Author Topic: Documenting my factory one K1 restore  (Read 32524 times)

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Offline zzpete

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #75 on: July 16, 2010, 03:44:43 pm »
Made these finally and I'm gonna pop em on for a bit. Any objections?
Man those are nice! Whats your secret to making those gauge faces!
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Offline mycb750k6

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #76 on: July 16, 2010, 04:42:58 pm »
Patience I guess. Take your time and they come out nice. Especially on the holes and cutouts. Otherwise they look like crap. I've practiced on a few dozen  so have gotten better at it. Need something? or an explanation of the process?

Offline zzpete

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #77 on: July 16, 2010, 05:59:41 pm »
Patience I guess. Take your time and they come out nice. Especially on the holes and cutouts. Otherwise they look like crap. I've practiced on a few dozen  so have gotten better at it. Need something? or an explanation of the process?
I would like an explanation of the process. Do you make them up on the computer?
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Offline mycb750k6

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #78 on: July 17, 2010, 07:49:24 am »
zzpete,
OK briefly:
I use two compute programs. First CorelDraw to make the vector drawings. It has layers and lots of fonts and gives a sharp, crisp lines and numbers and had lots of colors. Since I've been doing this a while I have a few that I just use as  templates and change for the next set minimizing the amount of work. See example below. So I've made K0, various K1s, K2, K5 and K6 plus some cafe type with some flags and crap.

Next I export the CorelDraw drawing as a jpg file and import it into Photo Paint. Then I size it for a 4X6 print and upload it to Costco photo finishing and usually order a dozen satin prints at 17 cents ea and have them delivered. The nice thing about Costco prints is they don't fade like what you might print on your inkjet printer

When I get the prints, I cover them with a layer of clear satin film to give them the matt look and protect the photo during assembly.

Then I cut them out and glue them onto to a plate using 5 minute epoxy really thin and weight it down.

Then the fun part with a really sharp XActo, I cut out all the slots and holes. I used to print the location of the slots and holes on the prints but that turned out to be a waste of time.

Since the photo I printed is on white photo paper, the white will show through the cuts and holes and will have to be touched up with a marker of the correct color when finished.

That's it. It's takes a few tries and throwaways but isn't bad once you've practiced a bit. I've seen peoples work where the holes look like crap and I've seen them where they look good. That's where the patience comes into play and having a dozen or so prints you can throw away if you mess up.

Putting the face into the gauge is covered here in multiple places including this thread.

Is that enough of a process?

I know some folks know printers and can get mylar film printed and I wish I could too but whenever I ask that person, I don't get a response.

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #79 on: July 17, 2010, 08:12:43 am »
Thanks for taking the time to explain. :)

~Joe

Offline mycb750k6

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #80 on: July 17, 2010, 09:47:15 am »
I forgot to mention that normally I will use the K0 or K1 jewels that came with the original gauge but sometimes they're too screwed up to use. So I machine sequin jewels on the lathe so they just pop through the surface of the plate. I actually prefer these. For example I made the neutral indicator on the tach a light blue on this set instead of green just for kicks but you can't see it in the picture.

Offline Johnie

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #81 on: July 17, 2010, 10:00:10 am »
That is excellent Myles that you can do that. You are very talented. Heck, when I did my KO in 2007 I had to buy a set from Yamiya for $150. They cost even more now. Very nice job there.
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1970 Chevy Chevelle SS396 - Cortez Silver
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Offline zzpete

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #82 on: July 17, 2010, 05:07:55 pm »
 ;D Sounds like I've done something like this before. I worked in printing (prepress) since 1974 until December of last year. When I started we were still using some cold type. Then we went to film. Then all digital. Your probably not going find too many people using film any more. I haven't touched it in 15 years +. I might try using the programs I have (Photoshop and Illustrator). I'll definitely use Costco! I will also use the clear layer satin film.  After I make a good stock one maybe I'll make some with naked ladies on them or my avatar or something different. As far as machining sequin jewels I'l cross that bridge when I get to it. THANK-YOU for the thorough explanation I'm going to give it a shot this fall! I owe you one!! ;D ;D ;D
"One of the things that make motorcycling so great because it never fails to give you a feeling of freedom and adventure." - Steve McQueen

Offline mycb750k6

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #83 on: July 18, 2010, 10:12:34 am »
Front wheel

Offline HedNut

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #84 on: July 21, 2010, 06:12:44 am »
WOW!...that wheel is absolutely beautiful...so clean...perfect!  And those gauges you do! Excellent attention to detail and super smart way of going about it!! Cheers to you!!  WOW...again.....wow.....:o
The little yellow faces are better than me at displaying my emotional expressions....haha   Good STUFF HERE!!

Offline mycb750k6

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #85 on: July 28, 2010, 11:08:14 am »
I repaired the broken 71 plastic chain guard on this guy with the help of Ichiban 4 in the plastic painting thread http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=74195.msg830290#new.  And I wanted to document it here. So this nylon, plastic stuff they used back then can be repaired and painted. Who knew?

