Author Topic: 79 CB 650 refurb turns resto / mod (Read 53788 times)

thrutheframe · « **Reply #100 on:** October 18, 2011, 05:18:26 PM »

My tach seal,

caliper parts drying, just ignore that KZ 1000 headlight bucket in the background

caliper mount, I masked off all of the holes and the seats for the seals

the front wheel had to come off again, it'll be in the way of engine cleaning

throttle cable routing, I have two new ones, I'm not sure if it's going to work but I bought a set of CB 360 throttle cables, if they wont work I'll use them on my little twin.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #101 on:** October 24, 2011, 06:31:46 PM »

my stainless steel brake line, from Canadia eh

new banjo bolts and washers

both of my SOHC4 bikes in one room

fromt caliper, I reused the little plastic window, and bleeder valve.

caliper shaft dsut seals, these were back ordered everywhere I tried to get them, Westerm Hills Honda saves the day

I'm ready to put the wheel on for good once I do a little more engine cleaning.

I'm getting closer

thrutheframe · « **Reply #102 on:** October 30, 2011, 10:40:03 PM »

thrutheframe · « **Reply #103 on:** October 31, 2011, 07:38:24 PM »

I made a good bit of progress on the 650 in the last couple of days. My carbs are on and leak free... the tank is on and tight... my throttle cables are successfully shortened... my pod filters are on...the exhaust nuts and collars are all cleaned up... I think all I HAVE to do to test ride this bike is, change the oil (again just to be sure), install the exhaust and... ahem oh yeah, turn my master link clip around... oops. Edit.... Fixed that 2/26/12....

I decided to go with my my 120 jets to start and work down if I have trouble making it run right. I have 105 - 120 in steps of 5. Id love to push through and finish this up but I'm having my gall bladder removed in the morning. I shouldn't be out of commision too long but I probably SHOULD take it easy for a few days.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #104 on:** October 31, 2011, 07:42:34 PM »

scunny · « **Reply #105 on:** October 31, 2011, 10:46:02 PM »

120 will certainly put you in the ball park, that's what I'm running at the moment. you will probably find that without a way to adjust your needles there will be a transition problem from half to full throttle. 650's hate pods.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #106 on:** November 02, 2011, 05:10:47 PM »

thrutheframe · « **Reply #107 on:** November 03, 2011, 10:19:38 AM »

I really think today is the day I start this thing. Martin is coming in a bit to help me get her out of my shop and into the hall. Once she's out in the hall I have to replace the # 2&3 spark plugs (my 18mm deep well only works on 1&4, another 5.95 on an 18mm spark plug socket). I also have to mount the tank and the muffler and she's ready to fire.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #108 on:** November 03, 2011, 01:55:14 PM »

Oh yes, luckily I have the tool kit from on of my Honda's laying around or or plugs 2&3 would have been an issue. I got the bike runnin, I had a leak at the oil filter bolt but a tug on it with a wrench seems to have fixed that. At first it would idle, and take smooth slow throttle but not a snap of the throttle. That was with the air screws at 2 turns out, I turned them all the way in and came back out to 1&1/4. It responds pretty well now, sitting still. I'm hoping to take her out tomorrow morning and see if it actually runs under load.

scunny · « **Reply #109 on:** November 03, 2011, 01:58:05 PM »

glad you got her running, good luck on your maiden voyage.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #110 on:** November 03, 2011, 02:02:03 PM »

Quote from: scunny on November 03, 2011, 01:58:05 PM

glad you got her running, good luck on your maiden voyage.

Thank you Scunny, I appreciate you looking in on my project. Here's a bit of video. I have video of the first start but I have to get that from my buddy who shot it with his iPhone 4S.

IMG_3824.MOV

thrutheframe · « **Reply #111 on:** November 05, 2011, 09:44:05 AM »

I'm just waiting on some guys to help me get it down the ramp into the parking lot.

