roach on February 14, 2011, 12:00:04 PM

raask uses the rear engine mount look back a few posts there is a pic that joehardy posted

Quote from: joehardy on February 11, 2011, 07:31:56 PM

The shifter side only required a slight bend in the connector rod. The brake side required a bunch of mods to the lever arm. The splined part actually broke so I wound up using the stock brake arm which is much beefier. I cut off the pedal itself and welded the Raask arm to it. Also added tabs to allow adjustment of the break pedals static position. A bit of a pain but I am very happy with the setup now.

His laundry list of installation issues don't instill me with a lot of confidence in the Raask rearsets. If that's the only set out there, I guess I'll just get the rear brackets welded back on.

wannabridin · « **Reply #49 on:** February 14, 2011, 01:15:33 PM »

if you look at my pictures, the set i have on order uses two "bobbins" that you weld to the frame. that's all that is "disturbed". for me this is perfect, as i've already hacked off the passenger mounts for cleanliness and weight savings!

News:

Author Topic: Rearsets! (Read 10570 times)

nomad

nomad