Author Topic: Drilling Rotors (Read 68179 times)

jtb · « **Reply #250 on:** August 24, 2008, 07:58:38 AM »

Terry, after all this time... I still like the paint job on that tank.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #251 on:** August 24, 2008, 02:15:43 PM »

Me too John, I bought that tank off one of the guys here, (Chris in Boston?) it was painted by a guy called Wojowyzc in 1974 (he signed it) and ol' Wojo knew his stuff. Sadly it was starting to crack up a tad, so I lightly rubbed out the old clear and hit it with a coat of 2K epoxy clear, and hopefully I'll still be bragging about it in another 30 years time, ha ha!

kghost · « **Reply #252 on:** August 24, 2008, 02:18:12 PM »

If not the tank...you'll be bragging bout something...

eldar · « **Reply #253 on:** August 24, 2008, 02:19:20 PM »

The problem with cracking is usually caused by too many holes or too big of holes too close together.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #254 on:** August 24, 2008, 04:10:43 PM »

Quote from: eldar, Master of the K8 Thunder! on August 24, 2008, 02:19:20 PM

The problem with cracking is usually caused by too many holes or too big of holes too close together.

I knew a girl like that once Eldy, she had a hell of a crack. Now after reading your post, I understand why...........

Quote from: kghost on August 24, 2008, 02:18:12 PM

If not the tank...you'll be bragging bout something...

Ha ha, well it takes one to know one, Mister "I don't read the news, I make the news".................. Remember that?

kghost · « **Reply #255 on:** August 24, 2008, 04:12:28 PM »

Quote from: Terry in Australia on August 24, 2008, 04:10:43 PM

Quote from: eldar, Master of the K8 Thunder! on August 24, 2008, 02:19:20 PM
The problem with cracking is usually caused by too many holes or too big of holes too close together.

I knew a girl like that once Eldy, she had a hell of a crack. Now after reading your post, I understand why...........

Quote from: kghost on August 24, 2008, 02:18:12 PM
If not the tank...you'll be bragging bout something...

Ha ha, well it takes one to know one, Mister "I don't read the news, I make the news".................. Remember that?

I don't watch the news either......

But at least ya figured out I was literate.

mrbreeze · « **Reply #256 on:** August 24, 2008, 04:20:36 PM »

Well....if you could find him......El Cheapo used to whip out a rotor in like 15 minutes...dirt cheap too!!!

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #257 on:** August 24, 2008, 10:09:59 PM »

Quote from: mrbreeze on August 24, 2008, 04:20:36 PM

Well....if you could find him......El Cheapo used to whip out a rotor in like 15 minutes...dirt cheap too!!!

And he had a magic surface grinder, that only he could see.................

Quote from: kghost on August 24, 2008, 04:12:28 PM

I don't watch the news either......

But at least ya figured out I was literate.

Hey! Just WHO are you calling illiterate? I was born a whole WEEK after Maw and Paw got hitched!

eldar · « **Reply #258 on:** August 25, 2008, 06:12:44 AM »

I never heard of any reports of Tom's rotors being crappy. But if I remember correctly, on his website is says he is not doing them at this time.

silver fox · « **Reply #259 on:** October 13, 2008, 01:25:48 PM »

As it says in the title, does anyone have a scale pattern they would send to me

I have just changed jobs, and got some very nice metalsmith work mates who will do anything for a case of beer

, in reason

Regards
Steve
ps I've just got my spare frame into WBO Racing to have an ally tank made. He says it should be ready by the end of the month

Can't wait

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #260 on:** December 23, 2008, 03:25:49 PM »

Oooher, hand made alloy tank? Post a pic mate, ok? Cheers, Terry.

ev0lve · « **Reply #261 on:** December 23, 2008, 04:51:24 PM »

Quote from: Terry in Australia on August 24, 2008, 03:09:51 AM

I did my own, but it was a shiite of a job, even using cobalt drill bits at super slow speed I destroyed two drill bits and had to sharpen them every couple of holes, so I'd be happy to pay 60 bucks a disc for a good job. Cheers, Terry.

Ahhhh, so that was my problem! I tried on a borrowed press and (asides from position wandering) spinning at an unknown rate (fast I think) I figured I'd go through about 4 to 6 bits per disc. At $10 a piece seems hardly worth it at this point.