TwoBigCats · « **Reply #112 on:** November 05, 2011, 10:06:06 AM »

been watching this unfold ... looks great, looking forward to your ride report.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #113 on:** November 05, 2011, 03:43:51 PM »

Well where to start? Mixed results is the verdict for today.

The good:
Runs good
Pulls strong
Sounds great
Rolls straight
Handles great
Brakes well
Riding posture is sweet
Crankcases are oil tight except as noted below

The Bad:
Charging Mystery... Haven't run the diagnostics yet but I got about 8 miles away from home and it died about the time I stopped to check the air in my front tire. I was looking at the headlight think wow that's dim and it died... Nothing and I couldn't get it to bump start on a hill. A biker looking dude with a Daytona Bike Week shirt on helped me get her going, twice but it wouldn't take gas, (suspect not enough juice to make spark?) then he trucked my bike home across town. Gotta love it, no soldiers left stranded. I swapped batteries and she fired right up. I made the quick lap around Clifton twice without issues. I'm hoping that the battery was just bad, I may have gotten my good and bad batteries mixed up in the recent move. Regardless I'll go out in the morning and start fresh with my charging system diagnostics.

The Clutch: It feels great in regards to how the bike pulls, and the ease of engagement at take off but the lever is a bear to pull. Some more lube and a bit of adjustment maybe?

Top end oil leak. It looks like its coming from the cam cover. I think this is the same top end oil leak I mentioned earlier in my thread. I'm hoping a reseating will do it, there's no gasket there. Is that another deal where they glued it down with Honda bond?

Oil filter bolt leaks, I have the orings and a new seat coming.

Tong/Patang sound from the front when I hit a bump. Something is hitting the gas tank or fender. Bumps feel great, its smooth and new suspension stiff like the bike is brand new but that noise has to go.

Nice looking vintage seat is dry as toast and easy to slide on.

Trip odometer doesn't keep accurate count, the numbers drag against one another

Petcock.... I should have rebuilt it, it weeps if you press on it when you turn it and I suspect its a bit crusty inside. I've had two instances where it seemed like the bike wasn't getting gas.

I'm glad I've made it this far and I psyched to get this thing really dialed in so I can ride it without worrying about getting it trucked home from somewhere.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #114 on:** November 06, 2011, 01:37:38 PM »

I decided that the charging system is the most important thing to fix and Im starting there. I started by putting a fully charged battery in the bike. I metered it with the bike off 12.56 vdc. Key on, headlight on 12.35. Start bike, 12.16, rev to 2500 RPM 12.16, rev to 5000 RPM 12.12. I metered AC volts off of my alternator and got 0 volts. I pulled the stator and metered the rings... 2ohms.

I pulled the rotor, the bolt was easy just put a wrench on it, held the wrench flat in place with one hand and whacked it real fast with the rubber hammer. I figured the rotor would be a b#@^& but that was easy enough, I threaded a KZ1000 axle bolt in there and tapped it 6 times with the back side of my camping hatchet.

I ordered the new Accel rotor $160.00, the eBay seller is in Ohio so if they ship right away I'll get it Tuesday or Wednesday. Does anyone know how to test my stator? I might as well check that while I'm at it. Hopefully I can get the rotor here and this this charging before it gets too cold to ride.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #115 on:** November 06, 2011, 01:40:40 PM »

spreading the pics out to make sure they post

onepieceatatime · « **Reply #116 on:** November 06, 2011, 02:09:57 PM »

Rotor resistance should be 4-10 Ohms between sliprings, no contact to ground/rotor chassis.
Stator resistance should be 0.4-0.5 Ohms, symmetrical between each pair of yellow wires, no contact to ground/stator mounts.

There is a lot of good information specificly for CB650s here:
http://www.hondacb650.com/index.php

thrutheframe · « **Reply #117 on:** November 06, 2011, 02:47:00 PM »

Quote from: onepieceatatime on November 06, 2011, 02:09:57 PM

Rotor resistance should be 4-10 Ohms between sliprings, no contact to ground/rotor chassis.
Stator resistance should be 0.4-0.5 Ohms, symmetrical between each pair of yellow wires, no contact to ground/stator mounts.

