Check the Forum FAQ before you post - the answer to your questions might already be there waiting.
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Great look front to back, nice lines and nice products you picked out. I have the M-lock for my 550 project and it makes for a clean look. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
When it comes to engine upgrades, you will need to have 2 things in mind: 1) budget and 2) the extent of performance gain you want to gain. Then balance those two. It appears that you are not adverse to spending some money so it will come down to how much "go" you want to buy. Best big bore performance: Wiseco or Dynoman high compression kit; Mike Rieck stage 3 or 4 pit job with Kibblewhite oversize valves; 650 cam or Megacycle 126-20 cam; back-cut transmission; heavy duty cylinder studs; new primary and cam chains, cam chain guide and tensioner; CR26 carburetors; MotoGP 4-1 stainless exhaust.
For a great performing motor that is super street able, I'd check out Flatlander's 550 thread. My 500 motor is a bit more over the top, and not yet running, but I'm suspecting it's less "daily rider" and more "weekend adventurer".As for the MotoScope, I was referring to "ditching" the stock wired plugs and connectors and reassembling them into smaller Molex connectors for the configuration of wires you actually use, not restrict yourself to how MotoG has them sorted.My son wants the same gauge for his 500, but I'm not sold on it yet. The shape is spectacular, but it's an awfully lot of red LEDs on the face Using MotoG switches and components with clip ons, I've wired and routed things in this way:
That MotoScope might be a little difficult to read in bright sunlight, but it does look nifty. I opted for the Chronoclassic Dark. Screw it and get a Motec!
We tinkered with a few ideas on how to integrate the MotoScope into the top clamp. Used a scaled version 3D printed for ideas..I would not be concerned about daylight visibility of the unit, I'm sure the good folks at MotoG thought about that
I don't think we are pursuing this route. It would be fairly difficult to mill and account for the underside fastener passing through the clamp, then screwing into the backside of the gauge, all with M3 screws. And, a slanted pocket, and, and, and... Cool idea, but I don't think it would execute well-
Started to think about color schemes for the bike and I did a quick rendering of what I'm going for. I really like the stealth look and I think it suits the name of the bike. I've also cleaned up the Lester mags and thinking about lightening them a little and doing something similar to this. I'm also contemplating whether to keep them raw with polished edges or black? If I do decide to go with black, I'll need to decide whether to PC or paint them.
Quote from: jdizon on September 09, 2015, 01:16:55 PMStarted to think about color schemes for the bike and I did a quick rendering of what I'm going for. I really like the stealth look and I think it suits the name of the bike. I've also cleaned up the Lester mags and thinking about lightening them a little and doing something similar to this. I'm also contemplating whether to keep them raw with polished edges or black? If I do decide to go with black, I'll need to decide whether to PC or paint them.jdizon,I admit I like the look of your hollowed out Lesters, I do not put enough faith in 70s (40 year old) casting technology -- that the wheels will retain enough structural integrity for road use with the strongest part of the spoke removed. Have you x-ray'd the wheels to rule out cracks and inclusions?? I think it would be fine if this is just a show piece, but speaking for myself I wouldn't want to ride it hard.
Engrave the VIN on the new frame and/or transfer the VIN plate, boom, registration matches bike.