Offline zzpete

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #86 on: July 28, 2010, 01:01:17 pm »
 ;D NICE!!!!
"One of the things that make motorcycling so great because it never fails to give you a feeling of freedom and adventure." - Steve McQueen

Offline Johnie

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #87 on: July 28, 2010, 03:20:25 pm »
Tell me about the paint prep and paint you used. Awful greasy area and want to be sure it sticks good.
1970 CB750K0 - Candy Ruby Red
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1970 Chevy Chevelle SS396 - Cortez Silver
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Offline mycb750k6

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #88 on: July 28, 2010, 05:17:23 pm »
It's kinda laid out in this thread I referred to. http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=74195.msg830290#new Ichi did a nice job of describing what to do. But as far as prep went, I first used simple green to clean it and then wiped it down with acetone. Acetone is my favorite solvent. Then I got a pail of warm water and 600 wet-dry paper and went over every place. Some areas had gouges that needed 320 but I went over those with 600 afterward. The trick is to keep everything really wet when sanding. When I could I'd actually sand in the water. So when you're done you have a really smooth but dull finish. And it's clean since you've been working in water. The paint is KRYLON "Fusion Superbond paint" for plastics in gloss black. You paint like you would anything else from a can. I put in on in three coats with the third being kinda heavy so it would be smooth. Like I said, read what Ichi said about it. I'll let you know how it holds up.

Offline Johnie

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #89 on: July 28, 2010, 06:40:07 pm »
Will check that thread...thanks.
1970 CB750K0 - Candy Ruby Red
1973 CB750K3 - Candy Bacchus Olive or Sunflake Orange
1970 Chevy Chevelle SS396 - Cortez Silver
1976 GL1000 Sulphur Yellow

Oshkosh, WI  USA

Offline greasy j

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #90 on: July 30, 2010, 11:55:08 am »
lookin nice!

i like it how you say 'some of the cafe type with flags and crap' when talking about gauge faces. I feel the same. quite sick of the checked flag at this point. but I'm pretty anti-cliche in general.

I thought my bike was from the 1st factory, also. but now I'm not so sure. some things don't add up. but anyways, mine is not a resto. or cafe or anything else, just a personalized 2 wheeled fun machine.

but I want to do a real restoration on one some day just to have an original of my fave bike.

keep up the awesomeness. (kid talk for good work)

Offline scroggins5000

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #91 on: July 30, 2010, 02:38:30 pm »
Regarding gauge faces: Most places that can print direct on vinyl can probably cut them to whatever shape you want on a plotter. It would cost more than printing it yourself of course, but it would last forever and can be done with adhesive backing. Vector files made in Corel or Illustrator are the best way to go. Check around with local sign/ sticker printing shops for the best pricing. They're all different.

Offline mycb750k6

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #92 on: July 30, 2010, 04:05:15 pm »
Yeah but it's hard to beat 19 cents a piece at Costco. And they appear to be holding up well in the sun. I think the printing shops would charge more. But if you can get my CAD files printed at a sign shop, that would be nice. PM me!  I'm all for it. Also I tried the sticky back faces when I was first experimenting with Photo-shop and the ink-jet printer and I found it very difficult to get the thing on there strait the first time - frustrating. And most of the time I'd end up with bubbles I'd have to pin prick. I tried decals too and that was a disaster.  I like the thick photo print approach you have to glue on. So that's that, settled.

BTW, I stumbled across these gauge plates just like Yamiya's at a fraction of the cost from Italy if you don't mind km/h. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360271032916&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT I think I might try them. They said they would ship to me.

Offline jaguar

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #93 on: August 01, 2010, 08:47:01 am »
my buddy has a sign shop...
i could use faces for my K1 and my cb350F.....


Offline jaguar

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #94 on: August 02, 2010, 11:44:36 am »
also where did you get the paint for the tank?

Offline mycb750k6

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #95 on: August 02, 2010, 12:05:11 pm »
The painting was done buy the guy on ebay who paints the CB750K sets.

Offline HondaNorway

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #96 on: August 02, 2010, 12:56:05 pm »
So I had to rebuild the caliper as well as the master cylinder because it was full of brown grime.
I definitely need to anodize the switch housings. Sure wish I could find a kill switch. I tried painting old ones and they look like crap.

Hi mycb750k6. Stunning results on the polish job  ;D. What do you use? Hard wax bar's?
Btw, great bike.  :o

-Stian
« Last Edit: August 02, 2010, 01:02:45 pm by HondaNorway »
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Offline mycb750k6

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #97 on: August 02, 2010, 03:28:15 pm »
Hard wax bar's? What are Hard wax bar's? I don't get it.

Offline HondaNorway

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Offline mycb750k6

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Re: Documenting my factory one K1 restore
« Reply #99 on: August 03, 2010, 06:53:49 am »
Oh I get it. Yes we call it buffing and polishing compound in the US of A especially the white for aluminum and soft metals. It's pretty easy to do but tough to do well and I will say mine is never as good as the professional polishers in my opinion - but it's free. I'm seriously considering chroming the aluminum covers which would be a real retro look. (Boos and hisses to follow!!)