There is a lot of good information specificly for CB650s here:
http://www.hondacb650.com/index.php

Thanks onepiece. I knew the rotor spec but not the stator spec. I'll check it tomorrow.

I went out and turned the football game on in the car and backed it up to the bike and relubed then rerouted my clutch cable. That solved the hard to pull issue, now it feels like a clutch lever.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #118 on:** November 07, 2011, 10:14:40 AM »

The stator meters .7 ohms across all three wires. Do I need to replace it? I sure hope not, the rotor is about the last bit of cas I can afford to spend on this bike.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #119 on:** November 07, 2011, 11:49:10 AM »

So I'm riding it on the battery for now. Just short distances around Clifton to work out the bugs. I had just the tiniest dead spot at throttle crack and another little dead spot around 4800 so I assumed it was getting too much air. My initial air mixture screw setting was out 1-1/4, I came in 1/2 turn which brings me to out 3/4. The throttle is more linear now, at least in the range I've used it.

onepieceatatime · « **Reply #120 on:** November 07, 2011, 03:42:27 PM »

Quote from: thrutheframe on November 07, 2011, 10:14:40 AM

The stator meters .7 ohms across all three wires. Do I need to replace it? I sure hope not, the rotor is about the last bit of cas I can afford to spend on this bike.

Is it a high quality meter, or a $25 cheap one?
What does the meter read with just the leads shorted together? If it reads .2 or .3 ohms, your stator should be ok.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #121 on:** November 07, 2011, 04:40:53 PM »

Quote from: onepieceatatime on November 07, 2011, 03:42:27 PM

Quote from: thrutheframe on November 07, 2011, 10:14:40 AM
The stator meters .7 ohms across all three wires. Do I need to replace it? I sure hope not, the rotor is about the last bit of cas I can afford to spend on this bike.

Is it a high quality meter, or a $25 cheap one?
What does the meter read with just the leads shorted together? If it reads .2 or .3 ohms, your stator should be ok.

Indeed the meter read .3 ohms with the leads shorted together. Thanks for your help Onepiece.

I worked on my top end oil leak tonight. It was leaking dead center of the cam cover in the front. I pulled the breather cover and tightened both of the bolts under there in the front. They both made a nice crack when I turned them to the right. I got a good look at the cam in the daylight and that all looks pretty sweet. I put a new seal on the breather cover while I had it off.

Once I put it all back together I rode it around the block then let it run at idle for 5 plus minutes. No oil leaked out on that short run so hopefully I got that sorted.

Here's some pics, nothing too glamorous. You can see the oil leak in one but it was too dark for a "dry" shot after the test run.

cb650 · « **Reply #122 on:** November 08, 2011, 01:25:44 AM »

Where did u get the brake line? how much was it?

thrutheframe · « **Reply #123 on:** November 08, 2011, 04:06:45 AM »

Quote from: cb650 on November 08, 2011, 01:25:44 AM

Where did u get the brake line? how much was it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120793505786?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I think mine was $21.99 I think

thrutheframe · « **Reply #124 on:** November 09, 2011, 09:56:09 AM »

Still no charging system. My rotor came in yesterday I metered it (5ohms) and put it on. I knew in my heart that it wasn't good to go because I didn't replace the recky/reg... I priced it a few times and didnt buy it, I kept putting it off until I had the bike ready to start... doh. In restrospect I should have bought the rotor, and recky/reg when I was making a bunch of money last winter. I guess I missed the ridng season on this one. I have to put her away later today, I'm going to San Antonio tomorrow for 8 days. I am going to buy the part when I get home and put it on, just to make sure I'm ready if I get a warm day.

My top end oil leak isnt fixed either. It seems like its coming from up inside the fins on the inboard side of cylinder 2.

News:

Author Topic: 79 CB 650 refurb turns resto / mod (Read 53788 times)