BTW, El Cheapo (Tom) just got through drilling my discs and popped em in the mail so he's definitely in business. I'm too new to the boards to know anything about anything more than 6 months ago but it was cheap and a pleasure.

crazypj · « **Reply #262 on:** December 23, 2008, 07:05:21 PM »

I havent had any problems drilling discs.
Just center punch all the positions, drill 1/8" pilot holes then go around again with 5/16" or 3/8" My drill press doesn't go any slower than 200 rpm but I drilled168 holes with only two sharpening's (one after 3 holes at a higher speed, 450rpm) on a HSS drill bit. I found it's a lot faster to go slower.
PJ

HondaMan · « **Reply #263 on:** December 25, 2008, 10:00:20 AM »

Quote from: Terry in Australia on August 24, 2008, 02:15:43 PM

Me too John, I bought that tank off one of the guys here, (Chris in Boston?) it was painted by a guy called Wojowyzc in 1974 (he signed it) and ol' Wojo knew his stuff. Sadly it was starting to crack up a tad, so I lightly rubbed out the old clear and hit it with a coat of 2K epoxy clear, and hopefully I'll still be bragging about it in another 30 years time, ha ha!

Holy smokes!

I remember Wojowyzc, at least by his named paint. He had some work that showed up on some CB750K bikes and Sportsters in the Chicago (Elmhurst) area when I was working at Spring Honda there, and again in Peoria on some Blue Streaks and other CB750K bikes. Beautiful, high-dollar work, it was. There was also a gathering of riders at Sturgis (one had a car) with Wojo's work on them, in 1972, IIRC.

I wonder if he's still alive?

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #264 on:** December 25, 2008, 03:39:22 PM »

Hey that's great to know Mark, I did do a google search on him a while ago, but found nothing. As you said, beautiful work, he was certainly very good at what he did.

I love that tank because it's a real "blast from the past", and it'll stay "as is" as long as my arse points at the ground, ha ha! Cheers, Terry.

scunny · « **Reply #265 on:** December 25, 2008, 06:59:32 PM »

"as long as my arse points at the ground, ha ha! Cheers, Terry."

in true christmas spirit I shall leave a sarcastic remark unsaid

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #266 on:** December 26, 2008, 04:03:06 AM »

That's very generous of you Scunny, all the best for the season mate, and I hope you got what you wanted for Christmas! (unless it was sex with your sister again, that's just wrong!)

HondaMan · « **Reply #267 on:** January 30, 2009, 08:00:19 PM »

Quote from: scunny on December 25, 2008, 06:59:32 PM

"as long as my arse points at the ground, ha ha! Cheers, Terry."

in true christmas spirit I shall leave a sarcastic remark unsaid

Boy, Scunny, your avatar sure brings back memories....

UnCrash · « **Reply #268 on:** March 29, 2009, 08:27:54 PM »

It's probably been covered many times before but after searching for the last half hour I come up with so many different opinions that I'm confused.

I drilled out my K6 rotor tonight.

The edges of the holes are puckered slightly above and below. I've read differing opinions on whether to chamfer the holes or not. I can't imagine why it would be good for the brake pads to leave the holes as they are...

I have a chamfer drill bit should I remove enough material with this 45 degree bevel bit to leave a smooth surface? That seems logical to me, but would love some expert opinion.

Thanks!

nokrome · « **Reply #269 on:** March 30, 2009, 07:42:34 PM »

there is a difference between countersinking and de-burring, you definitely want to de-burr those holes.....
as for countersinking if you ask ten different people you will get ten different opinions, i chose to countersink mine because countersunk holes are less likely to crack and because imo it just looks better.
a good way to de-burr your disk would be to go over it with 80 grit sand paper on a DA sander, just make sure you keep the sander moving so you dont create an uneven spot, this will also de-glaze your disk if it needs it.

UnCrash · « **Reply #270 on:** March 31, 2009, 04:53:55 AM »

Thanks nokrome, just the info I needed.

A Grove · « **Reply #271 on:** March 31, 2009, 06:42:47 AM »

I'll be honest, read the first page and skipped right to the last... but has anyone had any problems with their rotors pulling/warping under the heat caused by drilling? Obviously, cutting fluid, etc must be used. Just wasn't sure how people faired when all said and done

UnCrash · « **Reply #272 on:** March 31, 2009, 06:49:43 AM »

Quote

but has anyone had any problems with their rotors pulling/warping under the heat caused by drilling?

I can tell you that when drilling my rotor it never got too hot to touch. I used dish washing liquid (thanks for that tip Terry!) for cooling/lubrication.

I'm sure the rotors get hotter with hard braking action than with drilling if you're doing it right.

A Grove · « **Reply #273 on:** March 31, 2009, 07:42:45 AM »

Right-on. My Dad wont let me drill them "wrong" or incorrectly, and with his wealth of machining knowledge I'm sure they'll turn out just fine. Just wanted to ask. Good point about them getting hotter under braking than drilling... wasn't thinking about that aspect.

Dave-and-his-550 · « **Reply #274 on:** June 22, 2009, 09:44:58 PM »

Wow. Read about 17-18 of these pages. Decided do have Anubis to my rotor. Wish he was still charging $20 though. His website says $40 now

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Author Topic: Drilling Rotors (Read 68179 times)

eldar

eldar